druxey

From Lincoln Paine's blog:
 
This is a preliminary list of the 110+ books submitted for consideration for one of the eight John R. Lyman Book Awards in maritime history presented by the North American Society for Oceanic History (NASOH) for titles published in 2023.
 
 
 
https://lincolnp.substack.com/p/john-r-lyman-book-award-submissions
 
 
 
 

That’s a good idea, Druxey.  Depending on how the ground glass looks, I might give that a try for size variation if nothing else. Thanks.
 
Gary

I wonder whether a piece of tempered glass, shattered, would provide granules of the scale size?

Every model is a learning process and it looks as if you are doing well. 

I wonder whether a piece of tempered glass, shattered, would provide granules of the scale size?

Chapter 6
which will talk about the power of advice, and the author calms down and even rejoices. But it's not accurate.
 
When I was a student, there was a guy who went to school with me. In the course, he played the role of the joker. He was always cheerful and would drop jokes and witticisms on every occasion. With such an easy to communicate, but he was irresponsible and even lazy, often took his duties not seriously, from which he himself and suffered. And the other students at some point realized that it is better not to rely on him, he could easily fail. People can be like that. I remembered him now because at first many fellow students tried to correct him, to press on his conscience or to show that his not serious attitude could bring him problems. Usually at such moments they would say:
Sasha, I want to give you some advice. 
And then he would turn the conversation into a joke and answer:
- “What a country of Soviets. Well, give your advice. (play on words: Soviets = advice)
After that, someone would wave his hand and decide that there was no point in trying to make sense out of it. Someone still expressed his opinion, saying that Sasha does not do right. But often after the advice, our cheerful fellow student would make another joke, again showing that he was not in the mood to dramatize the situation. Eh, don't worry, everything will be fine.
Ever since my student days, when I hear the word “advice”, I remember this classmate.
 
I remembered it now, because after this introduction, the conversation in this part of the story will begin with advice. And these tips I asked other forum members. Because I could not figure out how to make a molding in the form of a curved ellipse. Now I am already surprised, because the solution was simple and obvious, even strange, how could not guess? But I was really stumped. And the decision to seek advice was a good one. So I want to say thank you very much for your active participation and good advice. In this thread I often ask for help, and always get good discussions that help in working on the ship. 
And now I will show you what I got.
 

 

 

 
This is the template I got. Maybe I could have made it out of brass with less thickness, but I was afraid that the template could deform when working.  Thanks to the advice I immediately paid attention to the fact that when making moldings there are two options: 1- to fix the template with the workpiece stationary and hands to move the scraper; 2 - to fix stationary scraper, and hands to move the template. Since I didn't know which option was better, I decided that the template should be such that it fits both options without problems. The holes around the edges will allow the template to be fixed stationary. They may also be useful in the 2nd method. Since the template is not that big, it may be difficult to hold. 
In this case I can screw some kind of rail to the template, which I will use as a handle. 
 
At first I tried the 1st way, but then I changed my mind and fixed the scraper stationary. I can't give a definite answer as to why I decided to do it this way. Most likely both methods can do the job. But for some reason I felt more comfortable moving the template. I fixed the scraper primitively and not beautifully, just clamped it between two bars. Like this. 
 


Here is a photo of the very beginning of the process, a little later I added another addition to this primitive clamp for the scraper. Even more primitive. Almost at the very tip of the scraper, I hammered in two nails. They gave even more rigidity to the scraper, it did not sag from the pressure and this addition was enough for me. As you can see from the photo, I did not attach to the template and lath - handle. It turned out to be quite convenient to hold the template in my hands. And after a while I got a molding in the form of the necessary shape.
 


The arch should continue I the form of straight sections, so I immediately with the use of the same two scrapers (outline of the inner part of the molding + outer outline) made and straight sections. On the same my depot for the moldings I have already shown.
 

 
All that was left was to put it all together. This is what it looked like when finished. I particularly enjoyed adjusting the tiers on the straight sections. I made the gap at the arch on purpose. According to my idea, the window frame will be placed in this niche later. Of course, it could have been done differently, but this gap will simplify several problems at once. At first I thought about how to properly describe everything in my head, but then I changed my mind. When the stage of work is up to the window frames, everything will be easier to understand from the photos. Much easier than my explanations now. I will emphasize the main thing: the gap at the arch is made on purpose, it is not because of my crooked hands and blind eyes. Do not throw rotten tomatoes.
 

 

 
Hmmm. I sincerely thought I could fit everything into one post until the end of this little object. But now I'm looking at how much I've written, and I think it's best to stop there. 

What words will I leave as a conclusion? Last time, I wrote about how a lot of things didn't work out for me the first time. And I was dissatisfied, even annoyed. Now I felt quite the opposite emotions. Throughout the work with the molding-arch I enjoyed it. When I thought about how the final design should look like, how I will then insert the window frame here, when I made a template, when I put all the parts together. And even when I was preparing this post. I guess it's all about spring. Although, wait, it's almost summer already!

Both those weathered looks seem fine on camera, even if the first was unintended!

Beautiful work, and a beautiful vessel, Patrick. As usual your handiwork is superb. She's taking shape beautifully, and looks just like I'd imagined she would have in real life.
 
Steven

Its clear to see how you are going about planking the hull that will support the forecastle.  Yours is a fabulous project that will help me when I resume work on the Great Harry.  Thanks!

Every model is a learning process and it looks as if you are doing well. 

Don't laugh at these batchelors: many if these rather eccentric but highly skilled men men were PTSD sufferers from WWII. This was their self-prescribed therapy.

Don't laugh at these batchelors: many if these rather eccentric but highly skilled men men were PTSD sufferers from WWII. This was their self-prescribed therapy.

Don't laugh at these batchelors: many if these rather eccentric but highly skilled men men were PTSD sufferers from WWII. This was their self-prescribed therapy.

It was articles on builders like him in The Model Engineer that inspired me as a kid.

Some of these aren't after fully sanding, but it doesn't look much different.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Thanks for looking,
Matt

Log #8
 
I've made some pretty good progress over the last few days. Planking is complete, although not perfect, it's pretty decent and was a great learning experience. The boat is off the build board; but that was right before bed so I haven't even cut the frames back yet.
 
Some 'questionable' clamping techniques and some not too bad ones:
 

 

 

 

 
Starting to come together - looking pretty even:
 

 

 
Wet bending the final planks:
 

 
So far everything has fit very nicely. Multiple dryfit checks confirmed the strakes should go on pretty good as well. As I finished gluing the final planks, there was a small issue which I believe was partially caused by the defective laser cut offset in every plank on the port side. Not a massive issue, but I noticed in order to line everything up and match them correctly, the stern end needed a bit of a 'lift' which caused the plank to bend at a weird angle and bow out between a couple frames.
 
Patience, a long period of holding by hand while curing and some diluted glue to get between the planks helped immensely and I was happy with the result.
 
Once confident the glue was cured enough for me to let go, I started inspecting it and noticed the starboard strake was higher than when I initially lined it up. It must've slipped slightly while I was holding it because I made damn sure it looked good when I put it on. In any case, it wasn't terrible, but then it made the uneven rope holes (don't know the nautical name) glaringly obvious. I took about 30 second before I decided this needed to be fixed. I started running alcohol over the seam, praying that it wouldn't release the other board as well since they were both recently glued.
 

 
I won't get into the details, but I wasn't perfectly happy with how this went. A big lesson learned in terms of giving myself enough time - I put myself into a rushed situation and butchered the inside of the plank a bit. In the end, I was able to pull it back to the first frame and refit it. Much better; however, still not lined up perfectly. I realized I placed the port plank a bit further forward than the starboard plank. I immediately wished those holes were left un drilled so I could line them up manually. After the hack job I did trying to debond part of the starboard side, I decided to wait until further inspection before doing any further damage removing an entire plank.
 
After some thought I realized the unevenness will be less noticeable once the rope is in, and also isn't noticeable unless looking from 'underneath' the boat. On top of that, the breast hook is going to cover it up from the inside. Then I realized the breast hook is also going to hide the damage I caused on the inside of the starboard plank. I will still do the best I can to add some filler and sand it down, but this made me feel better about it
 
I then trimmed the planks, sanded it all down (working on some of the excess glue as well) and was quite happy with the result. I was about to call it quits, but decided to take a crack at removing the building board. It came off about 100x easier than I expected. Really just slid right out as I pressed each frame up 1 at a time from underneath.
 
In hindsight, I should've glued the defective side first and then the 'good side'. Since the entire sheet of port planks had defects, some of my flexibility was lost so I feel it would've been easier to use the good planks to conform to the needs of the bad ones. Finally, I spent so much time and attention making sure the planks were vertically aligned, I failed to make sure they were at the same distance from the front. Honestly, I didn't think this would be an issue since its all trimmed and sanded down, as well as a false stem being added later. Those sneaky holes changed that theory.
 
I'll go ahead and post this, then leave a second post with just pictures of where I ended.
 
Thanks for looking,
Matt

Thank you to all for the comments, likes and for following along.
 
 Quick update.
 
 The main's channel shrouds are done. The little 3mm deadeyes (far left) are crazy small to lace and attach. I'm glad there are only two per mast.   
 
 Other than weaving the main's channel shroud ratlines and attaching the main yard with both lifts and braces, from the main mast aft all the rigging is done. 

 
 Thank you again to all of you for your thoughtfulness.
 
  Keith

Thank you, MikeY.
I will poke around with combination of hand tools, milling machine, patience, etc and hopefully have some satisfactory result for me...
 
 

Sanding would never leave a perfectly flat surface, no matter how straight your hand is. Milling is the best, but if using handtools only or if mating curved pieces - then shave off the curved center area with a blade or a knife. If one really want to make the joint disappear - you can scrape the middle with a curved tool, creating a tiny ”shallow zone” 😊
Good luck with these!

Thank you KLarsen, 
Will try that method as well..
It is already looking better just playing with chisel.. the new parts will still be made but this is a good test..
 
 

I usually scrape the joints with a sharp knife, that makes it perfectly flat.
If you leave a little more wood around the piece and create the joint first, it doesn't matter too much if you have to make any corrections. When the joint is done, sand the rest of the piece down to shape.

Just skill and not a Proxxon in site

Don't laugh at these batchelors: many if these rather eccentric but highly skilled men men were PTSD sufferers from WWII. This was their self-prescribed therapy.

It was articles on builders like him in The Model Engineer that inspired me as a kid.

I bet he knew fellow bachelor Duncan of Middlesex!