kruginmi

Spent some more time working away at the topmast.  Not a huge leap forward in the build but visually it is really making a difference.
 
The sheaves (3) were added to the topmast itself.  Two on the bottom section for the top ropes and one in the top section.  Probably still some more shaping to come.  The fid was attached, the bottom section of the topmast shaped and then two 'fillers' added to insure the topmast is centered in the trestletree hole.
 

 
For the sheaves I needed to figure out what size hole needed to be drilled for the rigging.  I have currently selected a crochet thread for the rigging.  
 

 
Next up is similar treatment of the topgallant mast then focus on the platform.
 

 
Plugging away, learning a ton and most importantly having a lot of fun.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

After dropping my son off this morning at 5:30 (AM!) at High School for sports stuff I decided to take the time I had and do some research on the trestle trees - I surely hoped I didn't need to rebuild these!  The norm for British design during this time was to have the mast centered between the trestle trees supports (but not touching).  French design was much closer to what I was seeing but....this was originally a continental ship so all bets are off, who knows how the person was trained who originally built this ship.  The issue was having sufficient clearance for the shrouds through the lubbers hole.
 
I decided to go back and re-verify I had not messed up in my construction, starting with the masting plans for the top:
 

 
Now these were drawn up for the cargo ship, not the as converted British sloop of war. The hole for the mast was just that, it could only fit the mast.  No more offset possible for the shrouds to clear the rear support.  Next up was looking closer at the one rigging picture supplied by Mr. Hahn (for the British conversion):
 

 
Again, the trestle support is seen to push up against the rear of the mast.  Also the 5 shroud lines are drawn to go in front of this support.  So...I didn't mess up.  The question is whether or not the shrouds will clear the lubbers hole cleanly in a neat and orderly way, without applying undue stress on this support.
 
My conclusion:  Keep going as I have built.  I would also keep the lubbers hold sized in the top itself as previously shown, exposing the trestle support.  This was reinforced with looking at 'Historic Ship Models' by Mr. Mondfeld which shows a pic of such an example.  

Spent some more time working away at the topmast.  Not a huge leap forward in the build but visually it is really making a difference.
 
The sheaves (3) were added to the topmast itself.  Two on the bottom section for the top ropes and one in the top section.  Probably still some more shaping to come.  The fid was attached, the bottom section of the topmast shaped and then two 'fillers' added to insure the topmast is centered in the trestletree hole.
 

 
For the sheaves I needed to figure out what size hole needed to be drilled for the rigging.  I have currently selected a crochet thread for the rigging.  
 

 
Next up is similar treatment of the topgallant mast then focus on the platform.
 

 
Plugging away, learning a ton and most importantly having a lot of fun.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Sweet work on the masting, Mark.

Spent some more time working away at the topmast.  Not a huge leap forward in the build but visually it is really making a difference.
 
The sheaves (3) were added to the topmast itself.  Two on the bottom section for the top ropes and one in the top section.  Probably still some more shaping to come.  The fid was attached, the bottom section of the topmast shaped and then two 'fillers' added to insure the topmast is centered in the trestletree hole.
 

 
For the sheaves I needed to figure out what size hole needed to be drilled for the rigging.  I have currently selected a crochet thread for the rigging.  
 

 
Next up is similar treatment of the topgallant mast then focus on the platform.
 

 
Plugging away, learning a ton and most importantly having a lot of fun.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Spent some more time working away at the topmast.  Not a huge leap forward in the build but visually it is really making a difference.
 
The sheaves (3) were added to the topmast itself.  Two on the bottom section for the top ropes and one in the top section.  Probably still some more shaping to come.  The fid was attached, the bottom section of the topmast shaped and then two 'fillers' added to insure the topmast is centered in the trestletree hole.
 

 
For the sheaves I needed to figure out what size hole needed to be drilled for the rigging.  I have currently selected a crochet thread for the rigging.  
 

 
Next up is similar treatment of the topgallant mast then focus on the platform.
 

 
Plugging away, learning a ton and most importantly having a lot of fun.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Spent some more time working away at the topmast.  Not a huge leap forward in the build but visually it is really making a difference.
 
The sheaves (3) were added to the topmast itself.  Two on the bottom section for the top ropes and one in the top section.  Probably still some more shaping to come.  The fid was attached, the bottom section of the topmast shaped and then two 'fillers' added to insure the topmast is centered in the trestletree hole.
 

 
For the sheaves I needed to figure out what size hole needed to be drilled for the rigging.  I have currently selected a crochet thread for the rigging.  
 

 
Next up is similar treatment of the topgallant mast then focus on the platform.
 

 
Plugging away, learning a ton and most importantly having a lot of fun.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Spent some more time working away at the topmast.  Not a huge leap forward in the build but visually it is really making a difference.
 
The sheaves (3) were added to the topmast itself.  Two on the bottom section for the top ropes and one in the top section.  Probably still some more shaping to come.  The fid was attached, the bottom section of the topmast shaped and then two 'fillers' added to insure the topmast is centered in the trestletree hole.
 

 
For the sheaves I needed to figure out what size hole needed to be drilled for the rigging.  I have currently selected a crochet thread for the rigging.  
 

 
Next up is similar treatment of the topgallant mast then focus on the platform.
 

 
Plugging away, learning a ton and most importantly having a lot of fun.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Spent some more time working away at the topmast.  Not a huge leap forward in the build but visually it is really making a difference.
 
The sheaves (3) were added to the topmast itself.  Two on the bottom section for the top ropes and one in the top section.  Probably still some more shaping to come.  The fid was attached, the bottom section of the topmast shaped and then two 'fillers' added to insure the topmast is centered in the trestletree hole.
 

 
For the sheaves I needed to figure out what size hole needed to be drilled for the rigging.  I have currently selected a crochet thread for the rigging.  
 

 
Next up is similar treatment of the topgallant mast then focus on the platform.
 

 
Plugging away, learning a ton and most importantly having a lot of fun.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Looking great, Mark. Won't be long now and the rigging will start; particularly given all the prep work and research you've been doing.

Spent some more time working away at the topmast.  Not a huge leap forward in the build but visually it is really making a difference.
 
The sheaves (3) were added to the topmast itself.  Two on the bottom section for the top ropes and one in the top section.  Probably still some more shaping to come.  The fid was attached, the bottom section of the topmast shaped and then two 'fillers' added to insure the topmast is centered in the trestletree hole.
 

 
For the sheaves I needed to figure out what size hole needed to be drilled for the rigging.  I have currently selected a crochet thread for the rigging.  
 

 
Next up is similar treatment of the topgallant mast then focus on the platform.
 

 
Plugging away, learning a ton and most importantly having a lot of fun.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Spent some more time working away at the topmast.  Not a huge leap forward in the build but visually it is really making a difference.
 
The sheaves (3) were added to the topmast itself.  Two on the bottom section for the top ropes and one in the top section.  Probably still some more shaping to come.  The fid was attached, the bottom section of the topmast shaped and then two 'fillers' added to insure the topmast is centered in the trestletree hole.
 

 
For the sheaves I needed to figure out what size hole needed to be drilled for the rigging.  I have currently selected a crochet thread for the rigging.  
 

 
Next up is similar treatment of the topgallant mast then focus on the platform.
 

 
Plugging away, learning a ton and most importantly having a lot of fun.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Spent some more time working away at the topmast.  Not a huge leap forward in the build but visually it is really making a difference.
 
The sheaves (3) were added to the topmast itself.  Two on the bottom section for the top ropes and one in the top section.  Probably still some more shaping to come.  The fid was attached, the bottom section of the topmast shaped and then two 'fillers' added to insure the topmast is centered in the trestletree hole.
 

 
For the sheaves I needed to figure out what size hole needed to be drilled for the rigging.  I have currently selected a crochet thread for the rigging.  
 

 
Next up is similar treatment of the topgallant mast then focus on the platform.
 

 
Plugging away, learning a ton and most importantly having a lot of fun.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Spent some more time working away at the topmast.  Not a huge leap forward in the build but visually it is really making a difference.
 
The sheaves (3) were added to the topmast itself.  Two on the bottom section for the top ropes and one in the top section.  Probably still some more shaping to come.  The fid was attached, the bottom section of the topmast shaped and then two 'fillers' added to insure the topmast is centered in the trestletree hole.
 

 
For the sheaves I needed to figure out what size hole needed to be drilled for the rigging.  I have currently selected a crochet thread for the rigging.  
 

 
Next up is similar treatment of the topgallant mast then focus on the platform.
 

 
Plugging away, learning a ton and most importantly having a lot of fun.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Hello Sam,
 
thank you for your questions. I think the captain would't clean anything, he had his servants for such things. To play music or anything els, he had his great cabin, with a balcony! 
 
The work at the shipyard delayed a litte, because I have bought a Black Forrest clock and have there some things to fix. So don't worry, I will be back soon.
 
Regards,
Siggi

Good morning,
 
thank you all for your kind comments. 
 
Regards,
Siggi

Well my followers, I am sorry that I have been gone for so long. Doing all the fun "adult" stuff and with some screwy hours and setbacks. Getting back on the horse again, and slowly making progress on Mary.
 
Had to rebuild half the keel, got that done and also painted now.
 
Mostly have been making frames for the ribs of the hull. In the enclosed photo you will see a nearly completed stern plate that will be mounted to the keel after I re-install the deadwood.

Definitely a fan of another Basswood modeler!  Looks like you are off to a solid start and have a great subject to model.
 
I will be watching as she comes to shape.
 
Mark

I know the decision is already made but have to interject that basswood can be used pretty effectively and has a bad rap that is a bit unjustified.  My fully framed Druid is 95% basswood.  Now it is 1/48th scale but.....I don't think I have done a disservice by her.  The smaller details which require details and / or strength (figurehead, railings) were done with boxwood - the other 5%.
 
The original question for me was cost and availability - if not basswood it would never have occurred.  However after completing it, I am very comfortable with the selection of basswood again - albeit this time with paint for some color.
 
If you can afford it or have access go ahead and choose what you want.  However, if you want to build and have budget concerns feel free to use basswood.
 
Mark

I know the decision is already made but have to interject that basswood can be used pretty effectively and has a bad rap that is a bit unjustified.  My fully framed Druid is 95% basswood.  Now it is 1/48th scale but.....I don't think I have done a disservice by her.  The smaller details which require details and / or strength (figurehead, railings) were done with boxwood - the other 5%.
 
The original question for me was cost and availability - if not basswood it would never have occurred.  However after completing it, I am very comfortable with the selection of basswood again - albeit this time with paint for some color.
 
If you can afford it or have access go ahead and choose what you want.  However, if you want to build and have budget concerns feel free to use basswood.
 
Mark

I know the decision is already made but have to interject that basswood can be used pretty effectively and has a bad rap that is a bit unjustified.  My fully framed Druid is 95% basswood.  Now it is 1/48th scale but.....I don't think I have done a disservice by her.  The smaller details which require details and / or strength (figurehead, railings) were done with boxwood - the other 5%.
 
The original question for me was cost and availability - if not basswood it would never have occurred.  However after completing it, I am very comfortable with the selection of basswood again - albeit this time with paint for some color.
 
If you can afford it or have access go ahead and choose what you want.  However, if you want to build and have budget concerns feel free to use basswood.
 
Mark

A little work today to transform the main mast rough in into a more finished look:
 

 
Added bolsters, metal hoops and then the wood strips to give ventilation to the shroud lines.  I still need the fid for the the topmast and to smooth over some right angles off of the cap (not to mention some eyebolts), but it didn't take a whole lot to polish it up.
 
I used walnut for the bolsters because I found a piece in the scrap bin that was the right dimensions.  Everything will be painted black.
 
The metal hoops was a piece of black scrap booking paper cut to size and glued on - single layer.
 
I had originally cut the top to fit tightly to the back of the mast (and cover the underneath support).  Putting the bolster in (length defined on the plans) however did not allow the top to be added.  The forward part of the bolster had to allow the fid to be affixed.  So.....I cut away a portion of the top inner hole for it to clear the bolsters.  
 

 
THE QUESTION: Is this correct?  I need to pull some books and scratch my head some more.
 
Mark

After dropping my son off this morning at 5:30 (AM!) at High School for sports stuff I decided to take the time I had and do some research on the trestle trees - I surely hoped I didn't need to rebuild these!  The norm for British design during this time was to have the mast centered between the trestle trees supports (but not touching).  French design was much closer to what I was seeing but....this was originally a continental ship so all bets are off, who knows how the person was trained who originally built this ship.  The issue was having sufficient clearance for the shrouds through the lubbers hole.
 
I decided to go back and re-verify I had not messed up in my construction, starting with the masting plans for the top:
 

 
Now these were drawn up for the cargo ship, not the as converted British sloop of war. The hole for the mast was just that, it could only fit the mast.  No more offset possible for the shrouds to clear the rear support.  Next up was looking closer at the one rigging picture supplied by Mr. Hahn (for the British conversion):
 

 
Again, the trestle support is seen to push up against the rear of the mast.  Also the 5 shroud lines are drawn to go in front of this support.  So...I didn't mess up.  The question is whether or not the shrouds will clear the lubbers hole cleanly in a neat and orderly way, without applying undue stress on this support.
 
My conclusion:  Keep going as I have built.  I would also keep the lubbers hold sized in the top itself as previously shown, exposing the trestle support.  This was reinforced with looking at 'Historic Ship Models' by Mr. Mondfeld which shows a pic of such an example.  

After dropping my son off this morning at 5:30 (AM!) at High School for sports stuff I decided to take the time I had and do some research on the trestle trees - I surely hoped I didn't need to rebuild these!  The norm for British design during this time was to have the mast centered between the trestle trees supports (but not touching).  French design was much closer to what I was seeing but....this was originally a continental ship so all bets are off, who knows how the person was trained who originally built this ship.  The issue was having sufficient clearance for the shrouds through the lubbers hole.
 
I decided to go back and re-verify I had not messed up in my construction, starting with the masting plans for the top:
 

 
Now these were drawn up for the cargo ship, not the as converted British sloop of war. The hole for the mast was just that, it could only fit the mast.  No more offset possible for the shrouds to clear the rear support.  Next up was looking closer at the one rigging picture supplied by Mr. Hahn (for the British conversion):
 

 
Again, the trestle support is seen to push up against the rear of the mast.  Also the 5 shroud lines are drawn to go in front of this support.  So...I didn't mess up.  The question is whether or not the shrouds will clear the lubbers hole cleanly in a neat and orderly way, without applying undue stress on this support.
 
My conclusion:  Keep going as I have built.  I would also keep the lubbers hold sized in the top itself as previously shown, exposing the trestle support.  This was reinforced with looking at 'Historic Ship Models' by Mr. Mondfeld which shows a pic of such an example.  

A little work today to transform the main mast rough in into a more finished look:
 

 
Added bolsters, metal hoops and then the wood strips to give ventilation to the shroud lines.  I still need the fid for the the topmast and to smooth over some right angles off of the cap (not to mention some eyebolts), but it didn't take a whole lot to polish it up.
 
I used walnut for the bolsters because I found a piece in the scrap bin that was the right dimensions.  Everything will be painted black.
 
The metal hoops was a piece of black scrap booking paper cut to size and glued on - single layer.
 
I had originally cut the top to fit tightly to the back of the mast (and cover the underneath support).  Putting the bolster in (length defined on the plans) however did not allow the top to be added.  The forward part of the bolster had to allow the fid to be affixed.  So.....I cut away a portion of the top inner hole for it to clear the bolsters.  
 

 
THE QUESTION: Is this correct?  I need to pull some books and scratch my head some more.
 
Mark