Mike Y

I wanted to show you guys a glimpse into the world of designing a kit.   Especially one as complex as a fully framed project like the Speedwell.  Its why I get so passionate about other folks just copying plans developed like this.   It takes hours and hours to design each element.  This forward cant frame jig is no exception.   Its not like it ever gets done on the first try.   
 
This jig and all of the parts needed for Speedwell up to this point require a level of precision above and beyond a typical POB kit.  I actually had to make about nine forward cant frame jigs before I was fully satisfied.  Each iteration was tweaked just slightly and  laser cut.  It was tested and measurements taken from all angles.....then adjustments were marked and redrafted....and repeated.
 
Here are some of the discarded jigs.  All of them would have worked.  But the last one worked best.   
 
Things should progress quickly now until it comes time to make the aft cant frame jig.   Using a copy of the plans helps identify issues as well.   Here you can see the working plan cut and in position and how it matches up pretty darn close to all the framing.   Once drawn,  you have to tweak the parts to account for the laser kerf and sanding of char etc.   
 

Took a break from restocking inventory to work on the model.
 
Forward cant frames....
 
The jig is first.  BUT before you do anything, make sure the hull is positioned correctly on your build board.   Line up the forward face of the last square frame with the corresponding lines on your baseboard.  Slide it forward or aft if needed because you will be lining up the cant frame jig with your baseboard plan.
 
Take the laser cut square shown below and glue it to the underside of the last square frame cross piece. The laser etched guide on the square should help you with positioning it.
 

It will look like this. The fore cant frame jig is resting on top which will be added next.
 

Place the cant frame jig in position.   The "puzzle piece" connection was left a little loose on purpose to give you some room to adjust it.   Not a lot...its not a sloppy fit.  But there is just enough room to adjust it side to side based on what we will do next.
 

This next step is super important....
 
Use your square to check that the notches in the top of the jig match the cant frames as drawn on the baseboard.   The machine square I have actually fits right into the slots making this pretty easy.   I got these from MicroMark.   They are pretty common and if you have one this works perfectly.  There is also a laser etched line down the center of the jig to help with alignment.
 
The forward edge of each slot....should line up with the aft edge of the cant frames as drawn on the baseboard.  This is important.   Its worth mentioning it again.  The forward edge of each slot....should line up with the aft edge of the cant frames as drawn on the baseboard.  See below.  Check this on both sides of the hull obviously.  Try and get it as close as you can.   
 
Then tape the cant frame jig to the first square frame cross piece.   Remember,  there is some wiggle room so you can adjust as needed to get your slots lining up as close as possible.  But dont be upset if they are off by a hair.   Just get them as close as you can.  
 

Next up,  and you will do this for every cant frame....take the two strips laser cut and marked "1", and glue them into the forward slots.  Make sure the numbers face forward.  Slide them all the way into the slots.  This is also important.  The top of these strips should be flush with the top of the jig.
 
Note the laser etched line on the forward side.   This line references the outboard edge of each cant frame.    We are starting with the most forward pair for a few reasons.  The most important being to help firm up the cant frame jig at the correct height and "lock" it into position.   Every cant frame after this first pair will also have a corresponding numbered strip.   You will be progressing aft with one cant frame pair at a time.  Just like this.

You can see below how this jig will work.   I have placed the square against the strip.  Note how it rests against the forward edge of the strip and at the same time...The bottom of the square shows it lining up with the cant frame drawing on the baseboard.   The angles match.  We are talking about the aft edge of the cant frame.   The cant frames will all sit against the forward edge of those numbered strips.
 

Below you can see the forward pair of cant frames glued into position.  I of course sanded the char off the edges first.  But dont sand the heel of the cant frame.   Only remove the char from the inboard and outboard edges.  These frames are cut to length with tight tolerances so dont sand the heel end that gets glued to the angled wedge on the apron.
 
Note how the outside edge of the cant frame lines up with that laser etched reference line that was on the numbered strip.  Also note that the top of the cant frame is flush with the top of the numbered strip.  This first cant frame is important because it locks the jig in at the correct height as well and stiffens it all up.

One down and ten to go.   Repeat this process working aft with the remaining cant frames.   Remember to just work on one cant frame pair at a time.   Some of these forward cant frames are made in two pieces with a simulated chock like the frames.  We shall discuss this when I get that far.
 
Next up will be cant frame "2".   You can see the numbered strips sitting on top ready to go.  But now that the jig is in position its pretty easy and should go quickly.   No need to sand the bevels into the heels of each cant frame.   All you really have to do with each cant frame is sand off most of the laser char on the inboard and outboard edges and glue it into position.  The apron has all the correct angles in for each cant frame already.

 
Let me know if you have any questions.
 

Lengthy work on the cannon carriages:

Hi Gary to which NMM plans are you refering.

Finally finished all of the square frames.  That was a good day and a milestone.   I have faired the outside of the hull pretty good but stopped short of the outmost frames because I didnt want to over fair.  Those will be done as I work on the cant frames next.   The forwards cant frames are next.  I also did some preliminary fairing inboard where I could reach.   Just a little to make my life easier when the time comes to do that later.   
 

I basically just repeated the instructions I already mentioned until all the square frames were completed.   It is really important to check the heights and positions of the sweep ports and gun ports as you progress.   I have provided the laser cut parts to simplify that and yes you can measure up from the baseboard to check their heights.   But I was also using a template I created.   I just havent showed it before in my previous updates.   This will be provided on the plans.  This in combination with those other means of measurement will really help ensure that your ports all end up where they are supposed to.   The top of the template aligns with the sheer.   The bottom of the template actually aligns with the top edge of the wales.  The heights are most important for the ports and dont go nuts if your openings are a 1/64" to the left or right.   It will all work out in the end.   You can always fix slight issues before you start planking if you have to do some shifting.  But I highly recommend that you use this template from the start of your framing to check the port positions as you progress.   If you do this before you glue the actual sweep port fillers into position permanently (and the gun port sills),  you can adjust them at that time to ensure the opening are in the correct spots.   Then after you get a match glue them in permanently.  Using the template is really the key to successfully and easily taking the guess-work out of positioning the ports.
 
With any POF project there is a lot going on and a lot of parts.  It is inevitable that some frames may not end up where you want them exactly.   Thats OK and certainly it happened to me.  You may get a slight bend in your frame etc.   Your wood thickness might be a little over or under with your frames.   Maybe a frame isnt perfectly perpendicular to the keel after it settles once glued in.  Creep can be an issue after 20 frames etc.   But regardless of where you frames end up you can easily manipulate the sweep port fillers and sills using the template to get them exactly where you want them.   As you can see the framing looks perfect to the naked eye but I can assure you they are not...the template is your salvation!!!
 



The hull is really shaping up after doing some fairing.   I hope you guys and start to see the shape in the photos I have taken.
 
I will take a few days to a week to get organized before I start on the forward cant frames.   I want to prepare the parts files for final laser cutting up to this point.   What you see in these pictures should constitute the starter package or chapter one.   It will cost more than a typical chapter because there is so much wood and so many parts.   But it makes for a nice start.  I will also prepare all of the carvings for casting before I start on the cant frames so it may be a while before my next update....A couple of weeks maybe.   Any questions or comments are welcomed.  Chapter 2 begins really soon!!!
 

Back on it after an airplane building break. I milled the frame bottoms and finished them by hand. Have to figure out the rising frames now. 

Rough cut the frames. Ended up
making a new No20 as it just didn’t make it. 
mill get the keel assy. going further now. 

After first sanding of the outside I’ve cut the boat off it’s build plank to sand the inside. Surprised to weigh in at only 200 grams! The planks are only 2 mm thick (before sanding!) and the sun shows how thin it is!!
I connected the tops of all frames with two more sets of planks - looks OK and strong.
 
Plan is to use filler, epoxy and glasfabric for strengthening - not sure yet of the order!
 

This winter I’m working on a “grandfather” repair and renewal project.
 
My grandfather was shipbuilding engineer, and was drafted in WW1, spending the war in neutral Netherlands on one of the fortresses of the defence of Amsterdam. That’s where my last project came from. 
From the 1920s until the end of WW2 he worked in Dutch East Indies (Indonesia) for a shipping company. In 1947 after repatriation to Netherlands he filed a patent on a method to launch a lifeboat from a davit through a clever use of a pivot. Two crewmembers each rotated a handle over 180 degrees, which swings out the lifeboat, descending slightly under its own weight. Then lines are slipped to defend it to the sea.

 
To help him sell the patent, he had a demo model built, published an article in a trade journal, and even made a “cartoon movie” from a set of cards to show the operation. I think about a dozen ships were equipped with the system.


 
The demo model survived the past 75 years or so, but was in somewhat of a state when I received it from a cousin before Xmas. The boat is solid. Just needed a paintjob but is unsuitable for radio control.
 
My plan has three phases
- repair the model
- build a RC controlled new lifeboat to be launched from it
- possibly make the Davit RC as well
 
the repair was fairly straight forward, involved re-soldering the brass and copper past, new paint job and polishing up the blocks and brass parts.

in the last photo, the solid wood boat is half painted, I decided to make a new boat using “plank on frames”. The new boat will be slightly shorter with room for a rudder, and will have a prop obviously.
 
To obtain a plan of the frames, I marked out frames on the keel of the boat model, and used a home made measuring device to measure out the shape of each frame. 

from that I drew the frames on a 7mm pine plank, and the keel on another one (slightly shorter and with opening for the prop).

also the planks themselves were sawed from pinewood, and I’ve just started mounting the frames and keel on a build plank for planking.  TBC…

Hi continue construction HMS Anson.

Some progress
 
The taffrail capping pieces on both sides were completed and then I started work on the Quarter Piece blanks - fitting to the hull shape takes time - the extra meat left on these is for the relief carvings that will be added to them - the one you see in the picture is the 4th test piece and I’m sure there will be more!
 
 

With the arrival of the cladding at last it's time to assemble this large 'flat pack' kit......

The height of the side walls was determined from the standard length of the cladding - 3.6 M. Cut in half and fitted vertically there was no waste. Two panels were clamped together and the run of cladding strips screwed on until the first two lengths were fixed to the second panel. At this point the panels were separated and the finished section lifted and screwed in position.


Confession time.... my original plan was to clad each panel flat on the floor and then lift it and slide it into position. Maybe 30 years ago I could have succeeded ...... managed the first one, just! So a rethink led to the panels being covered in a more vertical position.

The plan worked and each section snapped nicely into place
 

Galvanized 3 x 30 mm straps set into recesses routed into the top of the sections bridging the joints stiffened the structure further.
The cladding on the end panels runs horizontally. On the far end the four 20 dia. x 100 mm coach bolts that secure the porthole had to be added first. This meant temporarily fitting the porthole. 

Careful trimming with a jigsaw followed by a large drum sander completed the shaping of this feature.

After this picture was taken the fence panel was dragged back into place and secured for the final time.
Cladding the near end panel will wait until the door has been fitted. This is due to arrive at the middle of next month. For now this end has been left with the vapour barrier for protection.

Spent the afternoon clearing up the site and a quick trip to the local recycling centre to dispose of a car full of offcuts etc. that were to small to be of any further use. Also needed to clear the part of the garden I've been using to store materials as the Admiral's spring bulbs are pushing themselves up in the adjacent flower beds!
Time to start working on the roof......
Cheers,
Graham.
 
 
 

The weather, plus seasonal events have slowed progress down but today, the first in a while with no rain forecast, enough work has been done to warrant an up-date. 
Christmas Eve: I made a MDF routing jig for the porthole which includes the position of the mounting holes. The plan is to use four 20 mm x 100 mm coach bolts with dome head nuts for the main fixing but with the remaining holes covered with the same nuts but on dummy wooden pegs to save a bit on the expense.
The position of the porthole has also been lowered a touch.

A profile cutter in the router shaped the additional timber framing.

After roughing out the hole in the OSB board with a jigsaw the opening was worked from the other side with the router.

Today, after machining the recess for the door cill, all external edge timbers of the base were given a couple of coats of bitumen paint to seal and improve water resistance.

The final wall panel, the near gable end with the French doors, was framed up on top of the far wall to ensure the roof angles were maintained. 
It was built around a temporary timber door frame made to the exact size for the unit on order.

Couldn't resist the temptation to slot it all together........ just to check....

With the sun beginning to set it was time to return it all to it's flat pack form and under tarpaulins to await the arrival of the composite wall cladding.
 
Happy New Year  
 

Just wow!
Are you using different kinds of pear, or you have one batch of pear that you sort according to the color?

I finished blending in the Rudderhead framing to the stern and then started mocking up the upper counter and stern light layout - still needs tweaking.
 

You should try a mock up rudder in the space. For some reason none of the rudders on my models will go through the full range of movement because my openings are too small.

In the past, at 1:48, I've put together several pieces to form those compound curves. The rail also curves in plan view AND is sloped as seen from the side!)

Hi All,
 
I was having a lot of issues revolving around the QD Transom piece that I have now figured out and thought I would share with other SWAN-TFFM builders, not knowing if this has been recognized before.
 
On page 11 of TFFM-Vol #2, there is a pattern supplied in 1:48 scale for you to use to cut out your blank with, however it appears it is not the correct size!!
 
Let me explain that I tried using this pattern and kept finding it far to wide compared to my own Pegasus aft framing and I was starting to worry until I decided to check the pattern's width as compared to other drawings in TFFM.
If you compare it VS the "elevation of counter timbers" drawing on Page #9 TFFM-Vol #2 you will find the pattern is approx 3 11/32" at its widest point but the drawing is just about 3 3/32"
I decided to test it against another drawing on page #182 of TFFM-Vol #2, this shows the Quarter deck beam layouts but it also shows the QD transom on it, and this as well makes the Transom 3 3/32" wide.
 
SO - I copied and made a template using the page #182 transom and this fit almost perfectly to my model.
 
See some pictures below showing the difference in size and what my new one using page #182 looks like.
 

Now I’m trying to figure out the layout for the stern, I see that I do need to do a bit of fairing to the outer counter Timbers to make them and the inner framing a little thinner.
 

 

Work on completing the upper deck framing is coming along nicely.
 

Work on Pegasus starts again.
First on the list was to tie the upper deck into the wing transom.

While trying to make the Quarter piece blanks, I deamed it a good idea to mark out where the Quarter badges would be so there would be no interference between them, so here is the beautiful QB that I commissioned from David Antscherl.

 

Hi 🙂

Greg's and druxey's gluing ideas worked well. Tiny drops of carpenter's glue between the piece and a sheet of plywood held everything firmly enough to sand fair on three sides. Isopropyl removed it from the ply, and as the British say, "Bob's your uncle!"
 
Good trick for refining small delicate parts.
 
Glued together on the hull, still not fully faired to each other:

then glued down on plywood:
 

 
Faired, and pinned back on the hull:
 
 

This piece reminds me of the great quote on Remco's HMS Kingfisher site: "Treat each part as if it is a model on its own, you will finish more models in a day than others do in a lifetime."
 
Mark
 
 

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