Craigie65

021 - Ratlines
I have now completed the task of adding the ratlines to the main mast shrouds. There was a ratline template provided on the shroud rigging plan sheet which I copied on to a piece of card. With the template in place the ratlines were added. I started by adding every 5th ratline as indicated by the "0" on the following photo. Next I added the central "1" ratlines and then completed the process by adding the "2" ratlines.
 
The ratlines are aligned with the template guide lines, although they do not appear to be do so in the photo below.

The completed ratlines are not my best work but I am happy to move on to adding the main mast stay, bowsprit and main top mast.

 

Last couple of photos. Erycina is finished. 

Now you have shamed me to finish mine!
 
I need to finish a plastic kit first and then clear the decks to get the lathe out for her masts.
 
Yours is the stand out build of this kit - you have made it your own with all the detail you have added.

Now you have shamed me to finish mine!
 
I need to finish a plastic kit first and then clear the decks to get the lathe out for her masts.
 
Yours is the stand out build of this kit - you have made it your own with all the detail you have added.

OK, designs for the Baltimore privateer Grecian have been completed, and here are some pics of the 'quick and dirty' build I do, to check final designs. I do mean quick, as this time last week, it wasn't even planked! With that in mind, please note that I have literally threw the bits together on this without too much clean up. All this is for is to check all laser cut designs, to make sure all fit as they should - and if they don't, they are removed, a new part cut and re applied.
 
I have included a lot more ordnance than she ever carried, but if I just included a couple of 4 pounders and a couple of x 6 pounders, I am sure that wouldn't go down so well. So what I have done and will include is a choice. There will be 12 x 18 pounder carronades, 8 x 6 pounder long guns and 4 x 4 pounders. I have gone with a mainly carronade armament, plus a pair of 6 and 4 pounder cannon - but the modeller can change this if they so wish.
 
I will also include a 3d printed 20 foot cutter hull and the laser cut floors, thwarts and oars to go with it.
 
I have included a couple of pics showing its size in relation to Sphinx and Speedy - the latter looks very tubby when sat next to the very sleek schooner!

So going onward. I noticed they did not make the opening for the hatch leading to the lower deck so I opened it . The plans also did not plank the central section until later which ruins the flow. I do not think I can be as creative as the Blue ensign build.
 

016 - Deck Items - Part 1
Time for a quick update.
 
First task was to add the transfers to the hull.
I also opened up the slot for the bowsprit.

I then started to add some of the deck items, as can be seen in the next few photos. It should not take me too long to add the remaining deck items, all of which have been built.

The next item was a very fiddly item to assembly. I did forget to remove the laser char from the doors.

I forgot to paint the bracket sections black before the installation of the following item, as can be seen in the photo below. I did manage to paint the brackets black in situ as can be seen in the final photo.

 

A lovely ship to build.
If you have not done so already I would read @Blue Ensign build log.  It is a masterclass in building this kit. I know I shamelessly copied some of his ideas.

015 - Smoothing and Painting The Hull - Part 2
I continued to fill, sand and paint the hull. With the hull looking and feeling smooth it was time to move on to the next stage. It was necessary to remove the tape so the rudder assembly could be fitted. I was also able to check if there was any paint bleed. As can be seen there is a fairly clean separation.

The rudder was fitted without any problems. I also gave the hull a light sand along the water line to remove any raised paint edges before the tape was reapplied. I used 6mm tape for the critical taping, as seen below.

With the hull fully taped the white paint was applied, with two light coats. I gave the hull a very light sand with 600-grit sandpaper between each paint coat. The hull does look really smooth and the spotlights can be seen reflecting off the wet white paint.
Once the white paint had dried I added a 6mm tape line below the waterline and then sprayed the hull red (Plastikote Red Oxide).

Once the red oxide paint had dried all the tape was removed. I was reasonably happy with the end result. I still need to apply WOP coat to the unpainted wood area but I will clean up any paint overspills before I do this.

Thank you all for your very kind comments and encouragement. Alert it is next! 

Those are lovely boats, Dan. The colours work well together.  You should be very proud of your fleet and your skills.
 
I think you would enjoy the challenge of one of Vanguard’s smaller warships - HMS Alert looks a sweet little model. With the instructions online you can always look to see how involved the build would be.
 

Those are lovely boats, Dan. The colours work well together.  You should be very proud of your fleet and your skills.
 
I think you would enjoy the challenge of one of Vanguard’s smaller warships - HMS Alert looks a sweet little model. With the instructions online you can always look to see how involved the build would be.
 

Those are lovely boats, Dan. The colours work well together.  You should be very proud of your fleet and your skills.
 
I think you would enjoy the challenge of one of Vanguard’s smaller warships - HMS Alert looks a sweet little model. With the instructions online you can always look to see how involved the build would be.
 

The first 5 Indy kits complete in boxes, all they wait for is plans, manual and box label.

Weekend update.
 
The bow is now done. Please forgive some of the dust in these pictures. I did more or less remove it for the final figurehead pics.
 
Creating a 3D knee for the timberhead is done by means of using laminated pear parts, first soaked and then clamped into a custom jig until dry. These are then glued and clamped together until set and then the part is shaped for installation. 
 





 
 
 
 
It's now the turn of the bow grates to be installed.


 
 
 
 
I really don't know why these are called 'seats of ease'. The last thing I'd want to do at 3am is to go out to one of these with the seas lashing around my backside!

 
 
 
 
The largest bow timbers are now installed.

 
 
 
 
This kit is supplied with Polybak detail parts instead of photo-etch. not only are these made in-house at VM, but they look far nicer to my eye and are easier to paint. Here you see the decor installed on the prow. 


 
 
 
 
I don't advocate fitting the figurehead at this time, but Chris did want to see how it looked, so here it is!


 
 
 
Ok, I'll be starting the stern tomorrow. 

A confession:
 
I have to start this update with me being given a gentle nudge as to painting reminder about painting convention when it comes to the head timbers. I painted them in black, with ochre insets where the engraved areas were. Whoop! That should almost all have been inverted! I painted the original way because it seemed the logical way, but nope... Here are the newly painted timbers. You'll note that some are now entirely ochre. This is how it should be, if using those conventions. I used a 0.1mm black Edding pen for some details.
 

 
 
With Indy, the waterline marks are supplied as waterslide decals. I used a setting solution with these so that they help to conform to any surface details. First of all though, the application area was painted in gloss varnish. Remember...don't decal to a matt surface!
 

 
 
 
The catheads are now finished and installed to the model. A small section of rail below the cathead, is removed. One of the parts leading to the head timbers will slot under there, with the curved knee sat over the upper edge.




 
 
 
Lastly for now, the timberheads are installed to the gunwales. These are first shaped slightly.

 
 
 
Until later...
 
 

Well recovered, you are nearly there.
 
Loving the paint scheme. If you think the white is too bright for the rubbing strake, perhaps an off-white might be more in keeping?

Well recovered, you are nearly there.
 
Loving the paint scheme. If you think the white is too bright for the rubbing strake, perhaps an off-white might be more in keeping?

011 - Second Planking LHS
I have now completed the second planking layer on the left-hand side. I was really happy with how the first few planks were fitted. I then seemed to find one plank really difficult to fit. So I decided to experiment with the lateral edge bending method to see if that would help.
 
A plank was held  either end of the required bend with clamps. I then glued two small lengths of some planking material off-cuts to make a simple jig, the top off-cut overhung the bottom so when in place it would keep the plank to be bent flat. The jig also allowed me to apply a  required bend to the plank.

With the plank held in place I brushed on some water and then left it dry overnight. I could have applied some heat to sped up the process (with hair dryer or iron). However when the plank was released from the clamps it had retained the bend. I was then very pleased that the laterally bent plank was a perfect fit.

I have attached some pictures of the completed  left-hand side. There will be a little it of work required to sand, fill and smooth the hull below the water line .before the painting process. I still struggle to use super glue (gel) when adding these planks. I start by adding a few drops along the first 50mm (approx) of the plank and then I place it on the hull. Once I am happy the glue is holding the plank in place I add more drops, this time to the hull, under the plank, working in sections. I use a broken micro drill end to add the glue to the hull.  Any excess glue is wiped away.

 

The shackle for holding the fishdavit.  The only reason I know is my Granado has them fitted.  As much as I would like to claim the dram, it is a bit far.  I’ll raise a glass of Talisker to you, Slainte!

010 - Adding the outer patterns and start of second planking
I have now added the outer patterns for the stem, keel and stern post. I have also added the outer bulwark patterns and the first plank underneath the bulwarks.
 
I then added the upper and lower outer stern counter patterns.

With reference to the next photo you will note that I did manage to break the upper outer stern board pattern, indicated by the blue arrow. I will need to tidy up the broken joint area before I apply a coat or two of white paint. There is also a little plank filler required as indicated by yellow arrow.

With a little bit of work the filler piece was added, as indicated by the yellow arrow in the following photo. I have also tidied up the joint where I had broken upper stern board pattern.

 

Many thanks Kevin. You're doing a great job on the Lady Eleanor.  Nisha is a nice easy build (so far). I am really looking forward to the release of the Indy which will be a mammoth undertaking. It took me 11 months to build the Sphinx but I would expect Indy will be 2 to 3 year build project.

008 - 1st Planking RSH Completed
I have now completed the first planking on the right-hand side. After completing the first banding I fitting the garboard plank. Although it was not strictly necessary I did fit this in two halves.

It was then a simple job to fit the remaining two planks to complete the right hand planking. I am very happy with the first planking and it should not take too much sanding to create a nice smooth surface ready for the second planking.

I did stop the planks short of the stern post which will enable to planks to be tapered (thinned) so the second planking will fit flush with the outer stern post pattern.

I will test fit the outer stem post pattern and will trim the planking around the stem post as necessary to ensure there is a nice rabbet for the second planking.

 
 
 

You are not hanging around, are you!  
I reckon the practice on Nisha will stand you in good stead for the Indy.  
Looking at the first two or three planks on the starboard side they seem to be encroaching at the stem (pic number 8).  Will that give you an issue for the second planking?

I don't think there issue with the 2nd planking as I have test fitted the stem outer patterns after fitting the first two planks. When I built the Erycina and Saucy Jack I did end up trimming some of the 1st planking back a bit so the 2nd planking would fit in the rabbet.