kruginmi

Thanks for all the likes and words of confidence.  This is just something I have to learn to live with, probably won't be my last!
 
Focused on getting the thickstuff in the hold.  With all the work to define where the futtock joins are (and thus the thickstuff placement) I am a lot happier with the result than the first go round.
 


 
Next up is to use add the adjoining layer (3/32" basswood) next to the thick stuff (1/8" basswood).  Regular planks will be with 1/16" basswood.  I should have the lower hold buttoned up within two weeks.  The exterior hull will also be totally planked.
 
Sure feels good when you cut something for one side of the build and it also fits perfectly on the opposite side.
 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark

Thanks Eamonn and all the likes,
 
Still slogging ahead as time allows.  I have attached all three strakes of the wales both port and starboard.
 

 
I am still using the extra deep slotted keel jig for holding everything together.  I have also opted to skip the frame spacers.  Using another deep slotted keel jig I insured correct spacing and glued the wales (freezing the frame spacing) then removed the slotted jig.  Fairing has occurred only over the wales area - which was pretty easy.  Now that the frame has been stiffened I can easily fair the rest (externally).
 

 
Next up will be removing the frame spreaders and then work on the internal fairing.
 

 
As is evident in the pics this will not take too much time.  Very soon start affixing the thick stuff in the hold.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

This 'step' is coming up soon (pun intended) and I ask for some recommendations.
 
The ship plans only show the mast step from the side:
 

 
This shows a step on the keelson that appears to be parallel the keelson.  Note that the forward well wall pushes against the forward part of the step (no space for wedges).  For my full ship model oh so many years ago I made my best guess at how to do this:
 

 
From other builds (and the TFFM) the steps tend to lie perpendicular to the keelson with wedges forward and aft on the keelson to affix at a particular spot.  I am leaning towards using this perpendicular step and not what I did on the original build.
 
Thoughts?  Again, this was originally an American built cargo vessel from 1774.
 
Mark

Getting back into it means re-igniting a lot of brain cells and old memories.  Returning to the hull I spent a few hours sanding (and more sanding) (and more sanding) to get the whole hull trued up inside and out - primarily on the upper untouched surfaces.  I think I am now pretty close.
 
Using the power of the Hahn method, transferring the plan key points to the hull was done quickly and very accurately.  This included the top railing location (cut off point from the jig), gun and forecastle deck beams, and the four gun ports included in this cross section:
 

 
The biggest lines to add are the main chains, which I need to use another sheet of the plans to locate.  My next jobs are to cut and insert the gun port linings and also add the other deck clamps.  This will allow me to add the actual deck beams and get the mast footing in and all lined up.
 
As a side project I am starting to think through the crew.  This will not be a sterile cross section.  I got for last Christmas the following 1/48 figures:
 

 
My initial list shows the following requirements:
Cannon Crew:  3 figures
Officer:  2 figures
Deck Scrubber:  1 figure
Rigger on Spar:  2 figures
Ratline climbers:  2 figures
Person in hold:  1 figure
People in hammocks:  2 figures
 
Am I missing anyone?  That would be 13 figures.  I am going to sort through the 36 figures (2 of each pictured) and start defining who will be used for what.  There will be amputations, putty and maybe even some molded parts.  A nice side project when things are drying.
 
Another consideration I have to figure out sooner than later is what type of paint to use (and also primer).  This will be a painted ship.  The hull will be yellow and black (blue accents), gun deck red (except the floor), everything below deck white.  Mast will be white with Black tops.  I will need to start doing some experimentation on some extra basswood.
 
I need to get the wales black before adding additional planking next to it - much easier.  Still undecided on coppering the bottom or just painting white.
 
That is enough for now,
Mark

Getting back into it means re-igniting a lot of brain cells and old memories.  Returning to the hull I spent a few hours sanding (and more sanding) (and more sanding) to get the whole hull trued up inside and out - primarily on the upper untouched surfaces.  I think I am now pretty close.
 
Using the power of the Hahn method, transferring the plan key points to the hull was done quickly and very accurately.  This included the top railing location (cut off point from the jig), gun and forecastle deck beams, and the four gun ports included in this cross section:
 

 
The biggest lines to add are the main chains, which I need to use another sheet of the plans to locate.  My next jobs are to cut and insert the gun port linings and also add the other deck clamps.  This will allow me to add the actual deck beams and get the mast footing in and all lined up.
 
As a side project I am starting to think through the crew.  This will not be a sterile cross section.  I got for last Christmas the following 1/48 figures:
 

 
My initial list shows the following requirements:
Cannon Crew:  3 figures
Officer:  2 figures
Deck Scrubber:  1 figure
Rigger on Spar:  2 figures
Ratline climbers:  2 figures
Person in hold:  1 figure
People in hammocks:  2 figures
 
Am I missing anyone?  That would be 13 figures.  I am going to sort through the 36 figures (2 of each pictured) and start defining who will be used for what.  There will be amputations, putty and maybe even some molded parts.  A nice side project when things are drying.
 
Another consideration I have to figure out sooner than later is what type of paint to use (and also primer).  This will be a painted ship.  The hull will be yellow and black (blue accents), gun deck red (except the floor), everything below deck white.  Mast will be white with Black tops.  I will need to start doing some experimentation on some extra basswood.
 
I need to get the wales black before adding additional planking next to it - much easier.  Still undecided on coppering the bottom or just painting white.
 
That is enough for now,
Mark

Excuse me while I get my sea legs again.....but with the start of fall my workshop has come alive again.
 
I wanted to start with something smaller, so opted for the mast top supports.  Nothing too huge or taxing but it did involve careful measuring and a couple of slots....
 

 
The whole mast will be primed and painted - the mast head black.  Doesn't look too shabby for something that will be almost totally hidden before everything is done!  It is still totally removable for work on the platform.
 

 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark

Thanks for asking Patrick.  Finished my third (and last) ~Olympic Triathlon of the season two weeks ago.  Hung up my bike at least for this year.  Pretty happy with my results, now to get flabby (and modeling) again.  I need to be in some sort of shape to deal with the two teenagers in the house - so much drama.
 
Mark

Excuse me while I get my sea legs again.....but with the start of fall my workshop has come alive again.
 
I wanted to start with something smaller, so opted for the mast top supports.  Nothing too huge or taxing but it did involve careful measuring and a couple of slots....
 

 
The whole mast will be primed and painted - the mast head black.  Doesn't look too shabby for something that will be almost totally hidden before everything is done!  It is still totally removable for work on the platform.
 

 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark

Excuse me while I get my sea legs again.....but with the start of fall my workshop has come alive again.
 
I wanted to start with something smaller, so opted for the mast top supports.  Nothing too huge or taxing but it did involve careful measuring and a couple of slots....
 

 
The whole mast will be primed and painted - the mast head black.  Doesn't look too shabby for something that will be almost totally hidden before everything is done!  It is still totally removable for work on the platform.
 

 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark

Hi Mark
 
You definitely have my respect! Speaking of bikes, last week I placed an order for a new road bike. Should be a dream to ride, but, I wouldn't have a hope in hell of keeping up with you.
 
I hope your health stays good and all the best!
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Thanks for asking Patrick.  Finished my third (and last) ~Olympic Triathlon of the season two weeks ago.  Hung up my bike at least for this year.  Pretty happy with my results, now to get flabby (and modeling) again.  I need to be in some sort of shape to deal with the two teenagers in the house - so much drama.
 
Mark

Thanks for asking Patrick.  Finished my third (and last) ~Olympic Triathlon of the season two weeks ago.  Hung up my bike at least for this year.  Pretty happy with my results, now to get flabby (and modeling) again.  I need to be in some sort of shape to deal with the two teenagers in the house - so much drama.
 
Mark

Excuse me while I get my sea legs again.....but with the start of fall my workshop has come alive again.
 
I wanted to start with something smaller, so opted for the mast top supports.  Nothing too huge or taxing but it did involve careful measuring and a couple of slots....
 

 
The whole mast will be primed and painted - the mast head black.  Doesn't look too shabby for something that will be almost totally hidden before everything is done!  It is still totally removable for work on the platform.
 

 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark

Thanks for asking Patrick.  Finished my third (and last) ~Olympic Triathlon of the season two weeks ago.  Hung up my bike at least for this year.  Pretty happy with my results, now to get flabby (and modeling) again.  I need to be in some sort of shape to deal with the two teenagers in the house - so much drama.
 
Mark

Excuse me while I get my sea legs again.....but with the start of fall my workshop has come alive again.
 
I wanted to start with something smaller, so opted for the mast top supports.  Nothing too huge or taxing but it did involve careful measuring and a couple of slots....
 

 
The whole mast will be primed and painted - the mast head black.  Doesn't look too shabby for something that will be almost totally hidden before everything is done!  It is still totally removable for work on the platform.
 

 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark

Good to see you back, Mark!
 
Nice work as always!
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Excuse me while I get my sea legs again.....but with the start of fall my workshop has come alive again.
 
I wanted to start with something smaller, so opted for the mast top supports.  Nothing too huge or taxing but it did involve careful measuring and a couple of slots....
 

 
The whole mast will be primed and painted - the mast head black.  Doesn't look too shabby for something that will be almost totally hidden before everything is done!  It is still totally removable for work on the platform.
 

 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark

Excuse me while I get my sea legs again.....but with the start of fall my workshop has come alive again.
 
I wanted to start with something smaller, so opted for the mast top supports.  Nothing too huge or taxing but it did involve careful measuring and a couple of slots....
 

 
The whole mast will be primed and painted - the mast head black.  Doesn't look too shabby for something that will be almost totally hidden before everything is done!  It is still totally removable for work on the platform.
 

 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark

Excuse me while I get my sea legs again.....but with the start of fall my workshop has come alive again.
 
I wanted to start with something smaller, so opted for the mast top supports.  Nothing too huge or taxing but it did involve careful measuring and a couple of slots....
 

 
The whole mast will be primed and painted - the mast head black.  Doesn't look too shabby for something that will be almost totally hidden before everything is done!  It is still totally removable for work on the platform.
 

 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark

Excuse me while I get my sea legs again.....but with the start of fall my workshop has come alive again.
 
I wanted to start with something smaller, so opted for the mast top supports.  Nothing too huge or taxing but it did involve careful measuring and a couple of slots....
 

 
The whole mast will be primed and painted - the mast head black.  Doesn't look too shabby for something that will be almost totally hidden before everything is done!  It is still totally removable for work on the platform.
 

 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark

Excuse me while I get my sea legs again.....but with the start of fall my workshop has come alive again.
 
I wanted to start with something smaller, so opted for the mast top supports.  Nothing too huge or taxing but it did involve careful measuring and a couple of slots....
 

 
The whole mast will be primed and painted - the mast head black.  Doesn't look too shabby for something that will be almost totally hidden before everything is done!  It is still totally removable for work on the platform.
 

 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark

This 'step' is coming up soon (pun intended) and I ask for some recommendations.
 
The ship plans only show the mast step from the side:
 

 
This shows a step on the keelson that appears to be parallel the keelson.  Note that the forward well wall pushes against the forward part of the step (no space for wedges).  For my full ship model oh so many years ago I made my best guess at how to do this:
 

 
From other builds (and the TFFM) the steps tend to lie perpendicular to the keelson with wedges forward and aft on the keelson to affix at a particular spot.  I am leaning towards using this perpendicular step and not what I did on the original build.
 
Thoughts?  Again, this was originally an American built cargo vessel from 1774.
 
Mark

Like the idea, if you could include the spar deck beams under that plastic, it would add to the effect you are attempting to obtain. The plastic over the spar deck beams could be used  to support partial sections of the deck beams. Start them all, but cut most back at random intervels leaving only a few full width. Can you soften the lighting in the forward area? Sorry if I sound critical, not my intent, I think you are doing a fanstac job. The intent of my coments is intended to be constructive only. You have demonstraited that my sugestions are well within your abilities, should you find them worthy of consideration.
jud

On to the bibs.  One lesson learned I have taken to heart is when working with a complex mating surface (ie non straight) I do not cut the whole part to shape and hope for the best.  I always have to file a little here, scrape a little there with the result being the constructed piece is just a little 'off' on one face or another.  This is especially true for me for stems.
 
So, I focus on one edge at a time, starting with the mating edge required.  The target shape was cut out of the mast join and then (supposedly) transferred to the oversized piece and cut out:
 

 
Once the join was satisfactory I marked and cut out the top edge, insuring it totally aligned with the bib top on the mast.
 

 
Now the curving part is easy (compared to the rest).  The curves where drawn out, cut and sanded.  Before gluing I produced the other bib piece (marking the finished one with which side it belongs to FIRST).  Replicating the curve was much easier piece to piece off ship.  After all that work (maybe two hours in the workshop) I glued the bib pieces on.
 

 
Looking at the plans for  the two thousandth time afterwards I did realize the bibs were not only supposed to support the top beam but also slightly go into the topmast space.  Initially you wonder how the heck that happened.  I finally opted to laminate a 1/32" piece of basswood on the inside face for this issue.  The top will be painted (black) and it will be basically invisible (unless pointed out, which I try not to do).  So, reprieve and lesson learned for the next mast down the road.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

On to the bibs.  One lesson learned I have taken to heart is when working with a complex mating surface (ie non straight) I do not cut the whole part to shape and hope for the best.  I always have to file a little here, scrape a little there with the result being the constructed piece is just a little 'off' on one face or another.  This is especially true for me for stems.
 
So, I focus on one edge at a time, starting with the mating edge required.  The target shape was cut out of the mast join and then (supposedly) transferred to the oversized piece and cut out:
 

 
Once the join was satisfactory I marked and cut out the top edge, insuring it totally aligned with the bib top on the mast.
 

 
Now the curving part is easy (compared to the rest).  The curves where drawn out, cut and sanded.  Before gluing I produced the other bib piece (marking the finished one with which side it belongs to FIRST).  Replicating the curve was much easier piece to piece off ship.  After all that work (maybe two hours in the workshop) I glued the bib pieces on.
 

 
Looking at the plans for  the two thousandth time afterwards I did realize the bibs were not only supposed to support the top beam but also slightly go into the topmast space.  Initially you wonder how the heck that happened.  I finally opted to laminate a 1/32" piece of basswood on the inside face for this issue.  The top will be painted (black) and it will be basically invisible (unless pointed out, which I try not to do).  So, reprieve and lesson learned for the next mast down the road.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark