Elia

Eyebolts
 
Not much time being spent in the shipyard of late, so progress has been extremely slow.  I thought I’d at least post a “micro-update” before the close of the year.  I made the carriage eyebolts using the guidelines provided by B.E., along with the suggestions for fabrication received here:
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4308-in-need-of-tips-and-techniques-for-making-eyebolts/
 
 
Using 28 gauge copper wire, I chose to go with the "twist method" nicely illustrated by SpyGlass here:
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3336-securing-eyebolts/page-2#entry107526
 
 
I followed that process, including use of the clothes peg, with one minor adjustment.  To free up a hand, after using the pliers to pull the ends of the wire through the hole in the clothes pin, I used a small clamp to hold them.  Straddling the legs of the clamp over the pliers as shown, prevented it from rotating while turning the drill bit in the eye (not shown).
 

 
 
Time to motivate, and get these blackened and installed in the carriages!
 
Happy New Year to all.
 
Robert

Thank you very much, Michael.   Best wishes for a happy new year to you and yours!
 
Current activity in the workshop:
 
Removed the last strake of planking.  I might be able to reuse this, or some of it, for the washboard.  My pencil marks on the keel for the frame locations, every 12 inches in scale, are visible--
 

 
 
Wetting and clamping the frames in to set the curve.  After immersing a length of frame stock in boiling water for 20 to 30 seconds, I slowly bend it around the plug.  After that's successfully done (I've lost some material because the wood sometimes doesn't hold together around the sharper curves), I cut the frame piece from the longer length, and transfer it to the hull shell.  Dealing with my fingers and the clothes pins, I can only place a few of these at a time----
 

 
 
Since wetting the wood expands the grain, (and it doesn't shrink back completely, or smoothly, when dry), I've cut these a little full.  When dry I'll need to sand them down to about 1/32 inch square--1 1/2 inch in scale, before gluing them in.  
 
Ron

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 32 – Frame Alignment/Fairing
 
The aft half and cant frames are bolted to the sides of the keelson/deadwood, so these cannot be installed until that assembly is in place.  The keelson comes first, but to install that it is necessary to have the inboard faces of at least the floor timbers well faired.
 
The first step was to check and, if necessary, adjust the alignment of the installed square frames.  The first picture shows this being done with a batten.
 

 
It can be seen in this picture that there is a gap over the center frame.  To correct this, the pin holding the top of the frame to the ribband was removed and the frame pushed downward slightly on this side to adjust it outward.  A new pinhole was drilled while holding the corrected position – as shown in the next photo.
 

 
All the frames aft of 0, on both sides were checked and five or six were adjusted in this way before proceeding with the next steps.
 
The outsides of the frames between the floor heads and the ribbands were then faired as shown in the next picture. 
 

 
In this picture a cabinet scraper is being used on this part of the hull.  This tool has some advantages for this.  First, it works with the grain so sanding out cross grain scratches is reduced.  More importantly, it allows you to easily see when the frames have been leveled out – or which frames are out of line.  Pre beveling of the frames before setting greatly reduces the amount of work in this step.  No cross grain sanding was necessary in these areas.
 
With the outside of the frames faired out, the floors could be faired to receive the keelson.  This fairing was done out to the floor heads.  A rotary tool with a flapper wheel as shown in the next picture was used for some of this, so taking this fairing out at least to the floor heads is advisable before installing the keelson.
 

 
This tool also has the advantage that it sands with the grain.  In the next picture the fairness is being checked at the floor heads.  The frames above the floor heads are still a bit rough.
 

 
Finally the joint face with the keelson is leveled out as shown below.
 

 
All this work was done in the forebody earlier to install the forward part of the keelson and the forward deadwood.  The next picture shows the first section of the lower tier of the aft keelson installed.  Copper wire bolts through every other frame have been inserted through into the keel and epoxied.  The frames are now well secured.
 

 
The next section of the upper keelson tier is ready to be installed.  The dark areas are still damp from washing off the epoxy for the bolts with isopropanol.
 
The central model support bolt hole comes through the aft end of the keelson section in this picture.  The next task will be to cut a mortise around that hole to insert a nut – next time.
 
Ed

Thank you Druxey.   I just made some .062 rope yesterday.   So I just ran down to the shop to cut the ends off with a sharp fresh blade.  You can see that there is no unraveling at all.   This is a six strand rope.  Initially my six strand rope did unravel and it took me months to adjust my twisting and ratios before i got it just right.  I do fear that those who initially bought my larger rope may experience some unraveling,  but once you get the tension correct and the hardening correct you wont have any issues.   I have since stopped using an automated machine like the ones offered and have reverted back to using my hand held version.  The  rope is manually twisted and then hardened afterwards.  None of my rope will unravel now that I have the ratios correct.
 
 
After making thousands of feet of rope in just a few months I began to get a feel for the tension in the line.  I believe that this "feel"  can only be ascertained by making the rope by hand and getting accustomed to what the right "feel" of tension and spring I can sense while holding the end of my rope walk and the line.  I also examine the lay of the rope and have a sense for what is correct now.   I also do this when twisting the initial individual strands.  Its a matter of feeling that it is correct.
 
Last month I brought my rope walk into my club meeting and made a 21 foot length of .045 rope in about 10 minutes.  It initially started out as three strands of thread that were 26 feet long.  After twisting the individual strands...they were now just 20 feet long.  Give or take.   After twisting all three strands together the line was lightly waxed and then hardened.   This stretched the rope to 21 feet long and as soon as I finished it up...I cut the rope in half with a sharp blade to show how the rope would not unravel...
 
It is absolutely possible.
 
Chuck
 
 

The plastic stuff in kits is treated and thats why it wont unravel.  Same is true for the natural stuff.  But not all laid rope will unravel.  If properly hardened after laying it up it certainly wont unravel.  My rope wont unravel at all.  If you use a sharp...sharp blade this is especially true.  Using a dull blade may make the ends start to frizz up a bit.   My larger ropes may unravel a little bit,  but not too much.  I have since created a method to ensure that doesnt happen.
 
The smaller sizes will not unravel at all....The key is getting the opposing tensions in balance.  If you dont wind the three strands initially enough times then it is most likely the final rope will unravel.   That is usually the mistake that is made.   When I first started making rope,  that was the case.  But I kept increasing the amount of twist in the initial strands until I was doing it four times as much.    Each time I increased it....the rope unraveled less.    Also remember not to over twist all three strands together.  That will cause kinking in the final rope.   You must through trial and error strike the correct balance in the tension.
 
Chuck

And I am proud to myself.
 
First freeing port is finished.
 
Eleven more to go

View from outside



View from inside

Ron,
 
That is outstanding. Clinker planking is intimidating to me and you've made a sweet ship's boat with clinker planking. Sweet.
 
Elia

Build Update:
 
Completed all masts, bowsprit, yards.  
 
Couple of things I deviated from plans:  Drawing shows boarding pikes going through both mast rings.  I brought the lower one down, so pike bases would rest on ring bottom.  
Some of the smaller yards said for center to be 16 parts instead of the usual 8 parts (with or without battens).  I just left these rounded.  This scale don't think would have shown.  I also left top gallant yards rounded for same reasons.
 
Next up all the blocks and such to be added to these pieces.
 
Everyone:  Wishing all the best upcoming year yet.  Happy New Year and hoping Santa brought everything you wanted.
 
Happy modeling,
Len

Main moldings are installed except for the gallery. Like this we can have an idea of the volume. I like the idea to alternaternate between work inside and outside the model

Thank you for your nice words.
 
Building time comparisons: previously built  a 74 gun ship at 1/48 and 1/24. It took the same time to build each one, so size is just a matter of space.
 
To have some space you must take some time to think where to store your tools and you need many drawers. By example,recently I regrouped the little tools.
 
in a home made old school chest with 16 drawers, For this matter square feet is important not volume, meaning  many 1 inch high drawers. Just for this chest, if you put all the drawers  together, you get 41 square feet. Before that,  all these little tools were stored in many different places.
 
I do not do this professionnally, I just do it because I like it.
  

Thank you Jacob, when I began my first model ship which was from plastic, I had no tools. I was working on the kitchen table.
 
On the last 2 pictures, we can see the effect with or without moldings. Building sequences is exactly as for a house: framing, cover the frames with planks, moldings and finishing.

The use of the original drawings are necessary to understand the scluptures composition because there are too many differences  with the other provided drawings.
 
Actually, I am working on the upper moldings and trying to evaluate their composition.

Thank you Sherry, and the work continues!

Thanks, Russ, and Dan.
 
Planking finished.   Still some minor glue clean up to do on the exterior (and a lot on the interior, but that may wait until the frames are in), and some more sanding is needed, especially at the bow.  But maybe the hardest part of the cutter is done (hopefully)? 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
I'm pretty happy with the starboard side, which will be the more visible side in the finished model display.
 
 
Next will be cutting the frame slots into the hull plug.
 
Ron
 
 
 
 

Greetings,
 
My next step was to attach the backrest to the  forward turret race.  This unit is made from two pieces of photo etch brass, the back rest has to be shaped so it will fit the rearward section of the turret race.  After the shaping and fitting is completed it's then glued to the race with CA glue.  
 
Cheers,
Tim
 

 

 

 

 
 
 

Tim,
 
Neat build. Atlantic is one sleek ship. I've always admired it and considered the kit as a future build. I really look forward to seeing your half hull develop.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Greetings,
 
It's a rainy, gloomy and windy day in Hampton Roads, (winds are gusting to 27mph, 23.46 knots, a perfect day to stay inside and work on a model.  
 
These are the latest photos of my work on the Schooner Atlantic half hull, as you can see she is taking shape rather well and I'm pleased at the progress.  The photos show me checking the shape at each point then sanding and rechecking.  At this point I'm too close to the correct shape to use a chisel to remove excess wood because I don't want to use any filler which would ruin the natural mahogany I plan to show below the waterline.  It's best to take my time and remove a little wood each time.
 
Cheers,
Tim
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks, Sam.  I do like the look of the lap strake planking.
 
Elmer, good luck with your Oneida.
 
Planking the cutter continues.  The usual procedure is cut and bend a few planks, wait for them to dry, then sand to shape and glue.  
 

 
 
A few strakes after that last photo, I decided I wasn't happy with the way the planks were developing at the bow on the starboard side.  I had also made a mistake with the planking shift on one starboard strake, so those two issues compelled me to take a backwards step and remove a few planks.  There's very little glue holding them.  A few wipes with Isopropyl alcohol, and they come off pretty easily--
 

 
 
Here's where I'm at now, waiting for these planks to dry, so I thought I would post a little update--
 

 

 
 
I have six planks (one and a half strakes on each side) to go, I may be able to finish the planking today.
 
Ron

Alfons,
 
Thank you. I have no doubt you would make absolutely outstanding chainplates if you chose to.
 
Funny thing - when I ordered the deadeyes from Blue Jacket I hadn't realized that the lower deadeyes were doubled stropped. So I had ordered single grooved deadeyes. In fact, Blue Jacket sells double stropped deadeyes! And they also sell entire stropped deadeye/stropped/chainplate Britannia castings! Ordering those would have surely made my life easier. But then I wouldn't have had this modeling experience, one I'm thankful to have worked through.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Small progress update Arethusa. I've been working more of the fiddly bits of ironwork for the deck. Following are chainplate assemblies.

I mentioned previously that I was 'stuck' on making the double stropped lower deadeyes. I had fashioned the strops from 0.015" diameter brass wire, looping it around two pins a given distance apart on a wood board. I pinched the wire adjacent to each pin, and soldered the overlap of the two free ends with Stay Brite solder. After trimming the excess, and sanding the soldered end into somewhat reasonable shape I used a drill bit which as about the same diameter as the deadeyes to create the strop shape. Pliers were used to straighten the 'lug' ends of the strop. Once those were all formed I painted the entire strop dull silver except for the non-soldered lug end.

Here is a photo of the some of the parts in manufacturing sequence. On the left is a straight strop after the one end was soldered and sanding/filed. Next to it is a formed hoop strop, the deadeye, the brass rivet, and the chainplate. Next is the soldered assembly. And last is the assembly with the rivet stem trimmed off.



Here is a photo of all of the parts prior to mass soldering production:


Here is a photo of my soldering pad and the assembly secured with wire and a pin:

I placed the manufactured 0.8mm head diameter rivet head at the end of the strop which had been soldered so that the other end, which would be soldered to the unpainted strop was as far away from the strop soldered joint as possible - to mitigate as much as possible the heat from the full assembly soldering from damaging the first soldered joint. This may have been overkill, as the second soldered joint was made using TIX, which has a melt temp of 270F, whereas Stay Brite has a melt temp of 450F or so. In any case the plan worked acceptably. There were variations in forming of the strop loops, and the soldered joints, resulting in more than I want, but all in all acceptable to proceed with.

The final parts assembled, trimmed, and touch up silver paint applied.


Soon I'll install them on the ship.

Cheers,

Elia

Greetings,
 
Photos showing on the forward gun tub.  I used my disk sander to work the tub to proper length.  The forward tube should have a small amount of "Forward Rake" to it.
 
Cheers,
Tim
 

 

 

 

 
 

Small progress update Arethusa. I've been working more of the fiddly bits of ironwork for the deck. Following are chainplate assemblies.

I mentioned previously that I was 'stuck' on making the double stropped lower deadeyes. I had fashioned the strops from 0.015" diameter brass wire, looping it around two pins a given distance apart on a wood board. I pinched the wire adjacent to each pin, and soldered the overlap of the two free ends with Stay Brite solder. After trimming the excess, and sanding the soldered end into somewhat reasonable shape I used a drill bit which as about the same diameter as the deadeyes to create the strop shape. Pliers were used to straighten the 'lug' ends of the strop. Once those were all formed I painted the entire strop dull silver except for the non-soldered lug end.

Here is a photo of the some of the parts in manufacturing sequence. On the left is a straight strop after the one end was soldered and sanding/filed. Next to it is a formed hoop strop, the deadeye, the brass rivet, and the chainplate. Next is the soldered assembly. And last is the assembly with the rivet stem trimmed off.



Here is a photo of all of the parts prior to mass soldering production:


Here is a photo of my soldering pad and the assembly secured with wire and a pin:

I placed the manufactured 0.8mm head diameter rivet head at the end of the strop which had been soldered so that the other end, which would be soldered to the unpainted strop was as far away from the strop soldered joint as possible - to mitigate as much as possible the heat from the full assembly soldering from damaging the first soldered joint. This may have been overkill, as the second soldered joint was made using TIX, which has a melt temp of 270F, whereas Stay Brite has a melt temp of 450F or so. In any case the plan worked acceptably. There were variations in forming of the strop loops, and the soldered joints, resulting in more than I want, but all in all acceptable to proceed with.

The final parts assembled, trimmed, and touch up silver paint applied.


Soon I'll install them on the ship.

Cheers,

Elia

Small progress update Arethusa. I've been working more of the fiddly bits of ironwork for the deck. Following are chainplate assemblies.

I mentioned previously that I was 'stuck' on making the double stropped lower deadeyes. I had fashioned the strops from 0.015" diameter brass wire, looping it around two pins a given distance apart on a wood board. I pinched the wire adjacent to each pin, and soldered the overlap of the two free ends with Stay Brite solder. After trimming the excess, and sanding the soldered end into somewhat reasonable shape I used a drill bit which as about the same diameter as the deadeyes to create the strop shape. Pliers were used to straighten the 'lug' ends of the strop. Once those were all formed I painted the entire strop dull silver except for the non-soldered lug end.

Here is a photo of the some of the parts in manufacturing sequence. On the left is a straight strop after the one end was soldered and sanding/filed. Next to it is a formed hoop strop, the deadeye, the brass rivet, and the chainplate. Next is the soldered assembly. And last is the assembly with the rivet stem trimmed off.



Here is a photo of all of the parts prior to mass soldering production:


Here is a photo of my soldering pad and the assembly secured with wire and a pin:

I placed the manufactured 0.8mm head diameter rivet head at the end of the strop which had been soldered so that the other end, which would be soldered to the unpainted strop was as far away from the strop soldered joint as possible - to mitigate as much as possible the heat from the full assembly soldering from damaging the first soldered joint. This may have been overkill, as the second soldered joint was made using TIX, which has a melt temp of 270F, whereas Stay Brite has a melt temp of 450F or so. In any case the plan worked acceptably. There were variations in forming of the strop loops, and the soldered joints, resulting in more than I want, but all in all acceptable to proceed with.

The final parts assembled, trimmed, and touch up silver paint applied.


Soon I'll install them on the ship.

Cheers,

Elia

Small progress update Arethusa. I've been working more of the fiddly bits of ironwork for the deck. Following are chainplate assemblies.

I mentioned previously that I was 'stuck' on making the double stropped lower deadeyes. I had fashioned the strops from 0.015" diameter brass wire, looping it around two pins a given distance apart on a wood board. I pinched the wire adjacent to each pin, and soldered the overlap of the two free ends with Stay Brite solder. After trimming the excess, and sanding the soldered end into somewhat reasonable shape I used a drill bit which as about the same diameter as the deadeyes to create the strop shape. Pliers were used to straighten the 'lug' ends of the strop. Once those were all formed I painted the entire strop dull silver except for the non-soldered lug end.

Here is a photo of the some of the parts in manufacturing sequence. On the left is a straight strop after the one end was soldered and sanding/filed. Next to it is a formed hoop strop, the deadeye, the brass rivet, and the chainplate. Next is the soldered assembly. And last is the assembly with the rivet stem trimmed off.



Here is a photo of all of the parts prior to mass soldering production:


Here is a photo of my soldering pad and the assembly secured with wire and a pin:

I placed the manufactured 0.8mm head diameter rivet head at the end of the strop which had been soldered so that the other end, which would be soldered to the unpainted strop was as far away from the strop soldered joint as possible - to mitigate as much as possible the heat from the full assembly soldering from damaging the first soldered joint. This may have been overkill, as the second soldered joint was made using TIX, which has a melt temp of 270F, whereas Stay Brite has a melt temp of 450F or so. In any case the plan worked acceptably. There were variations in forming of the strop loops, and the soldered joints, resulting in more than I want, but all in all acceptable to proceed with.

The final parts assembled, trimmed, and touch up silver paint applied.


Soon I'll install them on the ship.

Cheers,

Elia

After finishing ratlines (a few have come loose, trimmed too close) and have set the topsails. It was a bit tricky to seize the sails to the mast hoops in amongst the rigging but not too difficult. I keep bumping some of the stays and knocking them loose. Fortunately, I read a hint to leave the seizings untrimmed and set them later. It’s certainly easier to retighten stays than to cut them off and seize new ones.
 
Now I am on to the jibs and plan to sew the hanks onto the sails off the ship. This will mean replacing the stays but it seems easier then trying to sew them on the ship. So, when is the best time to set the sails? In hindsight, I would have set the jibs earlier and avoided some rework.  The ship are always a learning experience.
 
Topsails set.

 
Fore top

 
Main top

 
Dave B