Elia

Michael,
 
The carb and manifold look superb and compliment the rest of thar little jewel of an engine. Beautiful work. And a big congratulations on your and Judy's anniversary!
 
All the best,
 
Elia

Ok I have started a new thread in shore leave regarding  hoarding
 
 
 
Pete I am sending you a PM.
 
 
Now back to the boat.
 
Skipjack parts are now tidy
 

 

 
Michael

Patrick, Jay, Lawrence,
 
Thanks for the dory comments. And thanks to all of those who've "liked" my posts. Tonight I spent some time with putty filling in the small open faps between the planks. I'm not sure how either the mold material nor tbe casting resin flows and what width gap won't or will show up, so a little filler I think will help in the process and aid a good flow of the resin from the planks adjacent on the sides and to the stem and trasom. We shall see. Something I'm not certain of, either, is how thin I can make some of the little frame details and get resin flowing into them. With a little time this weekend i'll work on the molds.
 
Lawrence,
 
You are a dory building machine! I find when I'm making multiples of some item I fine tune my process as I progress and usually my first efforts aren't up to the quality or consistency of my later efforts. I think all your dories look very good and any of them will complement your fibe schooner model.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Patrick, Jay, Lawrence,
 
Thanks for the dory comments. And thanks to all of those who've "liked" my posts. Tonight I spent some time with putty filling in the small open faps between the planks. I'm not sure how either the mold material nor tbe casting resin flows and what width gap won't or will show up, so a little filler I think will help in the process and aid a good flow of the resin from the planks adjacent on the sides and to the stem and trasom. We shall see. Something I'm not certain of, either, is how thin I can make some of the little frame details and get resin flowing into them. With a little time this weekend i'll work on the molds.
 
Lawrence,
 
You are a dory building machine! I find when I'm making multiples of some item I fine tune my process as I progress and usually my first efforts aren't up to the quality or consistency of my later efforts. I think all your dories look very good and any of them will complement your fibe schooner model.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Patrick, Jay, Lawrence,
 
Thanks for the dory comments. And thanks to all of those who've "liked" my posts. Tonight I spent some time with putty filling in the small open faps between the planks. I'm not sure how either the mold material nor tbe casting resin flows and what width gap won't or will show up, so a little filler I think will help in the process and aid a good flow of the resin from the planks adjacent on the sides and to the stem and trasom. We shall see. Something I'm not certain of, either, is how thin I can make some of the little frame details and get resin flowing into them. With a little time this weekend i'll work on the molds.
 
Lawrence,
 
You are a dory building machine! I find when I'm making multiples of some item I fine tune my process as I progress and usually my first efforts aren't up to the quality or consistency of my later efforts. I think all your dories look very good and any of them will complement your fibe schooner model.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Patrick, Jay, Lawrence,
 
Thanks for the dory comments. And thanks to all of those who've "liked" my posts. Tonight I spent some time with putty filling in the small open faps between the planks. I'm not sure how either the mold material nor tbe casting resin flows and what width gap won't or will show up, so a little filler I think will help in the process and aid a good flow of the resin from the planks adjacent on the sides and to the stem and trasom. We shall see. Something I'm not certain of, either, is how thin I can make some of the little frame details and get resin flowing into them. With a little time this weekend i'll work on the molds.
 
Lawrence,
 
You are a dory building machine! I find when I'm making multiples of some item I fine tune my process as I progress and usually my first efforts aren't up to the quality or consistency of my later efforts. I think all your dories look very good and any of them will complement your fibe schooner model.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Thanks  all for the likes and inquiry's
I have been looking after some domestic issues related to cleaning up almost 20 years worth of collecting junk around the yard (6 trailer loads) in anticipation of moving to the coast in the near future, The next time Maria sees open water it will be somewhere between the Mainland and Vancouver Island. I have kept her eyes hidden from the early break up of the lake this year, knowing that bigger water beckons.
 
My next shop will be very tidy and tools will all have their own special places, no clutter will be allowed, each project will have proper storage of parts and materials as they progress!
 
I am a reformed Hoarder, My time will be better spent building models and not sorting and organizing and looking for something that I collected 20 or 30 years ago, for instance I really only need about twenty feet of very fine spring wire not 3 miles, All the containers of little pieces of cut wood continue to grow with no signs of them getting used (it is easier to cut new for what I need) I just need to learn to not cut so many extra bits that then get stacked.
 
I will be taking good planks and billets of special hardwood to the new shop, plus a smaller assortment of metal bar and sheet stock, all the tiny off cuts will not be traveling west.
 
It is a serious learning curve, but I am a determined student, I am going to live the next 30 years clutter free which is really exciting.
 
Michael 

Last fall I began tinkering with making a dory for my schooner with the idea of casting them in resin. The reasoning for casting them was that I didn’t think my build precision and tolerances could yield a stack of dories (5-6) in which the nested dories would resemble real stacks of dories which pack together fairly tightly.

I used a plan for a 15 foot (measured along the bottom of the dory) version. This is representative of the dories used during Arethusa’s era, and the length of dory used for halibut, cod, and other larger dory trawling fishing.

The first photo shows the plans I used.
The second photo shows the bulkheads aligned on a small build board. The transom and stem were extended to the build board and glued in place. Later on they were judiciously cut off the build board once the planking was complete.


The third photo shows the strakes used on the sides of the hull. The largest width strakes could have been left straight; I chose to pre-cut the lower edge to aid in alignment with the bottom plank. Take note that the upper strakes are purely straight planks with no in-plane spiling. This was very common.


The fourth photo shows the bottom surface glued and secured in place. The bottom has a slight rocker or camber (fore-aft) to it.


The fifth photo shows the second strake glued in place. The lap strake assembly method presented slight challenges to me. I tried applying the very small bevel to the mating surfaces of the adjoining strakes. When assembling it was difficult to get the strakes to stay in the correct spot as the bevels and the clamps (applying force - to the beveled surfaces) resulted in the upper strake/plank moving.


The sixth photo shows the dory with planking complete and cut off the build board. You can see the extended stem and transom in this photo.


The seventh photo shows the dory upside down.


I’ve done a little clean up on the dory, having trimmed down the stem and transom and will add the rail strips. I received a starter resin casting set for my birthday and my casting attempts will follow shortly.

Cheers,

Elia

Hello Shipmates, Elia-Slog-Lawrence-Edwin-Nigel-Greg-Mike-Salty dog, thank you very much for your likes, comments and also for passing by. As I said above summer has arrived....and the weather is not suitable for ship building..     So I don't have much to show, only some little progress on the 1st boat.. :)
 
Cheers
Dimitris

Last fall I began tinkering with making a dory for my schooner with the idea of casting them in resin. The reasoning for casting them was that I didn’t think my build precision and tolerances could yield a stack of dories (5-6) in which the nested dories would resemble real stacks of dories which pack together fairly tightly.

I used a plan for a 15 foot (measured along the bottom of the dory) version. This is representative of the dories used during Arethusa’s era, and the length of dory used for halibut, cod, and other larger dory trawling fishing.

The first photo shows the plans I used.
The second photo shows the bulkheads aligned on a small build board. The transom and stem were extended to the build board and glued in place. Later on they were judiciously cut off the build board once the planking was complete.


The third photo shows the strakes used on the sides of the hull. The largest width strakes could have been left straight; I chose to pre-cut the lower edge to aid in alignment with the bottom plank. Take note that the upper strakes are purely straight planks with no in-plane spiling. This was very common.


The fourth photo shows the bottom surface glued and secured in place. The bottom has a slight rocker or camber (fore-aft) to it.


The fifth photo shows the second strake glued in place. The lap strake assembly method presented slight challenges to me. I tried applying the very small bevel to the mating surfaces of the adjoining strakes. When assembling it was difficult to get the strakes to stay in the correct spot as the bevels and the clamps (applying force - to the beveled surfaces) resulted in the upper strake/plank moving.


The sixth photo shows the dory with planking complete and cut off the build board. You can see the extended stem and transom in this photo.


The seventh photo shows the dory upside down.


I’ve done a little clean up on the dory, having trimmed down the stem and transom and will add the rail strips. I received a starter resin casting set for my birthday and my casting attempts will follow shortly.

Cheers,

Elia

Shipyard time has been tight and will remain that way for a while but I wanted to post a small update.  The manger is a triangular area at the bow formed by removable wood partitions.  A scupper drains the water that accumulates from hauling in the anchor cables.  It fits into a waterway to prevent the water from seeping under the manger wall onto the upper deck.  
 

 

 

 

 

Last fall I began tinkering with making a dory for my schooner with the idea of casting them in resin. The reasoning for casting them was that I didn’t think my build precision and tolerances could yield a stack of dories (5-6) in which the nested dories would resemble real stacks of dories which pack together fairly tightly.

I used a plan for a 15 foot (measured along the bottom of the dory) version. This is representative of the dories used during Arethusa’s era, and the length of dory used for halibut, cod, and other larger dory trawling fishing.

The first photo shows the plans I used.
The second photo shows the bulkheads aligned on a small build board. The transom and stem were extended to the build board and glued in place. Later on they were judiciously cut off the build board once the planking was complete.


The third photo shows the strakes used on the sides of the hull. The largest width strakes could have been left straight; I chose to pre-cut the lower edge to aid in alignment with the bottom plank. Take note that the upper strakes are purely straight planks with no in-plane spiling. This was very common.


The fourth photo shows the bottom surface glued and secured in place. The bottom has a slight rocker or camber (fore-aft) to it.


The fifth photo shows the second strake glued in place. The lap strake assembly method presented slight challenges to me. I tried applying the very small bevel to the mating surfaces of the adjoining strakes. When assembling it was difficult to get the strakes to stay in the correct spot as the bevels and the clamps (applying force - to the beveled surfaces) resulted in the upper strake/plank moving.


The sixth photo shows the dory with planking complete and cut off the build board. You can see the extended stem and transom in this photo.


The seventh photo shows the dory upside down.


I’ve done a little clean up on the dory, having trimmed down the stem and transom and will add the rail strips. I received a starter resin casting set for my birthday and my casting attempts will follow shortly.

Cheers,

Elia

Last fall I began tinkering with making a dory for my schooner with the idea of casting them in resin. The reasoning for casting them was that I didn’t think my build precision and tolerances could yield a stack of dories (5-6) in which the nested dories would resemble real stacks of dories which pack together fairly tightly.

I used a plan for a 15 foot (measured along the bottom of the dory) version. This is representative of the dories used during Arethusa’s era, and the length of dory used for halibut, cod, and other larger dory trawling fishing.

The first photo shows the plans I used.
The second photo shows the bulkheads aligned on a small build board. The transom and stem were extended to the build board and glued in place. Later on they were judiciously cut off the build board once the planking was complete.


The third photo shows the strakes used on the sides of the hull. The largest width strakes could have been left straight; I chose to pre-cut the lower edge to aid in alignment with the bottom plank. Take note that the upper strakes are purely straight planks with no in-plane spiling. This was very common.


The fourth photo shows the bottom surface glued and secured in place. The bottom has a slight rocker or camber (fore-aft) to it.


The fifth photo shows the second strake glued in place. The lap strake assembly method presented slight challenges to me. I tried applying the very small bevel to the mating surfaces of the adjoining strakes. When assembling it was difficult to get the strakes to stay in the correct spot as the bevels and the clamps (applying force - to the beveled surfaces) resulted in the upper strake/plank moving.


The sixth photo shows the dory with planking complete and cut off the build board. You can see the extended stem and transom in this photo.


The seventh photo shows the dory upside down.


I’ve done a little clean up on the dory, having trimmed down the stem and transom and will add the rail strips. I received a starter resin casting set for my birthday and my casting attempts will follow shortly.

Cheers,

Elia

Last fall I began tinkering with making a dory for my schooner with the idea of casting them in resin. The reasoning for casting them was that I didn’t think my build precision and tolerances could yield a stack of dories (5-6) in which the nested dories would resemble real stacks of dories which pack together fairly tightly.

I used a plan for a 15 foot (measured along the bottom of the dory) version. This is representative of the dories used during Arethusa’s era, and the length of dory used for halibut, cod, and other larger dory trawling fishing.

The first photo shows the plans I used.
The second photo shows the bulkheads aligned on a small build board. The transom and stem were extended to the build board and glued in place. Later on they were judiciously cut off the build board once the planking was complete.


The third photo shows the strakes used on the sides of the hull. The largest width strakes could have been left straight; I chose to pre-cut the lower edge to aid in alignment with the bottom plank. Take note that the upper strakes are purely straight planks with no in-plane spiling. This was very common.


The fourth photo shows the bottom surface glued and secured in place. The bottom has a slight rocker or camber (fore-aft) to it.


The fifth photo shows the second strake glued in place. The lap strake assembly method presented slight challenges to me. I tried applying the very small bevel to the mating surfaces of the adjoining strakes. When assembling it was difficult to get the strakes to stay in the correct spot as the bevels and the clamps (applying force - to the beveled surfaces) resulted in the upper strake/plank moving.


The sixth photo shows the dory with planking complete and cut off the build board. You can see the extended stem and transom in this photo.


The seventh photo shows the dory upside down.


I’ve done a little clean up on the dory, having trimmed down the stem and transom and will add the rail strips. I received a starter resin casting set for my birthday and my casting attempts will follow shortly.

Cheers,

Elia

I'm with Patrick--am very keen to see how the resin castings workout; never would have thought of that and think it's a great idea, Elia!
 
Cheers,
Jay

Hi Elia
 
Really nice job on the dory! I would never have thought of doing resin castings, so I'm keen to see how yours turn out.
 
All the best!
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Hi Elia
 
Happy Birthday!!! 21 years old I presume?
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Hi Elia,
Happy Birthday! Good luck always and everywhere for you!
 
Best REgards!
Igor.
 
P.S. I can't send PM to you...

Hello Elia, Have a great day... Happy Birthday!!! :) I cannot send you a pm either..
 
All the best
Dimitris

That sucks about the blotching, Elia--hope your fix works! I've had the same thing happen...recently came across stuff called "blotch control wood conditioner." It works much better than pre-stain conditioners for getting more even staining on difficult wood.
 
Cheers,
Jay

Last fall I began tinkering with making a dory for my schooner with the idea of casting them in resin. The reasoning for casting them was that I didn’t think my build precision and tolerances could yield a stack of dories (5-6) in which the nested dories would resemble real stacks of dories which pack together fairly tightly.

I used a plan for a 15 foot (measured along the bottom of the dory) version. This is representative of the dories used during Arethusa’s era, and the length of dory used for halibut, cod, and other larger dory trawling fishing.

The first photo shows the plans I used.
The second photo shows the bulkheads aligned on a small build board. The transom and stem were extended to the build board and glued in place. Later on they were judiciously cut off the build board once the planking was complete.


The third photo shows the strakes used on the sides of the hull. The largest width strakes could have been left straight; I chose to pre-cut the lower edge to aid in alignment with the bottom plank. Take note that the upper strakes are purely straight planks with no in-plane spiling. This was very common.


The fourth photo shows the bottom surface glued and secured in place. The bottom has a slight rocker or camber (fore-aft) to it.


The fifth photo shows the second strake glued in place. The lap strake assembly method presented slight challenges to me. I tried applying the very small bevel to the mating surfaces of the adjoining strakes. When assembling it was difficult to get the strakes to stay in the correct spot as the bevels and the clamps (applying force - to the beveled surfaces) resulted in the upper strake/plank moving.


The sixth photo shows the dory with planking complete and cut off the build board. You can see the extended stem and transom in this photo.


The seventh photo shows the dory upside down.


I’ve done a little clean up on the dory, having trimmed down the stem and transom and will add the rail strips. I received a starter resin casting set for my birthday and my casting attempts will follow shortly.

Cheers,

Elia

Last fall I began tinkering with making a dory for my schooner with the idea of casting them in resin. The reasoning for casting them was that I didn’t think my build precision and tolerances could yield a stack of dories (5-6) in which the nested dories would resemble real stacks of dories which pack together fairly tightly.

I used a plan for a 15 foot (measured along the bottom of the dory) version. This is representative of the dories used during Arethusa’s era, and the length of dory used for halibut, cod, and other larger dory trawling fishing.

The first photo shows the plans I used.
The second photo shows the bulkheads aligned on a small build board. The transom and stem were extended to the build board and glued in place. Later on they were judiciously cut off the build board once the planking was complete.


The third photo shows the strakes used on the sides of the hull. The largest width strakes could have been left straight; I chose to pre-cut the lower edge to aid in alignment with the bottom plank. Take note that the upper strakes are purely straight planks with no in-plane spiling. This was very common.


The fourth photo shows the bottom surface glued and secured in place. The bottom has a slight rocker or camber (fore-aft) to it.


The fifth photo shows the second strake glued in place. The lap strake assembly method presented slight challenges to me. I tried applying the very small bevel to the mating surfaces of the adjoining strakes. When assembling it was difficult to get the strakes to stay in the correct spot as the bevels and the clamps (applying force - to the beveled surfaces) resulted in the upper strake/plank moving.


The sixth photo shows the dory with planking complete and cut off the build board. You can see the extended stem and transom in this photo.


The seventh photo shows the dory upside down.


I’ve done a little clean up on the dory, having trimmed down the stem and transom and will add the rail strips. I received a starter resin casting set for my birthday and my casting attempts will follow shortly.

Cheers,

Elia

Last fall I began tinkering with making a dory for my schooner with the idea of casting them in resin. The reasoning for casting them was that I didn’t think my build precision and tolerances could yield a stack of dories (5-6) in which the nested dories would resemble real stacks of dories which pack together fairly tightly.

I used a plan for a 15 foot (measured along the bottom of the dory) version. This is representative of the dories used during Arethusa’s era, and the length of dory used for halibut, cod, and other larger dory trawling fishing.

The first photo shows the plans I used.
The second photo shows the bulkheads aligned on a small build board. The transom and stem were extended to the build board and glued in place. Later on they were judiciously cut off the build board once the planking was complete.


The third photo shows the strakes used on the sides of the hull. The largest width strakes could have been left straight; I chose to pre-cut the lower edge to aid in alignment with the bottom plank. Take note that the upper strakes are purely straight planks with no in-plane spiling. This was very common.


The fourth photo shows the bottom surface glued and secured in place. The bottom has a slight rocker or camber (fore-aft) to it.


The fifth photo shows the second strake glued in place. The lap strake assembly method presented slight challenges to me. I tried applying the very small bevel to the mating surfaces of the adjoining strakes. When assembling it was difficult to get the strakes to stay in the correct spot as the bevels and the clamps (applying force - to the beveled surfaces) resulted in the upper strake/plank moving.


The sixth photo shows the dory with planking complete and cut off the build board. You can see the extended stem and transom in this photo.


The seventh photo shows the dory upside down.


I’ve done a little clean up on the dory, having trimmed down the stem and transom and will add the rail strips. I received a starter resin casting set for my birthday and my casting attempts will follow shortly.

Cheers,

Elia

Last fall I began tinkering with making a dory for my schooner with the idea of casting them in resin. The reasoning for casting them was that I didn’t think my build precision and tolerances could yield a stack of dories (5-6) in which the nested dories would resemble real stacks of dories which pack together fairly tightly.

I used a plan for a 15 foot (measured along the bottom of the dory) version. This is representative of the dories used during Arethusa’s era, and the length of dory used for halibut, cod, and other larger dory trawling fishing.

The first photo shows the plans I used.
The second photo shows the bulkheads aligned on a small build board. The transom and stem were extended to the build board and glued in place. Later on they were judiciously cut off the build board once the planking was complete.


The third photo shows the strakes used on the sides of the hull. The largest width strakes could have been left straight; I chose to pre-cut the lower edge to aid in alignment with the bottom plank. Take note that the upper strakes are purely straight planks with no in-plane spiling. This was very common.


The fourth photo shows the bottom surface glued and secured in place. The bottom has a slight rocker or camber (fore-aft) to it.


The fifth photo shows the second strake glued in place. The lap strake assembly method presented slight challenges to me. I tried applying the very small bevel to the mating surfaces of the adjoining strakes. When assembling it was difficult to get the strakes to stay in the correct spot as the bevels and the clamps (applying force - to the beveled surfaces) resulted in the upper strake/plank moving.


The sixth photo shows the dory with planking complete and cut off the build board. You can see the extended stem and transom in this photo.


The seventh photo shows the dory upside down.


I’ve done a little clean up on the dory, having trimmed down the stem and transom and will add the rail strips. I received a starter resin casting set for my birthday and my casting attempts will follow shortly.

Cheers,

Elia

Last fall I began tinkering with making a dory for my schooner with the idea of casting them in resin. The reasoning for casting them was that I didn’t think my build precision and tolerances could yield a stack of dories (5-6) in which the nested dories would resemble real stacks of dories which pack together fairly tightly.

I used a plan for a 15 foot (measured along the bottom of the dory) version. This is representative of the dories used during Arethusa’s era, and the length of dory used for halibut, cod, and other larger dory trawling fishing.

The first photo shows the plans I used.
The second photo shows the bulkheads aligned on a small build board. The transom and stem were extended to the build board and glued in place. Later on they were judiciously cut off the build board once the planking was complete.


The third photo shows the strakes used on the sides of the hull. The largest width strakes could have been left straight; I chose to pre-cut the lower edge to aid in alignment with the bottom plank. Take note that the upper strakes are purely straight planks with no in-plane spiling. This was very common.


The fourth photo shows the bottom surface glued and secured in place. The bottom has a slight rocker or camber (fore-aft) to it.


The fifth photo shows the second strake glued in place. The lap strake assembly method presented slight challenges to me. I tried applying the very small bevel to the mating surfaces of the adjoining strakes. When assembling it was difficult to get the strakes to stay in the correct spot as the bevels and the clamps (applying force - to the beveled surfaces) resulted in the upper strake/plank moving.


The sixth photo shows the dory with planking complete and cut off the build board. You can see the extended stem and transom in this photo.


The seventh photo shows the dory upside down.


I’ve done a little clean up on the dory, having trimmed down the stem and transom and will add the rail strips. I received a starter resin casting set for my birthday and my casting attempts will follow shortly.

Cheers,

Elia