kruginmi

This is my build of the Lady Anne (named after the wife – bonus points).  If you squint real hard and tilt your head you may recognize the hull as the AL Harvey.  Other than that it has been a whole lot of kit bashing.  This model was given to me by someone who had just glued the bulkheads on and decided this just wasn’t the thing for him.  Over time (as a break from the Druid) I have done a little bit here and a little there.  I planked the hull as a standard model hull to demonstrate to someone else it wasn’t that hard, so there are planks that taper to points and no real attempt to mimic real practice.  I had ‘assumed’ it would be built out of the box and continued in that direction.  Then things started to get fuzzy. 
I knew that Harvey was a fictitious ship and things really started to bug me about how realistic it was.  The deck furnishings especially just seemed haphazard and in some cases wrong.  This is where I stepped out of the box and this fast build took a hard right into kit bashing.  Over the years I had made a point of keeping pictures of ideas on real ships and models of things I really liked and I started to look at what I could add / substitute in this build.  I started perusing books about clippers, especially ‘The American-Built Clipper Ship, 1850-1856’ by Crothers to look at deck arrangements used by Clippers (and believe it or not, I did find those outhouses shown on the Harvey.  I don’t like them, but I found them).
 



 
I cleared the decks (literally), made paper cutouts of potential deck furniture, and spent a lot of time pondering the imponderables.  A big decision was to rig her as the Pride of Baltimore II was rigged, a true Baltimore Clipper.  This defined the needed pinrails and deck tie downs required (as well as block counts which were a LOT more than the kit supplied).  I moved the pumps aft to where they could actually do some good.  The forward windlass was replaced with a windlass actually capable of bringing in an anchor.  The capstan was moved to a position where it could actually be used, a below deck access was added and on, and on, and on.  The last addition I added are cavels to allow easier docking.  To retain its original heritage I created a 1:48th scale workman that I named sailor Harvey to verify heights as I proceeded.
 



 
The deck currently has a configuration that I am happy with.  The last original piece is the aft deckhouse and it just seems out of proportion for sailor Harvey to navigate through so that will probably be scrapped and an alternate built in its place.  Oh, I retained the cannons since my son insists that cannons are cool and I couldn’t possibly take them off.  I did, however, modify their locations, retain only six (continental breeched) and will probably have two of those stowed parallel to the bulkhead.
 


 
As time allows I will post past pictures of the process I used to build various pieces and the rationale used for including them (which may just be I liked the look).  I am really trying to focus on the Druid and get’r done, but this ship will be warming up.  As usual, any comments are welcome.
 

 
Mark

This is my build of the Lady Anne (named after the wife – bonus points).  If you squint real hard and tilt your head you may recognize the hull as the AL Harvey.  Other than that it has been a whole lot of kit bashing.  This model was given to me by someone who had just glued the bulkheads on and decided this just wasn’t the thing for him.  Over time (as a break from the Druid) I have done a little bit here and a little there.  I planked the hull as a standard model hull to demonstrate to someone else it wasn’t that hard, so there are planks that taper to points and no real attempt to mimic real practice.  I had ‘assumed’ it would be built out of the box and continued in that direction.  Then things started to get fuzzy. 
I knew that Harvey was a fictitious ship and things really started to bug me about how realistic it was.  The deck furnishings especially just seemed haphazard and in some cases wrong.  This is where I stepped out of the box and this fast build took a hard right into kit bashing.  Over the years I had made a point of keeping pictures of ideas on real ships and models of things I really liked and I started to look at what I could add / substitute in this build.  I started perusing books about clippers, especially ‘The American-Built Clipper Ship, 1850-1856’ by Crothers to look at deck arrangements used by Clippers (and believe it or not, I did find those outhouses shown on the Harvey.  I don’t like them, but I found them).
 



 
I cleared the decks (literally), made paper cutouts of potential deck furniture, and spent a lot of time pondering the imponderables.  A big decision was to rig her as the Pride of Baltimore II was rigged, a true Baltimore Clipper.  This defined the needed pinrails and deck tie downs required (as well as block counts which were a LOT more than the kit supplied).  I moved the pumps aft to where they could actually do some good.  The forward windlass was replaced with a windlass actually capable of bringing in an anchor.  The capstan was moved to a position where it could actually be used, a below deck access was added and on, and on, and on.  The last addition I added are cavels to allow easier docking.  To retain its original heritage I created a 1:48th scale workman that I named sailor Harvey to verify heights as I proceeded.
 



 
The deck currently has a configuration that I am happy with.  The last original piece is the aft deckhouse and it just seems out of proportion for sailor Harvey to navigate through so that will probably be scrapped and an alternate built in its place.  Oh, I retained the cannons since my son insists that cannons are cool and I couldn’t possibly take them off.  I did, however, modify their locations, retain only six (continental breeched) and will probably have two of those stowed parallel to the bulkhead.
 


 
As time allows I will post past pictures of the process I used to build various pieces and the rationale used for including them (which may just be I liked the look).  I am really trying to focus on the Druid and get’r done, but this ship will be warming up.  As usual, any comments are welcome.
 

 
Mark

One item on this ship that I saw someone else do that I knew immediately that I was going to copy was the stairwell going down to the lower deck.  In a PoB - and one that has the hull complete - how would you do this?  The answer is to make a self contained box  and lower it into a cut hole in the deck:
 

 

 
In the following pic you will notice a slight indentation at the top of the box.  This was to allow the box to slide down next to the center bulkhead.
 

 
The box is painted black below deck level to allow the illusion of desending.
 

 

 
I really like the opportunities this provides both on this ship and others.  An easy implementation with good results.

One item on this ship that I saw someone else do that I knew immediately that I was going to copy was the stairwell going down to the lower deck.  In a PoB - and one that has the hull complete - how would you do this?  The answer is to make a self contained box  and lower it into a cut hole in the deck:
 

 

 
In the following pic you will notice a slight indentation at the top of the box.  This was to allow the box to slide down next to the center bulkhead.
 

 
The box is painted black below deck level to allow the illusion of desending.
 

 

 
I really like the opportunities this provides both on this ship and others.  An easy implementation with good results.

On to the chesstrees.  There is definitely a few hours here as will be explained below.  My first gut was to jump right in, make a cardboard template to match the hull shape, transfer to a wooden piece and get'r done.  Well, I never really like butt joints that show and in this case I was unable to get a real tight fit all around the chesstree.  Pause to think.....
 

 
Well, the easiest way is to inset the chesstree into the planking.  So, I carefully trace around the chesstree and chisel half a plank depth away.
 

 
The result is much more satisfying.  As a bonus, the joint will be a whole lot stronger.
 

 
Now here came the biggest problem to overcome, creating the sheave hole.  At first I jumped in and carefully drilled a hole at both ends of the sheave hole and tried to remove any remaining wood in between.  I didn't even take a picture as the result was totally unacceptable no matter how much I carefully filed, scraped and poked.  I ended up walking away for the night. 
 
Later on the solution came to me and involved keeping it as simple as possible.  I would cut into the chesstree to the sheave from the bottom.  Once everything was cleaned up (now that the entire hole was accessible this was easy), a small section of wood would be replaced.  Very quick and the result I liked very much.  The actual block you see is one fashioned quickly and will be replaced.
 

 

 
So overall the process was probably 3.5 hours.  The next one for the port side will probably be done in less than half the time but I am okay with that.  I ended up with something that looks good and methodically worked through the issues as they came up. 
 
Cheers,
Mark

RIght now I have no plans to.  This hull has been around for 8 years (assembled) and been very stable so far.  Also, there are already regions I am unable to adequately reach.  With basswood really need some sort of sealer.
 
This whole ship has been a learning experience for me.  Most items (where possible) are doweled or positioned with clamps as opposed to glue to allow some movement.  I attach an internal pic of the orlop deck which has survived with no ill effects so far.
 
Loving the hobby,
Mark
 

Greetings (again).  Returning to MSW after a bit of off time (eg I just completed my 5th sprint triathlon).  I have not been idle and have lately been kicking it into high gear with my version of the HMS Druid.  Believe it or not, started in 2003 (two kids and a couple of homes ago) but looking to finish in the first quarter, 2014.  I have loved every minute I have spent - probably a little over 300 hours so far.
 
I just finished with the bow assembly (sans the eking rail which will wait until the cathead is affixed).  Previous to that was the stern caprail.  I believe I am on the downhill of this build.  Next up is finishing the rudder metal work and then working up from the berthdeck finishing all the details.
 
Additionally I have made progress on my Lady Anne and finished the DaVinci wing (currently on display at the Michigan Aviation Academy), but that will be a subject for another day.
 
Mark

This is my build of the Lady Anne (named after the wife – bonus points).  If you squint real hard and tilt your head you may recognize the hull as the AL Harvey.  Other than that it has been a whole lot of kit bashing.  This model was given to me by someone who had just glued the bulkheads on and decided this just wasn’t the thing for him.  Over time (as a break from the Druid) I have done a little bit here and a little there.  I planked the hull as a standard model hull to demonstrate to someone else it wasn’t that hard, so there are planks that taper to points and no real attempt to mimic real practice.  I had ‘assumed’ it would be built out of the box and continued in that direction.  Then things started to get fuzzy. 
I knew that Harvey was a fictitious ship and things really started to bug me about how realistic it was.  The deck furnishings especially just seemed haphazard and in some cases wrong.  This is where I stepped out of the box and this fast build took a hard right into kit bashing.  Over the years I had made a point of keeping pictures of ideas on real ships and models of things I really liked and I started to look at what I could add / substitute in this build.  I started perusing books about clippers, especially ‘The American-Built Clipper Ship, 1850-1856’ by Crothers to look at deck arrangements used by Clippers (and believe it or not, I did find those outhouses shown on the Harvey.  I don’t like them, but I found them).
 



 
I cleared the decks (literally), made paper cutouts of potential deck furniture, and spent a lot of time pondering the imponderables.  A big decision was to rig her as the Pride of Baltimore II was rigged, a true Baltimore Clipper.  This defined the needed pinrails and deck tie downs required (as well as block counts which were a LOT more than the kit supplied).  I moved the pumps aft to where they could actually do some good.  The forward windlass was replaced with a windlass actually capable of bringing in an anchor.  The capstan was moved to a position where it could actually be used, a below deck access was added and on, and on, and on.  The last addition I added are cavels to allow easier docking.  To retain its original heritage I created a 1:48th scale workman that I named sailor Harvey to verify heights as I proceeded.
 



 
The deck currently has a configuration that I am happy with.  The last original piece is the aft deckhouse and it just seems out of proportion for sailor Harvey to navigate through so that will probably be scrapped and an alternate built in its place.  Oh, I retained the cannons since my son insists that cannons are cool and I couldn’t possibly take them off.  I did, however, modify their locations, retain only six (continental breeched) and will probably have two of those stowed parallel to the bulkhead.
 


 
As time allows I will post past pictures of the process I used to build various pieces and the rationale used for including them (which may just be I liked the look).  I am really trying to focus on the Druid and get’r done, but this ship will be warming up.  As usual, any comments are welcome.
 

 
Mark

That I can do (I am actually home this AM watching the kids).  I do want to stress that this is a kit hull, supposedly of a representative clipper from 1847.  I have done little in the way of verifying and definitely no modification.  It was a fun hull to plank - very smooth lines that minimized any need for extreme bends or crazy clamping (much easier than say the Swift).  The hull isn't finalized:  some planks at the stern need some adjusting and the bowsprit will be radically changed, but hey, it is what it is. 
 
I did include one picture of the ship with masts.  Yes, that is a 12" ruler in the photo.  This ship is pretty big.  My wife has inquired where I intend to display it and frankly, I have no idea.  This is a relax the rules and enjoy the build.  Besides, given my output rate the display issue won't be realized until the kids are gone (and I have a 3 year old!).
 
Mark

Since this was a working boat it spent a good chunk of time moored to a dock while it loaded or unloaded, so……it needed a robust way to tie up, usually to docks below the height of its bulwarks.  I had noticed the use of cavels on some wooden period ships I have visited and thought this the perfect solution.  A quick check of the Pride of Baltimore II reinforced this by seeing she had them.
 
These were pretty straight forward but I believe really added some pop to the hull.  I decided to use a block of walnut for the hull pass through and basswood (my go to wood) for the interior tie up post.  Since the bulwark was veneer overlaid on the inner sub-layer the walnut really provided a consistent clean look that I liked.  For location, I drilled through the inner bulwark at the center point between frames for accuracy.  A little wood removal with a sharp knife / files and lots of test fittings and this part was good to go.  The inner cavel post was pretty straight forward (don’t forget the matching center hole to the hull) and glued on.  All in all, this was less than an hour of work.  A total of four were put on the Lady Anne (two each side).

This is my build of the Lady Anne (named after the wife – bonus points).  If you squint real hard and tilt your head you may recognize the hull as the AL Harvey.  Other than that it has been a whole lot of kit bashing.  This model was given to me by someone who had just glued the bulkheads on and decided this just wasn’t the thing for him.  Over time (as a break from the Druid) I have done a little bit here and a little there.  I planked the hull as a standard model hull to demonstrate to someone else it wasn’t that hard, so there are planks that taper to points and no real attempt to mimic real practice.  I had ‘assumed’ it would be built out of the box and continued in that direction.  Then things started to get fuzzy. 
I knew that Harvey was a fictitious ship and things really started to bug me about how realistic it was.  The deck furnishings especially just seemed haphazard and in some cases wrong.  This is where I stepped out of the box and this fast build took a hard right into kit bashing.  Over the years I had made a point of keeping pictures of ideas on real ships and models of things I really liked and I started to look at what I could add / substitute in this build.  I started perusing books about clippers, especially ‘The American-Built Clipper Ship, 1850-1856’ by Crothers to look at deck arrangements used by Clippers (and believe it or not, I did find those outhouses shown on the Harvey.  I don’t like them, but I found them).
 



 
I cleared the decks (literally), made paper cutouts of potential deck furniture, and spent a lot of time pondering the imponderables.  A big decision was to rig her as the Pride of Baltimore II was rigged, a true Baltimore Clipper.  This defined the needed pinrails and deck tie downs required (as well as block counts which were a LOT more than the kit supplied).  I moved the pumps aft to where they could actually do some good.  The forward windlass was replaced with a windlass actually capable of bringing in an anchor.  The capstan was moved to a position where it could actually be used, a below deck access was added and on, and on, and on.  The last addition I added are cavels to allow easier docking.  To retain its original heritage I created a 1:48th scale workman that I named sailor Harvey to verify heights as I proceeded.
 



 
The deck currently has a configuration that I am happy with.  The last original piece is the aft deckhouse and it just seems out of proportion for sailor Harvey to navigate through so that will probably be scrapped and an alternate built in its place.  Oh, I retained the cannons since my son insists that cannons are cool and I couldn’t possibly take them off.  I did, however, modify their locations, retain only six (continental breeched) and will probably have two of those stowed parallel to the bulkhead.
 


 
As time allows I will post past pictures of the process I used to build various pieces and the rationale used for including them (which may just be I liked the look).  I am really trying to focus on the Druid and get’r done, but this ship will be warming up.  As usual, any comments are welcome.
 

 
Mark

Mark! I am so glad to see this log. You know it is all your fault! I have been struggling with the Harvey for many years. On the one hand she is a beautiful model, on the other she is as you say quite inaccurate. When I saw this log on MSW one you inspired me to do more digging and make some changes. I look forward to more creative ideas from you. Especially the cabin. And you have done a very nice job.

Definitely a rake to those masts!  Looks like it is going over 10 knots standing still.....
 
I also really like the look this provides.
 
Mark

Very nice lines on that boat, thanks for posting the 'Profile' shots.. do I detect a good 'rake' to the masts? she looks very like one of the Great Lakes Clipper-Schooners which are tasty looking boats (like many American designed vessels of the time, in fact look no further than the famous 'America' herself,  and I always has a soft-spot for the Grand Banks Schooner lines too)
 
Eamonn

That I can do (I am actually home this AM watching the kids).  I do want to stress that this is a kit hull, supposedly of a representative clipper from 1847.  I have done little in the way of verifying and definitely no modification.  It was a fun hull to plank - very smooth lines that minimized any need for extreme bends or crazy clamping (much easier than say the Swift).  The hull isn't finalized:  some planks at the stern need some adjusting and the bowsprit will be radically changed, but hey, it is what it is. 
 
I did include one picture of the ship with masts.  Yes, that is a 12" ruler in the photo.  This ship is pretty big.  My wife has inquired where I intend to display it and frankly, I have no idea.  This is a relax the rules and enjoy the build.  Besides, given my output rate the display issue won't be realized until the kids are gone (and I have a 3 year old!).
 
Mark

I think I might have a winner.  I should have checked the paint section of this forum for potential hints, but after a trip to the local Woodcraft and asking the grizzled veterans there General FInishes Gel Urethane came highly recommended.  Now, the label says wipe on and that is a potential issue, but the gel was very viscous and a paint brush worked very well.  If you paint it on consistently in one direction, any excess is essentially removed negating the need for wiping.  It does need to dry overnight but I am okay with that. I took some surplus steps to verify it can handle small fiddly bits and there was no issue.  Definitely no shine like the the other two finishes I tried.  No fuzzies or crazy grain rising either.
 
It recommends 2-3 coats but visually there wasn't much difference so.....one coat for the hard to reach internal surfaces and two coats for everything else.  There is a slight change in color and the potential to darken some with age but again I have no issues with that. 
 
Once I start I think it should take about a week of steady work to get it covered.  Then I can incrementally do the internal sections as they are completed and ready.
 
Mark
 

Thanks Eamonn,
 
When i decided to work 'outside the box' one of my requirements was for it be visually appealing.  I change things on the fly if they don't quite seem complete.  The deck reinforcing was one such item.  It seemed right but definitely wasn't planned for originally.  The result surpassed my expectation.
 
The warning is, once you start bashing you want to bash more and more!
 
Cheers,
Mark

This is my build of the Lady Anne (named after the wife – bonus points).  If you squint real hard and tilt your head you may recognize the hull as the AL Harvey.  Other than that it has been a whole lot of kit bashing.  This model was given to me by someone who had just glued the bulkheads on and decided this just wasn’t the thing for him.  Over time (as a break from the Druid) I have done a little bit here and a little there.  I planked the hull as a standard model hull to demonstrate to someone else it wasn’t that hard, so there are planks that taper to points and no real attempt to mimic real practice.  I had ‘assumed’ it would be built out of the box and continued in that direction.  Then things started to get fuzzy. 
I knew that Harvey was a fictitious ship and things really started to bug me about how realistic it was.  The deck furnishings especially just seemed haphazard and in some cases wrong.  This is where I stepped out of the box and this fast build took a hard right into kit bashing.  Over the years I had made a point of keeping pictures of ideas on real ships and models of things I really liked and I started to look at what I could add / substitute in this build.  I started perusing books about clippers, especially ‘The American-Built Clipper Ship, 1850-1856’ by Crothers to look at deck arrangements used by Clippers (and believe it or not, I did find those outhouses shown on the Harvey.  I don’t like them, but I found them).
 



 
I cleared the decks (literally), made paper cutouts of potential deck furniture, and spent a lot of time pondering the imponderables.  A big decision was to rig her as the Pride of Baltimore II was rigged, a true Baltimore Clipper.  This defined the needed pinrails and deck tie downs required (as well as block counts which were a LOT more than the kit supplied).  I moved the pumps aft to where they could actually do some good.  The forward windlass was replaced with a windlass actually capable of bringing in an anchor.  The capstan was moved to a position where it could actually be used, a below deck access was added and on, and on, and on.  The last addition I added are cavels to allow easier docking.  To retain its original heritage I created a 1:48th scale workman that I named sailor Harvey to verify heights as I proceeded.
 



 
The deck currently has a configuration that I am happy with.  The last original piece is the aft deckhouse and it just seems out of proportion for sailor Harvey to navigate through so that will probably be scrapped and an alternate built in its place.  Oh, I retained the cannons since my son insists that cannons are cool and I couldn’t possibly take them off.  I did, however, modify their locations, retain only six (continental breeched) and will probably have two of those stowed parallel to the bulkhead.
 


 
As time allows I will post past pictures of the process I used to build various pieces and the rationale used for including them (which may just be I liked the look).  I am really trying to focus on the Druid and get’r done, but this ship will be warming up.  As usual, any comments are welcome.
 

 
Mark

Hi There
 
Really like the contrasting timbers Mark, nice work, as a newbie I wouldn't be familiar with the 'original' model you Bashed from, but what you have there looks fab. Particularly like the deck reinforcing around the winch, cool touch... only wish I had your ability and I understand when things get 'Fuzzy' only too well (I have an 80% finished Heller model of the French Le Superbe that was 'captured' (ahem, ahem) by the Royal Navy and bashed to become HMS Superb 74, with all RN differences for circa 1803..yup that got really fuzzy before I picked a date, there were subtle rigging detail changes around that time. My Masting & Rigging of English Men of War book got a serious looking at)
Wishing you the very best
 
Eamonn

Since this was a working boat it spent a good chunk of time moored to a dock while it loaded or unloaded, so……it needed a robust way to tie up, usually to docks below the height of its bulwarks.  I had noticed the use of cavels on some wooden period ships I have visited and thought this the perfect solution.  A quick check of the Pride of Baltimore II reinforced this by seeing she had them.
 
These were pretty straight forward but I believe really added some pop to the hull.  I decided to use a block of walnut for the hull pass through and basswood (my go to wood) for the interior tie up post.  Since the bulwark was veneer overlaid on the inner sub-layer the walnut really provided a consistent clean look that I liked.  For location, I drilled through the inner bulwark at the center point between frames for accuracy.  A little wood removal with a sharp knife / files and lots of test fittings and this part was good to go.  The inner cavel post was pretty straight forward (don’t forget the matching center hole to the hull) and glued on.  All in all, this was less than an hour of work.  A total of four were put on the Lady Anne (two each side).

This is my build of the Lady Anne (named after the wife – bonus points).  If you squint real hard and tilt your head you may recognize the hull as the AL Harvey.  Other than that it has been a whole lot of kit bashing.  This model was given to me by someone who had just glued the bulkheads on and decided this just wasn’t the thing for him.  Over time (as a break from the Druid) I have done a little bit here and a little there.  I planked the hull as a standard model hull to demonstrate to someone else it wasn’t that hard, so there are planks that taper to points and no real attempt to mimic real practice.  I had ‘assumed’ it would be built out of the box and continued in that direction.  Then things started to get fuzzy. 
I knew that Harvey was a fictitious ship and things really started to bug me about how realistic it was.  The deck furnishings especially just seemed haphazard and in some cases wrong.  This is where I stepped out of the box and this fast build took a hard right into kit bashing.  Over the years I had made a point of keeping pictures of ideas on real ships and models of things I really liked and I started to look at what I could add / substitute in this build.  I started perusing books about clippers, especially ‘The American-Built Clipper Ship, 1850-1856’ by Crothers to look at deck arrangements used by Clippers (and believe it or not, I did find those outhouses shown on the Harvey.  I don’t like them, but I found them).
 



 
I cleared the decks (literally), made paper cutouts of potential deck furniture, and spent a lot of time pondering the imponderables.  A big decision was to rig her as the Pride of Baltimore II was rigged, a true Baltimore Clipper.  This defined the needed pinrails and deck tie downs required (as well as block counts which were a LOT more than the kit supplied).  I moved the pumps aft to where they could actually do some good.  The forward windlass was replaced with a windlass actually capable of bringing in an anchor.  The capstan was moved to a position where it could actually be used, a below deck access was added and on, and on, and on.  The last addition I added are cavels to allow easier docking.  To retain its original heritage I created a 1:48th scale workman that I named sailor Harvey to verify heights as I proceeded.
 



 
The deck currently has a configuration that I am happy with.  The last original piece is the aft deckhouse and it just seems out of proportion for sailor Harvey to navigate through so that will probably be scrapped and an alternate built in its place.  Oh, I retained the cannons since my son insists that cannons are cool and I couldn’t possibly take them off.  I did, however, modify their locations, retain only six (continental breeched) and will probably have two of those stowed parallel to the bulkhead.
 


 
As time allows I will post past pictures of the process I used to build various pieces and the rationale used for including them (which may just be I liked the look).  I am really trying to focus on the Druid and get’r done, but this ship will be warming up.  As usual, any comments are welcome.
 

 
Mark

Let's see. Banging headache (hoping it didn't go into a migraine). I did
something to my heel and it hurt to walk. Too many things to do around the
house. So....best just go to the workshop. It was the right cure because a
couple of hours later and I am feeling better (head wise) and I am reflecting on
completing the entry steps (starboard side at least).

Those items had been a little intimidating - why? I don't know. I stumbled
across some 1/32nd inch cutoff discs for my dremel (so much easier than the
1/16th inch), drew up a simple molding pattern and had it quickly cut out. I
actually found a previously cut piece of boxwood that matched the dimensions
required. Some quick scraping and cutting to equal lengths and I was ready to
glue.
 


I laid down some paint tape to get a straight line and cut out a spacer to
insure they match. The big question was whether the eighth step would rest on
the wales as the plans show....and yes it did.
 


This almost was too easy. What did I forget or mess up? Still haven't figured
it out yet (hah, hah). Pics are posted. I do laugh to see how the camera
really seems to magnify all the issues, dents and everything wrong that are
invisible otherwise.
 

 
One almost oops moment was when I as verifying the distance from the steps to the end of the waist railing - it was too short.  A couple of anxious moments before I realized (so many years ago) that I had intentionally left the upper railing long to allow cutting down in the future.  So, no issues.  Tonight I hope to get the port side done. This will officially end the external hull work (sans the eking rail which waits until the cathead is affixed). The rudder metal work awaits.

Mark

Forgot to put in the title - 1/8th scale! First off, thank you everyone who helped when I was looking for info to draw up plans. I've decided that I've come to a point where I've got enough drawings to get on with it, actually I reached this point about ten days ago, but was somewhat reluctant to start a log till I felt reasonably confident that I would at least get a hull out of it!  

 


Balsa infill - for lack of anything better available...
 

 
Sanding the naughty bit...always tricky getting the shape fair
 

 
OK, this is as far as I've gotten as of yesterday. Today I'm building a screen door from a kit....much less fun.
As always, constructive cricism, comments and suggestions gratefully received!
F

On to the chesstrees.  There is definitely a few hours here as will be explained below.  My first gut was to jump right in, make a cardboard template to match the hull shape, transfer to a wooden piece and get'r done.  Well, I never really like butt joints that show and in this case I was unable to get a real tight fit all around the chesstree.  Pause to think.....
 

 
Well, the easiest way is to inset the chesstree into the planking.  So, I carefully trace around the chesstree and chisel half a plank depth away.
 

 
The result is much more satisfying.  As a bonus, the joint will be a whole lot stronger.
 

 
Now here came the biggest problem to overcome, creating the sheave hole.  At first I jumped in and carefully drilled a hole at both ends of the sheave hole and tried to remove any remaining wood in between.  I didn't even take a picture as the result was totally unacceptable no matter how much I carefully filed, scraped and poked.  I ended up walking away for the night. 
 
Later on the solution came to me and involved keeping it as simple as possible.  I would cut into the chesstree to the sheave from the bottom.  Once everything was cleaned up (now that the entire hole was accessible this was easy), a small section of wood would be replaced.  Very quick and the result I liked very much.  The actual block you see is one fashioned quickly and will be replaced.
 

 

 
So overall the process was probably 3.5 hours.  The next one for the port side will probably be done in less than half the time but I am okay with that.  I ended up with something that looks good and methodically worked through the issues as they came up. 
 
Cheers,
Mark

On to the chesstrees.  There is definitely a few hours here as will be explained below.  My first gut was to jump right in, make a cardboard template to match the hull shape, transfer to a wooden piece and get'r done.  Well, I never really like butt joints that show and in this case I was unable to get a real tight fit all around the chesstree.  Pause to think.....
 

 
Well, the easiest way is to inset the chesstree into the planking.  So, I carefully trace around the chesstree and chisel half a plank depth away.
 

 
The result is much more satisfying.  As a bonus, the joint will be a whole lot stronger.
 

 
Now here came the biggest problem to overcome, creating the sheave hole.  At first I jumped in and carefully drilled a hole at both ends of the sheave hole and tried to remove any remaining wood in between.  I didn't even take a picture as the result was totally unacceptable no matter how much I carefully filed, scraped and poked.  I ended up walking away for the night. 
 
Later on the solution came to me and involved keeping it as simple as possible.  I would cut into the chesstree to the sheave from the bottom.  Once everything was cleaned up (now that the entire hole was accessible this was easy), a small section of wood would be replaced.  Very quick and the result I liked very much.  The actual block you see is one fashioned quickly and will be replaced.
 

 

 
So overall the process was probably 3.5 hours.  The next one for the port side will probably be done in less than half the time but I am okay with that.  I ended up with something that looks good and methodically worked through the issues as they came up. 
 
Cheers,
Mark