Pete38
-
Posts
687 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by Pete38
-
Mark thanks for the nice compliment Just try to make it so I don't have to go back and make the frames over again. 50/50 chance so far -
Good advice Russ, I will give it a try. Back to the drawplate
-
Great news.... Beams are looking good. Another small milestone behind
-
Thanks Paddy. I use the draw plate from Jim Byrnes If you read this tread on treenails http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/740-treenails/page-2#entry25444 it talk about the byrnes and jeweler's drawplate (one made for wood the other made for metal)
-
Here are the finished treenail in one of the frames after doing a little sanding with some 320grit paper
-
I set up my dremmel workstaion with a scrap piece of wood on the bottom to prevent tearout in the frames as the bit passes through. Made sure the drill bit (.310 size) was square with the base Then drilled the marked holes all the way through the frame. Being carefull to back the bit out multiple time to clean so as to keep the hole drilling straight. I then started to install the treenail in the frame (using bamboo treenail) When dry fitting the treenail in the frame there was no problem getting the treenail all the way through the frame, but when adding some waterdowned glue, this would swell the bamboo just enough to make it a problem getting all the way through. Have to work fast in order to make it in one length of treenail
-
Since the last 2 frames are in process of being glue decided to start the treenails on the frames. First I cut a piece of heavy plastic (from screw container) and made a template for the treenail positons. This in order to repeat my pattern with all the frames. This idea was taken from some previous post on MSW1 (I had seen this in chad86 build) Temporary attach to the frame with a little tape and mark the locations of the treenails with a pick I marked the hole this way instead of using the plastic patten on the dremmel drill press so the hole would not loose their loaction
-
Thank you Russ, much appreciated.
-
Now I see them. Very nice frames
-
I have now cut all the notch with my mill in the fames. Still have 2 frames left to be glued. Hopefully tommorrow. With that done I can now glue up my keel and false keel and get them mounted to my building board. Have been using the keel itself to check and size the notchs I wanted to try the black paper approach to simulate the caulking at least 1 time so I fiqured this is the simplest place to try it. I started by glueing the false keel to the black paper itself. I had heard somewhere that when using the paper it would weaken the joint, so I treated it like it was just another piece of wood to glue between the two. After the glue had dried I then glued and clamped the keel to it After the glued had dried on this assemble I scrapped the excess glue off. Dome some light sanding with a sanding stick with 80grit then used a razor blade to scrape to get the final finish on the piece. I have left the false keel long on each end so that I can mount it securely to the build board with no worries of it moving. This was the first time using the black paper and will propably be my last. I will go back to the pencel to simulate any caulking that I will do. The paper when sanding down can leave a mess on the wood that was a bit of a pain to get cleaned off. Even though it looks okay.
-
Thank you Larry and Paddy for the comments, A mill is a nice item to have, mine is the sherline and am very happy with it.
-
Not seeing any pictures either.
-
Pretty sure the keel should be straight with no curve to it.
-
Nice start, after seeing what you have done with the kits (bashing) this should be no problem for you. Great jog on those and looking forward to more on the your cross section
-
After seeing the swivel gun, you ain't going to have any problems with the cannon for the cross section. Good job and looks great
-
Thanks for the reply gnetlemen, 42rocker, depending on the type of wood you may gets some tear out on the edges. Try a test piece first and if this happen but a "sacrifice" piece of wood behind it to eliminate the tearout. Something like you do when you router the endgrain on a board.
-
Welcome to the cross. Once you get the keel done and they give you access to the download area you will see a section with the drawings of the cannons. As Matrim said these were the 9pdrs. Think it would be fun to try and turn these ourselves, then if it don't work out go out and buy some Looking forward to your build
-
Hello Hopeful David It is great to see your Sultana back here in the build logs. I am going to follow your build again. I plan on getting back to mine after my sidetrack to the darkerside I may go ahead a repost what I have. It can show other people what not to do Looking forward to build, you have always done such a great job.
-
As per Wikipedia The Mermaid class frigate were a group of six 28-gun sailing frigates of the sixth rate designed in 1760 by Sir Thomas Slade, based on the scaled-down lines of HMS Aurora (originally a French prize, L'Abenakise, which had been captured in 1757). The contract for the prototype was agreed on 12 May 1760, for a ship to be launched within twelve months, and her name was assigned as Mermaid on 28 October 1760. The contract for the second ship was agreed on 10 March 1762, for a ship to be launched within thirteen months, and the contract for the third ship was agreed on 2 April 1762, for a ship to be launched within fourteen months; both names were assigned on 30 April 1763. Some ten years after the design was first produced, it was re-used for a second batch of three ships which were ordered on Christmas Day, 1770 during the dispute with Spain over the ownership of the Falkland Islands. While the design differences from the first batch were minor (the keel was a few inches longer), the second batch were normally designated the Modified Mermaid class. Triton Ordered: 25 December 1770 Built by: Henry Adams, Bucklers Hard. Keel laid: February 1771 Launched: 1 October 1773 Completed: 15 October 1773 to 4 November 1775 at Portsmouth Dockyard. Fate: Taken to pieces at Deptford Dockyard in January 1796.
-
When cutting the notches in the frames for the keel and keelson I use my mill. I know you can do this easily by hand, but the mill was there I started by making sure the vise I was using was square and straight with the head by using a dial indicator to indiacte it in (within .002 to .003 straight) I would then clamp the frame sections in with the line just even with the top of the vise. On the first one I did I set the depth that I would need. This will keep all the remaining frame members cutting to the same depth and repeatability. Then I used a 3\8 4 flute end mill to cut the notchs. Using the Keelson or Keel I would check the fit of each cut and adjust as need with the mill or a 150 grit sanding stick Doing it this way for me also let me keep the notch square with the frame as I would also check this each time. Hope this helps someone
-
As stated in my previous post, here are some pictues and explanations on the way I have been doing it. If you have another way or better way please feel free to post it here or comment (critisize) When sanding the end of my frame members, I have been using a disc sander with a 320 grit paper. I use this because all the rest were a 80 grit and that was way to rough for me (takes off to much to quick) the 320 grit was just about right, had to go slow so as not to burn the end of the wood, so this let me control amount taken off. Sanded up to the line and left it. Also before starting any sanding I always check the table to the disc for squareness. Even though I did not change anything between frame I found the table had move a little after each use. (no matter how much I tightened it) THIS IS A MUST
-
Joss and Russ-appreciate you looking in, Your comments and suggestions really help. Ron-I don't know about better but they will do for my first scratch build. Paddy, thank you for the compliment. Looking forward to seeing you start your build log of the cross section. I have alot more pictures than what I post so that I can have a record of how I did this. Pictures help me more than a page of words.I plan on trying to post some more of how I did certain things (maybe it will help someone or someone can show me a better way) As far at the list, thanks go to all the other people who started the ONLINE TRITON BUILD and to the ones who took the time to start build logs, post their progress and help those like me who really need it. Thank you
-
Very nice cross section, love the rigging, Great job.
-
Nice set up for bending the beams, I wonder should one overbend the beams some to account for any spring back to original shape, or will it dry enough to maintain the shape in the jig?? Will wait and see
-
Good choice, Can't wait to see more
Our Emblem ®
