Wintergreen

Hah! Maury, have you not noticed how carefully the photos are framed and cropped?

It's good to see you back, Sam, even if just for a bit.  Work is hell.. 
 
Ken, I think the Microscale needs a topic of it's own out there.  I did some Googling and this might be perfect for many of us.
 
 
These pictures are some of "test" shots to sort things out.
 
The stern now has it's upper molding and the rest planked in ebony.  It still needs more sanding  
 
The main stern carving is a "bad" carving blank which is hitting the scrap box as it's served it's purpose.  I stuck it on with some double sided tape for position and appearance.  I noted that it's too low and needs to be higher to look right.  The real carving is on the workbench and slowly being attacked with various implements of construction and destruction.    I think it's a perspective issue when I stuck it on.  The transom being angled, it looks low when viewed head on.  
 
The taffrail... this one's a headache.  I've changed the drawing to reflect where this one doesn't quite fit and also to lengthen the "legs".  I originally designed it as a one piece but the legs are entirely cross-grain which weakens things (I think I've broken about 5 at this point while cleaning off the char). The other is an appearance  that I'm not happy with.  The cross-grain on the legs just looks dirty no matter how much it's sanded/scraped.  I even cut one in half and the cut area looks "dirty".   Anyway, I've reworked it so it's made of three pieces.. a crosspiece and two legs with the grain going in the proper direction.  I hope to cut another later today or tomorrow.
 
I'm noticing that things are quite perfect still in the dimension area but not much I can do at point, but I'll sort it out and tweak as best I can.  I'm about 1/32" (2") off on the level, left-to-right where the transom meets the counter.  And it's off about the same on witdth.  One side is just a bit wider at the top.   I'm thinking that the beams shifted slightly when I was reconstructing this area.  Nothing serious but I thought I'd point it out.
 
I do need to flip this beast over and plank the inside of the transom area above the deck beam so I can sand it down and shape before fitting the taffrail.  
 
I'm thinking, right now, the taffrail will be un-adorned.  I tried carving some acanthus leaves for this area, but... I need a lot more practice for some thing that tiny. I keep at it as there's no rush on the carvings.
 

 
Comments and critiques are always welcomed and yes, this is to be continued.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 144 – Monkey Rail 2
 
Happy Valentines Day, everyone.
 
After making and polishing the rail stanchions holes were measured out and drilled in the center of the main rail and in most cases down into the toptimbers below.  The stanchions were then inserted into the holes for a depth check.  A single rail section for each side was then curved to match the poop profile.  The stanchions were then removed from their holes and threaded on to the rail in order.  The next picture shows the next step – epoxy gluing the stanchions into their holes.
 

 
The end of the rail was first inserted into the inverted U bracket at the stern.  All of the stanchions were then inserted into their holes, then lifted for gluing starting at the stern.  The clamps in the above picture are lightly pressing the stanchions down where needed until the epoxy sets.  The next picture shows the last stanchion on the starboard side being glued. 
 

 
The rail was crimped in the aft stanchion then touched with a drop of CA glue.  The others are free to move along the rail at this stage.  The forward end of the rail was bent to the athwartship direction at the foremost stanchion as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The stanchions along the breast beam were then glued into place with the rails inserted.  In the picture above, the glue has dried and a section of stair rail is being fitted into the lower ball on one of the stanchions at the top of the stair.  The next picture shows the stanchions loosely in place on the port side.
 

 
In this picture the port rail has been curved to shape and is ready for installation.  The last two pictures show the completed monkey rail.
 

 

 
This last picture was taken before final straightening of the stanchions on the near side.  Once everything was adjusted the top balls were crimped with pliers to hold them in place.  The rail is, of course, quite exposed and susceptible to damage by careless leaning or bumping.  I am trying to sensitize myself to this new problem.  The days of turning the model over and shaking it to remove debris are over.
 
 
Ed

Build part 33
 
The deck planking continues, I am closing in on the much shorter planks so they ought to go a little more quickly. I am also getting more familiar with the bending of the square planks now, there is no substitute for practice.
 
I set up a better method than the original almost free form method. I am now using a basic french curve type former that allows for a far more controlled bend. a scrap of redwood and some nylon buttons held on a short piece of pine.
 

 
Ready to split.
 
 
 
The three longest planks are now glued so the pace should pick up a bit now. The minor adjustments to the split planks are very easy to make now with the new bending jig. This is done after I have scraped in the rebate.
 

 
I am setting the notches individually in pairs as I move toward the mast the king plank is not fixed and can be lifted off the make the notches which make life a little easier that doing it on the hull.
 

 
Michael
 
 

Thank you fellows for likes and comments.
 
Ed, the clamps work really well with good power. Cred to you for initially posting about tool making in your Naiad log.
 
The steambox, however crude in appearance, works really well. I have it on the floor so I dont have to bother about the condensation dripping allover. The rubber bands keep the lid tight to the box so the steam only can escape through the 10mm hole in the far side. The oak planks get so soft so that I have to watch out for them not bending too tight round the uprights. Which can be spotted in some of the pics...
The kettle takes 3 liters while I usually only fill it to half in order to save boiling time.
Thanks for asking, Ed.
 
Michael, no worries. Its just a straight forward box that anyone would've come up with. A down-scaled version of the real deal.

Thank you fellows for likes and comments.
 
Ed, the clamps work really well with good power. Cred to you for initially posting about tool making in your Naiad log.
 
The steambox, however crude in appearance, works really well. I have it on the floor so I dont have to bother about the condensation dripping allover. The rubber bands keep the lid tight to the box so the steam only can escape through the 10mm hole in the far side. The oak planks get so soft so that I have to watch out for them not bending too tight round the uprights. Which can be spotted in some of the pics...
The kettle takes 3 liters while I usually only fill it to half in order to save boiling time.
Thanks for asking, Ed.
 
Michael, no worries. Its just a straight forward box that anyone would've come up with. A down-scaled version of the real deal.

Thank you fellows for likes and comments.
 
Ed, the clamps work really well with good power. Cred to you for initially posting about tool making in your Naiad log.
 
The steambox, however crude in appearance, works really well. I have it on the floor so I dont have to bother about the condensation dripping allover. The rubber bands keep the lid tight to the box so the steam only can escape through the 10mm hole in the far side. The oak planks get so soft so that I have to watch out for them not bending too tight round the uprights. Which can be spotted in some of the pics...
The kettle takes 3 liters while I usually only fill it to half in order to save boiling time.
Thanks for asking, Ed.
 
Michael, no worries. Its just a straight forward box that anyone would've come up with. A down-scaled version of the real deal.

Thank you fellows for likes and comments.
 
Ed, the clamps work really well with good power. Cred to you for initially posting about tool making in your Naiad log.
 
The steambox, however crude in appearance, works really well. I have it on the floor so I dont have to bother about the condensation dripping allover. The rubber bands keep the lid tight to the box so the steam only can escape through the 10mm hole in the far side. The oak planks get so soft so that I have to watch out for them not bending too tight round the uprights. Which can be spotted in some of the pics...
The kettle takes 3 liters while I usually only fill it to half in order to save boiling time.
Thanks for asking, Ed.
 
Michael, no worries. Its just a straight forward box that anyone would've come up with. A down-scaled version of the real deal.

Between a side project to add more store capacity to my workshop (lots of extra drawers, can't have enough of them it seems) I installed the waterway.
Using card templates to determine the shapes and home build scraper to get the typical profile of the plank (see last pic). The hook and scarf joints were extra tricky as the position of the waterway it self was fixed due to their shapes relative to the hull. So I had to get them right the first time. They all were ok, although sometimes I had to fill a minor gap with  a small sliver of wood. The small piece at the bow connecting the port an starboard  waterway was challenging. 
 

 
Remco

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 143 – Monkey Rail 1
 
The two surviving pictures of Young America again provided the basis for the brass rail design used on the model.  The rail is just discernable in the picture taken from the starboard quarter.  From this it is clear that it was not of heavy or ornamental wood construction and equally clear – at least to me and I am happy to say, Bill Crothers – that it was a single, slim rail.  By the way, it is also very clear from this picture that the poop deck is at the height of the main rail and not a few feet below as shown on some models – including the builder’s half model in the Smithsonian.  Either that, or the people standing on the deck were on well-hidden stilts.  I suspect that the need to have good height in the aft cabin area led to this feature being incorporated before actual construction, perhaps by the owners.  Anyway, based on the picture and Bill Crothers’ interpretation, I elected to incorporate a single brass rail about 3 feet above the deck supported by cylindrical brass stanchions.  These have a ball-shaped top to pass the rail, and flanges at the base that rest on the main rail.
 
The first picture shows the method used to cut both the top fittings and the lower flanges.
 

 
The cutting guide used on the skid beam stanchion flanges was used for this.  The picture actually shows one of the 2” thick flanges being cut off.  The tops were cut in 3” sections using the hole covered by the saw.  The next picture shows top pieces and stanchions almost ready to be soldered together.
 

 
The next picture shows the first step of the assembly with the tops silver soldered to the posts.
 

 
The soldering unfortunately softens the wire somewhat so straightening is required – initially and whenever I lean on the finished rail – a habit I am diligently trying to correct. The tops were then rounded off and polished in the lathe with files as shown below.
 

 
The next picture shows the addition of the lower flanges.
 

 
The wood guide was used to ensure uniform height to the posts – and of course the rail.  After setting the flanges at the correct height, these were soldered on.  The next picture shows the final finishing and polishing of one of the stanchions.
 

 
Chucking the complete stanchion assembly in this step was the reason for the excess length in the initial pieces.  After filing a fillet on the top of the flange and removing all traces of solder and scale, fine abrasive polishing sticks were used to bring up the luster of the brass.
 
Some special stanchion pieces were required and two types are shown in the next picture.
 

 
The stanchion at the top has two top fittings set at right angles.  These will be set at the head of the steps to the main deck to support both the athwartship rail sections on the breast beam and also the stair rails.  The lower piece was shown earlier in position at the stern.  I do not know the purpose of this higher section, but it serves as a convenient start point for installing the rails, as will be seen in the next post.
 
Ed

So onto the actual work. After a lot of test cuts I secured my keel as follows
with a piece underneath and two on either side (to allow the drill close access otherwise
the vice jaws would interfere).
 

 
The drilling pattern was as follows
 
Centralise on left joint and upper false keel.
 
Move up 1.42 mm
Move right 6.41mm
Drill the first hole
Reset the mill to Zero.
Move right 6.41mm
Drill
Move right to 9.22mm
Drill
Move left to 0 and keep going slightly so I move over
the first hole and then back onto it (to sort out the mill backtrack)
Test hole location
Move up 1.42mm
Drill
Move right 4.61mm
Drill
Move right to 9.22mm
Drill
 
Rinse and repeat for all the holes.
 

 
I am happy with the results which I feel can be improved on for more visible joints
later on. One fortunate fact of the early keel work is that most of it (and the frames) will
be hidden so practice can be perfected before hitting stuff that can be seen.
 
Anyhow. Once I was happy with the joints it was time to add the copper wire.
 

 
These were inserted in one way with glue, removed, glue removed from the wood and then inserted
in the other. I may have to find a better way as glue still managed to escape so a better
process will be needed later. 
 
Once glues the copper was then snipped low (note the glue that still got out)
 
 

 
before one side was carefully filed to close to flat.
 

 
I then used a quick jig to tidy up. I chiseled a small square out of a flat piece of wood (the size
of the joint and bolts) and the placed the joint I was working on over this hole. Two pieces of the
same size as the keel then surrounded my keel and were secured. If my filing then became to aggressive or
off center then the surrounding pieces would get damaged and the keel should be okay.
 
Results were 'shiny'.
 

 
Next up I have to decide whether to 
 
A - Add the deadwood where I can
B - Add the lower stem (and equivelant rear) then taper the keel and stem and rear
C - Add the lower and upper stem (and so on) and THEN taper the keel.
 
All I am certain is that I dont want to cut the rabbett until the deadwood is on but the deadwood needs
the lower stem at least which would argue for B.  But lots of people seem to do the entire stem and then
taper....Not at all certain so any advice would be welcome.
 
Thanks for reading.
 

Time for another quick update. I have been working on the boxing joint and after several rather abortive attempts finally found a process a 'liked' that produced a piece I 'liked'. Some people have the talent (or practiced enough) to produce beautiful joints using just hand tools. This is not me. Instead I have to use various power tools mainly for their unbeleiveable ability to keep things at 90 degrees to each other.
 
Anyway for what it is worth here is the procedure I eventually followed (some of the photos are actually of earlier pieces)
 
1 -First up I started with a larger blank than normal to give plenty of 'fat' and then re-cut the long end and the short end on the table saw. I then marked those sides so I knew which were 'true'.
 
2 - Next I pasted the paper onto the true edge making certain I left plenty of space at both ends.
 
3 -The next cut was a parrallel cut for the upper side of the keel piece using the table saw. I found this easier earlier when I had more meat to work with. As the piece gets thinner the table saw gets a lot more fiddly and dangerous to use.. Also keep well away from the actual end of the straight line.
 

 
4 - Next up I cut the majority of the upper curve on the scroll allowing an upper section to be removed
 
5 - I then cut the forward diagonal edge with the scroll saw but not across the entire length of wood. I initially did this step after milling but found it far more difficult to get the angle at the correct angle and position. Here I used a blank to cut the angle then compared that to the pattern before putting the keel piece itself to the saw. 
 
6 - Now it is safe to mill. Initially I cut to a test depth and on some spare wood (on the keel piece) so I could check the measurements.
 

 
7 - Allowing the depth is correct milling with an end mill can now be carried out. This has the superlative advantage of keeping the cut face at right angles. The piece is also easily secured on the 'dead' ends allowing safety without marking the wood of the piece itself.
 

 
The end result was left relatively rough
 

 
(Note the above was a test piece before I cut the diagonal joint - from this you can see how difficult it would be getting that cut in the correct location)
 
8 - Now the forward vertical cut can be made with the table saw and then the rear vertical cut making the piece about the correct size.
 

 
9 - At this point the pattern still remained and I now tidied the mill section with a chisel
 

 
10 - Once seemingly correct it was then placed onto of another printed pattern to test for unusual edges
 

 
11 - If still happy then the pattern was removed. At this point I really wanted to see the various joints at the correct angles and no extra future work with the horizontal sections not being horizontal.
 

 
12 - Height was now compared to the remained of the keel and was adjusted slightly by the disc sander and then with the piece upside down on sand paper for the section close to the curve (as the disc sander introduced a small step).
 
13 - Finally the scarph joint to the rest of the keel was cut.
 

 
Now I fully expect further tidying up to be required when the mating piece is introduced but with the several earlier versions featuring various minor problems this rather regimented approach seemed to work for me.
 
Next up the false keel will be going on and after that bolting the keel together.. Thanks for reading.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

It has taken several years!... but I am finally ready to start on my first major scratch build project. For those who have forgotten this will be a 1:64 scale model of HBM Amphion a 36 gun English frigate from the Napoleonic Wars.
 
Plans and general research has existed up to this point in this topic here
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/259-hbms-amphion-1798-32-gun-18pdr-frigate/
 
Which I thought I would leave in place as opposed to copying over. Any historical gumpf can then go there allowing this to be more build orientated.
 
 
Before starting this project I have decided to set myself some ground rules (following the eminently copyable example of   Ed  from whose book  much of the the following list is 'adjusted')
 
Measure twice then cut once - often easier said than done for me this will usually mean thinking closely about what I am trying to do before doing it. Use the correct tool for the job - Thankfully I have built up a wide range of tools that should make this easier. Keep tools sharp including marking pencils - My habit of grabbing any old pencil must be resisted Clean up immediately - Ed refers to glue and if a modeller of his standard needs to react to glue then I shall have extra work on my hands Dry fit pieces first - seems logical. Don't use test pieces as actual pieces. As an addition to this to actually make test pieces as oppose to using the test piece as the completed erm piece. Mark and indent hole locations before drilling - use templates to reduce hole 'movement' as the eye can often lie When fatigue sets in then stop work - Resist the temptation to 'get something done' - it can always wait especially if something else has just been successfully completed. I tend to rush and put myself under time pressure which then lowers quality. Step away from the model if stressed - If I get to a difficult section then don't run myself into the ground but do something else for a few days and then return in a calmer frame of mind Keep quality consistent - If a piece is not good enough then start again. I am no zealot as far as accuracy (or have not been in the past) this model is requiring a considerably larger portion of my life so I want to increase my standards of operation. Reference other modellers when trouble beckons - this might seem a misnomer to most modellers but historically I have preferred to work stuff out myself rather than use MSW or other sites/books to research. AS with the previous point this model deserves better so if something fails to work at first try check the many excellent resources out there. In reality this will usually be ModelShipWorld forums and the recent spate of excellent books including Ed's HMS Naiad, David Antscherl's Swan Class Series and Allan Yedlinsky's HMS Euryalus  
 
That will do for a start. I expect fairly heavy re-work to occur - especially on the plans but we shall cross those bridges when we come to them.
 
This initial post shall be a somewhat boring one as I have only just completed my building board. For this I decided to copy the Swan Class building board (adjusted to my larger ships size) which has the virtue of being the simplest. I used thick melanin board with beech (I think , it was marked beech but who knows..) runners. My initial attempt to draw the center line was horrifically not crowned with success as though straight it was not level to the sides so I redid it and now have an amusing double fanning line at one end so have to make certain I don't utilise the wrong one.
 

 
Next up I had to place my 'fish' plan on it. After some hassles working out how to get turbo cad to print to size and not adjust the size (I added several L shaped lines to the plans with each line measuring exactly 64 inches thus if scales properly in the printer they should be exactly 1 inch when printed. This was very useful) . For attaching the plans I initially followed the 'Swan' advice to use artists spray (it not being water based) but this was not an unalloyed success possibly because my paper was too thin and it looked rather blotchy plus having had reinforced the center line with red ink several blood like blotches also appeared. Now I fully expect the build to draw blood at some point but can do without bad omens before I have started.
 
After reflecting a bit I decided to take a different approach. I re-printed the plans and re-checked the scale before laminating them (and re-checking the scale post lamination). I then sliced the ends of with a hard edge and a scalpel and glued that to the board with standard glue. The lamination is sturdy enough to resist any depredations from the glue and it has the further advantage of being a cleanable surface. The only thing I will have to be aware of going forward is to ensure that any vertical measurements need to take into account the extra thickness whether on or off the lamination.
 

 
 
Next job is to decide which wood to use for the keel and innards. I have some samples which I plan on practicing the keel joints with and will decide on appearance and ease of use once I have practiced. Past experience tells me it may now be months before I am happy with the result so don't expect particularly quick updates...

Sorry to be just catching up, Hakan.  Its good to see you posting again - and with such an interesting project.  I like the simplified versions of the clamps you have made - a great idea to reduce the complexity and still maintain the flexible nature of the clamp.  Please tell us how well your steam box works.  
 
Cheers,
 
Ed

It just occurred to me that my own little steam box was not new at all I had seen yours Hakan and forgot about it then built mine patting myself on my own back when it was your Idea all along.
Credit where credit is due.
Michael

Another update.
Not that I've been busy as a bee, but things are nevertheless progressing. (it can also be the fact that our pastor asked about it the other day...)
 
The first strakes I put in, without scarfs. Really tedious and hard to get proper alignment and nice joints to stem and stern. So, to ease my burden I changed the habit and cut the planks in two. The joint is a simple box joint, slightly angled. I will not put a covering piece on the inside, instead there are pins drilled through the topmost plank , into the underlying plank. This is also done at stem and stern.
The aftermost plank goes on first and the pin at the rear helps keeping the plank in place longitudinally. While the furthermost plank gets the pin in place prior to gluing to aid in proper fitting in the box joint.
 
A really sharp carpenters knife is useful to work away the waste. Apart from that, ordinary files are used and a little no 12 Stanley low angle block plane to work on the plank height (or width, whatever you want to call it).
 
Also notable in the pictures are my very untidy workplace. As can be seen in the pictures is the crude hull shape. Lots of dents and gaps and so. But since the plank thickness is 4 mm there is no real danger for me to be able to sand through the sides. As for the gaps, I will try wood filler of the sort that cabinet makers use.
 
Here is the sequence. 
Plank bent to shape... 

 
...and fitted to stem.

 
The open joint where the rear plank is glued and pinned in place.

 
at another angle and the tool.

 
Held and glued in place

 
And finally the clamps gone, Alas this is of course the other side. Clamps at the rear are holding next two planks in place so we are really picking up pace here...

 
About the sign on the wall in the first picture...did I mention that I bought a blue ocean sailing yacht, late august? Didn't I? But I DID! A long long dream come true and I am so so happy!
 
 
 

Ed, 
I'm not online here very often, but every time I do login, I turn to your log for inspiration and to keep the interest  re ship modelling fed properly.
 
Sincere thanks for your splendid work and presentation. The flywheels are just stunning.

Another update.
Not that I've been busy as a bee, but things are nevertheless progressing. (it can also be the fact that our pastor asked about it the other day...)
 
The first strakes I put in, without scarfs. Really tedious and hard to get proper alignment and nice joints to stem and stern. So, to ease my burden I changed the habit and cut the planks in two. The joint is a simple box joint, slightly angled. I will not put a covering piece on the inside, instead there are pins drilled through the topmost plank , into the underlying plank. This is also done at stem and stern.
The aftermost plank goes on first and the pin at the rear helps keeping the plank in place longitudinally. While the furthermost plank gets the pin in place prior to gluing to aid in proper fitting in the box joint.
 
A really sharp carpenters knife is useful to work away the waste. Apart from that, ordinary files are used and a little no 12 Stanley low angle block plane to work on the plank height (or width, whatever you want to call it).
 
Also notable in the pictures are my very untidy workplace. As can be seen in the pictures is the crude hull shape. Lots of dents and gaps and so. But since the plank thickness is 4 mm there is no real danger for me to be able to sand through the sides. As for the gaps, I will try wood filler of the sort that cabinet makers use.
 
Here is the sequence. 
Plank bent to shape... 

 
...and fitted to stem.

 
The open joint where the rear plank is glued and pinned in place.

 
at another angle and the tool.

 
Held and glued in place

 
And finally the clamps gone, Alas this is of course the other side. Clamps at the rear are holding next two planks in place so we are really picking up pace here...

 
About the sign on the wall in the first picture...did I mention that I bought a blue ocean sailing yacht, late august? Didn't I? But I DID! A long long dream come true and I am so so happy!
 
 
 

Hopefully the updates will come a bit more frequent from now on.
 
As previously noted, an awful autumn, but recovering is steady. Yay.
 
Strake no 3 in place and 4 on the go. Did one of those silly mistakes again. Cut a plank a couple of mms too short...gah! Good practice to fit new ones though...
 

 
And before you ask, a close up of the new homemade clamps. When comparing to Eds original I realize I some day might want longer rods to widen the gap. Well, they were quite easy to put together so over time they might get siblings.
 

 

So, first 2 + 2 strakes on. Not without a struggle though. And as they say on the tube "mind the gap"
Nothing a good sanding and filler wont hide so I am happy for the time being.
 
Next up I need to make some dummy frames to clamp to the floor board. Otherwise I guess I will be in too much trouble fitting planks. Speaking of which, the steam chest worked like a charm. I know from reading that oak bends really well when steamed, but it was still fun to see with my own eyes.
 
From a couple of different angles, here is the evidence.
 

 

 

So, was a bit creative the last day...bought a stove good for 2,5 hp (funny, you never relate to electric equipment that generates heat in horsepower...always the dull kW...) "My heatgun can blast at 2 hp!" Nope, you never hear that.
 
Anyway, a couple of pictures. The construction was straight forward. No glue, just stainless steel patio screws. The lid was firstly put on to tight so I had to rearrange the hinges at add a sealing profile. Drilled a 10 mm hole in the far end of the lid also to let the steam out. The box is 90 cm long, inside height 45 mm and inside width ca 55 mm.
 

 
And the inside. Planks rests on elevated bamboo skewers.
 

 
Finally, take two on the first plank. In a gleaming "time to lock up and go inside" kind of light.
 

 
 

Question for the weekend: How do you plank a boat that lacks frames?
And subsequent, do I really need to go down the spiling path?
 
It took the entire Saturday to come up with the answer which is kind of: Nah, you dont really...
 
Next question, how do you soak a plank that is nearly 1m long? 
The obvious answer to that is: In something that is just above 1m long and holds water...
 
Went all over my place to find something useful. The closest I got was A. the bathtub on 2nd floor. B. Flower tray (unfortunately pierced to drain water...)
 
Think again.
 
Eventually I used some leftover gutters from my renovations. Wacked it to the shape of an ugly tray and voilá! There it was. Have only knocked it over once up to now. The shop floor needed some soaking anyway....not!
 
Back to planking.
First I ripped down the plank to some 8mm width. Then it went for a bath. Unsuccessful tries were performed yesterday so I gave up and left it in water for the time being. Went back to the shipyard this morning with a fresh set of mind (well, almost fresh). Having spent the last 12 hrs in water the oak was mildly negotiable both laterally and longitudinally. It will be a struggle nevertheless.
 
Summary: I need more C-clamps.
 

 

Was able to sneak some time in the shop tonight.
All four rabbets are cut. Not to Remcos standard, but well, very few can reach his standard...
 
I had previously cut and shaped the cutwater piece so I glued it in place now. The black rubber band is a scrapped bicycle tube cut at an angle. Very handy to have. For the bigger bands needed I snip from the 2" one, and for smaller I use a scrapped road tube, ca 1" in dia.
 
When the glue has dried I will shape the entire stem to get rid of the bulky appearance that is has now.
 

 
 

Hi Alan, welcome to my place. Any questions, just ask. Great building table you put to together. 
 
Todays update re the build.
 
First out was to plane a bevel on the floor. Started by setting the for and aft bevels inline with the stem and stern lines. After that I continued the bevel from fore to amidships and from aft to amidships to minimize tear-out. Regarding using cutting handtools, it is an absolute joy to work with very sharp tools. How come you ask? Well, work had me on watch over the Xmas holidays which generated some extra to the budget so I ordered a long sought after addition to my shop, the Tormek sharpening system. I ordered the larger one and I have not regretted it. It IS pricey, yes, but then I do a lot more than just scratch wood for models. 
 
Also, in the pictures I try to let the tools I use linger around in the pictures so that viewers can see what has been used for each step.
 
Stem bevel.
 

 
And stern
 

 
And here the entire line is cut.
 

 
After the bevel was in place I started the rabbet. This was my first go at a rabbet, but I am fairly pleased with the outcome.
Planks are 4 mm thick which I hope makes for a quite easy plank-rabbet mating process  later.
 

 

Back from abroad and able to spend some quality time in the shop ... yay.
 
One thing that struck me today is that some day..any day ... in the future .. I will actually put together some accurate plans and then think through a step by step scheme to work by. However, this is not that day. I am more like Jack Sparrow (Captain Jack Sparrow) making it up as I go kind of type.
 
Since the hull will be semi filled with sand I reckoned it needed a form stable flooring. In my stash I found an old piece of plywood of unknown origin (not really, I know exactly where it came from) some 12 mm thick.
 
Next problem to solve was whether I should make two half sides and attach to the "keel" in some ingenious way. I opted out for that and instead made single piece floor. Problem with that was how to attach the backbone to it. Instead of more words, the pictures will tell the answer.
 
First with the backbone in place
 

 
And then to show the solution.
 

 
Next up will be to bevel the plywood and also cut a rabbet in the stem and stern.
 
Mario, a question to you if you read this, Do you have any information on the dimension of the planks for the hull? The thickness I have worked out, but how broad were they? Do you know? The scale I am building to is somewhere in the range of 1/12 - 1/15.