Elia

Last fall I began tinkering with making a dory for my schooner with the idea of casting them in resin. The reasoning for casting them was that I didn’t think my build precision and tolerances could yield a stack of dories (5-6) in which the nested dories would resemble real stacks of dories which pack together fairly tightly.

I used a plan for a 15 foot (measured along the bottom of the dory) version. This is representative of the dories used during Arethusa’s era, and the length of dory used for halibut, cod, and other larger dory trawling fishing.

The first photo shows the plans I used.
The second photo shows the bulkheads aligned on a small build board. The transom and stem were extended to the build board and glued in place. Later on they were judiciously cut off the build board once the planking was complete.


The third photo shows the strakes used on the sides of the hull. The largest width strakes could have been left straight; I chose to pre-cut the lower edge to aid in alignment with the bottom plank. Take note that the upper strakes are purely straight planks with no in-plane spiling. This was very common.


The fourth photo shows the bottom surface glued and secured in place. The bottom has a slight rocker or camber (fore-aft) to it.


The fifth photo shows the second strake glued in place. The lap strake assembly method presented slight challenges to me. I tried applying the very small bevel to the mating surfaces of the adjoining strakes. When assembling it was difficult to get the strakes to stay in the correct spot as the bevels and the clamps (applying force - to the beveled surfaces) resulted in the upper strake/plank moving.


The sixth photo shows the dory with planking complete and cut off the build board. You can see the extended stem and transom in this photo.


The seventh photo shows the dory upside down.


I’ve done a little clean up on the dory, having trimmed down the stem and transom and will add the rail strips. I received a starter resin casting set for my birthday and my casting attempts will follow shortly.

Cheers,

Elia

Last fall I began tinkering with making a dory for my schooner with the idea of casting them in resin. The reasoning for casting them was that I didn’t think my build precision and tolerances could yield a stack of dories (5-6) in which the nested dories would resemble real stacks of dories which pack together fairly tightly.

I used a plan for a 15 foot (measured along the bottom of the dory) version. This is representative of the dories used during Arethusa’s era, and the length of dory used for halibut, cod, and other larger dory trawling fishing.

The first photo shows the plans I used.
The second photo shows the bulkheads aligned on a small build board. The transom and stem were extended to the build board and glued in place. Later on they were judiciously cut off the build board once the planking was complete.


The third photo shows the strakes used on the sides of the hull. The largest width strakes could have been left straight; I chose to pre-cut the lower edge to aid in alignment with the bottom plank. Take note that the upper strakes are purely straight planks with no in-plane spiling. This was very common.


The fourth photo shows the bottom surface glued and secured in place. The bottom has a slight rocker or camber (fore-aft) to it.


The fifth photo shows the second strake glued in place. The lap strake assembly method presented slight challenges to me. I tried applying the very small bevel to the mating surfaces of the adjoining strakes. When assembling it was difficult to get the strakes to stay in the correct spot as the bevels and the clamps (applying force - to the beveled surfaces) resulted in the upper strake/plank moving.


The sixth photo shows the dory with planking complete and cut off the build board. You can see the extended stem and transom in this photo.


The seventh photo shows the dory upside down.


I’ve done a little clean up on the dory, having trimmed down the stem and transom and will add the rail strips. I received a starter resin casting set for my birthday and my casting attempts will follow shortly.

Cheers,

Elia

Final Bluenose post from me. I've taken it as far as I'm willing to. Might have to revise my motto because more things broke as I tried to repair others. She sits above my work station, and I have to say I'm amazed that she turned out as handsome as she did.
 
Next, Constructo's Louise.
 
John

Another small update.  I was pretty busy talking to visitors last time at the museum, however I did manage to get a bit more deck planking done.  I've also started on treenailing the deck and will continue this work as the deck progresses.
 
John
 

 

 

Thank you everyone for your kind thoughts.  She is sleeping right now so I have a few minutes to post my progress on the stove.
 
There are a lot of descriptions of the galley stove on MSW as well as in TFFM Vol 2, so I will not belabor that here.  The stove is a model in itself and I have been playing with it for a month already.  The first decision to be made was what materials to use.  This would also drive the construction technique.  I decided that this was a detailed "representation" of a stove but that no one would be cooking with it.  Therefore, sheet brass was eliminated from consideration except for details.  What I came up with is a collection of wood scraps, aluminum adhesive tape and shim brass.  The side panels have three larger doors and one small one.  
 

 
After these were made, a spacer was put in the middle of the stove and the fore and aft faces were constructed.  The bolts, cooktop and chimney were added.  The rest of the details will be added later.
 

 

 

 
The stove was fit in place on the model and was too tall.  So back to square one.  I shortened the height by 6" and it fits nicely.  It was painted with flat gray primer and flat black (Testors rattle can).
 

 

 
I am sorry the pictures are not of be best quality.  It is hard to pick out details on a black object so I played with Photoshop so you could see more than a black blob.  The lids for the pots are brass sheet which was drilled for the brass wire handles.  So far I am happy with the results.  It actually looks like a stove! 
 

 
Next up will be adding the details to the stove, making the base plate and installation.

Let me give you an example of life getting in the way.  For the last 8 days I have been dealing with a sick dog.  To make a long story short, my 12 y/o dog stopped eating and was obviously in pain.  Two trips to the vet later, an X ray demonstrated a foreign body in her stomach.  Off to surgery we go.  She becomes critically ill during the night and a repeat X ray was performed.  The overnight vet called to ask why they had only removed one of the two foreign bodies!  Back to surgery the next day to remove the other two foreign bodies.  She has been teetering on the edge of life all week but decided to eat some scrambled eggs today.  They have decided she is depressed and, besides, I am a physician, so she would do better at home.  So now it is six medications, each on a different dosing schedule, syringe feedings and hourly walks since (for the docs and vets out there) she is starting to mobilize the 4 kg of fluids she acquired during her holiday.  At least she got a complimentary nail clip. 
 
For you savvy dog people out there, the middle foreign body is the Daily Growl, a white plastic squeaky toy that she has not had access to in several years. 
 

 
 

Michael,
 
The carb and manifold look superb and compliment the rest of thar little jewel of an engine. Beautiful work. And a big congratulations on your and Judy's anniversary!
 
All the best,
 
Elia

Ok I have started a new thread in shore leave regarding  hoarding
 
 
 
Pete I am sending you a PM.
 
 
Now back to the boat.
 
Skipjack parts are now tidy
 

 

 
Michael

Patrick, Jay, Lawrence,
 
Thanks for the dory comments. And thanks to all of those who've "liked" my posts. Tonight I spent some time with putty filling in the small open faps between the planks. I'm not sure how either the mold material nor tbe casting resin flows and what width gap won't or will show up, so a little filler I think will help in the process and aid a good flow of the resin from the planks adjacent on the sides and to the stem and trasom. We shall see. Something I'm not certain of, either, is how thin I can make some of the little frame details and get resin flowing into them. With a little time this weekend i'll work on the molds.
 
Lawrence,
 
You are a dory building machine! I find when I'm making multiples of some item I fine tune my process as I progress and usually my first efforts aren't up to the quality or consistency of my later efforts. I think all your dories look very good and any of them will complement your fibe schooner model.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Patrick, Jay, Lawrence,
 
Thanks for the dory comments. And thanks to all of those who've "liked" my posts. Tonight I spent some time with putty filling in the small open faps between the planks. I'm not sure how either the mold material nor tbe casting resin flows and what width gap won't or will show up, so a little filler I think will help in the process and aid a good flow of the resin from the planks adjacent on the sides and to the stem and trasom. We shall see. Something I'm not certain of, either, is how thin I can make some of the little frame details and get resin flowing into them. With a little time this weekend i'll work on the molds.
 
Lawrence,
 
You are a dory building machine! I find when I'm making multiples of some item I fine tune my process as I progress and usually my first efforts aren't up to the quality or consistency of my later efforts. I think all your dories look very good and any of them will complement your fibe schooner model.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Patrick, Jay, Lawrence,
 
Thanks for the dory comments. And thanks to all of those who've "liked" my posts. Tonight I spent some time with putty filling in the small open faps between the planks. I'm not sure how either the mold material nor tbe casting resin flows and what width gap won't or will show up, so a little filler I think will help in the process and aid a good flow of the resin from the planks adjacent on the sides and to the stem and trasom. We shall see. Something I'm not certain of, either, is how thin I can make some of the little frame details and get resin flowing into them. With a little time this weekend i'll work on the molds.
 
Lawrence,
 
You are a dory building machine! I find when I'm making multiples of some item I fine tune my process as I progress and usually my first efforts aren't up to the quality or consistency of my later efforts. I think all your dories look very good and any of them will complement your fibe schooner model.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Patrick, Jay, Lawrence,
 
Thanks for the dory comments. And thanks to all of those who've "liked" my posts. Tonight I spent some time with putty filling in the small open faps between the planks. I'm not sure how either the mold material nor tbe casting resin flows and what width gap won't or will show up, so a little filler I think will help in the process and aid a good flow of the resin from the planks adjacent on the sides and to the stem and trasom. We shall see. Something I'm not certain of, either, is how thin I can make some of the little frame details and get resin flowing into them. With a little time this weekend i'll work on the molds.
 
Lawrence,
 
You are a dory building machine! I find when I'm making multiples of some item I fine tune my process as I progress and usually my first efforts aren't up to the quality or consistency of my later efforts. I think all your dories look very good and any of them will complement your fibe schooner model.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Thanks  all for the likes and inquiry's
I have been looking after some domestic issues related to cleaning up almost 20 years worth of collecting junk around the yard (6 trailer loads) in anticipation of moving to the coast in the near future, The next time Maria sees open water it will be somewhere between the Mainland and Vancouver Island. I have kept her eyes hidden from the early break up of the lake this year, knowing that bigger water beckons.
 
My next shop will be very tidy and tools will all have their own special places, no clutter will be allowed, each project will have proper storage of parts and materials as they progress!
 
I am a reformed Hoarder, My time will be better spent building models and not sorting and organizing and looking for something that I collected 20 or 30 years ago, for instance I really only need about twenty feet of very fine spring wire not 3 miles, All the containers of little pieces of cut wood continue to grow with no signs of them getting used (it is easier to cut new for what I need) I just need to learn to not cut so many extra bits that then get stacked.
 
I will be taking good planks and billets of special hardwood to the new shop, plus a smaller assortment of metal bar and sheet stock, all the tiny off cuts will not be traveling west.
 
It is a serious learning curve, but I am a determined student, I am going to live the next 30 years clutter free which is really exciting.
 
Michael 

Last fall I began tinkering with making a dory for my schooner with the idea of casting them in resin. The reasoning for casting them was that I didn’t think my build precision and tolerances could yield a stack of dories (5-6) in which the nested dories would resemble real stacks of dories which pack together fairly tightly.

I used a plan for a 15 foot (measured along the bottom of the dory) version. This is representative of the dories used during Arethusa’s era, and the length of dory used for halibut, cod, and other larger dory trawling fishing.

The first photo shows the plans I used.
The second photo shows the bulkheads aligned on a small build board. The transom and stem were extended to the build board and glued in place. Later on they were judiciously cut off the build board once the planking was complete.


The third photo shows the strakes used on the sides of the hull. The largest width strakes could have been left straight; I chose to pre-cut the lower edge to aid in alignment with the bottom plank. Take note that the upper strakes are purely straight planks with no in-plane spiling. This was very common.


The fourth photo shows the bottom surface glued and secured in place. The bottom has a slight rocker or camber (fore-aft) to it.


The fifth photo shows the second strake glued in place. The lap strake assembly method presented slight challenges to me. I tried applying the very small bevel to the mating surfaces of the adjoining strakes. When assembling it was difficult to get the strakes to stay in the correct spot as the bevels and the clamps (applying force - to the beveled surfaces) resulted in the upper strake/plank moving.


The sixth photo shows the dory with planking complete and cut off the build board. You can see the extended stem and transom in this photo.


The seventh photo shows the dory upside down.


I’ve done a little clean up on the dory, having trimmed down the stem and transom and will add the rail strips. I received a starter resin casting set for my birthday and my casting attempts will follow shortly.

Cheers,

Elia

Hello Shipmates, Elia-Slog-Lawrence-Edwin-Nigel-Greg-Mike-Salty dog, thank you very much for your likes, comments and also for passing by. As I said above summer has arrived....and the weather is not suitable for ship building..     So I don't have much to show, only some little progress on the 1st boat.. :)
 
Cheers
Dimitris

Last fall I began tinkering with making a dory for my schooner with the idea of casting them in resin. The reasoning for casting them was that I didn’t think my build precision and tolerances could yield a stack of dories (5-6) in which the nested dories would resemble real stacks of dories which pack together fairly tightly.

I used a plan for a 15 foot (measured along the bottom of the dory) version. This is representative of the dories used during Arethusa’s era, and the length of dory used for halibut, cod, and other larger dory trawling fishing.

The first photo shows the plans I used.
The second photo shows the bulkheads aligned on a small build board. The transom and stem were extended to the build board and glued in place. Later on they were judiciously cut off the build board once the planking was complete.


The third photo shows the strakes used on the sides of the hull. The largest width strakes could have been left straight; I chose to pre-cut the lower edge to aid in alignment with the bottom plank. Take note that the upper strakes are purely straight planks with no in-plane spiling. This was very common.


The fourth photo shows the bottom surface glued and secured in place. The bottom has a slight rocker or camber (fore-aft) to it.


The fifth photo shows the second strake glued in place. The lap strake assembly method presented slight challenges to me. I tried applying the very small bevel to the mating surfaces of the adjoining strakes. When assembling it was difficult to get the strakes to stay in the correct spot as the bevels and the clamps (applying force - to the beveled surfaces) resulted in the upper strake/plank moving.


The sixth photo shows the dory with planking complete and cut off the build board. You can see the extended stem and transom in this photo.


The seventh photo shows the dory upside down.


I’ve done a little clean up on the dory, having trimmed down the stem and transom and will add the rail strips. I received a starter resin casting set for my birthday and my casting attempts will follow shortly.

Cheers,

Elia

Shipyard time has been tight and will remain that way for a while but I wanted to post a small update.  The manger is a triangular area at the bow formed by removable wood partitions.  A scupper drains the water that accumulates from hauling in the anchor cables.  It fits into a waterway to prevent the water from seeping under the manger wall onto the upper deck.  
 

 

 

 

 

Last fall I began tinkering with making a dory for my schooner with the idea of casting them in resin. The reasoning for casting them was that I didn’t think my build precision and tolerances could yield a stack of dories (5-6) in which the nested dories would resemble real stacks of dories which pack together fairly tightly.

I used a plan for a 15 foot (measured along the bottom of the dory) version. This is representative of the dories used during Arethusa’s era, and the length of dory used for halibut, cod, and other larger dory trawling fishing.

The first photo shows the plans I used.
The second photo shows the bulkheads aligned on a small build board. The transom and stem were extended to the build board and glued in place. Later on they were judiciously cut off the build board once the planking was complete.


The third photo shows the strakes used on the sides of the hull. The largest width strakes could have been left straight; I chose to pre-cut the lower edge to aid in alignment with the bottom plank. Take note that the upper strakes are purely straight planks with no in-plane spiling. This was very common.


The fourth photo shows the bottom surface glued and secured in place. The bottom has a slight rocker or camber (fore-aft) to it.


The fifth photo shows the second strake glued in place. The lap strake assembly method presented slight challenges to me. I tried applying the very small bevel to the mating surfaces of the adjoining strakes. When assembling it was difficult to get the strakes to stay in the correct spot as the bevels and the clamps (applying force - to the beveled surfaces) resulted in the upper strake/plank moving.


The sixth photo shows the dory with planking complete and cut off the build board. You can see the extended stem and transom in this photo.


The seventh photo shows the dory upside down.


I’ve done a little clean up on the dory, having trimmed down the stem and transom and will add the rail strips. I received a starter resin casting set for my birthday and my casting attempts will follow shortly.

Cheers,

Elia

Last fall I began tinkering with making a dory for my schooner with the idea of casting them in resin. The reasoning for casting them was that I didn’t think my build precision and tolerances could yield a stack of dories (5-6) in which the nested dories would resemble real stacks of dories which pack together fairly tightly.

I used a plan for a 15 foot (measured along the bottom of the dory) version. This is representative of the dories used during Arethusa’s era, and the length of dory used for halibut, cod, and other larger dory trawling fishing.

The first photo shows the plans I used.
The second photo shows the bulkheads aligned on a small build board. The transom and stem were extended to the build board and glued in place. Later on they were judiciously cut off the build board once the planking was complete.


The third photo shows the strakes used on the sides of the hull. The largest width strakes could have been left straight; I chose to pre-cut the lower edge to aid in alignment with the bottom plank. Take note that the upper strakes are purely straight planks with no in-plane spiling. This was very common.


The fourth photo shows the bottom surface glued and secured in place. The bottom has a slight rocker or camber (fore-aft) to it.


The fifth photo shows the second strake glued in place. The lap strake assembly method presented slight challenges to me. I tried applying the very small bevel to the mating surfaces of the adjoining strakes. When assembling it was difficult to get the strakes to stay in the correct spot as the bevels and the clamps (applying force - to the beveled surfaces) resulted in the upper strake/plank moving.


The sixth photo shows the dory with planking complete and cut off the build board. You can see the extended stem and transom in this photo.


The seventh photo shows the dory upside down.


I’ve done a little clean up on the dory, having trimmed down the stem and transom and will add the rail strips. I received a starter resin casting set for my birthday and my casting attempts will follow shortly.

Cheers,

Elia

Last fall I began tinkering with making a dory for my schooner with the idea of casting them in resin. The reasoning for casting them was that I didn’t think my build precision and tolerances could yield a stack of dories (5-6) in which the nested dories would resemble real stacks of dories which pack together fairly tightly.

I used a plan for a 15 foot (measured along the bottom of the dory) version. This is representative of the dories used during Arethusa’s era, and the length of dory used for halibut, cod, and other larger dory trawling fishing.

The first photo shows the plans I used.
The second photo shows the bulkheads aligned on a small build board. The transom and stem were extended to the build board and glued in place. Later on they were judiciously cut off the build board once the planking was complete.


The third photo shows the strakes used on the sides of the hull. The largest width strakes could have been left straight; I chose to pre-cut the lower edge to aid in alignment with the bottom plank. Take note that the upper strakes are purely straight planks with no in-plane spiling. This was very common.


The fourth photo shows the bottom surface glued and secured in place. The bottom has a slight rocker or camber (fore-aft) to it.


The fifth photo shows the second strake glued in place. The lap strake assembly method presented slight challenges to me. I tried applying the very small bevel to the mating surfaces of the adjoining strakes. When assembling it was difficult to get the strakes to stay in the correct spot as the bevels and the clamps (applying force - to the beveled surfaces) resulted in the upper strake/plank moving.


The sixth photo shows the dory with planking complete and cut off the build board. You can see the extended stem and transom in this photo.


The seventh photo shows the dory upside down.


I’ve done a little clean up on the dory, having trimmed down the stem and transom and will add the rail strips. I received a starter resin casting set for my birthday and my casting attempts will follow shortly.

Cheers,

Elia

I'm with Patrick--am very keen to see how the resin castings workout; never would have thought of that and think it's a great idea, Elia!
 
Cheers,
Jay

Hi Elia
 
Really nice job on the dory! I would never have thought of doing resin castings, so I'm keen to see how yours turn out.
 
All the best!
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Hi Elia
 
Happy Birthday!!! 21 years old I presume?
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Hi Elia,
Happy Birthday! Good luck always and everywhere for you!
 
Best REgards!
Igor.
 
P.S. I can't send PM to you...

Hello Elia, Have a great day... Happy Birthday!!! :) I cannot send you a pm either..
 
All the best
Dimitris