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I replaced the last of the kit walnut by building the bits from cherry, the kit provided piece is laying on the hatch for comparison

The tape over the mast hole was belatedly added after I dropped one of the pieces into the hull. Fortunately with a few lucky upside down shakes and tweezers I was able to retrieve it.

The kit design and parts has a significant flaw that I recognized and had been struggling to find a solution. The bowsprit bit is either out of scale or just too high. I built the bowsprit, and found two problems. Once braced on the bit It sits to high above the rail, almost 5mm. There is also not way in the plans on how to secure it. I contacted Chris Watten, who designed this kit several decades ago he says and he agreed but couldn't remember his original design, probably not follow by Amati so they could use an existing bit in the kit. I’m not sure how the box photo is holding the bowsprit either. He told me on his new Vanguard Alert model, a similar cutter, the stem is much higher and he provides a photo etched brass ring to secure it on the stem at the rail. I tried fabricating one from wire, but that pushes the bowsprit off center and with the short stem it simply wasn’t a solution. So where to go. I could just glue it to the side of the stem but it looked bad sitting so much above the notch in the rail and that’s no way to build a model.

So I ripped the kit provide bit off the deck, got out my trusty tools along with some cherry and boxwood and scratch built new bits.

I was tempted to leave them natural, but it has the reverse affect of highlighting the somewhat oversized wench - I thought about rebuilding that but decided enough is enough, I have Cheerful waiting for me.

Seeing the two sitting side by side it doesn’t seem I made much difference, but its far more to scale and the with the difference in height of the bar allows the bowsprit to lay right in the groove with enough clearance on the stem for the later rigging. (the drill is just holding it in place during this dry fit, the blue tape on the connecting dowel is so I don’t loose it on my work desk)

I’ve now completed all the deck furniture, next of is the rail stanchions and gun mounts, plus two cannon left to paint. 
 
Here is the finished hull. The swivel guns are made but won’t be put on until the end.  I’ve also completed the cannons and will install those after adding the channels and deadeyes.


[NOTE: Still a bit to go to complete the move of this log to MSW, more to follow]
 
 

A good start with a new way. The planning and marking took most of the morning, then there was the Super Bowl so work stopped and beer was consumed.
So here’s where I am - starboard complete.  I’m pleased with the result.

To be clear, I take no credit for this method. I researched a new way of planking that fit my style of working (fast, without battens and without pins, using CA) and found it in Chuck Passaro’s method. I followed the .pdf he has posted on Model Ship World at Lining Off your hull for planking.pdf. There are also some videos including a recording of Chuck at a workshop - in that video he does things much simpler maybe less precise than in the .pdf that gets the same result, I used those, no french curves for me. As it is it took me several days to get this small ship planked.
 
I’ve always done something similar with measuring and determining where to begin tapering, but it was a lot more ad-hoc. That part of my process has worked, I’m built some nice ships doing it. What is really different and game-changing for me is his plank bending method.  I’m not going to go through it all in detail, you can read the .pdf, but I want to share a bit of it in hopes that a beginner might be inspired enough to learn more. The headline is no soaking and no twisting to fit.

First there is taking the time to do the planning - using tick strips to take measurements at each bulkhead, counting the number of strips at the widest point and converting that to the ships hull at bow and stern. Chuck used fan strip, I prefer a calculator.  If it’s seven 4mm strips at midships, using the tick strips to get distance I determined it has to become 2.5mm at the bow. This is tedious work, but worth it. Because it was here I learned my first error in my old ways. I was starting the taper too soon, I learned through measuring in detail that I didn’t need to taper (on this particular hull, it will obviously vary) until midway between bulkhead 2 and 3, and not at all to the stern. That got me a much more even and consistent look.

Dividing the hull in half and determining the “line” I wanted the planks to follow (3 or 4 bands for a bigger model) allowed me to be more precise and get a cleaner look instead of ad-hoc figuring it out as I went. These strips are hanging there just for the photo, I'm a little more precise doing the actual measurements.

All well and good, but here’s the fun part - quick and easy “bending the wrong way” using my personal plank bending station. Consisting of a raised board three clamps, three pieces of thin wood - two for preventing clamp marks and one to set the point of the curve, and one inexpensive steam travel iron.

NOTE: The plank in this photo is being accidentally held upside down, plank bending is bending down to turn up on the bow, so to install it's upside down shallow U not as shown here.  Placing the strip on the hull at the beginning of the taper point and bending it to the bow with my fingers (no glue) produces a curve, the apex of that curve is the bending point. Mark it and put that center on the middle of the clamp then gently pull down and clamp on both sides. I broke only one plank, the strip wood had more elasticity than I would have thought. I DID NOT soak the strips in water. I put my finger in water and ran it over the wood then “ironed” the strip for several seconds. Let it cool for a minute and you have a curved plank.

I then just kept track of my measurements, I did redo them a few times on the lower half, 4mm planks aren’t a perfect fit so I ripped two to 3mm each to fill the gap (and not have one super skinny). It still was a lot easier adjusting for the final pieces. Most importantly the planks, while it looks odd in a two dimensional photo, fit flush to the hull and its double curve by adding the downward bend in the tapered plank.  Again, no soaking, no bending no twisting.  I used drops of CA, first gluing it tight at the bow, then just 1-2 bulkheads at a time. I had roughed up the 1st planking with 100 grit sandpaper to help with adherence.
 
Here I will admit my major error, or the error the instructions led me to do - that’s attaching the sternpost when I built the frame. It is  so much easier at the stern to not install that until after the second planking. I know this, I blame it on the three year layoff since my last build. It wasn’t a show-stopper, it just made fitting the lower band of planks harder since they had to be cut to fit precisely at the stern post. On my next model I’ll not install the sternpost until after all the planking is done. 
 
On to the next step…

I’ve completed the planking above the wales using boxwood.  Why, because I like Boxwood and I had some. It’s a remarkable wood, so easy to work and bend into place.

These are actually from my first attempt at ripping my own out of a plank. I read a few tutorials, got some input from reliable sources and went at it with my Byrnes saw (with the right blade). My first couple weren’t going that well with the blade binding and the wood backing up. I got the hang of it though. They were a tad thick, but they worked out great on the boat. [NOTE: Thanks to Chuck, Rusty, and Jim Byrnes who all offered advice and help I can do this pretty well now. That I hadn't in all my prior models is because I bashed them all with wood from Jeff at Hobbymill. He did provided high quality wood already cut so I didn't have to. Sadly Jeff is no longer in business. I'm ripping like crazy for my current Cheerful build.]
 
I mentioned before I attach the gunport patterns I score each side of the tabs above the deck. I also only glue at the top point and the bottom. I elected to break off the three tabs on each side that were obstructing my cutting out gun ports electing to leave the rest in until I complete the first planking. After all the cutting and filing and cutting and filing and cutting and filing and being thankful this is a 12 gun ship, not the Vanguard [the model not Chris' company 🙂 ], I did some basic sanding (leaving the rest and needed filling until the 2nd planking is complete. I put a coat of satin poly just to keep the boxwood clean.
 
I’ve also spent a LOT of time fidldling and pondering how to finish up the stern. I have the last piece painted and ready to attach but I’m going to leave it off until I finish sanding the 2nd planking.  I’m still not sure about the fashion piece on the sides, the part included with the model is a disappointing.  More on all that later.
 
So the moment has arrived to learn a new method of planking following Chuck’s tutorials and videos. First step is lining off the hull, I made pencil marks where the bulkheads are and dividing the hull into two bands using artist tape.  Bulkhead 4 is marked as the widest part of the ship. Now to make the tick marks…  At this point this thing looks a bit beat up.  It’ll all come together.
 
Who knows how this is going to turn out.  If there is never another entry in this log you’ll know it went badly.
 

First of many oops moments. I just notice I put the deck on “upside down." Normally this doesn’t matter but with the offset bowsprit the mount on the deck is also offset, so the mounting holes are on the wrong side.

No problem, I used a square off piece of MDF to draw lines (no ruler would fit) to get the alignment, then the eventual cross bar to locate the accurate distance

Drill a new hole with the best sized bit and open up with my trusty blade.  One thing all modelers know is it isn’t all going to be perfect.  Adapt, improvise, and overcome to quote Clint Eastwood.

I’ve become a big fan of a simple set of riffler files, not sure why I had never discovered these before. This particular one allowed me to square up the corners of the new hole ver precisely and a dry fit of that eventual bowsprit saddle and laying the dowel on top, alls right with the world again.
 
Oh, and I put a X over the now wrong hole so I remember to plank over it when the time comes.  The quality of the stem wood and another oops moment when I snapped it in two led to the decision to paint it black after the repair along with the sternpost (the part that won’t be be painted white below the waterline.  It’s walnut, but not very good walnut.  I’m a bit concerned about the soft wood when I move into deck furniture.
 
I’ll make it work, and off we go. [NOTE: Actually as you'll see it wouldn't work so I got to practice my scratch building, the model is better for it]

So then it begins, framing the keel. This work is the same on every plank on bulkhead model, in this case I just have fewer and smaller pieces to assemble.


I first sanded a rabbet on the bottom and stern of the keel before installing the bow, keel and stern boards.  The instructions don’t mention this, but it comes in handy to slot in the planks for a better fit. Most large models make a bigger deal out of it. I’ve just always done it and saw no reason not to here. [NOTE: Here the long layoff showed; I forgot NOT to attach the sternpost until the planking was completed. It still works, just make it that much harder. Don't put on the sternpost kids.]

I did find a misprint on the plans. There are a couple of these typos where part numbers don’t match. In the case of the bulkheads the plans incorrectly label 2 and 3.  It’s quickly obviously it’s wrong, here a simple reminder of the importance of checking and dry fitting to prevent a catastrophic mistake if you're too quick to glue.


The instruction recommended and I did do initial fairing on each of the bulkheads 1-3 and 7-9. There are two keys here, don’t overdo it and fair half of the bulkhead. Remove the laser burn to improve adhesion of the planks but leave an edge using the laser burn as a guide facing midships from both bow and stern, otherwise the resulting hull will be off shape and likely uneven from one side to the other. I dry fitted them and laid a batten from one to the next to get a general idea of how much to sand, that seemed to work out.

Having completed that I then scored each bulkhead tab at the in and outside. After the second planking these tabs are removed, this makes that later process easier. Of course score being the operative word, cut too much and they’ll break off while installing the gun port pattern.

I found these little squaring tools somewhere on some site, sorry I don’t remember where [NOTE: Woodpeckers or Amazon has them now].  They are perfect for ensuring square frames, but I still double check by measuring and using my various squares.

I use Admiralty Models white glue for this work and take it slow.  I start from the front. part 1, and the back, part 8, saving the stern frame, 9, for last. Install and wait 30-45 minutes to dry. [Note: I started Cheerful from the middle and worked out both directions, go figure.]
 
Good time to watch 30 minute TV shows between frames. The key is not to rush it.

So when you’re not sure where you want to start and feel a bit weighed down by the decision then of course you start with the end and build anchors



 
After opening the kit I had to do something to get back on the horse with 3 years since my last build. Scratch building the anchors, replacing the boring metal pieces provided in the kit was a good afternoon’s work. I started with a scrap piece from the 3mm walnut parts board and used my Byrnes Saw and Sander along with a collection of sanding tools to shape it up. I used heavy black paper [NOTE: now I would use artist black masking tape] cut in narrow strips to complete the anchors. I finish everything on the model with water based Minwax Polycrylic in Clear Semi-Gloss. I’ have and tried all the other stuff, I always come back to this simple way to protect and finish my work. [Note: Unless I'm building Cheerful or as I did on Fair American using Wipe On Poly, next level stuff]
 

I have a love-hate relationship with sanding, its an integral part of building with wood but not always the most fun thing to do. Aside from the Byrnes Sander I have The True Sander, it is one of my most used tools. Aside from standard sanding blocks I’ve also created my own various sized sanders by covering scrap wood with different sandpaper grades using double sided tape. I leave 3 edges open allowing me to manage what I sand and more importantly what I don’t in small tight areas. I’ll end up changing the sandpaper a couple of times during a build, they all get used a lot. I also have some I’ve cut for a specific and often one-time use based on the model and circumstance. I share this because they are easy to make and helpful to have.
 
Next comes the work. Or is it work really…

Enjoyed the interview, Chris you handled it well!
 
Sad that one, very understandable, reason for not designing a Constitution is recognizing he’d be raked over the coals about every detail. It would be funny to have an American frigate, but his is a British company. He’ll never run out of British ships to choose from. How about one us Americans sunk or captured 😂🤣😂

Enjoyed the interview, Chris you handled it well!
 
Sad that one, very understandable, reason for not designing a Constitution is recognizing he’d be raked over the coals about every detail. It would be funny to have an American frigate, but his is a British company. He’ll never run out of British ships to choose from. How about one us Americans sunk or captured 😂🤣😂

Enjoyed the interview, Chris you handled it well!
 
Sad that one, very understandable, reason for not designing a Constitution is recognizing he’d be raked over the coals about every detail. It would be funny to have an American frigate, but his is a British company. He’ll never run out of British ships to choose from. How about one us Americans sunk or captured 😂🤣😂

Enjoyed the interview, Chris you handled it well!
 
Sad that one, very understandable, reason for not designing a Constitution is recognizing he’d be raked over the coals about every detail. It would be funny to have an American frigate, but his is a British company. He’ll never run out of British ships to choose from. How about one us Americans sunk or captured 😂🤣😂

Enjoyed the interview, Chris you handled it well!
 
Sad that one, very understandable, reason for not designing a Constitution is recognizing he’d be raked over the coals about every detail. It would be funny to have an American frigate, but his is a British company. He’ll never run out of British ships to choose from. How about one us Americans sunk or captured 😂🤣😂

Enjoyed the interview, Chris you handled it well!
 
Sad that one, very understandable, reason for not designing a Constitution is recognizing he’d be raked over the coals about every detail. It would be funny to have an American frigate, but his is a British company. He’ll never run out of British ships to choose from. How about one us Americans sunk or captured 😂🤣😂

Sigh. It’s a flag. How many would ever notice. Good call Chris, more will identify with the books and movie than the actual ship. 

Once again, thanks for the positive comments and likes.  And now onto chapter 4.
 
Pretty basic stuff this week with the first few steps of chapter 4 leading up to the installation of the false deck.
 
Added the two sub decks and the beams.  I applied one coat of matt water-based sealer to the sub decks to test out if I liked the look.  Weighing using a matt finish on the deck, or just keeping it completely natural.  I would like to seal the deck planking with something but don't want it to be noticeable.
 
At this point all beams are only dry fit.
 
You can also see the center line I ran the length of the deck.
 

 
Next was dry fitting the false deck sheets.  As I placed the sheets and got them aligned, I followed Chuck's suggestion in the directions and drilled & pinned the pieces in place.  All of this still only dry fit.
 

 
Then it was time to pull it all apart and glue the beams and false deck permanently into place.  I ended up adjusting almost all the beams again during final assembly as everything was still just a little too tight and was pushing some of the beams out of alignment.
 
I was able to install the false deck one piece at a time relying on the pre-drilled pin locations for alignment.  I used several 1 Kg bags of shot to press the deck pieces down while the glue set.
 

 
Current state of things.  The bow filler pieces are installed.  I'm doing one last round of fairing prior to starting on the inner bulwarks.
 

 
Steve

Well said and well done. The decisions are made and we’re moving forward. Great news that you’ve outgrown your current space, despite the effort involved to locate a new one 

I’m glad of the flag set too and have been a customer of Vanguard since its first model. Chris works so hard to get things right and to communicate so effectively on this forum I just tire a bit when someone nitpicks at his choices. I did learn a new word though, had no idea their was one for the study of flags.

Well said and well done. The decisions are made and we’re moving forward. Great news that you’ve outgrown your current space, despite the effort involved to locate a new one 

Well said and well done. The decisions are made and we’re moving forward. Great news that you’ve outgrown your current space, despite the effort involved to locate a new one 

I’m glad of the flag set too and have been a customer of Vanguard since its first model. Chris works so hard to get things right and to communicate so effectively on this forum I just tire a bit when someone nitpicks at his choices. I did learn a new word though, had no idea their was one for the study of flags.

All in on the display, very nice!  Congratulations, you’ve come such a long way from the start of Vanguard!

Well said and well done. The decisions are made and we’re moving forward. Great news that you’ve outgrown your current space, despite the effort involved to locate a new one 

Well said and well done. The decisions are made and we’re moving forward. Great news that you’ve outgrown your current space, despite the effort involved to locate a new one 

Well said and well done. The decisions are made and we’re moving forward. Great news that you’ve outgrown your current space, despite the effort involved to locate a new one 

Well said and well done. The decisions are made and we’re moving forward. Great news that you’ve outgrown your current space, despite the effort involved to locate a new one 

Well said and well done. The decisions are made and we’re moving forward. Great news that you’ve outgrown your current space, despite the effort involved to locate a new one