samueljr

As stated in a previous post the gun port stripes consist of 4 - 1/8" x 1/16" strips glued together off of the hull, progressively sanded and painted with several thin coats and then with a coat of wipe - on poly. They were cut to length (the reveal is on 1/32" on each side) the edges were painted white and then they were glued into place. The first and last piece(s) were left just a bit long and then sanded back into the hull.
 
Next Up - Planking the rest of the side

As stated in a previous post the gun port stripes consist of 4 - 1/8" x 1/16" strips glued together off of the hull, progressively sanded and painted with several thin coats and then with a coat of wipe - on poly. They were cut to length (the reveal is on 1/32" on each side) the edges were painted white and then they were glued into place. The first and last piece(s) were left just a bit long and then sanded back into the hull.
 
Next Up - Planking the rest of the side

As stated in a previous post the gun port stripes consist of 4 - 1/8" x 1/16" strips glued together off of the hull, progressively sanded and painted with several thin coats and then with a coat of wipe - on poly. They were cut to length (the reveal is on 1/32" on each side) the edges were painted white and then they were glued into place. The first and last piece(s) were left just a bit long and then sanded back into the hull.
 
Next Up - Planking the rest of the side

The next area moving upward are the gun port stripes. To get a crisp paint finish a number of steps will be/were performed off the hull and prior to installation.
 
The area(s) around the  gun ports and their inner edges were painted. Additionally 4 - 1/8" x 1/16" strips were painted white, while 1 - 3/16" x 1/16" strip was painted black. All surfaces were sanded progressivley. The strips and hull area were given several thin (water consistancy) coats of paint with a very light sanding between coats (600 grit) and wiped down. After the final coat of paint a finish of wipe - on poly was applied. 
 
The colors used are Artist Acrylics, Titanium White for the stripe and instead of a deep or stark black (such as Mars Black) Paynes Gray was used. It is a duller black, almost sooty in apearence.
 
The white strips will be glued together off of the hull and then cut to length to fit between the gunports. The black strip will cap the installation. This will create a sharp definition between the black and white surfaces.  
 
Next up: installation of the strips

As stated in a previous post the gun port stripes consist of 4 - 1/8" x 1/16" strips glued together off of the hull, progressively sanded and painted with several thin coats and then with a coat of wipe - on poly. They were cut to length (the reveal is on 1/32" on each side) the edges were painted white and then they were glued into place. The first and last piece(s) were left just a bit long and then sanded back into the hull.
 
Next Up - Planking the rest of the side

As stated in a previous post the gun port stripes consist of 4 - 1/8" x 1/16" strips glued together off of the hull, progressively sanded and painted with several thin coats and then with a coat of wipe - on poly. They were cut to length (the reveal is on 1/32" on each side) the edges were painted white and then they were glued into place. The first and last piece(s) were left just a bit long and then sanded back into the hull.
 
Next Up - Planking the rest of the side

Thanks For The Likes!

This past week, I turned my attention to the mizzen and made up, mounted and rigged the crojack, boom and gaff. All three yards are round in section throughout, and required only tapering and the addition of cleats for each and jaws in the case of the boom and gaff, before painting black.
 
For the crojack, foot ropes were added and then blocks for the sling, lifts, topsail sheets and braces. For the boom, a span was added for the topping lift and pendants and blocks for the guys. For the gaff, blocks were added for the peak and throat halyards, pendants and blocks for the vangs, and lead blocks and line for the mizzen topsail and topgallant braces. The crojack was mounted on it's pin and the boom and gaff were mounted with parrels made from wire and beads.
 
After mounting, rigging was done on each. On the crojack, I did the sling and the lifts. On the boom, I did the topping lift and the guys. On the gaff, I did the peak and throat halyards and the vangs. Most of the rigging was left only temporarily tied off. 
 
Now, I will do the topsail and topgallant yards.
 
Bob
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks For The Likes!

Thanks For The Likes!

The next area moving upward are the gun port stripes. To get a crisp paint finish a number of steps will be/were performed off the hull and prior to installation.
 
The area(s) around the  gun ports and their inner edges were painted. Additionally 4 - 1/8" x 1/16" strips were painted white, while 1 - 3/16" x 1/16" strip was painted black. All surfaces were sanded progressivley. The strips and hull area were given several thin (water consistancy) coats of paint with a very light sanding between coats (600 grit) and wiped down. After the final coat of paint a finish of wipe - on poly was applied. 
 
The colors used are Artist Acrylics, Titanium White for the stripe and instead of a deep or stark black (such as Mars Black) Paynes Gray was used. It is a duller black, almost sooty in apearence.
 
The white strips will be glued together off of the hull and then cut to length to fit between the gunports. The black strip will cap the installation. This will create a sharp definition between the black and white surfaces.  
 
Next up: installation of the strips

For those of you who have asked my apologies for not responding sooner, the source material for the build are the plans of the PRESIDENT after capture and the deck drawings of the UNITED STATES. There will be some additional sources as the build progresses all on the recommendation of acknowledged experts on the subject.
 
A cradle was created for the hull out of plywood. Felt was glued onto the surfaces to offer a soft resting place and hold the hull firm.
 
Above the wales I placed 3 - 3/16" strakes. All 1/16" thick. They arrive just short of the gun port openings (apprx. 1/32") creating the sill reveal. Once the inner tongues are removed the gunports will be fully framed internally.
 
As all with the lower planking theses strakes were pre-sanded.

The next area moving upward are the gun port stripes. To get a crisp paint finish a number of steps will be/were performed off the hull and prior to installation.
 
The area(s) around the  gun ports and their inner edges were painted. Additionally 4 - 1/8" x 1/16" strips were painted white, while 1 - 3/16" x 1/16" strip was painted black. All surfaces were sanded progressivley. The strips and hull area were given several thin (water consistancy) coats of paint with a very light sanding between coats (600 grit) and wiped down. After the final coat of paint a finish of wipe - on poly was applied. 
 
The colors used are Artist Acrylics, Titanium White for the stripe and instead of a deep or stark black (such as Mars Black) Paynes Gray was used. It is a duller black, almost sooty in apearence.
 
The white strips will be glued together off of the hull and then cut to length to fit between the gunports. The black strip will cap the installation. This will create a sharp definition between the black and white surfaces.  
 
Next up: installation of the strips

For those of you who have asked my apologies for not responding sooner, the source material for the build are the plans of the PRESIDENT after capture and the deck drawings of the UNITED STATES. There will be some additional sources as the build progresses all on the recommendation of acknowledged experts on the subject.
 
A cradle was created for the hull out of plywood. Felt was glued onto the surfaces to offer a soft resting place and hold the hull firm.
 
Above the wales I placed 3 - 3/16" strakes. All 1/16" thick. They arrive just short of the gun port openings (apprx. 1/32") creating the sill reveal. Once the inner tongues are removed the gunports will be fully framed internally.
 
As all with the lower planking theses strakes were pre-sanded.

For all those who have asked the build is the CONSTITUTION c. 1812 in 1:76.8 scale.
 
Tim Igoe is working with me on the project (testing my design) and will be producing a concurrent build thread.
 
Should be fun (famous last words)
 
Sam

Allen
 
 
Thank you for your interest.
 
 
The wale is actually not parallel to the gun ports. The angle of the photos (even straight on) is skewing the perspective a bit. Also, the scale of the build (1:76.8) is an OK size but a distance of say 2" is barely 1/32" so it changes are slight. The gun ports actually rise moving fore to aft about a 1/16" of an inch as well.
 
 
The source material for the build is an acknowledged historical source(s) endorsement by a recognized and accredited organization.
 
 
The build is 9"-3/4" long, 6" high (hull) and 5"-3/4" at beam (6"-3/4") at widest point. Height when masted will be approximately 34" with a main yard (w/stunsils) at 19".
 
 
The keel in scale is only 12" deep from bottom of garboard strake.
 
 
Much work to do.............
 
 
Samuel
 

Thank you Omega 1234

My mistake 
 
CORRECTION - 
 
A thin veneer was added to the edge of ech bulkhead/frame for a finishable surface
 
- SCJR

Starboard side.
 
Wales are installed. They feature a laser etched/embellished anchor stock planking detail. This will be repeated on Port. The wales, (for photgraphic detail) have been given a coat of wipe-on poly to highlight the etch. When finished they will be painted black.
 
There is one 3/16" strip installed below the wale. From that point down to planking band "C" the hull on Starboard will be left open for view of lower deck details.
 
A thin veneer was added to each bulkhead/frame face between the wale and band "C" providing a cleaner surface for finish (either paint or stain)
 
Next up: Above the wales

The next area moving upward are the gun port stripes. To get a crisp paint finish a number of steps will be/were performed off the hull and prior to installation.
 
The area(s) around the  gun ports and their inner edges were painted. Additionally 4 - 1/8" x 1/16" strips were painted white, while 1 - 3/16" x 1/16" strip was painted black. All surfaces were sanded progressivley. The strips and hull area were given several thin (water consistancy) coats of paint with a very light sanding between coats (600 grit) and wiped down. After the final coat of paint a finish of wipe - on poly was applied. 
 
The colors used are Artist Acrylics, Titanium White for the stripe and instead of a deep or stark black (such as Mars Black) Paynes Gray was used. It is a duller black, almost sooty in apearence.
 
The white strips will be glued together off of the hull and then cut to length to fit between the gunports. The black strip will cap the installation. This will create a sharp definition between the black and white surfaces.  
 
Next up: installation of the strips

For those of you who have asked my apologies for not responding sooner, the source material for the build are the plans of the PRESIDENT after capture and the deck drawings of the UNITED STATES. There will be some additional sources as the build progresses all on the recommendation of acknowledged experts on the subject.
 
A cradle was created for the hull out of plywood. Felt was glued onto the surfaces to offer a soft resting place and hold the hull firm.
 
Above the wales I placed 3 - 3/16" strakes. All 1/16" thick. They arrive just short of the gun port openings (apprx. 1/32") creating the sill reveal. Once the inner tongues are removed the gunports will be fully framed internally.
 
As all with the lower planking theses strakes were pre-sanded.

For those of you who have asked my apologies for not responding sooner, the source material for the build are the plans of the PRESIDENT after capture and the deck drawings of the UNITED STATES. There will be some additional sources as the build progresses all on the recommendation of acknowledged experts on the subject.
 
A cradle was created for the hull out of plywood. Felt was glued onto the surfaces to offer a soft resting place and hold the hull firm.
 
Above the wales I placed 3 - 3/16" strakes. All 1/16" thick. They arrive just short of the gun port openings (apprx. 1/32") creating the sill reveal. Once the inner tongues are removed the gunports will be fully framed internally.
 
As all with the lower planking theses strakes were pre-sanded.

Prepare your mold for pouring
 
There are many ways to do this but let me write about how I was taught.   Before you pour the resin in the mold, I usually dust it with talc or in this case baby powder.  This gives the cast part a nice finish and prevents bubbles from forming along the molds surface.  The bubbles will slide away to the surface or the back of the casting.  I will brush off the excess talk and make sure there isnt any clumping in the detailed areas of the mold.
 
The photo above shows the baby powder after I prepared the mold.  Next to it is some Alumilite casting resin.   There are many different types.   This is their regular stuff.  It has an open time after mixing it of 90 seconds and cures in about 15 minutes....usually....I will explain this more later.
 

 
I also made some castings using the Micro-Mark resin which has an open time of 3 minutes but cures in 40 minutes after pouring it....normally.
 
Both are the same as far as being a two part mixture 1 to 1.   Equal parts of A and B.    The Alumilite cures tan while the Micromark cures white.   There are many other colors and many other open and cure times available.  Just pick one that you are comfortable with and like after giving it a try.  I will say that short open times before pouring are tough.....you do feel rushed.   But then you will have to wait less time while it cures.
 
In the photo below below you will see that I have poured equal parts into disposable plastic shot glasses.  They are just 2 oz.   Our parts are very thin and tiny and using larger containers is problematic and wasteful.   I have a wood scrap strip to stir it up after mixing the two parts together.
 
A few points or tips worth mentioning.   Make sure it isnt very cold where you are working on this stuff.  The resin should be room temperature.  This is true of the mold you are pouring it into.  Good at room temperature or even better yet....warmed up a little.   It cuts down on the cure and demold time.  If its winter and cold I might sit the mold on the radiator for a minute or two.
 
I do gently stir both parts before pouring them into their sep. containers.   Make sure you dont agitate them to form air bubbles.  
 

 
Pouring the resin
Next I pour one part into the other shot glass.   Stir it up well but again be careful not to form bubbles.  Remember that I only have 90 seconds before it starts to really harden up.  So you must work quickly and stir for 20 seconds and then pour into your mold.
 
Pour is not the correct word....these decorations are just 1/32" thick or deep in the mold.   The design has small thin 1/32" wide elements.   You just cant pour it on top of the mold.   You have to carefully drip it into the mold as best you can.  You will no doubt over fill the mold.  But then take a wooden scrap stick and squeegee the excess to one side so it is mot a huge puddle.  The parts would be too thick otherwise and require lots of sanding and cleaning.  The photo shows the resin poured.....note how I squeegeed the excess to the bottom.  Also note the dark color in the mold.  It will cure to a light tan.
 
   
 
Also note in that same photo how the shot glass has already cured lighter and is hard.  This is less than 2 minutes after mixing both parts together.  You will also notice that the resin in the mold is not cured yet.  You see, thinner parts like this will take substantially longer to cure than the larger volume in the shot glass.  In fact,  it took a full 40 minutes for these thin fragile castings to cure in the mold.  This is true even though the resin is sold as a 15 minute cure.  As ship model parts are so small and thin they will take much much longer than they advertise.   The resin heats up when it cures and that is why warming the mold up before pouring will speed the process up somewhat.  It is also why a cold mold and a cold resin will take a very very long time to cure.  
 
So you have less time to pour knowing this but will need to wait longer to de-mold small parts.  Keep this mind when you are selecting which resin to buy.
 
After 40 minutes.....see below
 

 
Ready to remove the casting
 
The resin is very hard to the touch with a toothpick....ready to de-mold.  Forty minutes later.  Flex the mold a bit and carefully pry and work the casting out.
 
Now when the casting is released it will look messy because unless you are pouring a huge part, these little ones will over flow a bit.
So looking at the photo below, you can see the two tan castings on the bottom row (Alumilite) and the two white ones above those (Micro-Mark)
The first of each pair show how they look right out of the mold.   The flashing and excess should be removed.  I usually rub them on a flat surface over some medium fine sandpaper.  This will at least take the majority away.   It doesnt take long to do but imagine if I didnt squeegee the excess away after I initially poured the resin into the mold.  The example next to those in each pair is after I cleaned it up.
 
Above them both you will see the master which was painted gold leaf next to a dime to show the thickness and size.
 

 
The ones shown below are the MicroMark resin along with the master.....
 

 
Both brands of resin show great detail.....even fingerprints.   I cant say that either is better than the other except that I enjoyed the longer open time of the Micro-Mark resin.  But Alumilite has different resins with more open time as well.   So does Smooth-on mentioned earlier in this topic by some members.  Like the mold rubber,  this resin will not keep long.  It doesnt have a long shelf life so after 6-9 months test it in your mixing shot glasses without pouring it into a mold....just to see if it still cures.  Keep it in a cool and dry place.  Moisture is bad for resin.....put the caps on tight.

For all those who have asked the build is the CONSTITUTION c. 1812 in 1:76.8 scale.
 
Tim Igoe is working with me on the project (testing my design) and will be producing a concurrent build thread.
 
Should be fun (famous last words)
 
Sam

Allen
 
 
Thank you for your interest.
 
 
The wale is actually not parallel to the gun ports. The angle of the photos (even straight on) is skewing the perspective a bit. Also, the scale of the build (1:76.8) is an OK size but a distance of say 2" is barely 1/32" so it changes are slight. The gun ports actually rise moving fore to aft about a 1/16" of an inch as well.
 
 
The source material for the build is an acknowledged historical source(s) endorsement by a recognized and accredited organization.
 
 
The build is 9"-3/4" long, 6" high (hull) and 5"-3/4" at beam (6"-3/4") at widest point. Height when masted will be approximately 34" with a main yard (w/stunsils) at 19".
 
 
The keel in scale is only 12" deep from bottom of garboard strake.
 
 
Much work to do.............
 
 
Samuel