glbarlow

I struggled with the gunport patterns. I suspect it was me, as the instructions are quite clear and Vane managed to fit them with little difficulty as described in his log. Bending them lengthways was no problem - they're only 0.8mm thick and soaking them in warm water as recommended works fine. I clamped them wet to the frames and used a hot air gun to set the curve. My difficulty came because I also had to bend the strips edgewise. I should  stress that I'm not talking about edge bending as recommended by Chuck in his planking videos - this is unnecessary for the Speedy gunport patterns as they are already curved to follow the sheer. Rather, I'm referring to the bend needed across the width of the strip in order to follow the tumblehome. This is particularly pronounced near the bow. I followed Chris's recommendation in the instructions to clamp the tops of the patterns to the tops of the frames and to pin the patterns at the bottom to hold them against the frames. To hold them tight against the frames I found I had to drive the pins right in - the heads are really small so I should be able to plank over them without causing bumps. Either that or I'll file them flat. This shows the port patterns clamped and glued in place (I must buy more clamps!).

The real difficulty came because bending these thin sheets in two dimensions caused them to buckle. The next pictures show the top and bottom views of the front starboard pattern:

I was reluctant to resort to sanding and filling on such a scale, so I resorted to my trusty travel iron, wetting the offending areas and trying to flatten them on maximum heat. The result was acceptable, I think.

Not perfect, but should be sortable during planking.
 
I'm probably making more of this than it deserves. I suspect that's because the kit so far has fitted together so neatly and easily that I'd forgotten that model ships inevitably require a degree of skill - they're not made of Lego bricks that snap together perfectly. I'll be interested to see what other Speedy builders make of this part of the construction.
 
Roll on planking!
 
Derek

Excellent progress so far. I suspect you’ll have overtaken me before long. I was sorry to hear about your accident, but at least it served to illustrate Chris’s great customer service - from what you say it sounds like he replaced the broken parts very quickly. 
 
I think you’re right to try edge-bending - it seems the best way to go. Using the gun port pattern to get the right curve was a smart idea, though it’s usually good to over-bend initially as the wood will tend to straighten slightly. Like glbarlow, I find  a travel iron works best. It literally flattens the wood, helping to ensure it doesn't bend in a direction you don’t want. 
 
Derek

You’ll find all across this forum people rave about the Byrnes saw, I like everyone else love mine.  I use it all the time along with my Byrnes Sander.  I haven’t sprung for the thickness sander yet, but based on the seemingly shortage of quality strip wood it may be next.  

I have a Byrnes saw and can do a reasonable job of ripping my own, in fact I did for my current model since I couldn’t find anything and still had a few billets from Jeff. It’s just that I prefer not to, I don’t do it enough to be good at it and I don’t have the proper ventilation to rip something like ebony. 
 
Even with that, I’m still looking for a source for quality woods in sheets in 3-5mm thicknesses. I’ll try some of the sites listed.  I do miss Hobby Mill, didn’t realize how good I had it with Jeff. 

Agree with everyone, start over, filler can't get you there from here.  You can find lime wood for the first planking cheap enough.  No offense but not sure you read Chucks Planking process correctly.  I just followed it for my current build and had great results.  I don't agree that soaking is the way to go, that can lead to warping and swelling. I think your issue is more one of not tapering enough (or at all) at the bow (and too much at the stern) and not using Chuck's sideways bending technique.  Get Chuck's hull outlining .pdf to see how to measure and mark the hull.  I've always managed by guesstimates on prior models but learned a lot by doing it in detail and with more precision with this latest hull.  
 
Have heart, we've all been there and we've all gotten past it.  Hang in there!

I have a Byrnes saw and can do a reasonable job of ripping my own, in fact I did for my current model since I couldn’t find anything and still had a few billets from Jeff. It’s just that I prefer not to, I don’t do it enough to be good at it and I don’t have the proper ventilation to rip something like ebony. 
 
Even with that, I’m still looking for a source for quality woods in sheets in 3-5mm thicknesses. I’ll try some of the sites listed.  I do miss Hobby Mill, didn’t realize how good I had it with Jeff. 

I see Crown Timberyard is also now out of business. Anyone have a good source still in business as of February 2020?

Agree with everyone, start over, filler can't get you there from here.  You can find lime wood for the first planking cheap enough.  No offense but not sure you read Chucks Planking process correctly.  I just followed it for my current build and had great results.  I don't agree that soaking is the way to go, that can lead to warping and swelling. I think your issue is more one of not tapering enough (or at all) at the bow (and too much at the stern) and not using Chuck's sideways bending technique.  Get Chuck's hull outlining .pdf to see how to measure and mark the hull.  I've always managed by guesstimates on prior models but learned a lot by doing it in detail and with more precision with this latest hull.  
 
Have heart, we've all been there and we've all gotten past it.  Hang in there!

No unfortunately in the USA there are no longer sources for milled strips of Boxwood,  holly or Swiss Pear.   There are only a few businesses left and they are all outside of the USA.  I am afraid that the only way folks are going to get stripwood like this moving forward is to invest in a good hobby saw like the Byrnes and buy sheets to mill your own strips.  Not only is it cheaper but after a short time you will get really good at it.
 
you can find domestic stuff like basswood or cherry but the sizes are limited.  Taking your models to the next level means learning how to use a saw like the Byrnes saw to rip your own strips.  Its not a good business to be in and it is unlikely that anyone will jump into this space to replace hobbymill.   

Yes Jeff certainly spoiled us all.  I miss the service every day.

I have a Byrnes saw and can do a reasonable job of ripping my own, in fact I did for my current model since I couldn’t find anything and still had a few billets from Jeff. It’s just that I prefer not to, I don’t do it enough to be good at it and I don’t have the proper ventilation to rip something like ebony. 
 
Even with that, I’m still looking for a source for quality woods in sheets in 3-5mm thicknesses. I’ll try some of the sites listed.  I do miss Hobby Mill, didn’t realize how good I had it with Jeff. 

The easiest thing to do is use water based acrylic - I use Admiralty paints but there are any number of options.  No headaches with water-based.

I'll be interested to see how it comes out.  My current plan is to use the engraved deck and see how that comes out.  I've planked every ship with holly or ash, spent all the time doing it and then once the ship is built out and rigged its not all that noticeable. I get the master builder point and the nuance of all modelers - and the fact that before now we really didn't have a choice. But maybe on this one I'll just enjoy the engraved deck.  The Speedy might be the first kit I don't bash.
 
One thing that did jump out is how wide the planks on the engraved deck are, mine are normally 4-5mm.
 
One point to check before you get to far is making sure the cannon still fit in the gun ports with the thicker planking..

As long as no copper is involved...🤣
I’ll look forward to seeing the different design and likely will be a customer despite my whining about big ships😏
 

Sounds like a great plan. I’ll look forward to watching your development of the Bristol, I’ll probably buy it and wait for a frigate too.  I think I’ll be set for the next couple of years:-)

This is a small thing but great for modelers, I like to build but making round axels out of square ones many many times not so much fun. Thanks for this “innovation.” 

I’m sure the Bristol will be another great model, but after the Vanguard I’m not sure I’m ever going to be up for another big gun ship. Do you have any nice frigates on your radar, one of Cochrane’s perhaps?
 
I’m reading the book you recommended, he was a fascinating guy.  The Imperieuse would be a fun build...he said hopefully...:-)

I think this is a great idea, us average guys always have fun with rabbits and bearding lines...not me.  I look forward to how this turns out applied to a larger model.

As long as no copper is involved...🤣
I’ll look forward to seeing the different design and likely will be a customer despite my whining about big ships😏
 

Sounds like a great plan. I’ll look forward to watching your development of the Bristol, I’ll probably buy it and wait for a frigate too.  I think I’ll be set for the next couple of years:-)

This is a small thing but great for modelers, I like to build but making round axels out of square ones many many times not so much fun. Thanks for this “innovation.” 

I'd had an interest or two in my Fair American model.  The link I had in my signature line went to "another site" so thinking that might be bad form I created a gallery for the completed model here on MSW under of course, Galleries. I hope you enjoy.
 
Sorry the HM Granado photos still go to that other site, I don't have the original photos on my computer any more so...

I'd had an interest or two in my Fair American model.  The link I had in my signature line went to "another site" so thinking that might be bad form I created a gallery for the completed model here on MSW under of course, Galleries. I hope you enjoy.
 
Sorry the HM Granado photos still go to that other site, I don't have the original photos on my computer any more so...

As long as no copper is involved...🤣
I’ll look forward to seeing the different design and likely will be a customer despite my whining about big ships😏
 

Sounds like a great plan. I’ll look forward to watching your development of the Bristol, I’ll probably buy it and wait for a frigate too.  I think I’ll be set for the next couple of years:-)