Mike Y
-
Posts
1,437 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
Mike Y got a reaction from Cap'n Rat Fink in 18th Century Longboat by Mike Y - Model Shipways - 1:48
Ok, boxwood stem and keel looks really better, I actually did not expected how better!
Sanded it with 400 => 600 => 1200 => 2000 grits. After 2000 grit castello starts to change the color to a deeper yellow, and starts to have a shine. Really interesting transformation! Need to experiment a lot when it would be a time to apply some protective finish:
Used another kind of scarf joint for keel. I know it is not the joint that should be really used on a keel, but it just looks nicer, and just wanted to practice that tricky joint on such scale. Looks ok, or maybe I should have made it longer? Right now joint is done on an angle around 60deg, but maybe something closer to 70-75 would be better (if joint length is three times joint width).
What is the golden rule of thumb for such joints?
Close-up:
Next step is frame fitting. Frames are gently sanded, and ready to go!
-
Mike Y got a reaction from dgbot in 18th Century Longboat by Mike Y - Model Shipways - 1:48
Ok, boxwood stem and keel looks really better, I actually did not expected how better!
Sanded it with 400 => 600 => 1200 => 2000 grits. After 2000 grit castello starts to change the color to a deeper yellow, and starts to have a shine. Really interesting transformation! Need to experiment a lot when it would be a time to apply some protective finish:
Used another kind of scarf joint for keel. I know it is not the joint that should be really used on a keel, but it just looks nicer, and just wanted to practice that tricky joint on such scale. Looks ok, or maybe I should have made it longer? Right now joint is done on an angle around 60deg, but maybe something closer to 70-75 would be better (if joint length is three times joint width).
What is the golden rule of thumb for such joints?
Close-up:
Next step is frame fitting. Frames are gently sanded, and ready to go!
-
Mike Y reacted to Sjors in ESSEX 1799 by samueljr - prototype build for Model Shipways kit
Someone is calling me ????????/
Ok, here I'am at last !!!!!
Is there a seat for me left?
I'm always in for something like this.
I put this on my wish list and maybe when we are going to visit the USA , I'll take one back to me to Holland (If I can convince Anja)
One moment please, I have to go to the storage room to get the popcorn machine....
Here he is.
Enjoy.
P.S. Sam, don't forget to say Hi to your mother
-
Mike Y reacted to jburchfield1@wowway.com in 18th Century Longboat by Mike Y - Model Shipways - 1:48
Liking all the pictures Mike!
-
Mike Y got a reaction from Cap'n Rat Fink in 18th Century Longboat by Mike Y - Model Shipways - 1:48
Floyd, maybe we had kits from different production batches, in my kit the stem have a proper grain direction, and it's not fragile at all. But thanks for a heads up!
Actually decided to make stem and keel out of boxwood. The reason is different - stem is a bit grey, and it's not something you can sand away. It's just how basswood looks like when it's cross grain:
It's quite visible on a contrast with keel, which have another grain direction. Looks dirty.
So making it out of boxwood.
-
Mike Y got a reaction from mtaylor in 18th Century Longboat by Mike Y - Model Shipways - 1:48
Ok, boxwood stem and keel looks really better, I actually did not expected how better!
Sanded it with 400 => 600 => 1200 => 2000 grits. After 2000 grit castello starts to change the color to a deeper yellow, and starts to have a shine. Really interesting transformation! Need to experiment a lot when it would be a time to apply some protective finish:
Used another kind of scarf joint for keel. I know it is not the joint that should be really used on a keel, but it just looks nicer, and just wanted to practice that tricky joint on such scale. Looks ok, or maybe I should have made it longer? Right now joint is done on an angle around 60deg, but maybe something closer to 70-75 would be better (if joint length is three times joint width).
What is the golden rule of thumb for such joints?
Close-up:
Next step is frame fitting. Frames are gently sanded, and ready to go!
-
Mike Y got a reaction from jburchfield1@wowway.com in 18th Century Longboat by Mike Y - Model Shipways - 1:48
Floyd, maybe we had kits from different production batches, in my kit the stem have a proper grain direction, and it's not fragile at all. But thanks for a heads up!
Actually decided to make stem and keel out of boxwood. The reason is different - stem is a bit grey, and it's not something you can sand away. It's just how basswood looks like when it's cross grain:
It's quite visible on a contrast with keel, which have another grain direction. Looks dirty.
So making it out of boxwood.
-
Mike Y got a reaction from mtaylor in 18th Century Longboat by Mike Y - Model Shipways - 1:48
Floyd, maybe we had kits from different production batches, in my kit the stem have a proper grain direction, and it's not fragile at all. But thanks for a heads up!
Actually decided to make stem and keel out of boxwood. The reason is different - stem is a bit grey, and it's not something you can sand away. It's just how basswood looks like when it's cross grain:
It's quite visible on a contrast with keel, which have another grain direction. Looks dirty.
So making it out of boxwood.
-
Mike Y reacted to fnkershner in 18th Century Longboat by Mike Y - Model Shipways - 1:48
Mike - The grain on the Stem does not run up & down as it should. So there is a very real chance that the top (or head) of the stem will break off. this is mentioned in several other logs. I took my que from Chuck S. in San Diego. Also the WOP does strength the wood. this is the reason I painted a couple of coats on both the stem and bulkheads.
-
Mike Y reacted to gjdale in ESSEX 1799 by samueljr - prototype build for Model Shipways kit
Right, I'm in for this one too. Who's got the popcorn and beer?
-
Mike Y reacted to Chuck in 18th Century Longboat by Mike Y - Model Shipways - 1:48
If you line out the hull with tick marks for the planking, you can determine the width of each strake at each bulkhead. What I like to do but couldnt in the kit instructions, (pre milled strips and all) would be to place the first sheer strake into position. Then line off the hull from the bottom of the shear strake to the keel NOT INCLUDING THE GARBOARD. After you line off the hull it will reveal the shape of the garboard....this can be cut and positioned early so that you will have a consistent remaining space to plank. Planking the garboard early allows you the opportunity to see the negative unplanked space remaining and see how that space runs bow to stern. If you see that negative space getting too wide or too narrow in places...it probably means your garboard is shaped incorrectly. By lining off the hull you can also avoid any guesswork.
See Bob's build log. I would do it exactly the same way...in fact this is exactly how I planked the hull except I do add the shear strake first. It strengthens the hull and allows me to create the shear curve I want before lining off the rest of the hull.
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1465-18th-century-longboat-by-bobf-ms-148-tri-club/page-2
Chuck
-
Mike Y reacted to Stuntflyer in 18th Century Longboat by Mike Y - Model Shipways - 1:48
Mike, I did it early on because Chuck said so in his instructions and I wasn't about to question the master. Perhaps he will give us some insight here. I will say that placing the garboard early on does a lot to strengthen the overall structure. Remember also that you will have to reduce the number of tick marks forward of the garboard plank by 1 or 2 depending on which bulkhead.
-
Mike Y reacted to fnkershner in 18th Century Longboat by Mike Y - Model Shipways - 1:48
Grant you beat me! You must have some serious power under the hood. As soon as I heard of the opening of this log I headed straight for here!
So Mike you decided to use the keel & stem from the kit. One suggestion - As noted in some of the other logs the Stem is very fragile and likely to break at the head. Since the grain runs the wrong way. Also did you paint the Bass parts with WOP as suggested by Chuck? It sure helps with making things stronger. I can only imagine that once we get to the point of removing the bulkheads this will be a benefit.
-
Mike Y got a reaction from maddog33 in 18th Century Longboat by Mike Y - Model Shipways - 1:48
It is second build, first one was a similar model - English Pinnace
This time I will make it slower, no rush. And will try to avoid all mistakes done on Pinnace
I will use kit details for frames and keel, and boxwood for everything else.
No paint, no stain, only natural wood colour. No friesers, and no paintings on a transom also. Instead, it would be planked and treenailed.
Sorry for skipping the decorations, I just prefer the simple design.
For a start - traditional photos of every longboat builder - parts sanded from laser char, keel and falsekeel, simple building jig to hold it straight.
First pinnace mistake avoided - bevel on a false keel is smaller, different angle, to gently handle a plank on an angle specified by frames. Sounds obvious, but on a pinnace I made a bevel with a wrong angle, and there was a small gap between garboard plank and keel.
First impression - it is sooooooo small! Very nice scale, it is big enough to make it with a good precision (I hope), but fits into a palm. Should be very cute when done
-
Mike Y reacted to gjdale in 18th Century Longboat by Mike Y - Model Shipways - 1:48
Whew, that was quite a rush to get over here from your Pinnace log Mike! Okay, made it in time for a front row seat. Mark, be a good fellow and pass me a coldie and some popcorn please.
-
Mike Y got a reaction from fatih79 in 18th Century Longboat by Mike Y - Model Shipways - 1:48
It is second build, first one was a similar model - English Pinnace
This time I will make it slower, no rush. And will try to avoid all mistakes done on Pinnace
I will use kit details for frames and keel, and boxwood for everything else.
No paint, no stain, only natural wood colour. No friesers, and no paintings on a transom also. Instead, it would be planked and treenailed.
Sorry for skipping the decorations, I just prefer the simple design.
For a start - traditional photos of every longboat builder - parts sanded from laser char, keel and falsekeel, simple building jig to hold it straight.
First pinnace mistake avoided - bevel on a false keel is smaller, different angle, to gently handle a plank on an angle specified by frames. Sounds obvious, but on a pinnace I made a bevel with a wrong angle, and there was a small gap between garboard plank and keel.
First impression - it is sooooooo small! Very nice scale, it is big enough to make it with a good precision (I hope), but fits into a palm. Should be very cute when done
-
Mike Y reacted to mtaylor in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Do you know how to draw a crowd or what??? :) I guess I'd best follow the teeming masses...
-
Mike Y reacted to jburchfield1@wowway.com in 18th Century Longboat by Mike Y - Model Shipways - 1:48
I was looking at that first link you posted and I think I see what I've been doing wrong.
1st my garboard plank has too abrupt a curve to it. Gonna have to remake those. No big deal.
2nd I noticed that Bob dropped a tick mark on the bulkhead forward of where the garboard plank begins which solves the other problem I was having.
Also, I noticed that after 3 or 4 planks up the downward curve of the planks disappears which solves the last problem I was envisioning.
Still want to see lots of pics tho!
-
Mike Y got a reaction from Cap'n Rat Fink in 18th Century Longboat by Mike Y - Model Shipways - 1:48
It is second build, first one was a similar model - English Pinnace
This time I will make it slower, no rush. And will try to avoid all mistakes done on Pinnace
I will use kit details for frames and keel, and boxwood for everything else.
No paint, no stain, only natural wood colour. No friesers, and no paintings on a transom also. Instead, it would be planked and treenailed.
Sorry for skipping the decorations, I just prefer the simple design.
For a start - traditional photos of every longboat builder - parts sanded from laser char, keel and falsekeel, simple building jig to hold it straight.
First pinnace mistake avoided - bevel on a false keel is smaller, different angle, to gently handle a plank on an angle specified by frames. Sounds obvious, but on a pinnace I made a bevel with a wrong angle, and there was a small gap between garboard plank and keel.
First impression - it is sooooooo small! Very nice scale, it is big enough to make it with a good precision (I hope), but fits into a palm. Should be very cute when done
-
Mike Y got a reaction from Elmer Cornish in 18th Century Longboat by Mike Y - Model Shipways - 1:48
It is second build, first one was a similar model - English Pinnace
This time I will make it slower, no rush. And will try to avoid all mistakes done on Pinnace
I will use kit details for frames and keel, and boxwood for everything else.
No paint, no stain, only natural wood colour. No friesers, and no paintings on a transom also. Instead, it would be planked and treenailed.
Sorry for skipping the decorations, I just prefer the simple design.
For a start - traditional photos of every longboat builder - parts sanded from laser char, keel and falsekeel, simple building jig to hold it straight.
First pinnace mistake avoided - bevel on a false keel is smaller, different angle, to gently handle a plank on an angle specified by frames. Sounds obvious, but on a pinnace I made a bevel with a wrong angle, and there was a small gap between garboard plank and keel.
First impression - it is sooooooo small! Very nice scale, it is big enough to make it with a good precision (I hope), but fits into a palm. Should be very cute when done
-
Mike Y got a reaction from mtaylor in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Just in case somebody is interested - I started the longboat build log - http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/6801-18th-century-longboat-by-mike-y-model-shipways-148/
Nothing interesting there (yet), but a warm welcome to all subscribers of this log, I will try to make it as interesting as possible.
Popcorn, beer, sandwiches, sawdust!
-
Mike Y got a reaction from Stoofvlees in HMS Cumberland 1774 by AlexBaranov - FINISHED - 1:36
It is the first model where even the dust looks authentic! Exceptional!
-
-
.thumb.jpeg.fc5d633a7b34428fcf19419a73d56d55.jpeg)
Mike Y got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Thanks for that wave of comments!
Finished the display case. I made it out of plexiglass sheets and L shaped furu wood.
Looks so-so, CA is not the best way to glue plexiglass, and frankly I failed to cut accurate glass rectangles with required precision. So next time will buy a manufactured case.
It sounds ridiculous, but I have no place to put the model on display. This problem slightly crossed my mind before, but I preferred not to think where to put model before it's finished.
So now it is going to the drawer, until I move from rental to my own apartment, where I can easily mount a nice shelf on a wall
Next build would be a scratch Oliver Cromwell using Hahn's method, but I just ordered it from Lumberyard a few weeks ago.
So will start a Longboat build while waiting. Hope that Oliver Cromwell will arrive in a matter of a month or so, hence Longboat would become a side build - when I will feel bored with cutting big pieces into small pieces to make a big pieces to cut them into small pieces to make a big pieces © mtaylor.
-
Mike Y reacted to 42rocker in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Your display case looks very good.
The model looks great also. Everything looks great. Thanks for sharing this with us.
Later Tim
Our Emblem ®
