Elia

This past winter and spring I pondered how to fabricate a few of the remaining deck furniture  details for Arethusa.  The steering wheel, the cat heads, and potentially remaking the deck pumps, due to the fact that over time, as I stared at my original sculpey ones, I found them a little less than attractive.  We’ll see if I remake the pumps or not.
 
The Gloucester schooners of the late 1800s and early 1900s employed cast steering wheels over the built-up wooden wheels we see on many earlier period ships.  One of the principal manufacturers of the cast wheels was A.P. Stoddard Company of Gloucester, MA.  The wheels contained a cast rim, a cast hub, and 8 spoke/handles.  The overall dimensions of the wheels ranged from about 30 inches in diameter (of the rim) to 36 inches diameter.  
 
The design I am using was for Elsie, a similar vintage and approximately similar sized schooner to Arethusa.  The Elsie plans from Model Shipways contain views of the wheel, but enlarged to 1/24 scale, twice the size of my model.  This wheel was also printed in a series of articles Erik A.R. Ronnberg wrote from the Nautical Research Guild's Journal in the 1990s. (I think).  So I used CAD at work to create a 1/48 scale set of ‘wheel’ drawings.  Since the wheel details are quite small at 1/48 scale, I only focused on the major geometric details.  The Elsie wheel is 48 inches (true) from brass cap of one handle to the opposite side handle brass cap.  The rim is 36 inches OD, and 30 inches ID.
 
In this post I’ll show you my approach to making the ships wheel.  What follows is my fourth or fifth attempt at the wheel.  I first tried making one from sheet styrene.  No luck.  Then I tried using boxwood and styrene.  Again failure.  I followed that up with an all boxwood wheel’s rim.  Nope, no good.  At the top of my wish list of of modeling power tools is a lathe… but with largish scale home projects ongoing I can’t justify such a purchase right now.
 
What I found I was struggling with was the fact that the flanges and the web of the rim as very thin at 1/48 scale.  Couple that with a detail the cast rims present - ‘cylindrical’ swells around each spoke at the rim - and, well, I was stumped.  Then, one night something struck me - why not make the rim’s web from two thin sheets of brass.  Once I had the ‘rings’ of the web formed it seemed it shouldn’t be too difficult to crimp them around spokes, or at least spoke mandrels. 
In my ‘brass’ box I had a nice amount of 1/64” thick by 1/16” wide K&S brass strips.  I also had brass sheets stock but attempts to cut out the rings to an acceptable shape proved difficult for me.  I annealed the 1/64 x 1/16 strips and found a suitable mandrel with which to form the web rings.  
 

 
The mandrel was part of a VW Passat B5 tie rod extraction tool (from a past project/era).  I first crudely formed the strips into flat rings, re-annealing throughout the forming, to allow the rings to take a smooth shape.  I then used the mandrel to allow final forming along the underside of the bolt head (following picture).  
 

 
The ring’s ends were then soldered together to form what are essentially thin brass washers.  For this step I used silver solder paste and my butane torch.
 
The next picture shows the crimping of the two ring webs around 0.020 brass rod, which at scale is slightly larger than correct, but available and easy to work with.  These are demonstration rings, as my originals had passed this point of the process before I paused long enough to consider taking pictures.  I used the CAD print to mark where the spokes would be placed.
 

 
Once all of the crimping around the spoke locations was complete I soldered the two web sides together.  For this solder step I used Stay Brite silver solder, which has a melting temp in the somewhere around ~500F.  I soldered in every-other ‘bay’ between spoke locations.  I did that so that when I soldered the flanges onto the rim I could alternate bay locations, providing some ‘distance’ between soldered joints in an attempt to minimize secondary or tertiary soldering from undoing prior soldered sections.
 
I used my trusty mandrel to form the inner flange of the rim, fitted it to the inside of the web ring, trimmed it, and soldered it on place, using the designated ‘clear’ bays for soldering.
 


 
I then used a wooden dowel as a back stop and drilled though the inner flange with my dremel.
 

 
Nearing the completion of the rim I used another mandrel to form the outer flange.  I clamped it in place, marked the spoke locations, and drilled the holes using the prior mentioned drill setup.
 
Parts were filed, flux was applied.  I used some of those 0.020 inch brass rods to maintain alignment of the holes to the rim web.  I used clamps to keep everything in place.  I snipped tiny pieces of TIX solder (melt temp around 270F), and located them.  Heat was then applied.  It looked great.  Really sweet.  I took off the clamps and went to remove the brass rods.  Oh CRUD!  [actually, insert colorful sailor language here].  The flux and solder had run…and the brass rods were soldered in.  I tried heat with the soldering iron, but no luck.  I was concerned about applying too much heat and having other portions of the assembly come apart.  So I set about marking and drilling out the brass rod material.  It worked OK, although the holes weren’t quite as well located as the originals.
 
On the second portion of the outer flange I chose to omit the brass rod ‘alignment’ aids and it all worked out well.
 

 
So here is the rim essentially completed.  The swells in the rim web are visible, and the rim flanges are reasonably to scale.   It is a little larger in OD than the plans.  Not perfect, but I’m happy with it.  Now on to the tiny hub.

 
Cheers,
 
Elia

This past winter and spring I pondered how to fabricate a few of the remaining deck furniture  details for Arethusa.  The steering wheel, the cat heads, and potentially remaking the deck pumps, due to the fact that over time, as I stared at my original sculpey ones, I found them a little less than attractive.  We’ll see if I remake the pumps or not.
 
The Gloucester schooners of the late 1800s and early 1900s employed cast steering wheels over the built-up wooden wheels we see on many earlier period ships.  One of the principal manufacturers of the cast wheels was A.P. Stoddard Company of Gloucester, MA.  The wheels contained a cast rim, a cast hub, and 8 spoke/handles.  The overall dimensions of the wheels ranged from about 30 inches in diameter (of the rim) to 36 inches diameter.  
 
The design I am using was for Elsie, a similar vintage and approximately similar sized schooner to Arethusa.  The Elsie plans from Model Shipways contain views of the wheel, but enlarged to 1/24 scale, twice the size of my model.  This wheel was also printed in a series of articles Erik A.R. Ronnberg wrote from the Nautical Research Guild's Journal in the 1990s. (I think).  So I used CAD at work to create a 1/48 scale set of ‘wheel’ drawings.  Since the wheel details are quite small at 1/48 scale, I only focused on the major geometric details.  The Elsie wheel is 48 inches (true) from brass cap of one handle to the opposite side handle brass cap.  The rim is 36 inches OD, and 30 inches ID.
 
In this post I’ll show you my approach to making the ships wheel.  What follows is my fourth or fifth attempt at the wheel.  I first tried making one from sheet styrene.  No luck.  Then I tried using boxwood and styrene.  Again failure.  I followed that up with an all boxwood wheel’s rim.  Nope, no good.  At the top of my wish list of of modeling power tools is a lathe… but with largish scale home projects ongoing I can’t justify such a purchase right now.
 
What I found I was struggling with was the fact that the flanges and the web of the rim as very thin at 1/48 scale.  Couple that with a detail the cast rims present - ‘cylindrical’ swells around each spoke at the rim - and, well, I was stumped.  Then, one night something struck me - why not make the rim’s web from two thin sheets of brass.  Once I had the ‘rings’ of the web formed it seemed it shouldn’t be too difficult to crimp them around spokes, or at least spoke mandrels. 
In my ‘brass’ box I had a nice amount of 1/64” thick by 1/16” wide K&S brass strips.  I also had brass sheets stock but attempts to cut out the rings to an acceptable shape proved difficult for me.  I annealed the 1/64 x 1/16 strips and found a suitable mandrel with which to form the web rings.  
 

 
The mandrel was part of a VW Passat B5 tie rod extraction tool (from a past project/era).  I first crudely formed the strips into flat rings, re-annealing throughout the forming, to allow the rings to take a smooth shape.  I then used the mandrel to allow final forming along the underside of the bolt head (following picture).  
 

 
The ring’s ends were then soldered together to form what are essentially thin brass washers.  For this step I used silver solder paste and my butane torch.
 
The next picture shows the crimping of the two ring webs around 0.020 brass rod, which at scale is slightly larger than correct, but available and easy to work with.  These are demonstration rings, as my originals had passed this point of the process before I paused long enough to consider taking pictures.  I used the CAD print to mark where the spokes would be placed.
 

 
Once all of the crimping around the spoke locations was complete I soldered the two web sides together.  For this solder step I used Stay Brite silver solder, which has a melting temp in the somewhere around ~500F.  I soldered in every-other ‘bay’ between spoke locations.  I did that so that when I soldered the flanges onto the rim I could alternate bay locations, providing some ‘distance’ between soldered joints in an attempt to minimize secondary or tertiary soldering from undoing prior soldered sections.
 
I used my trusty mandrel to form the inner flange of the rim, fitted it to the inside of the web ring, trimmed it, and soldered it on place, using the designated ‘clear’ bays for soldering.
 


 
I then used a wooden dowel as a back stop and drilled though the inner flange with my dremel.
 

 
Nearing the completion of the rim I used another mandrel to form the outer flange.  I clamped it in place, marked the spoke locations, and drilled the holes using the prior mentioned drill setup.
 
Parts were filed, flux was applied.  I used some of those 0.020 inch brass rods to maintain alignment of the holes to the rim web.  I used clamps to keep everything in place.  I snipped tiny pieces of TIX solder (melt temp around 270F), and located them.  Heat was then applied.  It looked great.  Really sweet.  I took off the clamps and went to remove the brass rods.  Oh CRUD!  [actually, insert colorful sailor language here].  The flux and solder had run…and the brass rods were soldered in.  I tried heat with the soldering iron, but no luck.  I was concerned about applying too much heat and having other portions of the assembly come apart.  So I set about marking and drilling out the brass rod material.  It worked OK, although the holes weren’t quite as well located as the originals.
 
On the second portion of the outer flange I chose to omit the brass rod ‘alignment’ aids and it all worked out well.
 

 
So here is the rim essentially completed.  The swells in the rim web are visible, and the rim flanges are reasonably to scale.   It is a little larger in OD than the plans.  Not perfect, but I’m happy with it.  Now on to the tiny hub.

 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Thank you for your interest in "Newsboy" 1854,
 
Next step is after deck outfit.  Key points include:
 
>>> Binacle redesigned based on contemporary ship model plans (original was undersized for 3/16" scale)
>>> Binacle was sheathed with walnut veneer over a solid block 
>>> Ships bell HO scale fitting from Cale Scale
>>> Main sheet block fitted to waterway (to avoid access issues)
>>> Steering enclosure built up from laminated panels, install in coaming, and glued in place
>>> Grating panels fitted for steering station
>>> Mooring bitts built up from laminated stripwood and doweled in place
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Thanks for your interest in "Newsboy" 1854
 
With exterior hull outfit complete, next step is the foredeck outfit.  Key points include:
 
>>> Anchor windlass redesigned based on contemporary ship model plans (original was undersized for 3/16" scale)
>>> Anchor windlass kit bashed from Bluejacket casting kit
>>> Anchor windlass previously dry fitted before deck planking installation (to locate thick pads)
>>> Windlass pump handles will be stowed on the main house front
>>> Cleats fitted to catheads
>>> Hatch covers fitted to coamings & glued in place
>>> Mooring bitts fabricaled from laminated strip wood & dowled in place
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder 

Ship Modelers,
 
Next steps include installation of the bowsprit, bowsprit rigging, catheads, forward cap rails, spray rails, and ship's name. Key points include:
 
>>> Bowsprit & jibboom dry fitted
>>> Bowsprit painted & pre outfitted with rigging hardware
>>> Forestay lower deadeyes installed (to avoid access issues later)
>>> Bowsprit installed
>>> Bobstays fitted and made up (4 1/2" 15 link chain w deadeyes)
>>> Upper catheads painted & installed
>>> Forward cap rail assemble painted and installed
>>> Spray rail fitted, sanded to final shape, & painted
>>> Ship's name plates installed (later replaced w improved name plates)
 
These steps complete all outfit in the inverted position. Future posts will address completing the balance of hull and deck outfit.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Additional pictures of copper sheathing.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Next step is design and installation of copper sheathing. Key points include:
 
>>> Layout designed similar to clipper ship "Flying Fish"
>>> Copper design includes upper and lower gore strakes and a single cap row
>>> Copper sheathing 1/4" self adhesive copper tape (from Bluejacket)
>>> Plate size 1/4" x 3/4" (16" x 48") larger overlap results in scale width plates
>>> Waterline established by use of surface guage
>>> Installation guided by strips of blue painters tape
>>> Installation starts from stern post and keel working up and forward
>>> Rudder gudgens modeled with thin Bristol board
>>> Final installation sealed with wiping varnish
 
I always enjoy this portion of the build as it adds a lot of color to the model.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Thank you for your interest in "Newsboy"
 
"Newsboy" 1854 has been underway for some time.  The following are a few notes on my ship modeling techniques:
Construction is sequenced to minimize interferences, rework, and need for paint masking Construction sequence standard across builds (e.g. mid-1800's merchant sail, solid hull; mid-1800's merchant sail, machine carved hull; and, late 1700's naval sail, plank on bulkhead, etc.) Construction sequence standardized across builds (to extent possible) Test pieces used to evaluate methods, design details, paint colors, etc. (see below) Standard material lists used for repetative construction (e.g. deckhouse construction, deck fittings, etc.) Standard purchased/fabricated parts used across builds Standard materials, fittings, etc. evaluated based on full scale dimensions Rigging setup lists used to plan rigging installation spar by spar Rigging setup lists based on previous builds Thickness differences matter (e.g. deckhouse bulkhead laminations, cap rails, plankshear, etc.) Fittings, details, and arrangements redesigned where neccessary based on contemporary practice (e.g. "Newsboy binnacle, anchor windlass, fore top, etc.) Construction plans, material lists, rigging lists, design details, suppliers, etc. used across builds Lessons learned and pier evaluations used to increase skills Some of the above are based on my modeling preferences and some are based on my professional approach to applying world class manufacturing techniques to shipbuilding (design rules, design standards, standard equipment, standard fittings, modular construction, standard processes, etc.).  Note that these are my personal choice, and some may not be suitable for other shipmodelers.  
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Thank you for your interest in "Newsboy" 1854,
 
With respect to achieving clean paint lines, I try to consider painting in my assembly sequence.  Where possible, pieces are painted prior to final installation to minimize the need for masking (e.g. spray rail, cap rails, catheads in 2 pieces, hatch coamings, etc.).
 
Next steps include fabrication and installation of the deck houses.  The house sides/ends are laminated over false bulkheads with planking and posts to simulate the prototype.  Deckhouse panels are fitted to the respective coamings during construction, and the house assemblies are glued to the coamings before final installation on the model.  For illustration the forward house scantlings/materials are listed below:
Side/end backing – 3/64” sheet stock Coaming inserts & interior stiffening – 3/64” sheet stock & 3/32” sq. strip wood Corner posts – 3/32” sq. strip wood Side/end planking – 1/32” x 3/32” strip wood Side/end upper trim – 3/64” x 3/32” & 1/32” sq. strip wood Window trim – 1/32” sq. strip wood Window shutters – 1/32” x 3/64” grooved planking Door outer frames – 3/64” x 3/32” strip wood Door inner frames – 3/64” x 3/32” strip wood Door panels – 1/32” sheet stock Deck beams – 1/8” x 3/16” strip wood Deck planking – 1/16” x 3/64” glued up decking Deck margin planks – 3/64” x 3/32” strip wood (use 1/16” x 3/32” for future builds) Ladder rails – 1/32” x 3/32” strip wood Ladder steps - .020” brass wire Boat rails – 3/32” sq. strip wood Windlass brake handle stowage – 3/64” sq. strip wood Stovepipe – 3/32” brass tubing Coaming finish – Clipper Pearl Blue Cabin finish – Warm White Cabin deck finish – Ipswich Pine/Bartley Gel Varnish Cabin deck margin planks  - Clipper Pearl Blue Ladder rails, boat rails, windlass brake handle stowage – Warm White Ladder steps – Floquil Engine Black Stovepipe finish – Floquil Engine Black Peter Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Welcome,
 
Some more deckhouse pictures.  Key points include:
 
>>> Deck house bulkheads were glued to together and to their respective coamings using the deck cutout to ensure squareness
>>> Deck beams were fitted
>>> Note windlass pump handles stowed on the forward house front
>>> Note that coamings will not be glued to the hull until all adjacent outfit has been fitted
>>> Note this construction sequence gives a clean paint line between the house sides and coamings
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Thank you for your interest in "Newsboy" 1854
 
More deck house construction pictures are included.  Key points include:
 
>>> House top planking was fabricated from glued up plank sheet
>>> House top margin planks were painted prior to installation
>>> Companionway was fitted to the main house
>>> Skylight was fitted to main house (lesson learned: on future builds I will fit this into the house top planking with a shallow coaming and leave it open to create depth
>>> Smoke pipes were fitted to both houses
>>> Access ladder was fitted to aft side of forward house
>>> Boat rails were fitted to the forward house
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Hi everyone,
 
I haven't seen the Bellona upside down for several years; kind of scary unbolting it from the building board! In all the years of studying, drawing and visualizing the stern, I confess I did not fully appreciate how much the lower counter forms a horizontal shelf. I wonder how many ships boys found a nice place for a nap in the little cubby between the lower counter and the upper deck.
 
I am fairing the lower counter, and hoping to start planking it tomorrow. I'll re-read the great tutorials on planking on the website first...
 
Mark
 
 

Hi everyone,
 
Big event today. I started on the stern before Christmas, and today I finally glued everything except the upper and lower counter moldings and the two vertical counter timbers above the gun port cills. The moldings need profiles shaped before gluing, and the remaining counter timbers need a little more fitting. It is all looking shipshape!
 
Very, very slow progress on this. Good thing I am not doing this for money....
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark
 
 

Hi everyone,
 
So I finally figured out--I think--the intersection of the helm port transom and the stern post. After reviewing the photos of the original Bellona model very carefully, the helm port transom clearly intersects the stern post a little aft of center, with a bit of stern post both fore and aft of the helm port transom. So what kind of joint would suit this?
 
I considered a bridle joint intersecting the stern post. But I abandoned this idea, because this would weaken the post at the top by splitting it in two for the helm port transom to pass through. And I began to think that the continuity of the transom all the way across the stern for structural integrity was not necessary anyway. If the transom is split to save the integrity of the post, the two pieces of the transom still bridge on either side between two strong and stable anchoring points, the outer counter timber and the stern post. Furthermore, the upper deck transom (not shown yet in model or drawing) is only a little way above and aft of the helm port transom, and it bridges entirely across the stern giving all the transverse structural integrity needed here.
 
So accepting a split helm port transom, the joint to the stern post is either a dovetail or a mortise and tenon. Maybe I decided on the latter because I did not see how easily I would cut a dovetail in the top or the stern post at this late date. But I prefer to think I decided on the mortise and tenon because it would leave the stern post most structurally integral, and would provide no joint on top of the post for admitting water. This is my story and I am sticking with it....
 
The drawing shows the intersection without the lower chock for clarity, while the model shows the chocks in place, hiding the lower piece of the helm port transom on either side of the stern post.
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark
 
 

Hi everyone,
 
I continue to work on the stern, which proves to be the most complex thing I have ever built. Each piece interacts with several others, like a basket-weave. Nothing can be finally fixed, until others are fixed, which in turn depend on the first piece, etc. I discovered that even pinning things together doesn't entirely work, because the pieces move enough that fine fitting of another part is always off a bit.
 
So I decided to firm up the middle, with the rudder port chocks glued to the two adjacent vertical timbers, holding the center timber. With this as a foundation, the other parts can be fitted to something solid. That center piece was a bit tricky to shape, and I am showing a Sherline vise held by my bench vise, which allowed it to be held without breaking the open end.
 
I am also showing the helm port transom on the fore side of the timbers. Eventually, it will be cut in the middle, to come down to the top of the stern post. But I decided to keep it whole while fitting everything, to keep everything in alignment.
 
I keep thinking I am only a short time away from gluing it all up, but each little fitting of parts takes forever. Maybe next week....
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark
 
 
 
 

Hi everyone,
 
After many months, I was finally able to remove the jig today, and see the stern in all its glory.
 
I still have to trim the short pieces in the window sill area, and fair inside and out before finally gluing up and starting the transoms inboard. But it is definitely looking more like a real stern.
 
The whole thing is shockingly fragile. No wonder a broadside into the stern would just about finish the day....
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark
 
 

I've spent the past few weeks preparing for, and painting, the rails and hull.  For the most part it was turned quite acceptable to me.  There is one glaring exception, and I'll focus on that later.
 
Once the Monkey Rails were completed I proceeded to apply a sealer/primer to the rails, perform a light sanding, and then apply two coats of my white mix.  The only masking done was to protect previously painted deck and bulwarks.
 
A while ago, when planking the hull, I built an inverted stand for Arethusa, one that located the hull by the two mast holes and a number of contact points on the deck.  The stand allowed the inverted hull to located such that the waterline as horizontal, parallel to the surface it was placed upon.  This stand, very crude compared to some of the tools and stand folks here build for their models, came in quite useful a number of times.
 
I used the stand to mark the waterline with a pencil, a light line, on the hull.  I then applied two coats of the anti-fouling red/brown lower hull paint.  I purposefully carried the red paint up above the waterline mark.
 
After painting all of the rails white and the hull red, and allowing a couple of days for full drying, I masked the edges of the rails where the hull black and rail white meet.  I also remarked the waterline with my handy dandy stand, and then masked the edge of the black paint at the waterline.
 
I had previously used a draw plate/template to form the very narrow cove along the edge of the waist plank.  In full scale the cove is something like 3/8” wide, so one can image how narrow it is for a 1/48 scale model.  I was able to carve a fairly narrow cove into the plank, but it wasn’t very even.  In the process of scraping it into the plank I felt it wander, almost catching on the wood grain as it went.  I’ve looked at this detail for quite some time and had mixed feelings about it.  I was proud of having made such a narrow cove, but unhappy that is wasn’t straight and perfectly parallel to the plank edge. Herein lies the problem I encountered.  I painted the yellow of the cove, two coats, extending the paint above and below the cove to ensure the cove was fully painted.  Once that paint had cured I applied masking tape to the cove.  I had found 1/64” wide masking tape from an on-line modeling supplier and purchased it.  This stuff is rather amazing in it’s narrowness.  When I tried to apply the tape to the cove I found it very difficult to get the tape to nest down into the cove - it wanted to wander about in the cove...reminiscent of when I scraped the cove some time ago.  
 
I applied tape edge sealing coats of each of the three paint colors - white along the edge of the rails, red/brown along waterline, and yellow at the cove.  This was done to seal the edge of the tape and not allow the over-coat color to bleed under the tape.
 
Once those had dried I was clear to apply the upper hull black paint.  Two coats were applied.  The white/black edge along the rails worked quite well, as did the red/black edge at the waterline.  There were one or two very minor bleed spots, but all in all I think a good success.
 
Now....back to that yellow cove.  Once the black paint had dried I peeled back that 1/64” tape...and....not good.  The thinness of the yellow was excellent.  But, the masked sections wandered along the wandering cove.  And there was appreciable black paint bleed beneath the tape.  I am very disappointed in this and am stewing over ways to correct it. 
 
Following are a few photos of the painted hull, without and with deck furniture.  The quarterdeck of these schooners had a unique deck planking run - the planks were set parallel to the cabin, as that was a large cutout in the deck (a strength issue), to provide as much continuous planking strength as possible.  Thus, there is some unique nibbing of the outboard planks along the margin plank/waterway.  
 
The fish pens and dory skids are shown also.  The bait gurry isn't located quite properly, either.
 

Cheers,

Shipwrights

 

I’ve been puttering along, stealing a minute here and there to do small modeling tasks.  I painted the deck the darker gray, per the color previous investigated, fabricated some fish pens and dory skids, to be located athwartship the fore hatch, have worked on the rails, and am now in the process of painting the hull.  

 

I used some plans and photos of Arethusa to arrive at the fish pen and dory skid details and geometry.  I don’t have any handy photos of these, but will include them in the near future, once I begin adding deck furniture to the model.

I started on the rails, or more precisely, near the rails at the transom.  The fashion pieces on Arethusa have a peculiar shape to them.  I resorted to gluing extra wood pieces on and sanding them to shape.  It took me a couple of tries before I found them acceptable.  They are small, subtle details and I wanted them to be reasonably representative of those on the real ship.  Not exact, but close enough...

 

The main rail is composed of three strips of basswood on each side.  I learned of doing this from Charlie Cook, the Blue Jacket Shipcrafter’s on-call modeler (for customers).  When building Smuggler years ago I had many questions on modeling and he was quite helpful.  The thin strips allow for a nice continuous curve of the rail.  One of the nice benefits of using the three strips to build up the main rail is that placement of the chainplate holes through the rail is fairly easy, and they can be aligned with the cant of the chainplates readily without having to resort to drilling through the rail after it was complete.  



The transom rail (or taftrail), and stem seat, was shaped from a single piece of 1/16” thick basswood sheet.  For both the stem and transom rail seats I transferred the uppermost bulwark or transom plank edge onto heavy paper stock, then offset the desired amount to provide a slight overhang of the main rail and seats over the waist planks of the bulwark.  I then transferred those templates onto the sheet stock and cut them out.  After gluing them to the bulwark stanchions and planks, and then installing the main rail stripwood, I sanded them all flush to each other and in smooth, continuous curves.  A single edge razor was ground with a Dremel tool into the profile for the main and monkey rail inboard and outboard edges and used to finish the main rail off.  I’ve mentioned this before - I just struggle with this, both the grinding of the profile and getting a good edge on the receiving wood strip.  I’m in awe of modelers here, too many to mention, who do this regularly and whose drawn planks look like they’ve been milled by some miniature woodshop.  At times mine look like an angry beaver has just used my strip stock as a toothpick.

 

I then moved on to the Monkey Rail and Monkey Board.  The Monkey board is the vertical plank or boards (still formed into compound curvature in a plan view)which sits atop the main rail along the quarterdeck.  The Monkey Board around the transom was a challenge.  Instead of piecing it together with  three or more pieces that run along the rail periphery, as was traditionally done in Essex, MA, I made a three layer lamination of 1/16” thick basswood sheet.  I did this so that I could then cut and sand it to a profile while retaining some strength of the piece during handling.  Once the wood lamination was glued and dry I transferred the outboard transom seat edge to it, the scroll saw cut it to it plan view profile, leaving a little extra all around.  I then sanded it to its final shape, checking it constantly to the installed transom seat outer edge.  When that looked satisfactory I offset inner monkey board thickness and repeated the scroll sawing, then sanding, and check-check-checking.  When the monkey board profile was complete I sanded the lower surface of it to the transom seat, which had a slight curvature to it, fore-aft, by putting sanding paper on the seat surface and gently sanding the monkey board to it.  This allowed for a reasonably tight fit, and when glued it didn’t require a great force or preload to get it to bond to the transom seat.



The monkey board forward ends were also challenging due to the way the main mast chainplates were installed through the monkey rail and board on Arethusa.  On other schooners the chain plates pass through the monkey rail, just outboard of the monkey board, and typically the main rail outer edge is cut away to allow the chain plate to pass it.  On Arethusa the chainplates pass through the monkey board, through the main rail, and then exit on the outboard side of the bulwarks.  Here is a picture of Arethusa where the sun reflection and angle of the boat in the photo clearly show the main mast chainplates and how they pass through the monkey board and rail.  Eric Ronnberg Jr.’s model built for Thomas Hoyne also exhibit this detail, as do other photos of the ship.



After a little thought and contemplation on this I decided I would try to install the main mast chainplates in the proper manner for Arethusa. For the monkey board I chose to fabricate it from two strips of wood.  The outer one is 1/16” thick, whereas the inner one is 1/32” thick.  The 1/32” thick stuff is swiss pear I had purchased from the Hobby Mill years ago.  It was perfect for the task - really beautiful wood.  I transferred the chainplate holes in the main rail to the 1/16” monkey rail piece and used a square cross section fine file to “cut” the hole depth.  By doing this I was able to follow the orientation of each of the chainplates (from the plans I used).  I then glued the 1/32” thick piece onto the 1/16” thick piece and voile’ - a monkey board with internal passages for the main mast chainplates.  This ended up thicker than scale Monkey Board, but I’m satisfied that the extra thickness isn’t obvious, and it allowed a sound method of creating the slots for the main mast chainplates.  I’m sure there are other ways to do this, maybe easier, too.  It ‘appears’ to have worked out fine (yeah for small victories).  Time will tell...with the rigging of those chainplates and main mast shrouds.  

 

Here is a photo of the outer of the Monkey Board planks being glued in place atop the main rail.  One can see the thinner, darker Swiss Pear strip on the forward inboard side of the Monkey Board adjacent to the main mast chainplate locations.  I had glued those in place, locally, prior to gluing the Monkey board onto the main rail.



At the forward end of the main rail I’ve added some buffalo chocks and rail fillers at the location of the anchors - additional wooden fillers which were used to strengthen and protect the buffalo chock and main rail, and the thinner waist planks, from the anchor when raised, lowered, and stowed for passage.



I’ve also added small amidship waist plank reinforcements.  These were placed along the thinner bulwark planks in the region where the dories were onloaded and offloaded from the schooner.



Similarly I added strips just below the main rail just aft of the main mast chainplates...I assume to protect the main rail from damage during hauling fish and equipment up from the dories.



Once all of the rails and things were shaped and installed I applied a white sealer/filler, sanded the roughness smooth, and applied the white rail finish paint.  As noted earlier I’m now painting the hull - bulwark white is complete, the anti-fouling red/brown is on, the thin yellow cove has been initially painted, and following some masking, the hull black goes on.  Then she’ll really resemble a proper Gloucester fishing schooner and I’ll post more photos.

 

[folks - this method of weaving in pictures is new to me...it doesn't look right in the editor/preview...so my fingers are crossed that it looks OK posted]...{I've tried Padeen's suggestion and it appears to have been just the ticket - thank you Padeen}

Cheers!

...more....

the saga continues...

continued...

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 59 – Lower deck beams
 
With a marathon effort all of the monofilament bolts for the iron strapping were installed into the outside of the hull frames – except for frames that will be cut out for the view ports and for areas that will be planked over.  The lower hull was then sanded to remove all traces of the CA glue used on the bolts.
 
To relieve some of the tedium of bolting, the lower deck beams were fabricated.  I used the method developed for the Naiad beams – including the recycled Naiad template-clamp shown in the next picture.
 

 
In the picture a piece of 17” (~0.236”) thick stock is being clamped.  All of the decks on YA were rounded up 6” at midship – a simplification vs.18thC RN.  A template was lofted with this curvature and pasted to the clamp.  The clamp faces were then shaped to the curve using a disk sander.  A more elaborate process was used on Naiad.  When clamped in place as shown, a flush trim router bit with a bearing was used against the template to form the curve on the top of the beam.  The router leaves a perfectly finished surface.  The piece to the right has had a beam sawed off (described below) after rounding.  It will soon be clamped and a new top surface routed.
 
The next step after routing is shown below.
 

 
The depth of the beam is drawn on the routed blank with a compass that has its point extended to ride on the side of the piece.  The beam is then parted off near that line on the scroll saw.  A new top surface is then routed on the remaining stock.  Finally the cut off beam is passed – upside down – through the thickness sander to yield the final depth of 14” (~0.194”).  The next picture shows the set of lower deck beams, ready to be cut to length and fit into place.
 

 
The process for making rounded-up beams was covered in detail in Naiad, Volume II, including alternate methods that can be used in the absence of a router table.  Naiad’s beams were more complicated in that they were made in two pieces with tabled scarph joints.  These were simpler.
 
Setting was also simpler.  YA’s beams were all centered on every other frame joint line.  The next picture shows some of the forward beams fitted and pinned in place. 
 

 
These beams were pretty massive – 17” wide and 14” deep.  There was nothing skimpy about the construction of these ships.  The first few beams fore and aft were smaller – 15” wide.  The next picture shows the difference in width on the aft three beams.
 

 
Hard pine was used for Young America’s deck beams and many other structural components.  Also known as longleaf pine, the trees grow mainly in the southeastern United States.  The wood weighs about the same as white (or English) oak and has about 90% of its strength.  As mentioned before, I am using Castelo to simulate this species.
 
The next picture shows the beams from the main hatch aft.  The larger spacings are to clear the hatch, the water tanks and the masts.  Stout headers (aka partners/carlings) and half beams will be installed in these spaces.
 

 
The last picture shows the current state with several central beams still to be fit.
 

 
When all the beams are sized and pinned in place, centerlines will be scribed on each.  Carling locations can then be marked.  After cutting scores for the carlings, pillars and knees will need to be made before any beams can be installed.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 58 – Limber channels
 
 
Historical note: Young America, like most of her contemporaries, employed piston-type suction pumps to remove bilge water.  The reciprocating pump pistons were driven by muscle power applied to large circular crank wheels on the main deck.  Unlike the earlier chain-type pump that could only reach into a shallow sump cut into the floor timbers in the well, the suction pump could suck out water through a relatively small diameter pipe.  This pipe could extend all the way down between the floor frames to the inner face of the outboard bottom planking – in this case the garboard strake - right next to the keel.  The ability of the suction pipe to reach to the very bottom of the floor frames eliminated the need to pack the spaces between these frames – as was traditionally done to prevent stagnant water between frames and to inhibit rot in the lower timbers.  Without this packing, air could circulate between the lower timbers.  Lowering the suction point could also help keep the hold less wet.
 
Provision still had to be made to permit water to flow to the pump suction.  This was done by creating limber channels through the outboard faces of the floors.  Each frame was notched to allow water to flow to midship.  These channels were about 4” x 6” in cross section – located a few inches outside of the keel on both sides.  These channels were often – perhaps normally – fitted with chains that could be used to break blockages.  Debris could be cleared from above between frames by removing the limber boards next to the keelson.  At the ends of the ship, triangular openings under the feet of the half-frames provided passages for water into the ends of the limber channels.
 
I debated whether to include these limber channels on the model.  They will be difficult to see.  Cutting them also runs a risk of damaging the lower frames.  To be consistent with the other levels of included detail, I decide to do it.
 
In the first picture, the sides of the channels are being marked out using a compass with an extended lead, guided by the side of the point against the keel.
 

 
I imagine that in practice these notches were sawed out before the frames were assembled.  I elected to do it at this stage to help assure that the notches would run in straight lines.  The next picture shows the sides of the channels being sawed out using a veneer saw.
 

 
The veneer saw has straight (unset) teeth in a curved blade.  This turned out to be an ideal tool for this.  It is relatively easy to cut a straight line.  A small (1/32”) chisel was then used to clear the material between saw cuts.  Some different files were then used to clean up the channel.  A straight,  knife-edged file is being used in the next picture to shape the inside corners.
 

 
The next picture shows the aft end of the channel on the port side.
 

 
The channels end at the last full frames.  In this picture the half-frames aft of the channel have squared off ends that form the triangular channel mentioned above.  The next picture shows most of the channel on the port side.
 

 
The channels were formed on both sides of the keel.  I had intended to next finish the lower hull up to the lower futtock heads, but because more bolts will be needed later for the lower deck hanging knees I decided to finish only the full frames up to the floor heads at this stage.
 
This area was given a final sanding and some polishing with Scotchbrite. The bolts in this area were then blackened with liver of sulfur as shown in the next pictures.
 

 
I included this picture to give some idea of the LOS batch size and concentration.  The next picture shows some bolt heads being blackened with a brush that is only damp with solution.
 

 
Less is better.  The bolt heads turn black almost instantly from the damp brush. 
 
In the last picture wax-turpentine solution has been applied up the floor heads on one side. 
 

 
Virtually all of this first coat was absorbed into the wood. There will be more coats later.  Now back to installing bolts above the floor heads - and making deck beams.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 57 – Lower deck hooks, outer hull work
 
 
Its been awhile since the last post.  Other demands have been interrupting the work.  But some of the recent work – like drafting – is not something I usually report on.  There is still quite a lot of that to do to keep ahead of construction.
 
After dubbing off the lower deck clamps, all is ready for beam installation.  I will report on beam fabrication later, but before beam setting could commence I wanted to get the fore and aft deck hooks installed.  The first picture – taken at the bow - shows the hook below the lower deck hook installed and the lower deck hook itself being fitted. 
 

 
I lofted patterns for the deck hooks but the lower hook was hand fitted to the lowest strake of bilge ceiling.  In the next picture the first two beams have been fit and pinned into place.
 
 

 
The hooks were probably live oak and so are being modeled in pear.  The deck beams were hard pine and are being made of Castelo – like the clamps and inboard planking.
 
The next picture shows the aft lower deck hook in place and a few beams being fit.
 

 
The blue tape in this picture is trying to protect the fragile ironwork lattice at the top where no deck clamps have been installed yet.  The strapping at the bow is safely tucked under the main deck clamps.
 
The outside of the lower hull was demanding attention, as can be seen in the next picture.
 

 
The forest of protruding copper wire ends are the iron bolts securing the 8” x 8” bilge strakes on the inside.  Each bolt is also accompanied by a drop of hardened epoxy.  The first step in dealing with this is to cut off the ends as shown below.
 

 
It is dificult to clip these off flush, but making them short helps in the next step – shown below.
 

 
The wire stubs and hard epoxy are easily removed with a file, or in some areas with sandpaper.  The file works best – i.e. fastest.  When followed by sanding, virtually all traces of the epoxy are gone.   Somewhere in this process all of the missing bolts had to be installed.  Wherever these could not be drilled through from the inside, dummy bolts were installed from both sides.  These were required near the ends where drilling holes square to the frames was not possible.
 
When all of those bolts were added and cleaned up, dummy bolts for the iron lattice were installed on the outside.  Monofilament was used for these.  In the next picture one of these is being cut off flush.
 

 
These were CA glued.  They were placed along the lines of the strapping.  There are, of course, quite a few of these bolts and the work is taking some time. 
 
The current plan is to get the hull finished and waxed below the lower futtock heads before returning to the work inside.  After final sanding and just before applying wax finish to the hull frames, all of the copper bolts will be blackened.  There is still some work to do before that.
 
Ed

Thanks, everyone.
 
Grant, thanks for posting that link. The best advice I could give to anyone on "where to buy" is, let your fingers do the walking in the search bar in your browser. I buy almost everything for the model online.
 
As far as the formula for the wax solution is concerned, I don't really have one. Maybe use a tablespoon or two of wax to quarter to a half-pint of turps. The wax can be left to dissolve or helped along with some heat. Boil some water in a pot, remove from the heat and set the jar in with a loose or removed lid. Do not heat it directly or do this near an open flame.
 
I make a pretty thin solution to help it penetrate. If solid wax appears on the surface when you apply, add solvent to the mix - so everything penetrates. I have been using the same half-pint jar that I started Naiad with. It doesn't take much wax and the thin mix makes it easier to apply. The turpentine all evaporates, leaving just he wax. More can be appied to get he desired finish. Excess wax or gloss can be removed with a turps on some paper towel or a cotton swab. Once it penetrates forget gluing on it.
 
Ed