kruginmi

I just got this book for Father's Day from my son and I wanted to add my very favorable impressions from page 1 to page 197.  Incredible, just simply incredible.
 
I read half the book last night, finishing it up today.  The pictures are numerous, spot on and just simply go on and on.  As a builder of a plank on frame model I found this insight into an original 3 decker build very informative and will help me going forward.  For example it is okay to simplify some structures (the one piece after cistern as an example), or have a non functioning tiller.  It is okay to use 'SWOPEM'  (Situation Where One Part Equals Many).  Great to see was the presentation of 'Nobody's Perfect.'  A pictorial of things found on the model that were obvious mistakes or modifications made to account for fit by the original builder was awesome.  They happen to everyone and glad to see (once again) it is okay to keep them on the model.
 
My only 'regret' (maybe too harsh) is that the middle deck memory board (picture taken form directly above) is only one page in size, whereas the rest are a full two pages in size.  I would LOVE to have access to these pics in a digital format.  SO much to take in and learn from.
 
I expect to pick this book up many times.  When things are going slow, when I need some inspiration or I am figuring out how to advance my build in a particular area. 
 
A wonderful resource, a wonderful read and a book that I will keep close at hand.  I highly recommend, especially those that are either in a PoF build, or have one under their belt.  So much information about the internals of a ship model.
 
Mark

Worked on first of two main mast stays (both port and starboard) - pretty happy with the result.  After I get the port one fashioned up will probably need to start on the ratlines.  Not too many.

Had to find (make) my 'Put'r There 3000' for actually rigging - especially to tie them up at the cleats.  With the meat hooks I have for fingers only way to go.  My essential tools in addition to this for rigging are two fly typing clamps (need more), hemostats and my vise for holding the clamps when possibly.  Could also throw in my magnifying glass(s).  Peepers just aren't the same as before.

I am approaching this rigging as have some fun while doing stuff.  So.....while I do look at suggested rigging thicknesses I also look at my supply and choose what I think would work.  Having the blocks on hand showed the ones I chose that had to go through the blocks had to fit.  Color selections are entirely on me (very liberating).  I did decide early on that I was going to settle on two sizes of blocks from Syren for ease (and cost).  My calculations over the whole ship showed 186  blocks required (single, double, triple - both sizes).  The 1/8" were the smallest I wanted so therefore that and 3/16's were the answer.
 
Having fun so will keep at it,  -Mark

Much better......

Moved on to the Fore-mast.  Of course the chain plates had more eye-bolts in them so the jig couldn't be used the same way.  So...time to adapt.
I clamped to the bulkhead on the deck side.

Then the process remains the same.  It seems as soon as you get good at something, it is time to move on (haha).  I have a few backstays still to go.


Then came the all important check:  are the masts in line and appear to be perpendicular to the deck......

 
I can live with that result. 
Stay Building My Friends,  Mark

Hey, I actually did something (queue fanfare) (and the peasants rejoiced).
 
First up was the supports for the boom shelf on the main mast.  Since this was at an angle, I used some old business cards (hated that company) to define the angle required at four points (the sides ended up being 90 degrees, which was actually a good thing).  Then a simple matter to pull out some basswood and cut to length, cut to angle and cut the beveled outer edge.  I am not going to say I messed up and cut the same angle twice (but I did).

 
Put this into it's place and now my twitch can go away.  I possibly could have done more than four, but when the rigging is complete and boom installed this will be hard to see anyway. (and yes I scraped away the sanding sealer to insure the piece will stay put when glued).

Finally I need to add a cheek block way up at the tippity top (technical term).   I modified a block I had laying around from the kit and glued on.  Given that the main gaff topsail line runs through this I thought it prudent to add some reinforcement so I drilled through both the block and mast and ran a section of brad nail through to insure it stays where it was.

Once snipped and super glued it was ready to go.
 
So......I can actually start putting the shrouds in place and descend into ratline purgatory.  It will at least get my knot tying skills back up.  Three shrouds per side.  Something for this weekend (and the next, and the next, and....you get the picture).
Stay Building My Friends, Mark
 
Edit:  I should add the mast cap and trestle trees are not parallel to the deck, which is an issue.  However, this mast was (originally) constructed a long time ago in a house far far away.  While I have done major reconstruction to make it more attuned with the Pride of Baltimore, I decided to leave the mast cap and trestle trees as originally assembled since it would require much surgery.  It is what it is.

Alright, the Lady Anne is the project for the Winter.  Time to put it in the done column.  Pulled it out of storage, found the Pride of Baltimore plans, and actually found all the masting and sparring I had completed.
 

 
I have a ropewalk but I am okay with using stuff at hand.  Plus this is a work boat so I don't even need all the rigging matching in color.  I pulled out all of the prospective 'rope' I had stuffed here and there.  Four sizes from .008 to .025 should do the job, in both tanish and blackish (though I like brown for the shrouds).
 

 
Using my thread sorter I think I found the threads that I will use:
 

 
The key test (I did pick up blocks from Syren of course) was would the fine thread fit through the 1/8" blocks:
 

 
Success!  Now to get the workspace organized, make sure the the masts are totally setup then getting onto those ratlines (everyone's favorite part).
 
Stay Building My Friends, Mark

Worked on first of two main mast stays (both port and starboard) - pretty happy with the result.  After I get the port one fashioned up will probably need to start on the ratlines.  Not too many.

Had to find (make) my 'Put'r There 3000' for actually rigging - especially to tie them up at the cleats.  With the meat hooks I have for fingers only way to go.  My essential tools in addition to this for rigging are two fly typing clamps (need more), hemostats and my vise for holding the clamps when possibly.  Could also throw in my magnifying glass(s).  Peepers just aren't the same as before.

I am approaching this rigging as have some fun while doing stuff.  So.....while I do look at suggested rigging thicknesses I also look at my supply and choose what I think would work.  Having the blocks on hand showed the ones I chose that had to go through the blocks had to fit.  Color selections are entirely on me (very liberating).  I did decide early on that I was going to settle on two sizes of blocks from Syren for ease (and cost).  My calculations over the whole ship showed 186  blocks required (single, double, triple - both sizes).  The 1/8" were the smallest I wanted so therefore that and 3/16's were the answer.
 
Having fun so will keep at it,  -Mark

I will add a pic of something this is a better thing added in the newer instructions - Belaying pin identification.  The older instructions just have numbers shown on which pin to attach to.  The new ones have the same, but a separate breakout that identifies by name what is what.

There are two pin out diagrams for the upper works.  The above shows one of each.  There are a total of 219 attachment points identified between the two diagrams.   -Mark
 

I agree they are newer versions.  Just interesting that they occupy really the same real estate (same size paper) but for some reason it was decided to modify how presented. 
 
I believe the instructions are adequate for the model as built.  Giving a heads up to people getting this kit of the differences out there. 

I currently have 3 kits of the 1/96 Revell Constitution.  The original was started by my Father prior to his passing that I have recently pulled out to finish.  The other two I have picked up for missing and / or extra parts in the build (warpage, etc).  What I didn't expect to see was the difference in rigging instructions.  The good news is that essentially they say the same thing, one set goes about it more verbally while the other set is more visually based (this set also had separate sheets for with or without sails).  I provide the following comparisons:
 

I actually see them as complimentary, though I give the edge to the (I believe older) set that is more visual.  Drawing out each mast separately keeps the whoops factor minimized.  Just throwing this out there for other 1/96 Revell builders for their information.
 
Mark

Worked on first of two main mast stays (both port and starboard) - pretty happy with the result.  After I get the port one fashioned up will probably need to start on the ratlines.  Not too many.

Had to find (make) my 'Put'r There 3000' for actually rigging - especially to tie them up at the cleats.  With the meat hooks I have for fingers only way to go.  My essential tools in addition to this for rigging are two fly typing clamps (need more), hemostats and my vise for holding the clamps when possibly.  Could also throw in my magnifying glass(s).  Peepers just aren't the same as before.

I am approaching this rigging as have some fun while doing stuff.  So.....while I do look at suggested rigging thicknesses I also look at my supply and choose what I think would work.  Having the blocks on hand showed the ones I chose that had to go through the blocks had to fit.  Color selections are entirely on me (very liberating).  I did decide early on that I was going to settle on two sizes of blocks from Syren for ease (and cost).  My calculations over the whole ship showed 186  blocks required (single, double, triple - both sizes).  The 1/8" were the smallest I wanted so therefore that and 3/16's were the answer.
 
Having fun so will keep at it,  -Mark

Worked on first of two main mast stays (both port and starboard) - pretty happy with the result.  After I get the port one fashioned up will probably need to start on the ratlines.  Not too many.

Had to find (make) my 'Put'r There 3000' for actually rigging - especially to tie them up at the cleats.  With the meat hooks I have for fingers only way to go.  My essential tools in addition to this for rigging are two fly typing clamps (need more), hemostats and my vise for holding the clamps when possibly.  Could also throw in my magnifying glass(s).  Peepers just aren't the same as before.

I am approaching this rigging as have some fun while doing stuff.  So.....while I do look at suggested rigging thicknesses I also look at my supply and choose what I think would work.  Having the blocks on hand showed the ones I chose that had to go through the blocks had to fit.  Color selections are entirely on me (very liberating).  I did decide early on that I was going to settle on two sizes of blocks from Syren for ease (and cost).  My calculations over the whole ship showed 186  blocks required (single, double, triple - both sizes).  The 1/8" were the smallest I wanted so therefore that and 3/16's were the answer.
 
Having fun so will keep at it,  -Mark

So, got to this point today. Just 2 running backstays left on the foremast. 

So, got to this point today. Just 2 running backstays left on the foremast. 

So, got to this point today. Just 2 running backstays left on the foremast. 

I need to up my game as I go forward. Currently Going through entire Ashley book of knots to ID potentially useful knots that I can use at scale.   Then will make a cheat sheet for use. 
 
First question is how best to attach blocks to bolts affixed in deck (limited access) for last remaining backstay.  Pondering snipping small gap at base to allow slipping on stropped block constructed off ship. 
Mark

Much better......

Much better......

I need to up my game as I go forward. Currently Going through entire Ashley book of knots to ID potentially useful knots that I can use at scale.   Then will make a cheat sheet for use. 
 
First question is how best to attach blocks to bolts affixed in deck (limited access) for last remaining backstay.  Pondering snipping small gap at base to allow slipping on stropped block constructed off ship. 
Mark

Thanks Martin.   Thinking about the diluted white glue. Will see how it looks. 

thread type made a huge difference
 
Mark

I know the twisting is a common issue.  I have tried quite a few things today, insuring the tension is uniform across all 3 threads, no thread is caught up in its hole, etc.  I even wet the threads to see if any small fuzz was hampering.
 
One thing I did find interesting is that if I do get the tension just right (basically very little) (or very slack) the deadeyes will align themselves correctly.  However the shroud is quite loose.  If you pull up on the shroud the upper deadeye will immediately start twisting around 1x, 2x, etc.  Release the tension and it returns to the original startup.
 
I know wood and most things hull, but this rigging stuff is a learning curve.  I need to figure this out before I proceed.
 
I am going to try some different thread and see if that helps any.
 
BINGO:  went with a same diameter but more 'waxy' thread and everything is behaving as it should.  It makes sense but can't say I totally expected this.  Phew.  I need to redo all the shrouds but that is okay.  Better product in the end.

Much better......

Here is the way I thread the lanyards: I build a jig (see below). It needs to be tight to the deadeye, or you can use a very thin shim to hold it in place. Once the threading is done, I paint the lanyards and the deadeyes with a clear matte varnish or diluted white glue. Thus everything stays in place and ready to mount on the channels and on the shrouds.

My view is that the 'Harvey' configuration is the default basic kit way to recreate the look (less complexity).  When the rigging in total is viewed, you can definitely make this assumption.
 
The running backstay seems more accurate and befitting such a ship so that is what I will use.  For the orphaned deadeye I will just punt and wait until all the standing rigging is complete and then ponder what would look best.
 
Thanks for the comments!   -Mark

So...coming up to a decision point and I throw it out for suggestions on what course to follow.
 
The original 'Harvey' had two (2) fixed backstays off of the foremast.  This was built before the grand awakening and change of direction.


These directly attached to the two fixed points above the mast cap

 
The 'opportunity' before me is that on the Pride of Baltimore II they only used one, with the second backstay being a running variety and fixed inboard of the bulwarks.  I do have these connection points established on the hull.

 
So what do I do with the second backstay deadeye? 
 
My current thoughts are to go with the PoBII configuration and not use the deadeye.  I will have to throw some rigging on it to connect to the railing or something to avoid the inevitable - "Looks like you forgot something" (hey - actually think someone will look closely at this when done haha).  My rationale is that this is a working ship and each captain has their own druthers on rigging.  So.....the latest guy decided he liked a running backstay better.  I could also just remove the deadeye and leave the hardware (damage at sea? LOL).
 
Any other thoughts out there?     -Mark