Bob Legge

Hi folks!
 
Thanks for all the positive reactions and comments to Genesis’ construction journey so far.  Much appreciated as always!
 
This latest update shows that I’ve been adding more detail to the large settees on the aft main deck, as well as bit more furniture on the aft of the Sun Deck.  
 
Also, as a homage to the real ship that Genesis is based upon, Khalilah, I’ve added gold card to the main deck house and other assorted areas of the superstructure, in order to bring some contrast to the black superstructure.
 
I hope you enjoy these photos.
 
Have a great weekend!
 
Cheers. 
 
Patrick
 
 
 

Hello,
in the meantime, I have tested other yarns in different strengths.
Meanwhile, the Irish linen yarn has arrived; one roll NeL 100/2 and two rolls NeL 90/2.

The difference to the Swedish linen yarn can be seen on the next picture. Unfortunately, I can not compare the same strengths. However, there is some difference between the two yarns.
I still have to find out how these differences will affect the finished rope.
 

In the meantime I have equipped the "looper" with an engine.

As you can see on the next picture, I practiced a lot.


 

Nice pictures of the tests Johann. The clarity of the last shot is a bit deceptive regarding the sizes for me. The ropes are beautiful in and of themselves, could you post the picture of the ropes at a 1:1 scale for reference?
 
Michael

Grinding, spackling and hull preparation for bonding fiberglass.

Hi Jim @Jimt
The scraper is just a hacksaw blade trimmed to different shapes with another saw and files where necessary, I even have the ends trimmed for doing a bead in awkward places 
 


Regards
Paul
 

Ebony has been polished down to 5000 grit sandpaper and second coat of sealer added

Regards
Paul
 

Second plank experiment, Holly strips, titebond dark glue with 3b pencil highlights, two flats of sanding sealer flatted between, so far no raising of the lines

Also at the bottom first and second attempt at belfry roof in ebony and one coat of sanding sealer
Thanks
Paul

Holly strips are glued up and ready to go, meanwhile I made the two steam gratings for the forecastle

Coamings are ebony and boxwood grating, cambered to match the deck planking, knees on starboard also finished and bolted, work on the waterway has also started with its lovely curved scarph
Regards
Paul

And other ones.... 
 

 
How I love this work .... 😎
 
Best regards and enjoy the pics.

I have also started turning the legs for the belfry, according to my plans they are only 2 ft.(12mm) High, 6"(3mm) wide at the base, I can't quite get the taper yet but I have got the shape down from the plan, I also scraped around the edge of the roof, could only manage one line though in the space. 


Regards
Paul 

I like that scraper ('s). Gonna have to learn about that. 
 
Jim

Back again. My familiy granted a little time for modelling.
Started with the construction of the forecastle. I glued two temporary planks in place, that will be removed later.
After a lot of sanding and measuring over and over again, that's what I've achieved:



 
Götz
 
 
 

Decks Planking and Capstan
 
Hi @ all!
 
The planking of deck and hull is made with the self adhesive foil with wood pattern (color: 'Pear Medium' and 'Medium Nut Tree').
 
For the decks I use the foil 'Pear Medium'. First the deck is transformed to a 1mm card by using a needle to outline the dimensions and the plank distances. Also, the plank pattern is drawn on the deck. I cut tiny stripes of 1.5mm, attach them on the card and alter with brown oil paint 'burnt sienna'. 




 
Today I would maybe use black paint for altering as it gives the deck a more greyish 'worn out' appearance. But at that time of the build I liked the more brownish color of the decks.


 
The darker wood parts such as the walls, doors, and the outer planking have been done with the 'Medium Nut Tree' foil and black oil paint for altering. Here are some pictures of some of the deck elements:










 
The irregularities in the process - which of course are the fault of the novice carpenter ;) - add a bit to the style of the early 17th century shipbuilding, which was not as precise and accurate as the later magnificent builds of the 18th century ships of the line. Gun carriages have been placed and a small box to imitate depth underneath the gratings.



 
The capstan has been made from balsa wood and card and painted with brown oil paints 'burned sienna' and 'burned umber'.





 
Next post about finishing the hull...
-Radek

Frames and Underwater Hull
 
 
Hi everyone!
 
Here's a small description of how I started the build back in 2010, some insight into my way of hull shaping.
I start with a 1mm cardboard test-frame (from frozen pizza boxes) to see where the gun ports, decks and masts will be.

 
Then I cut the middle frame from balsa wood (two 1.5mm plates glued together) to give the model stability, because card tends to deform and bend the whole structure.

 
The other frame parts (bulkheads) were cut from a 2mm cardboard (old puzzle box) and painted black using a marker where the openings from the gun ports or the gratings will allow to see the frames. The lower tiny edges of the bulkheads were hardened and strengthened with CA glue. The main gun deck was done from a 1mm card.



 
Next were the gun ports. For that I used 1mm card stripes that were glued to the frames with the gun ports in between. The ports itself were taped with the self adhesive foil with wooden patterns and 'altered' with black oil paint.

 
Then followed the 'planking' of the hull. For that I use a different approach than most modellers:
 
Instead of using several layers of horizontal and vertical card stripes or fillers with lots of sanding I use a bit less messy approach due to the fact that I do not have a hobby room and have to keep my work space in the apartment clean.
 
The next pictures show how I do the individual stripes, or rather panels, for the space between each frame, or bulkhead.






 
A scratch build like this involves a lot of 'trial and error' where I need to adjust few parts when the result is not as good as hoped for or mistakes are made.



 
Once all the 'rounded' card panels are glued onto the frame, I did not entirely get around sanding and had to sand a few places around the bulkheads to make the card smooth. Of course, the 1mm card cannot get fully rounded and shows small folds or 'wrinkles' around the edges. 


 
This made the card feel 'furry' so I used a water based white glue to smoothen the surface. In addition to the smoothening, the glue also hardens the card, giving it more integrity.





No other hull planking is added to the model at this stage. The following step for the hull is applying the foil with wooden pattern. But first the upper side of the ship including upper hull and decks had to be done. 
 
So much for now. More will follow soon.
 
Right now I am making the sails and running rigging.
 
Rgds,
Radek
 
PS: Thanks Steven and Patrick for the encouragement!
PPS: I've corrected the year of the beginning in my first post. It was 2010 and not 2011.

Hello everyone,
 
I was able to continue on the Mayflower and almost finished the standing rigging. One interesting detail that is not in the plans are the catharpins. Now I know my model is not very accurate as it comes to history, but I tried to do cathharpins that are from about that era and found the answer in R.C. Anderson's book about seventeenth century rigging.
 
Last time I rigged a ship model (except my Elbing Cog in 2010) was as a teenager in the last millennium. Hence my rigging is very clumsy; especially the ratlines, because I did not use a pattern mask. Here are some pictures from the progress so far and my apologies for the bad photographs, all made by my old smartphone camera. I have bought a snapshot camera today and hope to post better pictures next time.
 
When time allows I will also post some older pictures of the techniques I've used in this card model.
 
Rgds,
Radek
 

Hi all
On a slightly different note a lovely slab of beech arrived the other morning for the new workbench.
Still got to make some drawers for the left and right sides.....vacuum lived in the middle!
Bench top is 2m in length.....plenty of space for tools!
Just waiting for the danish too dry.
Cheers.....mick

Hi carl
Amongst other things.............
Tools in place time for some storage.

Just to add balance.....the other side of the room...

hi all
finally started on the gunport hinges
almost forgot to put the clocks back today.......extra one hours modelmaking...yipee!!!
photos for your perusal
hopefully they will load in order....but if not the method should be self evident 
 
cheers....mick

Hi alde
Photos as promised
I ve took some of my usual model making planes
A lie nielsen
And a quangsheng luban pocket plane.
Plus a small spokeshave...ebay find
This still needs to be fettled and the blade sharpened.
 

hi all
just a quick update on the latest progress.
the list of things to do is getting shorter and shorter!
must remember to order some 3/8 boxwood for the masts
 
getting ready for some intensive metal working anchors ,rudder pintles,gunport hinges etc 
 
photos enc as usual

Looking good mick, Nice work
Regards
Paul 

I completed the deck and created it a very 'unconventional' way. I made a false deck from 2-ply maple and sanded it into shape. 
Took maple stock and used my table saw to cut long planks of 1mm thick by 360mm long by 5mm wide. The planks for the deck are 120mm (4-3/4") long strips. 
Took the false deck out of the hull, laid it on the table and planked it taking into account where the frames were. 
Still need to sand the deck and with it being 1mm thick I can sand away. The sides are to be sanded to slightly past the false deck so when it is placed in the boat it will bulge a bit giving it a slight curve 

 
I can do the above method as the deck is in 2 parts. The larger part can slide in. 
 
I also cut the top railing to size. 

Marcus 
 
 
 

Dry fit deck. 

 
Dry fit deck with cabin 

 
Marcus 

November 2018
Fig-141 The midship House frame work of angle iron - brass - is first tinned then located to the individual positions, one at a time, and heated with he carbon rod to melt the soft solder to attached it in place.  Note that paper wrapped around the carbon rod to insulate it from the side of the deck house.  This was a problem in the early stages, as contact with the rod will cause it to heat up and melt anything close by.  But a small sheet of paper rapped around it and held in place with Cellotape was all that was needed to solve the problem.