AndyG

A pile of work with the 'long board', though! Y'see, I'm all for an easy life ... I was wondering if I could save time and cut the frames almost completely pre-bevelled during manufacture. Has anyone tried this, or would I be attempting to hit 'stupid' levels of accuracy? Andy

Hi everyone! First, the background to my questions: I'm drawing up plans for a large sailing model of an Elizabethan trading vessel, closely based on Brian Lavery's Susan Constant. I'm happy with the plans, but I see that the frames will be around 12mm wide (there will be about thirty in total, each made of two 6mm sub-frames, bonded together, with futtock joints offset on each sub-frame for strength). At 12mm wide, and especially as I near the bow and stern, the frames will clearly have to be shaped to accommodate the lines of the hull. Now, the frame shapes are individually defined by a number of 'control curves' (in 3d space) which determine the location of the centres of the floor sweeps, the beam sweeps and the toptimber line. I've made a spreadsheet of these three defining positions at each frames' station. So far, so good. Interpolating the control curves* for the +/-6mm measurements at the fore and aft edge of the frames, the three positions can be up to 7mm 'off' that of the station. Here are the questions! 1a/ Is it worth cutting the two subframes to shape following the largest shape required by that subframe, before frame assembly? 1b/ ...Or do I make each frame up to the largest shape required by that frame? 2/ Do I shape the frame off the boat or once in place? Common sense says 'once in place', as 'they would have', especially as large timbers might well sag a little under gravity. 3/ What's good practice for the inside edge of the frames? (These won't be on view, but there are always plus points for artistic merit!) Access will be 'ok' for power tools inside the hull once done, but the near-insane tumblehome will make it difficult. My woodworking skills aren't bad - but I'm aware tweaking will be required, and can see I might be overthinking this. Any suggestions will be gratefully taken on board. Andy * Parametric equations were used: I'm delighted to say that there were no serious injuries!

Patrick, this is a most beautiful build. Congratulations! Could you tell me what wood is being used for the frames and hull planking, and what finishes you've used on them? The end result is really wonderful. Many thanks, Andy

Mistletoe, sickles and oak come to mind when I think of druids. Lovely bit of carving work there! Andy

30kg, Steve. A launching trolley will be required! For my Racundra (same scale, smaller boat - and therefore a mere lightweight at 15kg) I melted down divers' weights into lead pigs of about 300g each. These were sized to fit between the frames. I've "glued" them in with a blob of mastic, just in case they ever need to come out again. Andy

Michael, thanks for the video - it is great to "see" you and the boat, properly at last! If I may make a couple of suggestions? Do not worry about over-running end-stops on powerful winches. I'm using a linear winch for my jib sheets on Racundra, powered by a geared-down 12V motor running off the output of an ESC. Certainly there's a pile more pull in it than I'll ever need: but microswitches at the "buffers" and a pair of cunningly wired diodes ensure that I can't ever drive the winch too far. At either limit you can only drive it back into range. Something like this would make certain that you couldn't sheet in too tightly (possibly the most damaging risk in your mainsheet requirements). Secondly - I will never use the above solution again! The reason is, I've recently been playing with microprocessors and stepper motors, and I am now utterly certain that the best way to handle sheets on an R/C sailing vessel is to turn it into "an exercise for the programmer". Many microprocessors (like the £35 Arduino that I'm using, and available just about anywhere) come with built-in abilities to read the signals normally sent to servos: that is, you can convert "stick position" into a variable. And with a few lines of code, you can convert that variable into a step-count used by any stepper motor driver. During conversion, you can adjust rates and proportions: create, for example, non-"linear" proportions. So your winch could tighten more slowly when nearly sheeted, loosen differently when sheeting out - really, just about anything you want. I think, if there's interest, this might deserve a thread of its own - not least because it is (I'm increasingly convinced) the best way to handle the bracing of yards in square sail model ships. Andy

Yes - these are sheet horses: it's a beam for a traveller (the metal hook) which carries a block for the sheet which runs to the bottom corner of the sail. It allows a better sail set when sailing close-hauled or running free. Do, please, get on the mend quickly - and continue with the build when you're able! Andy

Thing is, these workboats often had paint slapped over the decks. You'd not see wood (or caulking, for that matter) through a few mm of grey deck paint. Andy