samueljr

Chuck
 
What about a serious study of either the Stern or Bow. Larger scale (1/4"?) highly detailed.
 
Always liked the illustrations in ZuMonfeld's book. I don't mean something like the VICTORY Bow section model not that far back. At the Bow not past the Catheads at the Stern not past the galleries. 
 
??????

Chuck
 
What about a serious study of either the Stern or Bow. Larger scale (1/4"?) highly detailed.
 
Always liked the illustrations in ZuMonfeld's book. I don't mean something like the VICTORY Bow section model not that far back. At the Bow not past the Catheads at the Stern not past the galleries. 
 
??????

Chuck
 
What about a serious study of either the Stern or Bow. Larger scale (1/4"?) highly detailed.
 
Always liked the illustrations in ZuMonfeld's book. I don't mean something like the VICTORY Bow section model not that far back. At the Bow not past the Catheads at the Stern not past the galleries. 
 
??????

ok just thinking outloud..........

Ben
 
Looks good.
 
What are your thoughts on pre-scoring the bulkheads  manually to facilitate an easier release later.
 
Any pics of your sealed keel assembly? If yes what did you use?
 
Sam

Well the clamps are off and the work on the BARGE is done until next weekend. I have another personal build I want to spend some time on and a kit design project just getting underway. Keep an eye on MSW for news on that coming soon...........
 
I taped together a couple of pieces of thin cardboard to make a small firm envelope to store the flags, inset and sweeps' artwork and the chip board laser cut piece. I'll leave them safely in the bottom of the box until they are needed.
 
Sam

Progress?.............
 
One of the things to take note of with this kit is glueing parts. Obviously the goal is to have a pristine surface ready for finish. Glue on the raw wood will affect the sealer, oil or whatever is to be used. With the small surface areas that contact in these first few steps it is imperative that enough glue is used to bond but not so much to squeeze out and cause finish issues down the road.
 
It is almost necessary to let the first (almost transparent) coat of glue to seal the char providing  suitable surface(s) to bind. The second coat is just as thin. Tooth pics were used as spreaders and good old fashioned clothespins were the right depth and more importantly the best tension/pressure to act as clamps.
 
I have been using Titebond (yellow) as my primary glue with just dots of a medium CA to hold pieces in place until the yellow sets up.

Good morning all
 
Thanks to everyone so far who has checked and wished well so far.
 
Bob - nice job on HALIFAX 
Thanks to Nils, Jason, Dan, Mike, Steve
Grant - I'll PM you on my other project
 
Anyway, the build is underway. 
 
The thing that is to be stressed continuously with this build/kit is patience. Care must be taken i handling the pieces and the builder should always read the directions thoroughly before proceeding. Unlike a lot of kits this is definitely a  "manual" build. In that I mean the builder has to read the manual. Just a cursory  read is not sufficient. The plans are supplemental to the manual. Chuck has provided a very clear process that will produce a beautiful build.
 
I've released the first series of parts and removed the char as directed. The keel assembly needs to be beveled and then I can put it together. That will be later this weekend.

I've only submitted a couple of logs on MSW and they've been more progress than build logs in that It has been pics of where I'm at and not necessarily how I got there. I'm going to try to make this a little more comprehensive so here goes..........
 
The BARGE arrived to my house in Western New York from Syren's offices in New Jersey in about 4 days. Cant beat that. The box was much smaller than I anticipated only being about 15"x4"x6".
 
I opened it to find everything neatly and securely placed and and well packaged.  Included are two plan sheets 18"x24" at a scale of 1:1. The manual is a 3 part PDF download from Syren's website that I had printed out and spiral bound at Office Max. I opted to print it in B&W, after binding it was $12.99. The same production in color would have run close to $60 so B&W it is.
 
The parts are all extremely well cut and appear to be very easy to release. What is surprising is the delicate feel of the parts. A lot of the sheets are only 1/32" so patience and care must be shown in handling. One thing that caught my eye was how pretty the cherry wood is even unfinished. The color is consistent and the grain is very attractive. With a finish coat or oil on it it should be beautiful.
 
The flags provided are sharp and detailed as are the inlays for the BARGE and the markings for the oars. 
 
The details of the 7 castings included are crisp and need virtually no remedial work prior to finish.
 
As far as unboxings go this was pretty uneventful. The quality of all included are what has come to be expected from Syren Ship Model Company - perfect.

Kurt
 
Making a pot of coffee - may not sleep tonight...............
 
Sam

Well the clamps are off and the work on the BARGE is done until next weekend. I have another personal build I want to spend some time on and a kit design project just getting underway. Keep an eye on MSW for news on that coming soon...........
 
I taped together a couple of pieces of thin cardboard to make a small firm envelope to store the flags, inset and sweeps' artwork and the chip board laser cut piece. I'll leave them safely in the bottom of the box until they are needed.
 
Sam

Progress?.............
 
One of the things to take note of with this kit is glueing parts. Obviously the goal is to have a pristine surface ready for finish. Glue on the raw wood will affect the sealer, oil or whatever is to be used. With the small surface areas that contact in these first few steps it is imperative that enough glue is used to bond but not so much to squeeze out and cause finish issues down the road.
 
It is almost necessary to let the first (almost transparent) coat of glue to seal the char providing  suitable surface(s) to bind. The second coat is just as thin. Tooth pics were used as spreaders and good old fashioned clothespins were the right depth and more importantly the best tension/pressure to act as clamps.
 
I have been using Titebond (yellow) as my primary glue with just dots of a medium CA to hold pieces in place until the yellow sets up.

Boy am I having a hard time with this thread................
 
One more pic

Good morning all
 
Thanks to everyone so far who has checked and wished well so far.
 
Bob - nice job on HALIFAX 
Thanks to Nils, Jason, Dan, Mike, Steve
Grant - I'll PM you on my other project
 
Anyway, the build is underway. 
 
The thing that is to be stressed continuously with this build/kit is patience. Care must be taken i handling the pieces and the builder should always read the directions thoroughly before proceeding. Unlike a lot of kits this is definitely a  "manual" build. In that I mean the builder has to read the manual. Just a cursory  read is not sufficient. The plans are supplemental to the manual. Chuck has provided a very clear process that will produce a beautiful build.
 
I've released the first series of parts and removed the char as directed. The keel assembly needs to be beveled and then I can put it together. That will be later this weekend.

Ben,
 
I'll be following you - literally ...........
 
Sam

Well the clamps are off and the work on the BARGE is done until next weekend. I have another personal build I want to spend some time on and a kit design project just getting underway. Keep an eye on MSW for news on that coming soon...........
 
I taped together a couple of pieces of thin cardboard to make a small firm envelope to store the flags, inset and sweeps' artwork and the chip board laser cut piece. I'll leave them safely in the bottom of the box until they are needed.
 
Sam

Progress?.............
 
One of the things to take note of with this kit is glueing parts. Obviously the goal is to have a pristine surface ready for finish. Glue on the raw wood will affect the sealer, oil or whatever is to be used. With the small surface areas that contact in these first few steps it is imperative that enough glue is used to bond but not so much to squeeze out and cause finish issues down the road.
 
It is almost necessary to let the first (almost transparent) coat of glue to seal the char providing  suitable surface(s) to bind. The second coat is just as thin. Tooth pics were used as spreaders and good old fashioned clothespins were the right depth and more importantly the best tension/pressure to act as clamps.
 
I have been using Titebond (yellow) as my primary glue with just dots of a medium CA to hold pieces in place until the yellow sets up.

Boy am I having a hard time with this thread................
 
One more pic

Good morning all
 
Thanks to everyone so far who has checked and wished well so far.
 
Bob - nice job on HALIFAX 
Thanks to Nils, Jason, Dan, Mike, Steve
Grant - I'll PM you on my other project
 
Anyway, the build is underway. 
 
The thing that is to be stressed continuously with this build/kit is patience. Care must be taken i handling the pieces and the builder should always read the directions thoroughly before proceeding. Unlike a lot of kits this is definitely a  "manual" build. In that I mean the builder has to read the manual. Just a cursory  read is not sufficient. The plans are supplemental to the manual. Chuck has provided a very clear process that will produce a beautiful build.
 
I've released the first series of parts and removed the char as directed. The keel assembly needs to be beveled and then I can put it together. That will be later this weekend.

Well the clamps are off and the work on the BARGE is done until next weekend. I have another personal build I want to spend some time on and a kit design project just getting underway. Keep an eye on MSW for news on that coming soon...........
 
I taped together a couple of pieces of thin cardboard to make a small firm envelope to store the flags, inset and sweeps' artwork and the chip board laser cut piece. I'll leave them safely in the bottom of the box until they are needed.
 
Sam

Progress?.............
 
One of the things to take note of with this kit is glueing parts. Obviously the goal is to have a pristine surface ready for finish. Glue on the raw wood will affect the sealer, oil or whatever is to be used. With the small surface areas that contact in these first few steps it is imperative that enough glue is used to bond but not so much to squeeze out and cause finish issues down the road.
 
It is almost necessary to let the first (almost transparent) coat of glue to seal the char providing  suitable surface(s) to bind. The second coat is just as thin. Tooth pics were used as spreaders and good old fashioned clothespins were the right depth and more importantly the best tension/pressure to act as clamps.
 
I have been using Titebond (yellow) as my primary glue with just dots of a medium CA to hold pieces in place until the yellow sets up.