glbarlow

Bumpkins, Completed Headworks
 
I’m nearly at a the finish line.


The bumpkins, were they drunk when they named these…, are completed and installed. Like a few others I couldn’t bring myself at this stage and in this tight area to drill thru and/or remove moulding, so I faked it as best I could. The brackets are added using black masking tape.

The figurehead, the young man, patiently waiting, playing his mandolin, in my cabinet for three years, is now permanently installed along with the extensions of the hair brackets that have waited with him
 
The model is now sitting on my pool table, temporarily on its soon to be home. I’m working on the lantern, not sure if I will include it or not, we’ll see. I’ll also dust, touchup, paint and buff where needed before the final photos.
 
Thanks for stopping by.

Bumpkins, Completed Headworks
 
I’m nearly at a the finish line.


The bumpkins, were they drunk when they named these…, are completed and installed. Like a few others I couldn’t bring myself at this stage and in this tight area to drill thru and/or remove moulding, so I faked it as best I could. The brackets are added using black masking tape.

The figurehead, the young man, patiently waiting, playing his mandolin, in my cabinet for three years, is now permanently installed along with the extensions of the hair brackets that have waited with him
 
The model is now sitting on my pool table, temporarily on its soon to be home. I’m working on the lantern, not sure if I will include it or not, we’ll see. I’ll also dust, touchup, paint and buff where needed before the final photos.
 
Thanks for stopping by.

Bumpkins, Completed Headworks
 
I’m nearly at a the finish line.


The bumpkins, were they drunk when they named these…, are completed and installed. Like a few others I couldn’t bring myself at this stage and in this tight area to drill thru and/or remove moulding, so I faked it as best I could. The brackets are added using black masking tape.

The figurehead, the young man, patiently waiting, playing his mandolin, in my cabinet for three years, is now permanently installed along with the extensions of the hair brackets that have waited with him
 
The model is now sitting on my pool table, temporarily on its soon to be home. I’m working on the lantern, not sure if I will include it or not, we’ll see. I’ll also dust, touchup, paint and buff where needed before the final photos.
 
Thanks for stopping by.

Bumpkins, Completed Headworks
 
I’m nearly at a the finish line.


The bumpkins, were they drunk when they named these…, are completed and installed. Like a few others I couldn’t bring myself at this stage and in this tight area to drill thru and/or remove moulding, so I faked it as best I could. The brackets are added using black masking tape.

The figurehead, the young man, patiently waiting, playing his mandolin, in my cabinet for three years, is now permanently installed along with the extensions of the hair brackets that have waited with him
 
The model is now sitting on my pool table, temporarily on its soon to be home. I’m working on the lantern, not sure if I will include it or not, we’ll see. I’ll also dust, touchup, paint and buff where needed before the final photos.
 
Thanks for stopping by.

Cathead Supports - Head Gratings & Poop Chutes
 
It’s been a minute. I have spent four months on Chapter 12, though the shop has been closed or not visited about half of that with travel and family time. It’s almost like I forgot the rest of model with my total focus on the small real estate forward of the bollard timbers for so long. Look, there are cannons back there.
 
Cathead Supports:
Tweaking. A word we modelers use a lot.  Not to be mistaken for Tweakers, which is a whole different thing. For me Chapter 12 has been a whole lot about tweaking. Tweaking taken to a whole other level.


Nothing much to add other than sand and shape, test fit, followed by more sand and shape, test fit, and repeat. I removed two levels of moulding at the bow to get a better fit. I so enjoy the trauma of removing it without destroying the hull finish or ripping up the friezes. Not to mention the fun of getting them back on inside what has become a tight space.
 
Head Gratings:
When I first saw photos of head gratings by those who went before me I wondered how it all fit together or more precisely how I’d fit it all together. More, a lot more, of the required tweaking is how. The gratings consist of 46 separate little pieces of wood, each and every one custom fitted one by one by one. It’s also when you learn just how important was the measuring, sizing, squaring up, leveling, and fitting done in Chapters 1-5.


There was a little variance I was able to account for by adjusting and sanding a few of the pieces, the goal is symmetry and visual match of the two sides, a little of here and there isn’t noticed. the important visual element being those first gratings either side of the bowsprit be equal-distant apart. It takes a great deal of time to make it all work, cutting each of those little pieces for a tight fit. It took a long while, but it’s worth it in the end.
 
Poop Chutes:
Speaking of taking time. While the forward two to just took a little squaring up to assemble I had to take care to center, align the height from the grating, and square them up to each other.

I made a simple jig to manage this, it worked out quite well. The lid sits above the jig side pieces to create a total height of 5/16. It, along with the front piece, squares it on all four sides and with its partner. I still have to think how challenging it would have been to use these on the high seas, I think I’d wait on the back, more sheltered two myself.
 
Good time to point out I elected to use Titebond II for all the head gratings and poop chutes. I needed the setup time it provides to adjust positioning and holding power, not too short like CA, not too long like white PVA. Plus it’s stronger than the wood once it’s dry.

Although only two pieces the rearward two seats take a lot of time and patience to fit with the various angles. Like the forward two they need to appear identically aligned with the gratings and false rail, a few adjustments creates that look.



The reward, as with the rest of the model, is the historical accuracy and detail that Chuck has built into this design.
Now to remove some of the dust. Can’t say I want to fit head timbers again anytime soon, though I sure do like the way it all ties together. 
 
Also I’m not taking much time with my iphoneograhy. The glare is bad lighting, the model in reality does not have the shine seen in the photos, the white balance is all over the place.
 
Thanks for stopping by with your likes and comments - I’m ever closer to the completion, only the bumpkins and lantern to go.

Bumpkins, Completed Headworks
 
I’m nearly at a the finish line.


The bumpkins, were they drunk when they named these…, are completed and installed. Like a few others I couldn’t bring myself at this stage and in this tight area to drill thru and/or remove moulding, so I faked it as best I could. The brackets are added using black masking tape.

The figurehead, the young man, patiently waiting, playing his mandolin, in my cabinet for three years, is now permanently installed along with the extensions of the hair brackets that have waited with him
 
The model is now sitting on my pool table, temporarily on its soon to be home. I’m working on the lantern, not sure if I will include it or not, we’ll see. I’ll also dust, touchup, paint and buff where needed before the final photos.
 
Thanks for stopping by.

Cathead Supports - Head Gratings & Poop Chutes
 
It’s been a minute. I have spent four months on Chapter 12, though the shop has been closed or not visited about half of that with travel and family time. It’s almost like I forgot the rest of model with my total focus on the small real estate forward of the bollard timbers for so long. Look, there are cannons back there.
 
Cathead Supports:
Tweaking. A word we modelers use a lot.  Not to be mistaken for Tweakers, which is a whole different thing. For me Chapter 12 has been a whole lot about tweaking. Tweaking taken to a whole other level.


Nothing much to add other than sand and shape, test fit, followed by more sand and shape, test fit, and repeat. I removed two levels of moulding at the bow to get a better fit. I so enjoy the trauma of removing it without destroying the hull finish or ripping up the friezes. Not to mention the fun of getting them back on inside what has become a tight space.
 
Head Gratings:
When I first saw photos of head gratings by those who went before me I wondered how it all fit together or more precisely how I’d fit it all together. More, a lot more, of the required tweaking is how. The gratings consist of 46 separate little pieces of wood, each and every one custom fitted one by one by one. It’s also when you learn just how important was the measuring, sizing, squaring up, leveling, and fitting done in Chapters 1-5.


There was a little variance I was able to account for by adjusting and sanding a few of the pieces, the goal is symmetry and visual match of the two sides, a little of here and there isn’t noticed. the important visual element being those first gratings either side of the bowsprit be equal-distant apart. It takes a great deal of time to make it all work, cutting each of those little pieces for a tight fit. It took a long while, but it’s worth it in the end.
 
Poop Chutes:
Speaking of taking time. While the forward two to just took a little squaring up to assemble I had to take care to center, align the height from the grating, and square them up to each other.

I made a simple jig to manage this, it worked out quite well. The lid sits above the jig side pieces to create a total height of 5/16. It, along with the front piece, squares it on all four sides and with its partner. I still have to think how challenging it would have been to use these on the high seas, I think I’d wait on the back, more sheltered two myself.
 
Good time to point out I elected to use Titebond II for all the head gratings and poop chutes. I needed the setup time it provides to adjust positioning and holding power, not too short like CA, not too long like white PVA. Plus it’s stronger than the wood once it’s dry.

Although only two pieces the rearward two seats take a lot of time and patience to fit with the various angles. Like the forward two they need to appear identically aligned with the gratings and false rail, a few adjustments creates that look.



The reward, as with the rest of the model, is the historical accuracy and detail that Chuck has built into this design.
Now to remove some of the dust. Can’t say I want to fit head timbers again anytime soon, though I sure do like the way it all ties together. 
 
Also I’m not taking much time with my iphoneograhy. The glare is bad lighting, the model in reality does not have the shine seen in the photos, the white balance is all over the place.
 
Thanks for stopping by with your likes and comments - I’m ever closer to the completion, only the bumpkins and lantern to go.

Bumpkins, Completed Headworks
 
I’m nearly at a the finish line.


The bumpkins, were they drunk when they named these…, are completed and installed. Like a few others I couldn’t bring myself at this stage and in this tight area to drill thru and/or remove moulding, so I faked it as best I could. The brackets are added using black masking tape.

The figurehead, the young man, patiently waiting, playing his mandolin, in my cabinet for three years, is now permanently installed along with the extensions of the hair brackets that have waited with him
 
The model is now sitting on my pool table, temporarily on its soon to be home. I’m working on the lantern, not sure if I will include it or not, we’ll see. I’ll also dust, touchup, paint and buff where needed before the final photos.
 
Thanks for stopping by.

Update:
 
Ok, first I placed the spirketting.
 

 
First painted and then placed on the model. Enough clamps were of course needed to get good adhesion everywhere. The upper parts had to be a bit higher than the adjacent bulwarks according to the manual... I did this, but unfortunately not enough, which is why the spirketting protrudes a little bit at some gun ports. I first thought about sanding those parts away, but I think that will look weird. You can only see it if you sit lower than the water level and then look up. It is actually not noticeable at all unless you know about it. So I will leave it like this (I saw the same in almost every other log, so many people seem to have the same problem)
 
 
 
Secondly I placed a waterway of 1x1mm boxwood with a very small beveled edge (the beveled edge could have been a bit bigger). I think that this connects the spirketting and the deck nicely.
 
And thirdly...I drilled the drainage/scupper holes. First I made a sort of center point with a hand drill so that the Dremel doesn't "search" afterwards. Some things I learned...support yourself with your hand and Dremel on the deck so that you don't vibrate. And first turn off the Dremel after you have drilled deep enough, and then take it out. If you don't do that, you can still touch something with a rotating drill, or the hole won't turn out as nice. By the way, I just kept 1mm holes (same size as Chris used with the lasered deck)
 



 
Now I have to touch up a few spots with the paint.
Next step will be...the outside of the captain's cabin. Another exciting step

Let’s just say it has less red than mine.
 
I built my Fair American by “painting with wood,” not a drop of paint on it, all variations of different woods. It was a fun project so I get it.  

Let’s just say it has less red than mine.
 
I built my Fair American by “painting with wood,” not a drop of paint on it, all variations of different woods. It was a fun project so I get it.  

The all natural wood approach is bold and interesting. Well done!

The all natural wood approach is bold and interesting. Well done!

Cathead Supports - Head Gratings & Poop Chutes
 
It’s been a minute. I have spent four months on Chapter 12, though the shop has been closed or not visited about half of that with travel and family time. It’s almost like I forgot the rest of model with my total focus on the small real estate forward of the bollard timbers for so long. Look, there are cannons back there.
 
Cathead Supports:
Tweaking. A word we modelers use a lot.  Not to be mistaken for Tweakers, which is a whole different thing. For me Chapter 12 has been a whole lot about tweaking. Tweaking taken to a whole other level.


Nothing much to add other than sand and shape, test fit, followed by more sand and shape, test fit, and repeat. I removed two levels of moulding at the bow to get a better fit. I so enjoy the trauma of removing it without destroying the hull finish or ripping up the friezes. Not to mention the fun of getting them back on inside what has become a tight space.
 
Head Gratings:
When I first saw photos of head gratings by those who went before me I wondered how it all fit together or more precisely how I’d fit it all together. More, a lot more, of the required tweaking is how. The gratings consist of 46 separate little pieces of wood, each and every one custom fitted one by one by one. It’s also when you learn just how important was the measuring, sizing, squaring up, leveling, and fitting done in Chapters 1-5.


There was a little variance I was able to account for by adjusting and sanding a few of the pieces, the goal is symmetry and visual match of the two sides, a little of here and there isn’t noticed. the important visual element being those first gratings either side of the bowsprit be equal-distant apart. It takes a great deal of time to make it all work, cutting each of those little pieces for a tight fit. It took a long while, but it’s worth it in the end.
 
Poop Chutes:
Speaking of taking time. While the forward two to just took a little squaring up to assemble I had to take care to center, align the height from the grating, and square them up to each other.

I made a simple jig to manage this, it worked out quite well. The lid sits above the jig side pieces to create a total height of 5/16. It, along with the front piece, squares it on all four sides and with its partner. I still have to think how challenging it would have been to use these on the high seas, I think I’d wait on the back, more sheltered two myself.
 
Good time to point out I elected to use Titebond II for all the head gratings and poop chutes. I needed the setup time it provides to adjust positioning and holding power, not too short like CA, not too long like white PVA. Plus it’s stronger than the wood once it’s dry.

Although only two pieces the rearward two seats take a lot of time and patience to fit with the various angles. Like the forward two they need to appear identically aligned with the gratings and false rail, a few adjustments creates that look.



The reward, as with the rest of the model, is the historical accuracy and detail that Chuck has built into this design.
Now to remove some of the dust. Can’t say I want to fit head timbers again anytime soon, though I sure do like the way it all ties together. 
 
Also I’m not taking much time with my iphoneograhy. The glare is bad lighting, the model in reality does not have the shine seen in the photos, the white balance is all over the place.
 
Thanks for stopping by with your likes and comments - I’m ever closer to the completion, only the bumpkins and lantern to go.

Cathead Supports - Head Gratings & Poop Chutes
 
It’s been a minute. I have spent four months on Chapter 12, though the shop has been closed or not visited about half of that with travel and family time. It’s almost like I forgot the rest of model with my total focus on the small real estate forward of the bollard timbers for so long. Look, there are cannons back there.
 
Cathead Supports:
Tweaking. A word we modelers use a lot.  Not to be mistaken for Tweakers, which is a whole different thing. For me Chapter 12 has been a whole lot about tweaking. Tweaking taken to a whole other level.


Nothing much to add other than sand and shape, test fit, followed by more sand and shape, test fit, and repeat. I removed two levels of moulding at the bow to get a better fit. I so enjoy the trauma of removing it without destroying the hull finish or ripping up the friezes. Not to mention the fun of getting them back on inside what has become a tight space.
 
Head Gratings:
When I first saw photos of head gratings by those who went before me I wondered how it all fit together or more precisely how I’d fit it all together. More, a lot more, of the required tweaking is how. The gratings consist of 46 separate little pieces of wood, each and every one custom fitted one by one by one. It’s also when you learn just how important was the measuring, sizing, squaring up, leveling, and fitting done in Chapters 1-5.


There was a little variance I was able to account for by adjusting and sanding a few of the pieces, the goal is symmetry and visual match of the two sides, a little of here and there isn’t noticed. the important visual element being those first gratings either side of the bowsprit be equal-distant apart. It takes a great deal of time to make it all work, cutting each of those little pieces for a tight fit. It took a long while, but it’s worth it in the end.
 
Poop Chutes:
Speaking of taking time. While the forward two to just took a little squaring up to assemble I had to take care to center, align the height from the grating, and square them up to each other.

I made a simple jig to manage this, it worked out quite well. The lid sits above the jig side pieces to create a total height of 5/16. It, along with the front piece, squares it on all four sides and with its partner. I still have to think how challenging it would have been to use these on the high seas, I think I’d wait on the back, more sheltered two myself.
 
Good time to point out I elected to use Titebond II for all the head gratings and poop chutes. I needed the setup time it provides to adjust positioning and holding power, not too short like CA, not too long like white PVA. Plus it’s stronger than the wood once it’s dry.

Although only two pieces the rearward two seats take a lot of time and patience to fit with the various angles. Like the forward two they need to appear identically aligned with the gratings and false rail, a few adjustments creates that look.



The reward, as with the rest of the model, is the historical accuracy and detail that Chuck has built into this design.
Now to remove some of the dust. Can’t say I want to fit head timbers again anytime soon, though I sure do like the way it all ties together. 
 
Also I’m not taking much time with my iphoneograhy. The glare is bad lighting, the model in reality does not have the shine seen in the photos, the white balance is all over the place.
 
Thanks for stopping by with your likes and comments - I’m ever closer to the completion, only the bumpkins and lantern to go.

Cathead Supports - Head Gratings & Poop Chutes
 
It’s been a minute. I have spent four months on Chapter 12, though the shop has been closed or not visited about half of that with travel and family time. It’s almost like I forgot the rest of model with my total focus on the small real estate forward of the bollard timbers for so long. Look, there are cannons back there.
 
Cathead Supports:
Tweaking. A word we modelers use a lot.  Not to be mistaken for Tweakers, which is a whole different thing. For me Chapter 12 has been a whole lot about tweaking. Tweaking taken to a whole other level.


Nothing much to add other than sand and shape, test fit, followed by more sand and shape, test fit, and repeat. I removed two levels of moulding at the bow to get a better fit. I so enjoy the trauma of removing it without destroying the hull finish or ripping up the friezes. Not to mention the fun of getting them back on inside what has become a tight space.
 
Head Gratings:
When I first saw photos of head gratings by those who went before me I wondered how it all fit together or more precisely how I’d fit it all together. More, a lot more, of the required tweaking is how. The gratings consist of 46 separate little pieces of wood, each and every one custom fitted one by one by one. It’s also when you learn just how important was the measuring, sizing, squaring up, leveling, and fitting done in Chapters 1-5.


There was a little variance I was able to account for by adjusting and sanding a few of the pieces, the goal is symmetry and visual match of the two sides, a little of here and there isn’t noticed. the important visual element being those first gratings either side of the bowsprit be equal-distant apart. It takes a great deal of time to make it all work, cutting each of those little pieces for a tight fit. It took a long while, but it’s worth it in the end.
 
Poop Chutes:
Speaking of taking time. While the forward two to just took a little squaring up to assemble I had to take care to center, align the height from the grating, and square them up to each other.

I made a simple jig to manage this, it worked out quite well. The lid sits above the jig side pieces to create a total height of 5/16. It, along with the front piece, squares it on all four sides and with its partner. I still have to think how challenging it would have been to use these on the high seas, I think I’d wait on the back, more sheltered two myself.
 
Good time to point out I elected to use Titebond II for all the head gratings and poop chutes. I needed the setup time it provides to adjust positioning and holding power, not too short like CA, not too long like white PVA. Plus it’s stronger than the wood once it’s dry.

Although only two pieces the rearward two seats take a lot of time and patience to fit with the various angles. Like the forward two they need to appear identically aligned with the gratings and false rail, a few adjustments creates that look.



The reward, as with the rest of the model, is the historical accuracy and detail that Chuck has built into this design.
Now to remove some of the dust. Can’t say I want to fit head timbers again anytime soon, though I sure do like the way it all ties together. 
 
Also I’m not taking much time with my iphoneograhy. The glare is bad lighting, the model in reality does not have the shine seen in the photos, the white balance is all over the place.
 
Thanks for stopping by with your likes and comments - I’m ever closer to the completion, only the bumpkins and lantern to go.

Lower platforms (aft)
I've been held up a bit in getting these completed due to some mohs surgery on my neck and face. Thankfully, the doctors got it all and it's healing quickly.
 
I did these platforms the same way as the fore platforms. The angles of the beams are a bit trickier, especially the ones further aft. As usual I used spacers between the carlings which were removed after the carlings were glued in. All of this will be covered by the platforms, but if they showed I would definitely mortise them.

Making the foremost aft platform proved to be an interesting project. This was done in sections moving from the center out. Tricky but lots of fun to make.

I ended up using Chuck's laser cut mast coat rather than doing it from scratch. Just wasn't in the mood for the inevitable re-dos.

Mike

Excellent work. This area frustrated me a lot. 

Cathead Supports - Head Gratings & Poop Chutes
 
It’s been a minute. I have spent four months on Chapter 12, though the shop has been closed or not visited about half of that with travel and family time. It’s almost like I forgot the rest of model with my total focus on the small real estate forward of the bollard timbers for so long. Look, there are cannons back there.
 
Cathead Supports:
Tweaking. A word we modelers use a lot.  Not to be mistaken for Tweakers, which is a whole different thing. For me Chapter 12 has been a whole lot about tweaking. Tweaking taken to a whole other level.


Nothing much to add other than sand and shape, test fit, followed by more sand and shape, test fit, and repeat. I removed two levels of moulding at the bow to get a better fit. I so enjoy the trauma of removing it without destroying the hull finish or ripping up the friezes. Not to mention the fun of getting them back on inside what has become a tight space.
 
Head Gratings:
When I first saw photos of head gratings by those who went before me I wondered how it all fit together or more precisely how I’d fit it all together. More, a lot more, of the required tweaking is how. The gratings consist of 46 separate little pieces of wood, each and every one custom fitted one by one by one. It’s also when you learn just how important was the measuring, sizing, squaring up, leveling, and fitting done in Chapters 1-5.


There was a little variance I was able to account for by adjusting and sanding a few of the pieces, the goal is symmetry and visual match of the two sides, a little of here and there isn’t noticed. the important visual element being those first gratings either side of the bowsprit be equal-distant apart. It takes a great deal of time to make it all work, cutting each of those little pieces for a tight fit. It took a long while, but it’s worth it in the end.
 
Poop Chutes:
Speaking of taking time. While the forward two to just took a little squaring up to assemble I had to take care to center, align the height from the grating, and square them up to each other.

I made a simple jig to manage this, it worked out quite well. The lid sits above the jig side pieces to create a total height of 5/16. It, along with the front piece, squares it on all four sides and with its partner. I still have to think how challenging it would have been to use these on the high seas, I think I’d wait on the back, more sheltered two myself.
 
Good time to point out I elected to use Titebond II for all the head gratings and poop chutes. I needed the setup time it provides to adjust positioning and holding power, not too short like CA, not too long like white PVA. Plus it’s stronger than the wood once it’s dry.

Although only two pieces the rearward two seats take a lot of time and patience to fit with the various angles. Like the forward two they need to appear identically aligned with the gratings and false rail, a few adjustments creates that look.



The reward, as with the rest of the model, is the historical accuracy and detail that Chuck has built into this design.
Now to remove some of the dust. Can’t say I want to fit head timbers again anytime soon, though I sure do like the way it all ties together. 
 
Also I’m not taking much time with my iphoneograhy. The glare is bad lighting, the model in reality does not have the shine seen in the photos, the white balance is all over the place.
 
Thanks for stopping by with your likes and comments - I’m ever closer to the completion, only the bumpkins and lantern to go.

Glad the fly tying thread is also working for you. 

Gotta love building more cannon. Great work on chapter 9. 

Cathead Supports - Head Gratings & Poop Chutes
 
It’s been a minute. I have spent four months on Chapter 12, though the shop has been closed or not visited about half of that with travel and family time. It’s almost like I forgot the rest of model with my total focus on the small real estate forward of the bollard timbers for so long. Look, there are cannons back there.
 
Cathead Supports:
Tweaking. A word we modelers use a lot.  Not to be mistaken for Tweakers, which is a whole different thing. For me Chapter 12 has been a whole lot about tweaking. Tweaking taken to a whole other level.


Nothing much to add other than sand and shape, test fit, followed by more sand and shape, test fit, and repeat. I removed two levels of moulding at the bow to get a better fit. I so enjoy the trauma of removing it without destroying the hull finish or ripping up the friezes. Not to mention the fun of getting them back on inside what has become a tight space.
 
Head Gratings:
When I first saw photos of head gratings by those who went before me I wondered how it all fit together or more precisely how I’d fit it all together. More, a lot more, of the required tweaking is how. The gratings consist of 46 separate little pieces of wood, each and every one custom fitted one by one by one. It’s also when you learn just how important was the measuring, sizing, squaring up, leveling, and fitting done in Chapters 1-5.


There was a little variance I was able to account for by adjusting and sanding a few of the pieces, the goal is symmetry and visual match of the two sides, a little of here and there isn’t noticed. the important visual element being those first gratings either side of the bowsprit be equal-distant apart. It takes a great deal of time to make it all work, cutting each of those little pieces for a tight fit. It took a long while, but it’s worth it in the end.
 
Poop Chutes:
Speaking of taking time. While the forward two to just took a little squaring up to assemble I had to take care to center, align the height from the grating, and square them up to each other.

I made a simple jig to manage this, it worked out quite well. The lid sits above the jig side pieces to create a total height of 5/16. It, along with the front piece, squares it on all four sides and with its partner. I still have to think how challenging it would have been to use these on the high seas, I think I’d wait on the back, more sheltered two myself.
 
Good time to point out I elected to use Titebond II for all the head gratings and poop chutes. I needed the setup time it provides to adjust positioning and holding power, not too short like CA, not too long like white PVA. Plus it’s stronger than the wood once it’s dry.

Although only two pieces the rearward two seats take a lot of time and patience to fit with the various angles. Like the forward two they need to appear identically aligned with the gratings and false rail, a few adjustments creates that look.



The reward, as with the rest of the model, is the historical accuracy and detail that Chuck has built into this design.
Now to remove some of the dust. Can’t say I want to fit head timbers again anytime soon, though I sure do like the way it all ties together. 
 
Also I’m not taking much time with my iphoneograhy. The glare is bad lighting, the model in reality does not have the shine seen in the photos, the white balance is all over the place.
 
Thanks for stopping by with your likes and comments - I’m ever closer to the completion, only the bumpkins and lantern to go.

Glad the fly tying thread is also working for you. 

It was definitely one of the more difficult parts of the build.
But you did a wonderful job with it, Glenn!

Cathead Supports - Head Gratings & Poop Chutes
 
It’s been a minute. I have spent four months on Chapter 12, though the shop has been closed or not visited about half of that with travel and family time. It’s almost like I forgot the rest of model with my total focus on the small real estate forward of the bollard timbers for so long. Look, there are cannons back there.
 
Cathead Supports:
Tweaking. A word we modelers use a lot.  Not to be mistaken for Tweakers, which is a whole different thing. For me Chapter 12 has been a whole lot about tweaking. Tweaking taken to a whole other level.


Nothing much to add other than sand and shape, test fit, followed by more sand and shape, test fit, and repeat. I removed two levels of moulding at the bow to get a better fit. I so enjoy the trauma of removing it without destroying the hull finish or ripping up the friezes. Not to mention the fun of getting them back on inside what has become a tight space.
 
Head Gratings:
When I first saw photos of head gratings by those who went before me I wondered how it all fit together or more precisely how I’d fit it all together. More, a lot more, of the required tweaking is how. The gratings consist of 46 separate little pieces of wood, each and every one custom fitted one by one by one. It’s also when you learn just how important was the measuring, sizing, squaring up, leveling, and fitting done in Chapters 1-5.


There was a little variance I was able to account for by adjusting and sanding a few of the pieces, the goal is symmetry and visual match of the two sides, a little of here and there isn’t noticed. the important visual element being those first gratings either side of the bowsprit be equal-distant apart. It takes a great deal of time to make it all work, cutting each of those little pieces for a tight fit. It took a long while, but it’s worth it in the end.
 
Poop Chutes:
Speaking of taking time. While the forward two to just took a little squaring up to assemble I had to take care to center, align the height from the grating, and square them up to each other.

I made a simple jig to manage this, it worked out quite well. The lid sits above the jig side pieces to create a total height of 5/16. It, along with the front piece, squares it on all four sides and with its partner. I still have to think how challenging it would have been to use these on the high seas, I think I’d wait on the back, more sheltered two myself.
 
Good time to point out I elected to use Titebond II for all the head gratings and poop chutes. I needed the setup time it provides to adjust positioning and holding power, not too short like CA, not too long like white PVA. Plus it’s stronger than the wood once it’s dry.

Although only two pieces the rearward two seats take a lot of time and patience to fit with the various angles. Like the forward two they need to appear identically aligned with the gratings and false rail, a few adjustments creates that look.



The reward, as with the rest of the model, is the historical accuracy and detail that Chuck has built into this design.
Now to remove some of the dust. Can’t say I want to fit head timbers again anytime soon, though I sure do like the way it all ties together. 
 
Also I’m not taking much time with my iphoneograhy. The glare is bad lighting, the model in reality does not have the shine seen in the photos, the white balance is all over the place.
 
Thanks for stopping by with your likes and comments - I’m ever closer to the completion, only the bumpkins and lantern to go.