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Pete38

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Everything posted by Pete38

  1. Very nice job on the first planking.....form looks very good.... Great job on getting rid of the "buldge" Will continue to follow with interest
  2. Very nice work....a model to be proud of..... Can't wait to see it in the display case.... Your workmanship has set a high bar here in the cross section
  3. The first finished x section on MSW2 A build to be proud of....Thank you for sharing your knowledge and build with the rest of us. It has been a great learning experience.
  4. Bob, Your choice's of wood have turned out "outstanding" Very nicely done.......Looking forward to see it in it's display case
  5. That is looking good... One thing that I do is use a straight edge to mark the high spots, then take a pencil and mark the place. As I sand the pencil mark is removed and I can gauge how much I need to take off Your doing great, keep up the good work
  6. Thanks Antony and Paddy for looking in. Russ...it seemed like the best way to temporarily hold the beams in place without anything being in the way of laying out out the lines I needed??
  7. Slow and steady gets the job done Nice going....the frames are looking good...the scrapper is leaving a nice finish on the frames....
  8. New beams have been bent and temporary installed on x-section for marking. Drilled through frames and used straight pins to hold beams....will be planked over later to cover holes Layed out most of the cross beams while main beams were on the x-section. May be hard to see the lines Started cutting the cross beams to length..used scrap wood on miter to prevent any tear out when cutting to length.. Decide to use clamps to hold wood while cutting....[to close to moving blade for my fingers] Here is my set up......maybe it may help someone later on. Pictures should explaing Back to the shop for more sawdust
  9. Thanks for all the encouragement, as stated above the 1:48 plans have been stored away under lock and key then threw away the key Will continue on with correct plans.
  10. Guess I am lucky, where I work at a maintenance tech. I have a friend {tool and die tech} in our in house toolroom save any of the milling bits that they no longer use. Slightly worn for some of the steel applications but still of good use for wood. Mostly 4 flute and some 3. anywhere from 1/8" up to 1/2" for size. Have enough now to probably do me for the next 10 years or so. Get a few carbide but not many. Mostly use HSS in the shop.
  11. Went to the shop to start fitting the beams. Layed out the first one and cut and fitted between the frames as stated above by Russ. Everything was look good----so I thought I had measured the width of the beams and cut correctly...from the 1:48 plans I had for reference....not the 1:32 plans I am using.... Those go to the scrap bin for latter use and re cut and steaming the correct one now. Just one more small setback in the dockyards. So will start fitting tomorrow....
  12. Nice job on the ladders, Just curious, where online did you find the cover for the base, Looking good....
  13. Looking really nice...from the pictures it looks like it will fair up nicely with out "to much" hard work. Good luck and have fun sanding....sanding....sanding....sanding....
  14. Thanks for the quick reply Rusty....correct or not that looks like a good way to do it. Makes sense that you would have something to attach the beams to besides the framing...frame spacing may not come out to you beam spacing every time. Maybe we should go back to the old Polaroid Land Cameras....not so much detail shows up
  15. Just remembered my beams were still clamped up so took them out...Should be dry by now They held the camber pretty well...I'm happy with them Now for a question???? Do the beams go all the way from frame to frame or is there planking between the frames and the beam ends? I must be overlooking something because I am seeing it both ways. In this drawing it shows them going from frame to frame In this one is show a plank behind the beams\ If they do go from beam to beam do you just use small filler planks between them Hope this is not to confusing for you to understand because it is for me. Thanks for any reply and help.
  16. Thanks for looking in and the comments Paddy....yes I added about 25% extra on the height to compensate for any spring back.
  17. Aykutansin...thank you for looking in and the nice comment Antony.....thank you also for the nice comment and looking in. This is my first scratch build {any build actually...only about a fourth of the way through the Sultana kit from Model Expo} Could not kit into the "kit" for some reason. may return to it later. I might just leave part of the frames exposed....like you said "pulls much more interest into the model" Since I will be try to do the deck beams of the model before installing, decided to go ahead and bend the camber into the beams. Set up my old cake pan I use for steaming wood that I need. brought it up to a low boil and let simmer for about 30 minutes with a weight to keep them covered in water Then but them into a jig to try for at least 24 to 36 hours, to make sure they are dried enough and hold their camber. While these are drying will work on some other thing on the model Thanks for looking in and any comments or suggestion are more than welcome {good or bad}
  18. Mark Thanks for the quick reply. I have most of Chad's build log printed out on paper from before the crash, that is where I had seen it and was curious. I will probably not add it as time constraints and learning curve {after all this x-section is intended to learn by} would be alot right now. It's hard enough for me just to get the hang of what here. Thanks again
  19. Have a question for the group.... Would the shot locker that is in the TFFM books or the Echo Cross Section be suitable for the Triton Cross Section... Not sure yet but since I am at the larger scale may put this into the the build also....... Thanks
  20. Rusty and Paddy...thanks for looking in and the nice comments... Was able to get the treenails done in the lower planks and 1 side sanded.... I am satisfied with they way they have turned out..think will look better once the clear coat "oil" is applied Before moving on decided to fair the out side before to mush was in the way on the inside. Was a little worried about the way I decided to do this, but figured the worst that could happen is that is falls apart and I start over. But it held up really well Used my 5" orbital sander starting with a 40 gritt and moving up to a 220 gritt. Done this outside using my porch railing and a old pillow Once I got up to the 220 gritt I moved it to my leg for better control So here is where it stands as of now Have not yet decided on whether I will leave any of the framing exposed or plank the whole outside. Framing just doesn't look that good to me and I might just cover up the mess. Time to look at the prints will be starting the lower deck framing next.
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