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About goetzi73

  • Birthday August 30

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  1. Hello everyone, a long time has gone since my last post. In the meantime, I've made little progress. Finished the channels, main mast and the crow's nest. Crow's nest: After 10 (!) attempts I'am somehow satiesfied with the results. Still another one to do...
  2. Using Tamiya's Primer is a good way to start. For Painting a figure head using oil paints are the most common way, as mentionend in the previous posts. However my experience is, that a layer of the correct Acrylic Model Paint after the Tamiya Primer will avoid nasty surprises, as white spirit may dissolve parts of the primer. For painting realistic wood effects: Have a look at all that plastic modeller forums.
  3. Hello Steven, for further Information: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coat_of_arms_of_Bremen and the official Website of the City of Bremen: https://landesportal.bremen.de/bremer-landessymbole (in german, maybe google translator will help) Götz
  4. The Colors look fantastic. One question about your "special mixture": Once dried, does it leave any stains when touched, or do you apply a clear coat afterwards?
  5. Just an addition: Personally I'am using Iwasaki files for cabinet-making and ship modelling. These files are superior to normal cabinet files. The teeth cut aggressively, but leave a very fine and smooth surface. You may have a look here: https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/iwasaki-carving-files.aspx Götz
  6. Hello Richard, one important thing to point out: The Festool machinery is for professional use. Therefore it has to match certain criteria, at least here in Germany. Dust is classified in categories L, M, H. For wood shops using a M-class extractor would be recommended. In our modelling ship yards a L-class machine should be sufficient. Nevertheless wood dust can be carcinognic (e.g. beech). Personally I'am using a festool CTM Midi in my workshop. It works fine with my large Power Tools, I use for cabinet-Making and all other stuff around my house, and it works fine with my proxxon tools I use for modelling. Yes, these are expensive, Makitas extractors are less expensive, but you get a nice machine that's robust and easy to handle. It's your choice, but I would recommend using at least an extractor certified as L-class. Götz
  7. What a nice model. It was really enjoyable following your build. When you've finished your rebuild - your next ship model will be...? Perhaps something australian? Götz
  8. Hello Louie, I'am a native speaker (german), too. But in this case it's difficult for me. Nevertheless from the old low-german dialect, the phrase "sie haffen stund" could mean "they where waiting", oder "they were standing (watching, etx.)". The phrase "so al von den turken skafft" could mean "bought from the turkish", "got from the turkish", "it was al brought / bought by the turkish". Looking at the drawing, I'am not sure if this word really writes "skafft". The first letter could also be someting else than "s". Maybe we have someone here with proper knowledge in medeavial european languages. Regards, Götz
  9. Thanks Steven. @ chuck: I'am glad there are quite a few experts on this forum. Unfortunately I'am a chemist not a historian. One more tip - in "middle low german" the word "kraweel" was commonly used, especially in the period of the hanseatic league. "Krewaal" was used also, but it is less common. Another point: The phrase "hanseatic cog" (Hansekogge) is often used in common language as an generic term for all types of ships of this era. Götz
  10. Thanks Steven and druxey and the others for all the likes. Hopefully the next update will go a little faster, but there's only 24h a day. Götz
  11. After a few month of silence, here's another update. Finished the rails on the forecastle. Next were the two ladders. I did not take pictures of the work in progress, sorry. Small parts will be next.
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