EdT

Thank you for your comments and for the images, Rick.  Having read the books, you will know that deciding on that pin rail was one of the more difficult choices in designing the model.  Although there were others, most are well hidden within the ship and not as visible as this one.  My only excuse would be that all of those lines had to belay somewhere.  For those who don't remember, here's a reminder.  Note also the very full rail forward of the poop break.
 

 
Cheers,
 
Ed

Thanks, again, for your comments on this, Grant.  Good advice.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 320 – Running Rigging Continued
 
The last 1% always seems to be the most difficult to complete – or perhaps its just the most exhausting.  It seems like not a lot has gotten done since the last post almost three weeks ago.  A fair amount of time was spent adjusting tension on the 60-odd main mast belaying points – a time consuming task – and one that is dangerous for completed work that gets in the way.  Not a lot to show for that effort. That is now complete and the pins should be ready for rope coils.
 
Work has also been continuing on the mizzen yards, as shown in the first picture.
 

 
The upper topsail and the topgallant were installed in the past couple weeks.  Below is the view from aft.
 

 
Below is a picture of the poop deck pin rail about half full and the last main deck rail forward of it – almost full.
 

 
Installing mast trucks and signal halyards is in progress.  In the next picture one of the trucks being bored to fit the its mast pole.
 

 
The top is left a bit flat so the sheave holes can be drilled without slipping off the side.  The next picture shows that work – with a very short bit extension.
 

 
Below is a picture of the house flag, pre-assembled with its truck and halyard.
 

 
The flag is painted with thinned acrylic gouache on some very old drafting linen that has had its wax sizing removed by boiling then washing.  It is the house flag of the William Daniels Company of New York that owned the ship from its launch in 1853 until 1859, when it was sold to another shipper.  The truck will be fitted to the mast pole without glue, held down by the fit and the halyard that runs down to the deck.  This will allow it to be removed and replaced – a possibility.  The last picture shows it flying from the top of the main mast.  
 
 

 
Similar trucks with halyards are being fitted to the other masts but without flags at this time. 
 
Ed
 

Well. it would be an understatement to say I am overwhelmed by all these most generous comments.  It is also nice to hear from those who have been regular but silent followers.  I wish I could individually  thank everyone for the more than 35 comments and 50+ likes after the last post.  Every one of them is well appreciated.  Perhaps one more photo would not be amiss.
 

Thanks again, everyone, for all your support throughout the project.
 
Ed
 
 

My preference would be to have you post questions here on the build log so that others may benefit as well - and offer answers and comments as well.  I keep an eye on this daily.
 
Ed

Thank you for your comments and for the images, Rick.  Having read the books, you will know that deciding on that pin rail was one of the more difficult choices in designing the model.  Although there were others, most are well hidden within the ship and not as visible as this one.  My only excuse would be that all of those lines had to belay somewhere.  For those who don't remember, here's a reminder.  Note also the very full rail forward of the poop break.
 

 
Cheers,
 
Ed

You can create a stop point on the Sherline Mill by setting the Z-Axis height to the end of travel on the bit in the  sensitive drilling attachment.  For example, raise the head using the Z-axis wheel with the drilling attachment fully extended so the tip of the bit rests on the surface to be drilled, then lower the precise depth required on the Z-axis.  Sorry if I,m beginning to sound like a Sherline shareholder.

You can create a stop point on the Sherline Mill by setting the Z-Axis height to the end of travel on the bit in the  sensitive drilling attachment.  For example, raise the head using the Z-axis wheel with the drilling attachment fully extended so the tip of the bit rests on the surface to be drilled, then lower the precise depth required on the Z-axis.  Sorry if I,m beginning to sound like a Sherline shareholder.

You can create a stop point on the Sherline Mill by setting the Z-Axis height to the end of travel on the bit in the  sensitive drilling attachment.  For example, raise the head using the Z-axis wheel with the drilling attachment fully extended so the tip of the bit rests on the surface to be drilled, then lower the precise depth required on the Z-axis.  Sorry if I,m beginning to sound like a Sherline shareholder.

Richard, I would urge you to look at the Sherline sensitive drilling attachment to make drilling with the mill easier.   If this is the "jiggly" attachment you refer to, I am surprised.  It is by far the most used device on my mill, allowing me to lower the drill by hand in a controlled, but still precise way.  Drilling using the Z-axis wheel is not a good idea.  Drilling pressure is difficult to control in this way.  It puts heavy force on the drill bit that often results in breakage of small drills.  The hand-controlled method is much better.  If you do not have the drilling attachment, the link below shows it.
 
https://www.sherline.com/product/1012-532-sensitive-drilling-attachment/
 
Ed

Hi Randy,
 
My Unimat is an ancient Unimat SL that I purchased used in 1978.  It is not the item now offered by Micromark.  I cannot comment on that product.  I have a Sherline mill and can recommend it highly.  Whatever tools you buy will require additional accessories to do most things.  They can be expensive.  If I recall correctly, the most complex milling job in the book was making the pump wheels with their 5 s-curved spokes.  This required a rotary table, specific milling cutters, and of course, tools for measuring and centering of the rotary table.  For these pieces I would refer you to the detailed descriptions in the book.  This is a pretty complex bit of work and you may wish to forgo that complexity and the accessory cost and go with something simpler in design. 
 
Recognizing that not many of us are machinists (me included), I tried to provide very complete instructions on machining tasks.  I would recommend reading those and deciding what you wish to tackle.  This goes for most of the tasks where the machine tools were used.
 
Combination tools offer advantages and have some disadvantages.  Cost and perhaps space requirements are obvious advantages, but most of these tools have a small footprint on the workbench.  Cost benefits include initial machine costs plus savings on any accessories that can be used in different ways on the same machine.  The primary disadvantage is setup time.  For many years I used the Unimat as a lathe, a mill, a circular saw, grinder and drill press.  I gradually tired of the setup time required for the changeouts, sometimes multiple changes for a single piece, and eventually added single purpose tools, first a circular saw, then the Sherline mill.
 
The Sherline mill is a very versatile tool for tasks ranging from simple drilling to complex precision tasks.  In reading the books I am sure you noted that the range of uses is wide.  I find that the most useful Sherline mill accessory is the sensitive drilling attachment.  A rotating base for the milling vise is a useful everyday substitute for the expensive rotary table.  The list of Sherline accessories is long and bank account threatening.  The only gripe I have with Sherline is that the milling vise often makes me want to scream out loud.  I understand its design as a rigid platform for machining, but I often wish they had a simple screw vise to use for ordinary tasks like drilling and even some light machining.  I have been unsuccessful in finding something like this on the market.  Tool companies seem to avoid making accessories usable on other brands.
 
At the end of the day, you will need to evaluate your needs, your tolerance for the learning curve involved in the use of tools like this and the price tag of the initial tool and the accessories that will be needed.  You may find the chapter (YA Vol I) on tools and which ones to purchase first to be helpful, if you have not yet read it. 
 
Its all part of the work process,  Good luck.
 
Ed
 

Richard, I would urge you to look at the Sherline sensitive drilling attachment to make drilling with the mill easier.   If this is the "jiggly" attachment you refer to, I am surprised.  It is by far the most used device on my mill, allowing me to lower the drill by hand in a controlled, but still precise way.  Drilling using the Z-axis wheel is not a good idea.  Drilling pressure is difficult to control in this way.  It puts heavy force on the drill bit that often results in breakage of small drills.  The hand-controlled method is much better.  If you do not have the drilling attachment, the link below shows it.
 
https://www.sherline.com/product/1012-532-sensitive-drilling-attachment/
 
Ed

Richard, I would urge you to look at the Sherline sensitive drilling attachment to make drilling with the mill easier.   If this is the "jiggly" attachment you refer to, I am surprised.  It is by far the most used device on my mill, allowing me to lower the drill by hand in a controlled, but still precise way.  Drilling using the Z-axis wheel is not a good idea.  Drilling pressure is difficult to control in this way.  It puts heavy force on the drill bit that often results in breakage of small drills.  The hand-controlled method is much better.  If you do not have the drilling attachment, the link below shows it.
 
https://www.sherline.com/product/1012-532-sensitive-drilling-attachment/
 
Ed

Richard, I would urge you to look at the Sherline sensitive drilling attachment to make drilling with the mill easier.   If this is the "jiggly" attachment you refer to, I am surprised.  It is by far the most used device on my mill, allowing me to lower the drill by hand in a controlled, but still precise way.  Drilling using the Z-axis wheel is not a good idea.  Drilling pressure is difficult to control in this way.  It puts heavy force on the drill bit that often results in breakage of small drills.  The hand-controlled method is much better.  If you do not have the drilling attachment, the link below shows it.
 
https://www.sherline.com/product/1012-532-sensitive-drilling-attachment/
 
Ed

Richard, I would urge you to look at the Sherline sensitive drilling attachment to make drilling with the mill easier.   If this is the "jiggly" attachment you refer to, I am surprised.  It is by far the most used device on my mill, allowing me to lower the drill by hand in a controlled, but still precise way.  Drilling using the Z-axis wheel is not a good idea.  Drilling pressure is difficult to control in this way.  It puts heavy force on the drill bit that often results in breakage of small drills.  The hand-controlled method is much better.  If you do not have the drilling attachment, the link below shows it.
 
https://www.sherline.com/product/1012-532-sensitive-drilling-attachment/
 
Ed

Hi Randy,
 
My Unimat is an ancient Unimat SL that I purchased used in 1978.  It is not the item now offered by Micromark.  I cannot comment on that product.  I have a Sherline mill and can recommend it highly.  Whatever tools you buy will require additional accessories to do most things.  They can be expensive.  If I recall correctly, the most complex milling job in the book was making the pump wheels with their 5 s-curved spokes.  This required a rotary table, specific milling cutters, and of course, tools for measuring and centering of the rotary table.  For these pieces I would refer you to the detailed descriptions in the book.  This is a pretty complex bit of work and you may wish to forgo that complexity and the accessory cost and go with something simpler in design. 
 
Recognizing that not many of us are machinists (me included), I tried to provide very complete instructions on machining tasks.  I would recommend reading those and deciding what you wish to tackle.  This goes for most of the tasks where the machine tools were used.
 
Combination tools offer advantages and have some disadvantages.  Cost and perhaps space requirements are obvious advantages, but most of these tools have a small footprint on the workbench.  Cost benefits include initial machine costs plus savings on any accessories that can be used in different ways on the same machine.  The primary disadvantage is setup time.  For many years I used the Unimat as a lathe, a mill, a circular saw, grinder and drill press.  I gradually tired of the setup time required for the changeouts, sometimes multiple changes for a single piece, and eventually added single purpose tools, first a circular saw, then the Sherline mill.
 
The Sherline mill is a very versatile tool for tasks ranging from simple drilling to complex precision tasks.  In reading the books I am sure you noted that the range of uses is wide.  I find that the most useful Sherline mill accessory is the sensitive drilling attachment.  A rotating base for the milling vise is a useful everyday substitute for the expensive rotary table.  The list of Sherline accessories is long and bank account threatening.  The only gripe I have with Sherline is that the milling vise often makes me want to scream out loud.  I understand its design as a rigid platform for machining, but I often wish they had a simple screw vise to use for ordinary tasks like drilling and even some light machining.  I have been unsuccessful in finding something like this on the market.  Tool companies seem to avoid making accessories usable on other brands.
 
At the end of the day, you will need to evaluate your needs, your tolerance for the learning curve involved in the use of tools like this and the price tag of the initial tool and the accessories that will be needed.  You may find the chapter (YA Vol I) on tools and which ones to purchase first to be helpful, if you have not yet read it. 
 
Its all part of the work process,  Good luck.
 
Ed
 

Hello friends.
Look in my little model ship museum.
Karl
 
PART 37
 
 
 
 

Manufacture and assembly of the barrels.
Karl
 
Part 35

Karl-
 
 Beautiful work as usual! What type of finish do you use on your pearwood? I believe I remember reading in one of your logs at some point but I could be mistaken.
 
Thanks,
Chad

Cannons ready assembled.
Karl
 
Part 32

Bravo, Alberto!  Beautifully done from keel to figurehead.  I love the launch cradle display.  Wonderful work.
 
Ed

Bravo, Alberto!  Beautifully done from keel to figurehead.  I love the launch cradle display.  Wonderful work.
 
Ed

Robin, I usually do not let the camera lens wander above my wrists, but for you I make an exception - per your request....
 

 
Please excuse the typical clutter.
 
All the best,
 
Ed
 
ps. should have an update posting shortly.

Sounds like quite a gadget, Pat.

Hi Randy,
 
The first recommendation is to keep out debris as much as possible to begin with.  Of course this is more of a nice goal rather that a practical solution.  I have used a shop vac from outside the hull to suck or blow stuff out, but also used compressed air spray cans with long tubes.  These are pretty effective at removing dust and getting into tight spaces.  The open framing at the bottom is, of course, a big help when blowing out dust.
 
Ed