glbarlow

I have assembled my 3rd version of the stem after having issues with the laser using too much power.. I used some Sassafras that I had and thicknessed 3 300mm x 80mm x 6.35mm planks with my Proxxon DH40 thicknesser.
I used one plank to calibrate the lasers power to the material and then cut the pieces out on the 2 remaining planks. I had taken the original files and used acrobat and illustrator to make new cut files that would fit the plank sizes I had. 
I may use this as the final version of the stem.

Checking the flow of the bow of the middle section of the jigsaw part of the deck planking. Just gave it a little fine sanding thusfar. Next step is to measure the equal distances with the template at each section line and lining off with the rest of the planking at both sides with narrow tape.
Frank.

It’s all just so neat and sharp.  Chris should replace his box art with yours. 

You’re really flying building this. And doing such a great job. 

Amazing as always. What brown paint did you use? It’s such a perfect match to the wood. 
 
An interesting thing about this ship is the lack of a rail or high transom. It seems like the duchess could easily be blown off the stern during her morning stroll about the upper deck. 🤣😂

Breech rope is often enough, there’s plenty of visual appeal all around on this model. Crisp work as always. I should use more towels. 
 
congrats on the vaccination hub. I got my first shot today at the Texas Motor Speedway as provided by my county.  Very efficient and fast. 

Starboard side gunport framing completed, now to start cleaning the char from the Frame pieces and begin installing them. I intend to frame this side and when done turn her around and frame all the port side.
 

Progress is continuing, just finished Chapter 7.

Hi all, 
The second cabin bulkhead has been tested, tweaked and finally fitted. The door knobs caused me the biggest headache, as the ones Chuck supplies, I managed to break or lose most of them, so fashioned new ones from the offcuts of the cannon trunnions.

There are still only two beams glued in, as I daren't glue the others till I'm absolutely sure I can!!
It certainly gives Winnie a better look with these bulkheads fitted.thanks for your support.
I still have some little niggles to sort out, but work progresses slowly.
Cheers

You may need to bevel, even up, and/or reduce the scrap wood pieces or the gap might grow wider as you plank further.  You might also be able the replacement the bottom (currently top) counter plank.  While replacing the planks is a lot, there are still ways to fiddle about to close the gap. The moulding strip and frieze have to have some to adhere to. (I hadn’t notice the size of the gap in my earlier comment, sorry).

Very nice work, great looking model!
 
 

Thanks you all,
For all your tips and comments and the likes.
Well, I'll first try to use some WOP and see how it looks, the overwhelming majority thinks I shouldn't paint the pear, which would be ashame I think too.
@Ronald: I've not yet test fitted the whole stand, I'm still fine-tuning the two conformal placeholders with the hull...
Once it all fits smoothly, I'll try the WOP and see how it combines.
Thanks,
Frank.

The beginning of the stern framing starts with the “wing” transom, this part has etched and cut into it the positions for the counter Timbers and the aft gunports.
I carefully removed the laser char and then using heat I bent it into shape so that it clicked into the jig slots correctly.
It only gets glued to the central former at the moment - NOT to the jig pieces!


 

Post 94
Main stay. (Part 1)
The kit plans show a simplified form of the Main/Preventer stays.
A more authentic version includes serving of the stay collars including the eye splice through which the stay passes, and a more stylish mouse to replace the kit plastic version.
The kit indicates use of deadeyes for securing the stays but I have opted for hearts which were more common during this period.
 
I am using Steel’s tables for an 18-14 gun ship.
 Mainstay                - 10”  - 1.26mm   - 15” Heart  (6mm)  Main Preventer Stay - 7”  -  0.88mm  -  10” Heart  (4mm) 
 
The kit line dimensions are close to this using 1.3mm line for the Main stay, and 1mm line for the Preventer stay.
For the Mainstay I am using Syren 1.37mm line, and for the Preventer 0.88mm line. The lines are stretched under weights to remove the spring before fitting.

4880a
The position of the mouse needs to be tested on the model.

4881a

4884a
Here the  un-dyed Preventer stay serving is apparent, and the ‘weave’ of the mouse shows through.

4889a
I have been thinking about the positioning of the stays.
 
The kit arrangement has the Main stay fixed by a collar to the Foremast, and the Preventer stay  running above it and beyond it to a collar on the Bowsprit.
I have some doubts about this arrangement, generally Mainstays run beyond the foremast to the bow.
Steel says that The main Preventer stay is lashed to the Foremast and the Main stay to the Bowsprit chock.
Lees comments that the Preventer stay was usually carried above the stay but that on small ships was sometimes carried  under it.

4888a
Full details of my preparing and fitting of the stays and the related Mouses is fully covered in my Pegasus log, so I won’t repeat it all here.

4883a

4890a

4885a
In the case of Harpy I have decided to run the Preventer stay below the Main stay, and reverse the locations of the lashings.
Onto the lower end stay fixings.
 
B.E.
25/06/2025

You may need to bevel, even up, and/or reduce the scrap wood pieces or the gap might grow wider as you plank further.  You might also be able the replacement the bottom (currently top) counter plank.  While replacing the planks is a lot, there are still ways to fiddle about to close the gap. The moulding strip and frieze have to have some to adhere to. (I hadn’t notice the size of the gap in my earlier comment, sorry).

I think your’re on the right track, no need to change 

This is a challenging area to get a good clean, tight flow of planks. It’s also a time to look ahead in the instructions, something I always do,to see the final look. The lower counter will be covered with a frieze and moulding over that along the line of planks. The curve, tight and solid fit is the important part.

I’m never sure what’s better, the quality of your build or the depth of your logs. I do agree they are of benefit to us all. Well done as always BE!

The pear is complimentary. I wouldn’t paint it. 

Thank you Glenn for your very kind comment, much appreciated.
 
Post 91
Topmast options
I’ve yet to decide  how to display the Topmasts, so I’ve been having a play around before the shrouds are fitted.
The possibilities are:
In the usual raised  position.

4749a 
4751a
.. but this is a non starter, I haven’t room for another tall masted model, but she would look beautiful fully rigged.
 
In a lowered position secured by Top ropes.

4755a

4760a

4756a
This has the advantage that it doesn’t increase the height very much. Also provides an interesting rigging arrangement.
 
Secured on the Gallows.

4761

4766a
The simplest and obvious location for stowing non fitted Topmasts, but tends to obscure somewhat Chris’s beautiful little cutter, particularly if I decided to store Sweeps on the Gallows.
 
With the Cutter atop the masts on the Gallows

4768a

4770a

4771a
a recognised arrangement, which on a practical level clears the deck and displays the cutter to the full extent.
 
I don’t need to decide  until the shrouds are fitted, but the lowered Topmast position is the one I’m favouring.
 
B.E.
19/06/2025
 

I’m never sure what’s better, the quality of your build or the depth of your logs. I do agree they are of benefit to us all. Well done as always BE!

I’m never sure what’s better, the quality of your build or the depth of your logs. I do agree they are of benefit to us all. Well done as always BE!

I’m never sure what’s better, the quality of your build or the depth of your logs. I do agree they are of benefit to us all. Well done as always BE!

I’m never sure what’s better, the quality of your build or the depth of your logs. I do agree they are of benefit to us all. Well done as always BE!