Wintergreen

Finally, the shipwright has returned. Man, that was a long hiatus.
Anyhow, the board shown in the last post's picture has ben transformed to the third and fourth coamings for deck hatches/openings.
While contemplating the next step I had some fun and by coincidence that fun also ansered my next question.
It is the question about mast partners. As can be seen from the book, there is blocking to support the mast below deck planks.
So, the next step will be to do some dummy masts and have them standing as they should according to plans. After that it is on the covering boards and decking.
 
 

I did forget the banana for size, or the match, or the coin. Ah well, the coamings are 12mm or a ½" high, corresponding to a real world measurement of 300mm above decking. Deck planks are 60mm thick by 120 mm wide.



On another note, during the build this far I have been thinking about size and scale. This build is in 1:30 (which is close to 3/8 scale). The hull is about 800 mm long.
And I have pondered over my abilities for joining pieces of wood and what that would be for the coming of the 18th century ships I have in mind. After some thought I found out that the size of a manowar in 1:64 or a smaller ship in 1:48 will have the same dimensions as what I am building now...
That is because these ships timbers were larger overall on these ships. Of course this is not entirely true, more of an approximation. Huge relief though.
So, the challenges I face now, will be the same later down the line. Interesting.
 
Til next time - ta! 
 
 

Finally, the shipwright has returned. Man, that was a long hiatus.
Anyhow, the board shown in the last post's picture has ben transformed to the third and fourth coamings for deck hatches/openings.
While contemplating the next step I had some fun and by coincidence that fun also ansered my next question.
It is the question about mast partners. As can be seen from the book, there is blocking to support the mast below deck planks.
So, the next step will be to do some dummy masts and have them standing as they should according to plans. After that it is on the covering boards and decking.
 
 

I did forget the banana for size, or the match, or the coin. Ah well, the coamings are 12mm or a ½" high, corresponding to a real world measurement of 300mm above decking. Deck planks are 60mm thick by 120 mm wide.



On another note, during the build this far I have been thinking about size and scale. This build is in 1:30 (which is close to 3/8 scale). The hull is about 800 mm long.
And I have pondered over my abilities for joining pieces of wood and what that would be for the coming of the 18th century ships I have in mind. After some thought I found out that the size of a manowar in 1:64 or a smaller ship in 1:48 will have the same dimensions as what I am building now...
That is because these ships timbers were larger overall on these ships. Of course this is not entirely true, more of an approximation. Huge relief though.
So, the challenges I face now, will be the same later down the line. Interesting.
 
Til next time - ta! 
 
 

Finally, the shipwright has returned. Man, that was a long hiatus.
Anyhow, the board shown in the last post's picture has ben transformed to the third and fourth coamings for deck hatches/openings.
While contemplating the next step I had some fun and by coincidence that fun also ansered my next question.
It is the question about mast partners. As can be seen from the book, there is blocking to support the mast below deck planks.
So, the next step will be to do some dummy masts and have them standing as they should according to plans. After that it is on the covering boards and decking.
 
 

I did forget the banana for size, or the match, or the coin. Ah well, the coamings are 12mm or a ½" high, corresponding to a real world measurement of 300mm above decking. Deck planks are 60mm thick by 120 mm wide.



On another note, during the build this far I have been thinking about size and scale. This build is in 1:30 (which is close to 3/8 scale). The hull is about 800 mm long.
And I have pondered over my abilities for joining pieces of wood and what that would be for the coming of the 18th century ships I have in mind. After some thought I found out that the size of a manowar in 1:64 or a smaller ship in 1:48 will have the same dimensions as what I am building now...
That is because these ships timbers were larger overall on these ships. Of course this is not entirely true, more of an approximation. Huge relief though.
So, the challenges I face now, will be the same later down the line. Interesting.
 
Til next time - ta! 
 
 

I got some Seahorse 3D printed blocks from ModelNet on eBay in the post today . see https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165760407676
I am really pleased, they are very good.
Did not like the dark brown they are printed, so painted it to be more like boxwood, not quite the right colour yet, but not bad.
They could maybe do with a quick sand down as well.
But from a normal viewing distance you may not see the print lines
 

 
it looks worse from some angles
 

 
here are a couple very close up, warts and all.
 

 

 
I have to remember that nobody would ever see this kind of detail when viewing the model.
 
Tim
 

To be fair they have been very generous with their time and letting me visit the Yard occasionally, and very supportive. Couldn't do it without that access, for sure. The timber supply was serendipitous - we had a new drive to the house build through a stand of shelter belt trees we planted when we moved here in 1998. I have enough drying for many more builds yet!

Nice progress, Andy, and planning is part of the build process be it minimum or extensive. I would be intimidated as all get-out if I had those ship builders watching my every move, so for that reason alone, I understand your determination for the utmost accuracy.
 
I remember that the wood for this build came off your property, but I didn't realize it was from your own plantings. Very cool.
 
Gary    

Andy, I had to backtrack you build log because suddenly I was all confused of version numbers on the hull(s). Clever approach though.
And I also read through your (not so) inane mamble ramblings about planking, putting my own non-scientific way of planking to shame. I have no doubt that the end result will be very pleasing!
My problem with planning is that I have an almost pathological aversion to too much pre-planning. In my work profession I do big, complex datasystem updates which needs to be planned down to the very minute detail, and I do not bring that way into my shop. As an example, for a job that takes 1-3 hrs when executed (failing is not an option) we spend about 40-80 hrs planning. But that is only partially why I don't do much drawings and stuff. When I build something, be it a new kitchen table with benches, or a smart storage box for my 1:1 sailboat, the only drawing I have is usually a wrinkled paper with a rudimentary skiss and some measurements. The rest I make up as I go. 
Of course I know the con's of such an approach and I am glad not all are like me, so we actually can learn something from those (like you) that takes a fair bit of time to plan and explain.
 
Keep it up!

Well it certainly doesn't show in Atlantica Hakan! Your work sounds very exacting, so I understand where you are coming from when it comes to relaxing in the workshop, but your joinery is so skilled, you are clearly a very talented woodworker.
I do spend ages researching - maybe because this build is all about absolute fidelity to the original - it will be the only model of the original as she was built, so I want to do my due diligence. I have some experts looking over my shoulder! 
This does mean slow progress, especially as I am far from expert myself! Once the planking is done, it should all speed up a bit. 

Andy, I had to backtrack you build log because suddenly I was all confused of version numbers on the hull(s). Clever approach though.
And I also read through your (not so) inane mamble ramblings about planking, putting my own non-scientific way of planking to shame. I have no doubt that the end result will be very pleasing!
My problem with planning is that I have an almost pathological aversion to too much pre-planning. In my work profession I do big, complex datasystem updates which needs to be planned down to the very minute detail, and I do not bring that way into my shop. As an example, for a job that takes 1-3 hrs when executed (failing is not an option) we spend about 40-80 hrs planning. But that is only partially why I don't do much drawings and stuff. When I build something, be it a new kitchen table with benches, or a smart storage box for my 1:1 sailboat, the only drawing I have is usually a wrinkled paper with a rudimentary skiss and some measurements. The rest I make up as I go. 
Of course I know the con's of such an approach and I am glad not all are like me, so we actually can learn something from those (like you) that takes a fair bit of time to plan and explain.
 
Keep it up!

Andy, I had to backtrack you build log because suddenly I was all confused of version numbers on the hull(s). Clever approach though.
And I also read through your (not so) inane mamble ramblings about planking, putting my own non-scientific way of planking to shame. I have no doubt that the end result will be very pleasing!
My problem with planning is that I have an almost pathological aversion to too much pre-planning. In my work profession I do big, complex datasystem updates which needs to be planned down to the very minute detail, and I do not bring that way into my shop. As an example, for a job that takes 1-3 hrs when executed (failing is not an option) we spend about 40-80 hrs planning. But that is only partially why I don't do much drawings and stuff. When I build something, be it a new kitchen table with benches, or a smart storage box for my 1:1 sailboat, the only drawing I have is usually a wrinkled paper with a rudimentary skiss and some measurements. The rest I make up as I go. 
Of course I know the con's of such an approach and I am glad not all are like me, so we actually can learn something from those (like you) that takes a fair bit of time to plan and explain.
 
Keep it up!

Andy, I had to backtrack you build log because suddenly I was all confused of version numbers on the hull(s). Clever approach though.
And I also read through your (not so) inane mamble ramblings about planking, putting my own non-scientific way of planking to shame. I have no doubt that the end result will be very pleasing!
My problem with planning is that I have an almost pathological aversion to too much pre-planning. In my work profession I do big, complex datasystem updates which needs to be planned down to the very minute detail, and I do not bring that way into my shop. As an example, for a job that takes 1-3 hrs when executed (failing is not an option) we spend about 40-80 hrs planning. But that is only partially why I don't do much drawings and stuff. When I build something, be it a new kitchen table with benches, or a smart storage box for my 1:1 sailboat, the only drawing I have is usually a wrinkled paper with a rudimentary skiss and some measurements. The rest I make up as I go. 
Of course I know the con's of such an approach and I am glad not all are like me, so we actually can learn something from those (like you) that takes a fair bit of time to plan and explain.
 
Keep it up!

Andy, I had to backtrack you build log because suddenly I was all confused of version numbers on the hull(s). Clever approach though.
And I also read through your (not so) inane mamble ramblings about planking, putting my own non-scientific way of planking to shame. I have no doubt that the end result will be very pleasing!
My problem with planning is that I have an almost pathological aversion to too much pre-planning. In my work profession I do big, complex datasystem updates which needs to be planned down to the very minute detail, and I do not bring that way into my shop. As an example, for a job that takes 1-3 hrs when executed (failing is not an option) we spend about 40-80 hrs planning. But that is only partially why I don't do much drawings and stuff. When I build something, be it a new kitchen table with benches, or a smart storage box for my 1:1 sailboat, the only drawing I have is usually a wrinkled paper with a rudimentary skiss and some measurements. The rest I make up as I go. 
Of course I know the con's of such an approach and I am glad not all are like me, so we actually can learn something from those (like you) that takes a fair bit of time to plan and explain.
 
Keep it up!

I continue in a slow pace. A few hours here and there.
The masts got rigged separately and finished as far as possible off the ship.

Then the mast where stepped onto the ship. I'm now working on belaying the lines of the running rigging.

More ramblings...
Planking - setting out the battens.
I’ve set virtual ‘battens’ every three planks – as the Yard did and set a width for the garboard and top five planks at each of six frames down the length of the boat. Then added the positions/decisions determined in the last post (magic line) we end up with the following lines, this on Vigilance I.


 
I’ve flipped this photo to allow a rough comparison view, (the hogging is now obvious even if the angle is not quite right!). Maybe run of planking in the stern quarters is a tad wider, but it’s marginal.
 
 
Designing the planking under the elliptical counter is challenging and required a bit of head scratching, as discussed in the previous posting.
The planking twists as it passes aft under the counter, particularly the sheer strake which has a severe twist of almost 90° for the last few feet. It requires some very creative clamping. The inside face is bevelled flat to provide a surface which is level to the cover boards.

Then we know plank 13 terminates at the top of the sternpost centreline as below; so planks 14 to 20 terminate along the sheer from the centreline back to the sheer strake along the counter sheer line.
 

Mapped all this int CAD to try and get something to transfer key points onto the boat.

Care needs to be taken that the sheerstrake is not allowed to terminate too far forward (as it would like to do as it twists) as this would expand the area for plank 14-20 to fill.
Triangulating from the plan view, and profile view onto the sectional at frame 34 it's possible to plot how the planking passes under the counter over frames 36-40. It will need fairing as we go, but at least it is a rough guide to work with. I’m grateful to Stirling’s Shipyard Manager, Richard, who helped with some useful reflections on how they did this. There’s no textbooks or tutorials on counter planking so no-one knows how this was done by Uphams. Presumably just passed down from one generation to another.
After a little tweaking we have a satisfactory set of lines.
Then copied all these lines onto the profile framing plan of Vigilance II so that I can plank both hulls together.

Stock planking is from timber we planted in 2000, and since thinned. One is maple, which is pale, hard and fine grained. The other is poplar, which is faster growing, but still very clean, straight grained and stable. Both have been seasoned for 4 years and dried in stock lengths for a further year inside. They measure 11° on the moisture meter.
They were cut into stock size on the band saw, then cut to size on the micromark table saw before thicknessing down to 1.9mm and 2.15mm.

So now over to the model to lay some planks on the frames to test the plan we’ve come up with before finalising it. ('At last!' I hear you all say...)
Started by transferring the lines using a combination of direct measurements with the dividers, and then filling between the batten lines with tick marks in the usual way.


The garboard is dry fitted first, then the first few up over the deadwoods to establish the lines.

Nothing glued yet, but tick marks at the batten points can then be checked for fairness. It’s looking OK at this point, but very slow progress. This image is of Vigilance II, which is the easier of the pair, and I can copy the planks to make a second set which can be used for Vigilance I which is sitting in the background. It's been a long time coming, but some real progress at last.
All for now!
 
 

The fleet is lined up. The hulls are from Vigilances planking - larch I think, and I raided the kitchen drawer for bamboo skewers for the masts soaked in thin CA glue for more strength. 


Away for a few days then back onto the 'real' build.

It's a good question Håkan - as with everything, it depends on the quality - they few I have bought are all from well known high quality tool makers, and use the same materials as their bigger relatives.
Of course they are only useful for tasks at scale, like scoring the rabbet - and the small palm planes I have are simply indispensbile to those fine shavings on small stock. Do I really need them? Probably not, but don't tell the Admiral!
Thanks Roger!

Thanks Mark; its based on the old Martin 'Orchestra Model', with sitka spruce soundboard and rosewood sides and back. Its a great project, and I'm looking forward to hearing it played.
Thanks for the likes etc, especially from @Wintergreen - great to hear from you Hakan; my very best wishes to you.
I am laying down a preparatory shellac bedding for french polishing the guitar, and then doing a load of sundry pre-winter jobs before getting back to the planking on Vigilance.
All for now.

So, just another quick update...
Shipwright season has officially started in the Wintergreen residence. Finally! Almost to the day, nine months since my last actual progress report...
A lot of other duties had higher priorities. It's been a crazy fall around here. 
I have also treated myself with the Proxxon disc sander and a new shopwac that doesn't sound like a 747 taking off (it's a Bosch 20 liter something, with a 220 outlet on it, so single switch operation now with sander attached).
 
Oh! And there is a new rule in the shop as well... Put. The. Tools. Back. Where. They. Belong. Period.
(NOT just drop them where you last used them, halfwit, because that place, no matter how obvious, is cleared from your memory as soon as you turn your back to it.)
 
Cheers!

Things have been moving ahead a little faster than I expected as most of the corrections on deck have now been made, so I've been able to concentrate more on the standing rigging.  I'm now back to the main mast and currently working on the royal rigging, so almost finished there. You can also see additional coils hanging over the side indicating that the lower halliard fittings are in and ready for the yards.
 
The fore spreaders are also now fitted. I always fit the spreaders after the rigging is done, as the very slightest alteration in angle of any of the upper backstays throws the spreader alignment off, so better to fit the spreader to the actual rigging than the other way around.
 
You will also see a clothes peg hanging on the main topmast stay near the deck. This is as a result of a self-inflicted disaster when I tried to trim a loose end down near the foremast base and slipped, slicing neatly through one leg of the stay! 🥵🥵🥵 I think it will be OK but will see tomorrow when I try to complete the repair.
 
John
 

Keith, John, I'm glad to find a borthers in arms with the same kind of malfunction 😄 
But I guess there are even more of us. Maybe we should schedule a group session with Dr Per... hmm... food for thought.
My anticipation is that by the time we hit the festive season in a couple of weeks, my time in the shop as well as my inspiration will level up.
As for the moment, I am slowly picking up the tools to trigger that nerve. Quite tired and worn at the moment.
 
Cheers!

So, just another quick update...
Shipwright season has officially started in the Wintergreen residence. Finally! Almost to the day, nine months since my last actual progress report...
A lot of other duties had higher priorities. It's been a crazy fall around here. 
I have also treated myself with the Proxxon disc sander and a new shopwac that doesn't sound like a 747 taking off (it's a Bosch 20 liter something, with a 220 outlet on it, so single switch operation now with sander attached).
 
Oh! And there is a new rule in the shop as well... Put. The. Tools. Back. Where. They. Belong. Period.
(NOT just drop them where you last used them, halfwit, because that place, no matter how obvious, is cleared from your memory as soon as you turn your back to it.)
 
Cheers!

+1 for paint. (you've left your previous builds partly unpainted so your ability to plank a hull is evident)
Plus, the lovely hull construction is saved with all the photos you've treated us with.

Oh! And it just struck me Keith, the Admiral and I were down in your neck of the woods over Bonfire weekend! More precise in Firle. It was a blast so we decided right awayt that we'll be back next year. We have an auntie that lives in Firle so we hung out with the locals.
 
Keep it up!

I am listening......🙂

+1 for paint. (you've left your previous builds partly unpainted so your ability to plank a hull is evident)
Plus, the lovely hull construction is saved with all the photos you've treated us with.

Oh! And it just struck me Keith, the Admiral and I were down in your neck of the woods over Bonfire weekend! More precise in Firle. It was a blast so we decided right awayt that we'll be back next year. We have an auntie that lives in Firle so we hung out with the locals.
 
Keep it up!

Keith, John, I'm glad to find a borthers in arms with the same kind of malfunction 😄 
But I guess there are even more of us. Maybe we should schedule a group session with Dr Per... hmm... food for thought.
My anticipation is that by the time we hit the festive season in a couple of weeks, my time in the shop as well as my inspiration will level up.
As for the moment, I am slowly picking up the tools to trigger that nerve. Quite tired and worn at the moment.
 
Cheers!