egkb

Hi all,
Just a quick update. I didn't manage much today, just the small rail that runs along the gunports. I put it on as a single piece and then removed the sections that passed over the gunports. Just incase anyone is wondering, no l didn't use pins as, in this case, the wood was too thin. I used mini bulldog clips which proved to be the right tool for the job.
Best wishes as always. 
The Lazy Saint. 

8

Then installing...

Four spars completed  place next to thier plastic counterparts.
 
Sorry for the photo quality - I had my cam phone on the wrong setting hence being out of focus.
 
OC.

Hi all,
Here l have fitted the main wale, l have left the pins in for you to see. Don't push them all the way in as they are the Devils own work to get out, as you will find out. I say that because that is what will happen until you get used to the pressure required. 
My next task, l think, will be decking and inner bulwark planking. 
Best wishes as always, 
The Lazy Saint. 

Hi all,
Thanks for the tip Jörgan, when l am ready to tackle an oiled/varnished ship l will use your method.
I have just completed my gun battery. They are as close to identical as l could make them, l hope they pass the captain's inspection when they are on board.
Best wishes as always. 
The Lazy Saint. 

3

Hey There Jason .. Looks amazing As Usual !!
 
All The Very Best Mate
 
Eamonn

I'm sorry to read of your situation, Mark. I hope that things will improve for you sooner rather than later. In the meantime, my best wishes to you.

Shrouds, ratlines and stays completed to all masts. I'm very glad the ratlines are finished. Now I can start fitting yards and their tackle.
Cheers, David

Hi all,
And thanks all for the encouraging words. Thanks also Tony for your invaluable advice/tips, l really appreciate it.
I have just completed my 2nd planking and l am quite happy. It is considerably better than my Ballahoo, but not, l fear, good enough for oil/varnish as Jörgan suggested. I do aspire to that standard, but will have to practice more. Perhaps net time.
I have to say that one of the best tools l have, l find, is my pin pusher coupled with very fine pins. I found it awkward at first as l lacked the dexterity required but as the build has progressed l have learnt and now find it quick and easy to use.
Best wishes as always. 
The Lazy Saint 

Just had the guys over for a nice Saturday get-together at my shop.  Mike brought his Winnie.    Side by side siblings....Mike's is in the front and is Boxwood.  Mine is Yellow cedar and in the background.  I just took these with my cell phone but here you go.   Dropped my camera so its what I need to use until I get a new one.  

And also...here is a look (I know you guys are getting bored of seeing the figurehead at this point) at the figurehead and our latest experiment.  This is another resin casting but I am experimenting with trying to cast them in a tan color that already looks like wood.  This is a very very hard thing to do with success.   But this figurehead has not been painted or touched up.  This is the color right out of the package.  I may go with it as its not perfect but very close.  You guys can just do a light brushing with some weathering powders if you want it more golden or less tan.  It depends on what wood you are building the model with.  I am so happy with the results.
 

Thanks for looking in Alan, Chris's new crop of models do look really good, I loved his Pegasus designed  kit marketed by Amati, one of my favourite models.
 I'm pleased if anyone takes an interest in my build Alan, and as Kurt also has this kit I guess he's interested in my approach.
One of the great aspects of MSW is the sharing of information, and the way members give of their experience, I've learned such a lot  from others on here,  and I hope you find it as  beneficial as I have.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.
 

Good day all,    I actually managed to get a bit more done on the pearl today  (dont faint)   I got the plastic spar/sail assemblies out  including the wood dowels I have,  first I maked the length  compared to the plastic ones  then I cut to length,  next I marked each end from the center where the tapper starts, then I used to scraping tool I have to scrape away the dowel till I reached close on the shape I was after, this was followed up with a gentle sanding till it was how I wanted it.
So an hours work and one more spar completed minus the fittings.
 
OC.

Hi all,
 
Fingers crossed I will un cross my fingeres as they were really saw being crossed  - so with un - crossed fingeres I will continue with my build  - fingeres crossed (or not as the case may be)  Anyway.......  I intend to work on the remaing spars  as  to be honest I do not have the room to fully set up the table with all my bits and pieces tool and the like, so I will just get out what I need from my little store and work on shaping the spars - that way I will be able to then get rid of the pre molded plastic spars/sails  and create some space  - fingers crossed  (sorry)
 
Thank you from the bottom of my crossed fingers for all the interest - wishes and likes.
 
OC.

Testing with temporary materials

sorry to hear you've been down with your illness..........glad your feeling better!   the anchors look great!  

It's been a while, been pretty sick. 
Well, I worked on those anchors. Filled in the holes and gaps with CA glue and filings from the thicker anchor. Primed them for painting. Made the iron rings and served them. Painted them with flat black enamel. I just couldn't use the metal stocks. Made them out of wood.. Made the iron bands from the black pinstripe tape provided in the kit.  They seemed to turn out pretty good. Shaping the bouys now. Will make them out of wood.
 
Jesse 

Post 14
Capping/Drift Rail (Part46)
Much as I liked the idea of the pre marked capping rails, when I came to fit them they just looked too broad to my eye. This would have been exacerbated by my desire to add even a very thin edging strip with a profile moulding cut into it.

1820
The provided strip measures 4.5mm wide which equates to 11.3". The scantlings table in the Alert book gives the Drift rail width of 7½" which equates to 3mm at scale.
I understand the over-scale width maybe a necessary simplification to incorporate the cut outs for the timberheads etc; and ease construction, but I have decided to go another route.
I recall that I had the same issue with the Pegasus kit where the Drift rails also had to be reduced in width.

1806(2)
For Alert I used Pear wood strip of 3x1mm which is a perfect fit for the drift rails, and add a  moulding to the outside edge.

1812(2)
The provided rails may come in to use  as a template to mark the cut out positions but for the dedicated kit basher they aren't really necessary as the positions are clearly marked on the plans.
 
New Paint job.
I wasn't really happy with the shade of blue I first painted the topsides with. On reflection it looked too bright, somehow at odds with the red internal scheme, perhaps too modern looking. These things are hard to pin down.
The revised scheme is based on Humbrol  Matt 96 which is RAF Blue. At a pinch I think you could get away with this on its own, it has a muted dusky blue/grey tone.

1800(2)
However, I thought it needed  making slightly paler and a tad brighter. To achieve this I added white paint by degrees, testing each sample, until I  arrived at the final shade I was happy with.

1811

1816
That's it for the outboard work for the present.
To reach this point has taken some seven weeks of fairly regular work time. Amusing to think how many models Chris Watton has completed in this time, I think he must have an army of Elves down in the Forest of Dean working night shifts.
 
I will now attend to planking the deck before I begin tinkering with the clinkering on the lower hull.
 
B.E.
16/08/2019
 
 

The trial production of ALERT is still under way, which is slower than expected. Now let's show you the design process of the standard British ship's boats. This component is made by 3D printing.

I enjoy the build a lot! In the past i was a person that gave up on things pretty fast because i encountered to many problems, but this hobby
is teaching me patience and selfesteem. Wonderful! 🎇
I'm so happy that i rediscovered the hobby again. I think that i wasn't ready for it a few years ago. Now it's time to move on with it, and to enjoy 
the process it's given me.
 
Little personal sidenote

I used some steel wol and sandpaper to rough the paint a bit up. I don't like the clean look of a freshly painted ship.
It's needs to be a bit old and scruffy ;). The pictures don't capture it just right. In real life it looks much better.
I need to borrow the camera of a friend of mine so i can photograph the details better.
 

Finished al the painting of the hull! That's a nice milestone for now
Especially the bottom of the yellow strip was difficult for me. I didn't get it perfect in my eyes with just the hand.
So i used masking tape and that made a lot of difference. Now it's okay to me.
The flashy spots on the copper plates are from the dremel. I have to clean the plates once more so everything can age simultaneously.





 

I used square mini files or jeweller's files for the small square ports. They come very cheaply in sets of six or so on eBay, Amazon etc. You can also make your own square punches for smaller squares (e.g. on the windlass) by squaring off nails. Then there's the option of making your own mini-chisels 1mm or so in size using allen keys and suchlike. There's lots of advice on the web on how to do this.
 
Tony

Hi all.
Thanks for the kind words Edward.
Five planks in and the Gunports + Oarports have been cut. They will have to be done again when the internal planks are fitted but after my experience with the Ballahoo l know it is easier to carve one layer of planking at a time, rather than two.
I can hear the purists among you shaking your heads and tutting about my "Round" Oarports, please forgive me but cutting "Square" holes that small (and making them look good) is beyond me.
Best wishes as always. 
The Lazy Saint.