42rocker

So hard to believe this is out of card stock. You have done a great job.
 
Later 42rocker

Thanks for posting this again.
A very interesting way to make a grating.
 
Later 42rocker

The way that you have made the curved surfaces fit together so nicely, wow what craftsman ship. Your work is outstanding.
Always look forward to seeing your next posting.
 
Later 42rocker

Rob perhaps if you cut them into shorter lengths then you could first of all split them in half with and ax and a small heavy hammer.
Take say an 16 inch pieces which is approx 600 mm place the axe squarely across the centre of the log and hit the back of the axe with the hammer this will split the log lengthwise into two halves, take each of the halves and split them up into quarters. you can then set your axe to a position that is about 30mm  parallel to one of the first split faces and repeat the splitting. I have done this on quite a few occasions, and the advantage is that the wood slits along the grain which relieves some of the inherent stresses the wood dries quite well this way.
 
Here is a series of pictures that i just took perhaps 15 minutes worth of time to cut a 200mm log of wet aspen
 sorry I did not have any other on hand.
 

1 chainsawed the knot off the end

2 chainsawed about 14 inches of straight grain

3 Set axe across centre.

4use hammer to split wood

5 two halves ready to be quartered

6 set axe to approx 30mm and split again

7 and again

8 veiw showing the quarter cutting no sawdust yet other than the chainsaw

9 Piece clamped ready to smooth out a little prior to sticking

 few wet shavings the piece is ready to dry.
 
Ron think about how long you really need the wood to be, most of us cut the wood up into shorter lengths anyway and a 12 -15 inch 300 to 400 mm length is easy to split with an axe.
 
I hope this helps. good luck with the wood.
 
Michael
 
 

T e i l  20

Thanks every one. Seems I have been a little distracted with other things, such as life in general and figure I needed to add another up date. This time its with the bulkheads in the hold. There was a total of only four in Montagu hold starting with the bulkhead that separated the magazine. Going aft one runs in to the bulkhead that enclosed the front part of the spirt room, followed by the fish room and finally the bread room. Wish I had installed some barrels in the hold along with some pig iron and gravel that they would of used to steady the ship. One item that one should be able to make out is the pillars underneath each of the orlop beams. Do hope you enjoy the photos.
Gary


 
 

T e i l 19

Hello friends,
new Pictures of the BHR.
Portions of Bowsprit, Foremast and the bumpkin.
(Auslieger des Fockhalses)
 
Regards Karl 
 
 
 
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Hello 42rocker
Thanks for the info. I think your drawing is fine. Thanks for the links also.
I see you quartered the log and assume from there it was quarter sawn. I've been studying the importance of plain/quarter/rift sawn lumber and how this effects the overall stability of the wood.
Here and interestimng link which has an interesting picture of diagrams showing the difference. This also shows 2 variations on quarter sawn, with 1 center slab vs 2 which is interesting. To my understanding a radial cut is always preferable.
 
http://www.northendhardwoods.com/2010/09/quarter-sawn-vs-plain-sawn-vs-rift-sawn-lumber/
 
 

It would be kinda tough to measure out to 5 significant places.     When I was in Engineering the rule was:  "Measure with a laser inferometer.  Mark it with a piece of chalk.  And cut it with an axe."    

You should see my toolbox at work. Maintenance on cnc machinery and metal parts fabrication.  We have machine built in america from the 1940's to present, then we also have machines from Japan, Germany, England, Australia, Sweden, China, Taiwan, just to name a few. Some were partially built overseas then finished here, makes it a real nightmare to work on them  

What inside work. It's great!
 
Later 42rocker

Was that mm or cm or dm?? I thought that it was 2.54 cm to the inch. Really the last two hold outs the US of A and Liberia. We both us the good old British Imperial system and the rest of you blokes use metric.
As far as change over it would be easy. Most of out stuff comes in and it's metric already. Try to us an old set of sockets on a new car. You really need both sets.
 
What is so funny is the idea that folks can measure out to that last place anyway. Look at the post above by Mark to get the idea.
 
Later 42rocker

Because its not on the Model Expo site yet....After many requests here it is by chapter

 

Introduction 

 

Chapter 1 

 

Chapter 2 

 

Chapter 3 

 

Chapter 4 

 

Chapter 5 

 

Chapter 6

 

Chapter 7 

 

Chapter 8

 

Chapter 9

 

Chapter 10

 

Chapter 11

 

Chapter 12

 

Chapter 13

 

Chapter 14 

 

Chapter 15

 

Chapter 16

 

Chapter 17

 

Chapter 18

 

Chapter 19

 

   THE END    

Russ
I really like the ideas and goals of the project and under the planks of my future build you will find butt joints. But the frames that I'm not going to plank I'm going to try for a few chocks. After looking at the keels of the Echo group photos I just have to give it a try. What the heck if I fail I can always drop back and do the keel without. Now after seeing the outside hull planking by Grant  "Boccherini" I'm going to be thinking about that also.
What the heck I can dream big, right?
 
Later 42rocker

But I can sneak in a few minutes on the computer at work, can't do that with the building of models at work. LOL.
 
Later 42rocker

So hard to believe this is out of card stock. You have done a great job.
 
Later 42rocker