Elia

Bugra,
upon your request, here a short intercourse and self explaining use of the plate marking tool.
By the way, I use this method on all model hulls that are of rivited structure, only the tooth modul sizes differ acc. to the appr. scale Chosen. The holders for the toothwheels are made from old paintbrushes that would go to the bin otherwise.
 
Cheers
 
Nils
 
 

different wheel (toothsizes, and toothnumbers, also requires a semi soft rubber plate underneath and of course the precut plate
 

(turn around the plate, so the protection foil is up....
 

use a metal ruler, or like here a masons tool, leave plate edge free
 

the roller tool, use Dremel with circle sawblade to cut in the two circular grooves for obtaining 3 toothrows instead of one
 

press tight down the roller tool and move swiftly Forward in one move. Same time press down the ruler
 

looking at the marked edge from the rear side
 

looking at the result of the rivit resembling, (here 3-row riviting)
 

remove the protection foil, Keep the gluefilm side free from dust and debris
 
 
Happy exercising and good success
 
Nils

Build log part 2
 
 

planking completed, rudder and sternpost reinforcement mounted, minimized Polyesterfiller where necassary, and poopquarter knee-whale attached
 
 

impressions of rudder making components
 

the five blade prop is only an interim solution, a four blade historic prop with blades bolted-on the central hub is to follow later
 

here first time experience Begins with metal plating for hull
The hull wooden surface is sanded smooth and fixed with quick dying transperant liquid filler, which drys off quickly leaving a real smooth and shiny surface on which the self-adhesive Aluminium foil sticks like hell. No Problem with roll-embossing the foil plates from the rear plate side, because the rivit immitations are roolled-in before the protection foil on the plate rearside is removed, giving free the glue film.
 

Workstation for making the plates
 

leave a gap between first and second plating line, the third plating line is set by overlapping the edges of first and second line
Note : vertical rivit Joints have 4 rows of rivits, horizontal Joints have 2 rivit rows
 

plating nearly done, the whole hull is still mounted to the shipyard baseplate
Mounted into the keel are two reinforced M5 female threads for the later to be mounted stand-bolts
 

the upper hull portions have not been plated yet
 

soldered, full functional mounted rudder before plating, shaft going through to poop deck
 

here the upside down 135 cm Long hull is nearly ready for seperating from the baseplate, it is very stiff, riged and of lightweight

After the holidays it starts again with the square frames
 

 

 

 

Finally, I got around to finalize the structures and most of the details on the fore deck. There are still some touching up to do, final painting of the barrels for instance, but I feel I have done enough to shoot some pictures.
 
Thanks for looking in, please enjoy.
/Alfons
 

Well, I've either finished the dories or gotten tired of them.  I'm finished with all the painting I plan on doing and started making the oars.  Apparently, the oars were stored in the top boat of the nested stack- at two sets per boat, and four boats per stack, that's 2X2X4=16 oars per stack or 32 oars I've got to carve!
 
I've already decided that since this was the early part of the 20th century, it is unrealistic to assume that the oars (or sweeps, if you prefer) were identical.  That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
 
I need some ideas on painting the oars.  Any ideas?  I'm thinking the "handles" black and the "blades natural" or perhaps white.  I'd appreciate input.
 
My first oar.  I'm a proud papa.

 
My first set setting by a stack of boats.

 
Woody the sailor looking things over.  The handles are thick for his hands.  If I get brave, I'll try and sand them down a bit further.

 
 
Oh, one more small point.  I followed the practicum on the benches in the dory, but the placement is incorrect.  They should have cutouts that capture the bracing on the sides to keep them from moving.  They were removable after all and it would have been foolish to mount them any other way.  Not a big thing, but one of those things I wish I had noticed earlier.

At this point I need to be sure the chart house matches the camber to the deck.  I have applied a piece of 150 grit sandpaper to the deck where the chart house will be glued.  I'll work the chart house back and forth until it matches the deck camber.
 

 

 

 

 
Cheers,
 
Tim

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 40 – Aft Half Frames 1
 
As in the forward section, the aft half frames lie between the cant frames and the aftermost of the full square frames.  They bolt to the vertical side of the deadwood and are square to the line of the keel.  When installed they will be hard to distinguish from the full frames that rest on the keel.  However when the horizontal bolts are installed the difference will be more obvious.
 
I installed the first of these following the method used on the forward frames.  As shown in the first picture these, although separate, were fabricated as a single assembly held together with temporary cross-spalls.  This assembly would then be slipped over the deadwood at the correct height.  The breadth at the top is held by the spalls and alignment set using the center string line.
 

 
The next picture shows the erection method.
 

 
The sides are contained by the two clamped squares located at the line on the base drawing.  The center of the spall is marked and aligned with the string.  The height on both sides is set using the vertical caliper based on heights taken from the drawing.  This worked well except that gluing and accurately clamping at the deadwood was a bit involved.  I soon adopted the simpler method shown in the next picture.
 

 
In this method the two frame halves are installed separately.  The ribbands at the planksheer were extended back into the cant frames.  These ribbands are then used to set the height and breadth of the frames at the top, where they are pinned tightly through the ribband as was done for the full frames.  This method roughly mimics actual shipyard practice.
 

 
This turned out to be a very much simpler method with equal accuracy.  In the next picture a half frame has been lightly clamped at the bottom and the frame is held so the top of the aft top member is at the top of the ribband. The ribband has been marked with the joint line of the frame for fore and aft alignment.  A pin hole is being drilled through in the picture.
 

 
Once pinned at the top it is an easy matter to rotate the frame to apply glue to the face, then position and clamp it in place by one of the methods shown above.  This process is almost too simple.  However, it does depend on an accurate ribband line.
 
To help assure this, a spreader was inserted and pinned at frame 33, about midway in the remaining open space.  Sized from the pattern for 33, this helps maintain the correct curve of the ribband breadth.  This spreader and two measured strips are shown in the next picture.
 

 
The strips are loose and were merely used to check the breadth at the last full frame and the last installed half frame.
 
The last picture shows the hull at present.  The remaining gap in the framing should soon be filled.
 

 
Apart from the clutter of my workshop in the background, this picture gives an idea of the length of this hull – and of the L/B ratio.  This is one long slim ship -  roughly 240 feet long by about 43 feet broad – about 6/1.  Naiad:  3.7/1.
 
 
 Ed

A chart room.... lets's see. look now, Piet's getting carried away already
 
First the chimney, I was looking through my books because these came in al sorts and shapes
 

 
But fortunately TFFM hinted me to also check my NMM plans and guess what the chimney was drawn in so getting the shape right was easy peasy. (reminder look more on the NMM plans there is more on it than I had thought)
 
The pyramid shape was diver soldered from some scrap pieces, the funnel turned and tapered on the lathe. 
 

 
The floor was added in front of the stove. And here it is ready to be lit this was really a fun challenge to do, thank you Druxey for inspiring me to give it a try.
 

 

 
Remco

Been working a bit on Dorries.  They are fun to make, but I have advised my wife if I don't come to bed to check and see if I have superglued myself to the little work bench.
 
First, I made the braces and such, then I bent some narrow wood for the rails.

 
After everything was assembled, I painted the boat a beige.  I'm considering going back and painting the rail a contrasting color.  Don't know.  In any event, in this photo you can see what I plan on doing with the nested boats.  The supports really just make the rail easier to attach.

 
This shows what the boats look like nested.  I'm thinking they are Okay- I'm not sure how much space there should be.  I am assuming the benches came out and laid on the floor to allow closer nesting.

 
As always, suggestions and comments welcome.  And remember, I"m taking the excellent advice of the club member in Knoxville.  He advised I "drink more" when working on the boat!

Greetings,
 
My next step was to glue the turret race to the aluminum tube, I used a combination of CA and yellow all purpose glue thinned with water.  
 

 

 
The next step in the instruction booklet states: "Snip eight ammunition belts from the photo-etched sheet.  Paint the tips of the bullets copper, the raised portions black, and leave the cartridge case natural brass, and set them aside for later installation. 
 

 

 

 
Cheers,
Tim       

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 39 – Aft Cant Frames
 
Clipper Ship Note:  The longitudinal hull lines on the American clippers introduced some new terms and redefined some old ones.  Furthermore, the names of some these lines differed between builders.  Young America’s table of offsets was generally similar to most of the breed.  It included the following longitudinal lines.
 
The wale delineated the top of the band of thick planking also called the wale.  As in earlier ships, the curve of this line defined the sweeping fore and aft sheer of the ship.  In clippers, unlike RN 18C ships, the line was higher forward and lower at the stern.  In Young America’s case the band of heavy wale planking extended downward about ten feet almost to the turn of the bilge.  The wale line was high - usually two feet or so below the line above – the planksheer.
 
The planksheer defined the underside of the rail that capped and sealed off the main inboard and outboard planking.  It was essentially parallel and at the level of the top of the main weatherdeck waterway.  The planksheer rail was penetrated by toptimbers of the frames that ran up to a higher level at the tops of the sides.
 
The main rail line defined the underside of the main rail.  It was about three feet above the planksheer and about 18 inches below the rail that capped the tops of the toptimbers.
 
This last line was called, in the case of Young America, the fancy rail.  In other ships it was known as the monkey rail.  It defined the top of the side from stem to stern.  Young America’s fancy rail is at the level of the poop deck aft and slightly higher than the topgallant forecastle deck at the bow. 
 
Another open rail was constructed above the fancy rail along the poop deck to help keep the crew out of the drink.  On Young America this was a wood rail on turned brass stanchions.
 
All of these rail lines were, for the most part, parallel curves.  Below is a body plan with the lines marked.
 

 
So, back to the model.
 
The first picture shows cant frames 48 forward to 45 installed.   The square is positioned for checking the cant of frame 45 on the port side – from the base drawing.
 

 
The next picture shows a different view of the assembly at the same stage. 
 

 
The “feet” of the cant frames were left a bit on the heavy side and will be sanded back fair to the bearding line later – probably before bolting.  Otherwise the frames are pretty well beveled to their final shapes.  Two more pairs to go.
 
In the next picture the template has been placed over the tops of the frames at this stage to check position.
 

 
The next picture is a view from under the stern at the same stage.
 

 
The space between the two central stern timbers will later be fitted with a chock shaped to the helm port.  In the next picture, frame 44 on the port side is being held in place during fitting.
 

 
In the next picture this frame has been installed and frame 43 on the starboard side is being glued in place.
 

 
The last picture shows all of the aft cant frames installed before the clamps on the last were removed.
 

 
The 12 aft half-frames - 42 to 31 - will now be made and installed to complete the frame installation.
 
 Ed

Here is another small update. I had some time to solder up the chainplates tonight. There are ten total. Each has an eye soldered in its upper end and is drilled for two wires that will fasten it to the hull.
 
Here is a photo of a dry fit. Never mind the wires, they will eventually be glued in and cut off. Also, the chainplate will be cut shorter, just below the bottom wire. That will happen only just before final installation. The rail is notched for the chainplate to lay flat against the hull and there will be a wooden cap fixed along the outer edge of the rail to help secure the chainplates upper part.
 
Questions and comments welcomed.
 
Russ
 
 
 
 

Just realized I hadn't uploaded the photo of my cabin.  I think the sky light came out pretty good.  I saw some photos of the real ship after it was done and would do it a bit differently if I did it over. 
 
The small dorries are "interesting" to make.  I have kept faith with the idea that only two of them have to turn out really well.  The rest I can stack under the good ones.  Obviously, I have not added rails, or interior framing to any of them yet.
 

 

Jib hanks
My hanks are approximately 6” high by 4” wide or half the size shown on the plans, which appear too large to me. Specifically, they are .094” (2.4 mm) high by .068” (1.7 mm) wide. I used 30 gage copper wire (.010”, .25 mm) and formed the hook ends around two #77 (.018”, .46 mm) drills spaced .130” (3.3 mm) apart. After trimming the hooks I bent the hank around the smallest end of round nose pliers (.048”, 1.22 mm). I shaped these as shackles rather than planar as shown on the plans. Perhaps proving I am no sailor, but right wrong or indifferent, they look better.
 
Stitching hanks to jibs.
Lacking any guidance, I use a running stitch to sew the hanks to the jib. This works well for me and will work if the hanks are planar. I cut a thread twice the length of the hem and harden the free end with thin CA. This makes it easy to thread through the hank hooks and needle. I have to remove the needle twice for each hank since the hooks are smaller than my needles.
 
Start by locking the stitch and running the needle inside the sail hem to the point of the first (or next) hank. In this photo you can see the needle exiting the hem at the left divider point.
 
 
Remove the needle and thread the hank from the inside out to make the hank lie properly at the stitch.

 
Rethread the needle and stitch through the hem from immediately below the hank, (I learned later that stitching below the hank helps keep it normal to the hem) so the hank will lie upright.

 
Thread the other hook, again from the inside out.

 
Pull the thread tight and check the position of the hank. Now is the time to make corrections. Thread the needle and start a stitch (again below the hank)to proceed to the next hank.
 
 
Completed jib hanks.

 
Dave B

Dave,
 
That looks really really really nice. I think the warm medium/dark natural case compliments the painted model quite well. I think all of us fishing schooner modelers hope for such results. A hearty congratulations on her.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 38 – Stern Timbering 2
 
After setting the eight stern timbers, chocks were installed between them in scores at the “knuckle” where the timbers change direction upwards.
 

 
This knuckle gradually smoothes out into a curve in the cant frames section.  The assembly has not been sanded at this stage.  Some sanding has been done in the next picture, which shows all of chocks installed.
 

 
With this work complete, the cant framing was continued forward.  The next picture shows the method used for final beveling the frames before setting.
 

 
The first step in this process was to rough shape the frames on the disk and spindle sander.  Fine cut rasps and a #0 cut half round file were used to trim the frames right back to the lines on each face of the patterns on each side.  All this work could be done by hand, but the power tools save time.
 
In the next picture frame 47 has been installed on the starboard side and its port counterpart is being fitted on the port side using a template.
 

 
These templates were very easy to make by creating a view of the three profiles on the CAD worksheet for the cant frame.  They were then printed on heavy presentation paper and cut out with a knife.  This eliminated pasting to heavier stock and cutting on the scroll saw.  That was the method I had used previously.
 
The next picture shows the gluing up of the above frame.
 

 
The stern template and two clamps hold the frame in position.  In the next picture the next frame, #46 is clamped and glued on the starboard side. 
 

 
The next picture shows a closeup of the foot of the frame and the clamping.
 

 
The wet areas on the wood are from washing off the excess glue. 
 
In the next picture a knuckle chock has been installed between frames 48 and 47 on the starboard side and its counterpart is being glued in on the port side.
 

 
And so it goes.
 
 Ed

Len,
 
The overall views of the hull are truly impressive.  The yards and component blocks and strops look super and will compliment the hull very well.  Super work (as usual!) Len.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Today I installed the deck slats to both AA gun decks.  I have to get used to seeing them on but I think it makes the model.
I stained the slats yesterday with a water soluble stain that's meant for leather.  It was not as easy as I hoped for.  The glue caused the stain to weep out and slightly colored the grey deck paint.  It's also not bonding as well as I thought it should.  It tested okay on a piece of scrap, so go figure.  To prevent the stain from weeping out I had to get some thicker Titebond, that helped a lot.  I would have liked to use CA but I needed to have the time to be able to move it a little, thus the PVA.
 
I also started with installing the railings on the gun decks.  All the stanchions are installed but still need to be trimmed.  They are made from 1 mm brass tubing, they are small enough and nice and stiff.  Then the snorkel exhaust pipe shroud need to me made and installed as well.  The aft hatch opens against it.
 
I also started with the AA gun mods, I think it'll work out okay.  I also cut parts for the lower con door hinges, that'll be a real challenge.
 

You can also see that removed some wood from the gun pedestal sides and front.  Next will be removing some wood on the top so I can install the square looking thingies there and the control wheels and the other things on top.  It all has to fit inside the buns.
 

 
Well, that's it for now
 
Cheers,

Build update:
 
Made turntable (bracket $4.50 from HomeDepot).  Solved my rigging problem for turning model as I rig.  Bracket is attached to plywood board, and top is attached to a 2x4 where ship base is attached.  The bracket corners have holes which after drilling some holes in the plywood allows me to use a wood pin for a stop.  
 
Purchased Chucks blocks and rigging for the larger lines.  Plans calls out 3mm blocks for buntlines and such.  I wasn't satisfied with the size (pix attached showing these on yard ), so I reordered larger 4mm blocks to replace these.  I'm using the "Masting and Rigging spreadsheet" found in the articles section on this site which I believe was setup using "Lee's" book.  This also confirmed these blocks should be larger by the size of rigging line to be used.  I also ordered triple blocks for the jeer falls where the plan shows to use double blocks.  I wish I would have waited before ordering blocks until I got to this phase of the build.  Building without the kit I had this luxury, but purchased all the blocks I thought I needed with all the other material before the start.  Wish Chucks were available then.
 
Started serving lines.  Purchased Alexey's. serving machine. Serving has been quite a learning process.  Each type of situation has been a new source of frustration, but I think I'm getting use to what works and what doesn't. Making the eyes and determining the length of the particular piece are the frustrating areas. Can't tell you how many attempts it took to come up with a satisfactory result for a eye.  Although I'm still new to this and I'm sure additional frustrations will occur.  I'm using Gutermann dark brown  2960 for the serving which matches up good with Chucks brown line.  For seizings I'm using coats 80wt line and staining with General Finishers Expresso Acrylic.  I used Minwax Jacobean on my other models, but switched for an easier cleanup product.  I would have liked to use Uni-thread fly line, but their dark brown I purchased didn't match well with Chuck's line.  Staining this line didn't work, that's why I went with Cotona Madeira which is cotton.  It is less strong, so care must be taken when tightening seizings.
 
Also in picture 5 shows yard sling which I think the thimble I choose is too small 3mm.  Didn't have larger, so when I was going to order a larger size from Model Expo saw a not saying "you can make a larger thimble from a deadeye by routing out the center".  I had 3.5 mm deadeye which I made thimbles from.  The new pieces aren't shown.
 
In the attached pictures all examples are served with the exception with the lifts which also use non-Chuck blocks (7mm Amati sister blocks). 
 
Picture 1 at top 
Picture 2 closeup of turntable and stop pin
Picture 3 closeup showing smaller 3mm blocks (look too small to me)
Picture 4 closeup of served jeer blocks
Picture 5 shows main/fore pendents, two served blocks need to redone, lift blocks for mast cap, sling yard.
Picture 6 redone block under top not completed (original made with beige line)
 
 
Thats all for now.
 
Happy modeling,
Len

First off I need to say thank you to all those who look in and click on the like button.  It’s so nice to log on to MSW and see that red signal that says someone likes what you said or did. Again thank you.
 
Now to get on with the boat.  The planking is almost done.  A little more clean-up in the stern and mount the transom and keel.  Also the planksheer so I can mount the stanchions and the bulwarks and then paint.  Wow, I shouldn’t list things like that it makes it sound like a lot of work.  Anyway here’s the pictures.
 
Bob
 

 

 

 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 37 – Stern Timbering 1
 
I have been looking forward to the stern timbering for some time – in fact since first deciding on the subject ship.  At first glance it looks a bit daunting, but the plan view template and accurately lofted patterns turned the assembly into a pretty easy task.  Most of the work was in the lofting, so I included a picture of the pattern sheet for the eight timbers.
 

 
The pattern lofting was a bit complex.  The timbers are angled off of the last cant frame, which is itself at an angle.  Some mental gymnastics were needed to find enough points on the drawings to plot the four curves for each timber.  I did one for a trial and its fit encouraged me to go on and add the scores for the horizontal chocks to the patterns.  Those chocks will be added in Part 38.
 
In the next picture a new version of one of the central timbers shown earlier is set temporarily in place and the bevel against the aft cant frame is being marked.
 

 
The pattern is still on at this stage.  In the next picture, after installing the one shown above, its opposite counterpart is being glued on.  These were made before I decided to loft the scores on the patterns so these will be cut later, in place. The two timbers will later be bolted through the sternpost.
 

 
In the above picture, the vertical scores for the stern timbers can be seen on the cant frames.  The next picture was taken at this stage but from above.
 

 
In the next picture, the first of the angled timbers has been fit into place.  Note the horizontal scores for the filling chocks at the knuckle.
 

 
In the next picture its opposite counterpart is being fit.
 

 
The joint face angles for all these were measured from the plan drawing, printed on the pattern sheet and faced off on the disk sander with the table set at an angle.  Only slight trimming of the sides of the scores was needed and all fit very well as can be seen in the last picture.
 

 
Following this work, the template was removed to allow a final check of the heights of each timber at the top – the “fancy rail” height – before going on to the filling chocks between the timbers.
 
Ed

Thanks for the comments Christian, Remco, John. Grant, Toni, Mark, Joe and Ben. Also all those who "Liked" the post. Much appreciated .
 
Carving the Finishing and Glazing Lights
 
Mark, as per your request - the carving on the Lower Finishing :
 

 

 
I won't be doing any of the "fancy" carving for quite a while yet if I do any of it at all, I'm still undecided - I don't have the tools, and my skills don't extend to the "artistic" type carving yet. Perhaps I can persuade Janos to make a few for me (hint, hint Janos ).
 
I've also "glazed" the Lights with Acrylic (Perspex) and made and fitted the frames and munions. The curved frame in the central light was done by soaking and bending the strip :
 

 
Almost finished with this very enjoyable project. Just four Pilasters to make.
 
  Danny

But wait John .... there's more .
 
Lower Finishing
 
The Lower Finishing is done in three sections - upper and lower sections divided by the Lower Finishing Rail.
 
I first made the upper piece, which is sanded inward on it's lower edge by about 25 degrees. I then cut the molding in.Then I made the rail and glued it to the bottom of the upper piece :
 

 
The lower piece was a bit harder to make, as I incorporated the Drop (the fancy round bit at the bottom). I carved a representation of three "leaves" into the drop :
 

 
The last bit was easy - glue the two assemblies to the bottom of the Quarter Badge :
 

 

 
Some carving still needs to be done to both upper and lower finishing pieces. This should be fairly easy with all parts fitted to the hull (I hope   ).
 
  Danny

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 36 – Aftermost Cant Frames (#48)
 
The last picture in the previous posting showed the two aftermost cant frames being assembled.  The same pin indexing was used as discussed in previous posts.  After assembly the frames were beveled.  The first picture shows the deadwood mating surface on one of the pairs being beveled using the disk sander with the table set at the correct angle.  These angles are printed on each frame pattern from generated measurements on the CAD drawing.  They are very accurate and the disk sander reproduces them fairly effortlessly.
 

 
The next picture shows the joint bevel.
 

 
This picture was taken before the outer bevels or the shape at the bearding line were shaped.  The picture shows vertical lines on the pattern aft face that mark the scores for seating the three angled stern timbers that bolt to that side of this frame.
 
In the next picture the lines scores being cut with a razor saw.
 

 
There is also a horizontal score on the forward face of this frame at the “knuckle” of the of the aft hull shape that occurs roughly at the line of the wale.  Horizontal chocks will be inserted in these scores between frames to support the ends of the planking below the wale at the stern.  Similar chocks will be placed between the vertical timbers that shape the circular stern.  This will be clearer later when those timbers get installed.
 
The next picture shows the port frame in its initial fitting into the aft score on the deadwood – held by pins at future bolt locations. 
 

 
In the last part I showed a picture taken earlier with the two central stern timbers installed.  After about an hour of trying to fit the cant frame neatly against one of those and into the score I decided to install the cant frames first.  So the central stern timbers have been removed in these pictures.
 
The three vertical scores on the aft face can be seen in this picture.  The temporary ribband seen in this picture and its starboard counterpart were becoming increasing obstructive to all this work and were soon cut back and removed.
 
The next picture shows the installed frame pair.
 

 
The horizontal score on the forward face can be seen in this picture.
 
The next picture shows the starboard frame clamped for gluing.  The two central stern timbers are being held up in position in this picture.
 

 
To assist in fitting and installing the eight stern timbers that form the curve of the circular stern, a template was made to help with this.  It is shown in the next picture.
 

 
The plywood template is clamped tightly to the two “clamped squares”.  The height at the center of the stern and on each side at about frame 38 was set using the caliper shown in the picture.  The line slopes down slightly going forward.  The template was also horizontally aligned up from the base drawing using the square shown on the port side.  The template is fit over the two installed cant frames. One central timber is loosely fit into its notch in the template.
 
The next task is to loft, make and install the eight timbers that form the circular stern.
 
 
Ed

John and Elia, thank you for your kind comments.  Thanks for all the Likes as well.  A little more has been accomplished this weekend.  I have applied the finish to the pantry.  Beam set 14 has been installed and beam set 15 is in progess.  The middle carlings are larger to support the capstain partner.  Unlike the carlings for the mast partners, this piece is installed like a regular carling (ie from on top) rather than under the beam.