druxey

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 127 – Mr. Brodie’s Stove
Posted 3/25/12
 
It has been two weeks since the last post. I’ve been working back along the forecastle with beams and the upper deck detail below them. The picture below shows beams 5 and 6 with the copper knees - not yet blackened. The foremast partners were installed before these beams and are partly visible.
 

 
Beam 7 and 8 were also installed, but that was as far as I could go until the Brodie Stave was made and installed.
 
The Brodie Iron Stove had become the standard by Naiad’s time. It was introduced in the 1780’s but was not dissimilar from types used up to that time. An iron housing contained two built in cauldrons for boiling water. One can imagine 250 pounds of salt meat being loaded into this daily. Below these pots was a firebox with doors on either side for charging fuel – wood or coal. A smaller door below the firebox grate was used to remove ash. A contained oven, accessible from doors on either side, could be used for baking. The front of the stove, the range, was open in the front and was equipped with arms for hanging pots and one or more rotating spits, turned by chain pulleys driven by a vane inside the stack. There was a drip pan under this spit.
 
The finished model of the stove for Naiad is shown below.
 

 
I have been working on this for the last few weeks. I decided to make it from photo-etched parts, but it proved impractical to photo-etch all the pieces then solder these very small parts together. I won’t go through the gory details of the learning process or the earlier failed attempts. I finally settled on making the basic stove structure from a photo-etched plate that could be folded up, origami style, into the basic stove, then making the detailed parts separately. This version has been in production for about a week
 
The next picture shows this photo-etched plate, which was the starting point.
 

 
Some of the stove detail is engraved on the sides – the firebox and oven doors and the front grille. The necking down of the stack transition is the odd part in the lower center of this picture. The next picture shows the basic shape mostly cut out.
 

 
The fold lines were etched out on the back and also one on the front. In retrospect all the etchings could have been deeper. The next picture shows some of this being cut out with a jeweler’s saw.
 

 
In this picture the front vent flap sides are being cut so it can bend up over the stove opening in the front. This piece was made from .032” brass. It might have been better to use a thickness closer to .020”. My early attempts were with much thinner material – too thin, but this thickness made the silver soldering, especially the fastening of the small details, a lot more difficult.
 
The next picture shows the stove in the process of being folded up.
 

The edges along the joints had to be chamfered back to make a tight fit along the seams. The next picture shows the basic stove after silver soldering.
 
 

 
At this stage the internal partitions, the stack, the boiler top, the range grille and the base plate are attached. This soldering required high heat – a regular sized propane torch – hence the blackening. This was pickled off between soldering steps using Sparex dip. Finally the brass-copper fabrication was blackened with dilute Hobby Black. It took about an hour to turn the final shade – shown in the second and the next/last picture.
 
The last picture shows the finished stove in its final position between the bitt standards on the upper deck.
 
 

 
The base plate will be bolted through the deck. The upper stack will be added later when the forecastle is framed.
 
Getting this built was a major milestone. The next big project is the capstan.
 
Cheers,
 
Ed

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 128 – Upper Deck Gratings, Shot Racks
Posted 3/28/12
 
I wanted to model the gratings on the hatches on the upper deck in the waist. This reduces visibility down through the hatches, but there is a lot of open space on the starboard side to see down into the hull. These needed to be installed before the crankshafts for the pumps.
 
I used the method that I am sure many have used to make these. The first picture shows the key parts ready for assembly.
 

 
The supporting ledges and the slats are 2 ¾” wide. The ledges were made deep enough to allow them to be rounded up to match the head ledges of the hatches. The large piece in the lower part of the picture is the assembly jig. All these pieces except the slats were cut using the set up in the next picture.
 

 
A square of Plexiglas was cut to fit the saw table. The saw was fitted with a 2 ¾” (.045”) slotting blade. A dado was ripped into the Plexiglas to fit a guide strip and the opening for the blade cut into it. The boxwood stock was then ripped by guiding it on the wood strip. There is nothing new about all this.
 
The boxwood was then ripped into 2 ¾” wide strips using a much thinner blade. These were then placed in the fixture as shown below.
 

 
The fit in the fixture is loose enough to slide the ledges back and forth. The slats were then fit into the notches. These were a tight fit, but a thin film of glue was applied to the bottom face to help keep the assembly together when removed. The next picture shows a section of grating before sizing.
 

 
The next picture shows the gratings fit to the three hatches in the waist.
 

 
The bottoms of the ledges were sanded until the center of the grating was flush at the head ledges. They were then glued in and the round up sanded top match the curve of the head ledges. They were then finish sanded and polished up.
 
Shot racks were then made and added on the decked side only.
 

 
The shot holes were made with a cannon ball sized spherical cutter in the milling machine, using the Sherline sensitive drilling attachment so the holes could be stopped at a uniform depth - about 1/3 the diameter of a ball - into the edge of a wide piece of pear stock. The strips were then ripped off, cut to length, rounded and glued in place. They were omitted from sides of ladderway openings.
 
Cheers,
 
Ed

Russ thanks.
 
Mathew thanks for looking in.
 
Bob, Jewelery now that is an interesting idea.
 
Stelios, "when I grow up" :D
 
Garward thanks for your kind words.
 
Popeye, yes actual rigging.
 
Germanus before I forget thank you for your comments regarding the need to balance the size of the shackles, I had realized this.
 
If I missed anyone my apologies
 
While this computer was doing the updating  I did spend most of the day working on the shackles I set up a small travelling steady to cut the pins for theshackles
 

 
after drilling the holes for them .
 

 
Each shacle was placed on the wood bar and clamped in the mill vice to drill the holes.the holes are .073 inch
 

 
the retaining rings were snipped off the ends of these compression springs from the spare springs box. I did make some from the .011 thou piano wire but they were a little too fine .
 
Michael
 
 

Hi Guys. Another update for you and this time as far back as we can go on the orlop, but has more to do with strengthen the transom's more then the Orlop deck. Some call them sleeper beams and Goodwin call's them transom knee's, which you can see on page 108 in his book Sailing Man of War,1650-1850.In the photo's you will also see the last beam of the gun deck along with knee's for the deck transom and the knees for the last deck beams. Most 3rd rates had three of them per side. Hope you enjoy the photo's folks.
 
 
 
 
 

There are almost always problems with the old plans because of either dimensional instability of the paper, or distortion in reproduction of the originals. Direct tracing will not correct this. In particular, different plans of the same ship will not match for this reason. This may be the issue that you have discovered.

Finished ( some details are improved or changed):

 
Kind regards and enjoy the pics
Doris

And the best in the end - of course the decoration...
before baking:


after baking and painting ( gold Testors enamel + patina):

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

The hand pumps are modified compared to plans. I made them according to advice and a picture, that sent me Captain KL., who helps me to achieve more realistic result.
http://modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=68385&start=510#p1445380
 
There was a too little space between pumps and the walls/corners (refer the picture from Anatomy of RC).


 
 
Modified handpump:

 

 
 

 
 
 
 


 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I decided to make new and nicer crowns:

And now Royal Caroline...
I have finished another extension before the main cabin and made again the gilded crowns on the doors ( the new ones are better i suppose...  ) and also finished the hand pumps.


 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

Captain and lieutenant:





 
 
And that´s me.....as a 4cm tall figure on the model....

I finished the roof for main cabin. The red colour (vermilion) was used also on Clevely´s portrait of RC.
 


 
 


 

 
The model will have an illumination from small LED diodes, here you can see the beginning of its fitting (it is not complete yet - stern and mast lanterns are missing) and functionality test....

 
 


 

 
 

 

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 120 – Upper Deck Detailing Continued
Posted 1/31/12
 
After making the beams for the quarterdeck and forecastle, they were sized, fit temporarily in place and pinned to their clamps. As mentioned earlier, some of these beams are needed to complete the detailing of the upper deck. The first picture shows all these beams in place, except for those over the waist.
 

 
The next picture shows a closer view of the quarterdeck beams.
 

 
At this stage the beams are set on top of the clamps. No attempt has been made at this stage to score the clamps or set the beams to their final level.
 
The next picture shows the bow area on the upper deck.
 

 
The linings of both hawse holes have now been completed and the breast hooks above and below them have been installed and bolted. The cants on either side of the hawse holes and the mortises in the bolster below the holes have been added. The opposite unplanked side will remain as is.
 
It was finally time to detail the knightheads. This needs to be done to accurately construct the bowsprit step, which fits between the two decks. First the heads were trimmed to the correct height and their tops shaped. The next picture shows the first step in fitting the tricky bowsprit chock.
 

 
The top of the chock will be level with the top of the side. The upper horizontal cut for the chock joint is being done using a small razor saw. A triangular space was then cut out below this saw line from the point where the center line of the bowsprit fits against the knighthead, fore and aft. This point is lower on the aft side. The chock was then shaped by trial and error to fit into this joint, mostly using a disk sander. The hole to fit the bowsprit was then opened up at the correct angle using a round file followed by sandpaper on a dowel until the bowsprit gauge shown below just fit inside.
 
The next pictures show the completed work with the surrogate bowsprit gauge of the correct diameter in the hole.
 
 

 
The next picture shows this gauge still in place after the forecastle deck hooks on either side were installed..
 

 
The opening in the frames for the cathead on the starboard side has been cut out in this picture. The first two beams have been set up to help in fitting the catheads. A fair amount of drafting was required to correctly loft the two catheads. The first cathead prototype was then cut from the resulting patterns using scrap wood. The shape could then be finalized and the patterns refined. The final cathead timbers were then cut from those patterns. These were made from European boxwood. The detailing of their sheaves is shown in the next picture.
 

 
The sheaves were turned from ebony and pins are black monofilament. The end caps will be done later. The next picture shows the two catheads temporarily clamped in place.
 

 
These will get their final fitting and will be installed when the first two deck beams have been permanently fitted, but there is work to do before that, starting with the rest of the decking of the upper deck and its treenailing. The upper deck and between deck detailing will then proceed from fore to aft.
 
 
Ed

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 119 –Upper Deck Details – Quarterdeck Beams
Posted 1/31/12
 
There are a lot of details to attend to on the upper deck. The first picture shows the gooseneck installed on top of the tiller.
 

 
This rides in the circular track, maintaining the height of the tiller and keeping the line in its track. In this picture the port deck planking has been brought out as far as the as yet uninstalled carlings for the half beams on the aftermost five beams.
 
The next picture shows the step of the capstan.
 

 
The black, square object in the center is the cup, or lower bearing for the capstan spindle. It was bored to fit the spindle. It is made of brass, blackened.
 
Installation of the starboard top riders is in progress as shown in the next picture.
 
 
 

 
The waterways had to be notched for these and the spirketing, the inside of the frames and the quarterdeck clamps all finish sanded before installing these. The areas between the ports on this side will not be planked.
 
In order to line the hawse holes and to finish the details on the inside, the outside planking in the bow area needed to be installed.
 

 
Although the port side will be left unplanked, the construction of the head structure rests on top of the planking so the most forward part of the hull is partially planked on this side. This is about the extent of this except for a few strakes to take it up to the top of the frames. The hawse holes have been sized but the linings are not installed yet.
 
The next picture shows the four half beams fit into place at the stern of the quarterdeck.
 
 

 
I don’t know the purpose of this different framing in this area. Perhaps the captains wanted more structure under their dining tables or desks. The carlings are glued in but the beams are still loose to facilitate tying off the tiller line after the wheel is installed.
 
A lot of the upper deck details require the quarterdeck and forecastle beams to be fit – for example, the upper deck bitts, the bowsprit step, the capstan, partitions, etc. Also, I expect to install the wheel on the qdeck and thread it up before completing the upper deck details.
 
So, the next step was to make all the beams for the qdeck and fcsle. Although these are smaller in section than the beams below, they are still in the range of 35 feet long, so I decided to make all but the shortest few as scarphed beams. The next picture shows one of the later steps in the process.
 
 

 
First the tables for the scarphs were cut in wide planks on the milling machine. I believe I described this earlier. They were then glued up using dark glue and tightly clamped. When dry, the piece was clamped in the routing jig as shown above. The making of this jig, which sets the round up of the beams, was described earlier. The same jig was used for all the beams, with the new correct round up being shaped for each set.
 
In the next picture the top curve has been routed and the piece is being marker with the beam depth.
 

 
The beam is then cut off on the scroll saw and the top of the next beam routed to the pattern. After sawing, the bottoms of all the beams were then sanded to the final depth using the thickness sander.
 
The next picture shows some of the beams.
 

 
The scarphs reverse at midship, so they need to shaped for the correct orientation. The next picture shows all 40 beams made, numbered, and laid on the hull.
 

 
Several extras of each type were also made – just in case. It took a couple days to make all these beams. Because the beams are narrower than the earlier beams the machining was slightly different. I used tables that were slightly less deep but the same width and number.
 
Ed

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 118 –Upper Deck – Hawse Holes, Decking
Posted 1/25/12
 
The hawse holes had bit pilot drilled undersize through the hawse timbers some time ago. It was now time to finish these so that area could be detailed inside on the upper deck. The holes needed to be 14 ½” inside diameter after the linings were installed. I decided to make the lining 1 ½” thick. The first picture shows a Castello tube being turned that will be used to make the lining insert.
 

 
The hole was drilled first - an undersized 7/32”. Apart from not having a 0.242” drill bit, a tube with a wall thickness of only 1 ½” (.025”) would probably not survive the turning process, so the hole will be enlarged with a file after the lining is safely glued into the hull. After drilling, the outside of the tube was turned to the final size of 17 ½”.
 
The next picture shows the installation of the tubes.
 

 
The outer tube has been glued into its hole after the hole was carefully enlarged to just fit the tube. The inner tube has been fitted. It will be marked, cut to size and glued in. The next picture shows a lining being enlarged to the ID of 14 ½” using a round file.
 

 
Diameter gauges were turned so the holes could be checked for size and roundness The next picture shows the completed holes on the starboard side.
 

 
The tubes were scored to represent a pieced lining. This picture also shows the through bolts around the bridle port. These include the bolts for the gun tackle and the two spirketing bolts through the sill.
 
The next picture shows the hawse hook being installed on the inside.
 

 
After quite a bit of deliberation I decided to stay with my original plan to omit the inboard planking on the starboard side, except for the structural parts – spirketing and clamps. There will be one piece installed just above the hawse hole to bed the upper deck breast hook, which will be installed shortly, allowing this area to be detailed..
 
The next picture shows some work on the outside of the hull that needed to be done before detailing the hawse holes on the port side.
 

 
The port side of the model will be unplanked to expose the framing, but in order to install the head structure some of the planking will be needed at the bow, because the head rails and cheeks fay onto the planking. In this picture the most forward upper piece of the wale has been installed and a section of the black strake is being clamped above it after boiling to set its curve. This area of planking will be extended to the top of the side. It needs to be installed before the hawse linings on this side. The inside hawse hole has been sized in this picture.
 
While this one-step-at-a-time bending-drying-gluing process was going on, work on the deck planking began, as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The deck planks are 3” thick Castello. They are about 10” wide and they taper down at the stern. The first strake inside of the waterway had to be notched to fit around the top riders. The next picture shows the amount of decking completed so far.
 
 

 
Another strake or two may be added on this side, then all taken the full length of the deck. Then there will be open space in as far as the binding strakes. Those will be installed and the remaining area planked to the centerline. The starboard side will be unplanked.
 
There is quite a bit of detailing to be done on this deck, but some will require the beams of the next level to be fitted; so making the quarterdeck and forecastle beams is now on the schedule.
 
 
Ed

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 117 –Upper Deck – Ironwork, Scuppers, Riders
Posted 1/23/12
 
 
This week all the inboard planking of the upper deck was completed on the port side. I haven’t made a decision on the stuff between the ports on the starboard side yet, so work continued on the port side. The first picture shows some ironwork on one of the ports.
 

 
The tackle eyebolt on the forward side of this port is not yet installed, nor is training eyebolt forward of the ringbolt, but the hole is ready for it. The two spirketing bolts through the through the sill can be seen.
 
The next picture shows some more of this in the area of the captain’s cabins.
 
 

 
There was no fancy side paneling in the cabin area but the inboard planking was supposed to be planed smooth. The carlings for the half beams and the half beams themselves are not installed yet.
 
The next picture shows the area at the forward end on the waist.
 
 

 
Some eyebolts are still missing. Two of the scuppers can be seen in this picture. The next picture shows more of this side.
 

 
All the top riders on the port side have been fit up to the planking and reinstalled. More of the scuppers are visible in this picture.
 
The next picture shows some of the scuppers on the external starboard side.
 

 
On each side there are several 4” scuppers for general deck drainage and two larger 5” scuppers – one for the pump discharge and one all the way forward to drain the manger. These were fashioned from copper tubing to simulate the lead flanges at each end of the pipe. They next picture shows the detail on the unplanked exterior port side.
 

 
The copper tubing was fit into square stock and then notched into scores between the frames. Inside and outside parts were made separately. Since the exposed port side has not been final sanded at this stage the scuppers have not been blackened yet.
 
The last picture shows current progress looking aft.
 

 
 
Ed

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 116 –Upper Deck – Quickwork
Posted 1/17/12
 
The first picture shows some of the last work on the upper deck spirketing installation at the bow.
 
 

 
The piece on the port side is being glued – held in place by pins. The piece on the starboard side was boiled and clamped to set the bend. In this picture it has dried and is ready to be unclamped, sanded and glued in place.
 
The next picture shows work on the stuff between the ports. This work proceeded concurrently.
 

 
This thinner planking is Castello, to give some contrast with the pear spirketing and the quarterdeck clamps. The three strakes are pinned in place for gluing. Only the port side will get this planking.
 
I’m trying to keep up on the outside of the hull. The next picture shows some work done concurrently with the inside work.
 
 

 
In this picture the upper deck lodging knee bolts have been installed in a long fair line on the outside of the frames. Most of the hanging knee bolts were installed earlier. Also, the holes for the spirketing bolts through the sills and the bolt holes for the gun tackle ironwork have been drilled on both sides of the ports – all the way through from the inside.
 
The next picture shows a test of one of the ringbolts on the inside.
 

 
The eyebolt has an inside diameter of 2” and ring 4 1/2'”. These will be inserted halfway through the hole and glued with CA. These are blackened copper. Monofilament will be used to simulate the outside of these bolts.
 
The next picture shows the first group of these fittings installed.
 
 

 
The sequence here was to install the treenails, fully sand the planking, fit and re-install the topriders, then install the ironwork. I am doing this one section at a time, working forward – to break up the monotony of treenailing. This picture also gives a good view of the two spirketing bolts through the sill.
 
The next picture shows the area of the upper deck finished so far.
 
 

 
And the next picture shows the work forward of this – the treenailing.
 

 
These have yet to be leveled off and sanded. In doing these I have to remember which holes will get bolts and leave out the nails. I’ve had to redrill a few so far. In this picture the waterway has been cut to receive the riders. Also note the step up from the end of the quarterdeck clamp to the string in the waist, just where the Qdeck ends.
 
A few more days work should see the end of the inboard planking on this deck.
 
Ed

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 115 –Upper Deck Waterways, Spirketing
Posted 1/10/12
 
 
After the last posting, all of the remaining ledges of the upper deck were installed. The framing of the deck was then leveled out where needed and the filling pieces at the side were pared down level with the tops of the deck beams. The next step was to install the waterways. In the next picture stock is being shaped to make these.
 
 

 
The waterway is thicker under the first strake of spirketing, tapering down in a curve to the thickness of the deck planking. The machining of this shape was done in two steps. First the concave curve was cut with a round ended milling cutter. Then the second cut was made to level the end that would abut the deck planks. The simple jig in the picture was made to guide the pieces through the cutter.
 
The next picture shows one of the forward, curved pieces of waterway being fit.
 
 

 
The flat piece of Castello was shaped to fit the curve of the frames using a disk sander. For curved pieces like this I do not bother with card forms or spiling. The shape was roughly drawn on a rectangular piece of wood and then progressively sanded to shape until a tight fit was obtained. The width of the piece was the marked with a small compass, cut on the scroll saw, then sanded to shape. A different jig was used to machine these curved pieces.
 
The next picture shows the waterways installed.
 
 
 

 
This picture also shows the installation of all the ledges. On the starboard side, the joints are cut, but the actual ledges are left out for visibility into the lower decks on that side.
 
Next is another picture taken further aft.
 
 

 
The top riders were all removed before installing the waterways. The waterways will have to be cut out to permit these to be installed later. This seemed easier than trying to fit the waterways and the rest of the interior planking behind the riders.
 
Before moving to the spirketing, the port gunport linings had to be installed. The next picture shows a couple of these after the linings were faired down with 120-grit paper.
 

 
There is a bit of lens distortion here which makes the line of these last three ports appear humped. The outside of these port frames will be finish sanded later, since they will be left exposed. The notches in the frames below the ports are the openings for the lower deck scuttles.
 
The next picture shows the spirketing on the port side mostly installed.
 

 
This comes up to the tops of the port sills and its upper edge is dubbed off to be horizontal at the height of the linings. The large block is holding one of the guy wires that keep the hull in place. These were removed to work on this in that area, then replaced.
 
The next picture is a closer view of the aft sections of spirketing being installed on the starboard side.
 

 
The spirketing on the lower deck is installed with anchor stock configuration. This was spelled out specifically in the three contracts from the Naiad period that I am using. This was not specified in any of those for the upper deck, so these are being installed as straight planks. The pins are forced through slightly undersized hole using pliers to hold them in place when gluing. The tops of the planks were dubbed off using a Stanley number 93 plane with the stock held in a wide vise.
 
The last picture shows the run of spirketing on the port side, pinned and glued in place.
 

 
While these pictures were being taken, the curved section at the bow was being clamped to shape in place after boiling.
 
The next step will be to plank between the ports on the port side only. The top riders can then be reinstalled.
 
 
 
Ed

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 114 –Upper Deck Main Partners
Posted 12/31/11
 
 
In the last post the central beam and beam arms were installed. The next step was to fit the main mast partners, the main hatchway carlings and hatchway details. The first picture shows this area.
 
 

 
The hatchway coamings and headledges for the main hatch and main companionway, including the steps, are installed in this picture. Also, the cross chocks of the partners are set into the rabbets in the large sized partner carlings, which are fitted but not glued. At this stage only the fore and aft chocks are glued to to the carlings to allow the assembly to be removed to the bench for detailing. The cross chocks around the pump casing have been cut to fit but are loose at this stage.
 
The next picture shows the assembly removed for further work.
 

 
In this picture the central cross chock and fillers on the sides of the openings have been glued in. The outline of the corner chocks has been marked out and one of these is set over its location so the rabbet lines for it can be marked. Rabbets were then let down and the cross chocks inserted. These are made in two parts, top and bottom, to avoid having to cut rabbets in these very small pieces.
 
The finished assembly is shown below.
 

 
The cross chock section just aft of the openings for the pump casings is still loose in this picture, to allow the assembly to fit over the casings. In the next picture the installation is complete.
 
 

 
The four Cole pump casings are now permanently glued on to pins in the well and all the sections of the cross chocks and the whole assembly is glued in. The two elm tree pump casings, for some reason are too short, so these will be replaced. The two pump carlings, outside of the partners, are also installed in this picture.
 
The next picture shows some preparatory work being done to get ready for the pump cisterns.
 
 

 
In this picture the cross piece of boxwood has been fitted around the pump casings. This will then be slit into two pieces that will then be edge glued to form the floors of the two cisterns.
 
The next picture shows the two pieces joined and fit over the casings.
 
 

 
The blank for the cistern floors has been made in one piece to help assure that the two cisterns are precisely aligned and not affected by misalignment of the four casings or due to differences in the cutouts. The next step will be to rip this piece down to the bottom width of the cisterns then separate it into the two separate floors. I do not expect the cisterns to be watertight.
 
The last picture shows the state of the upper deck on the last day before New Years eve 2011.
 
 

 
The thread on the centerline has been a big help in keeping things centered on this deck. All the upper deck carlings are installed at this stage. The long strips of Castello lying on the deck are blanks for the waterways. These will be milled and installed on both sides as was done on the lower deck. The inside planking of the port side can then begin.
 
Happy New Year everyone.
 
Ed

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 113 – The Last Upper Deck Beam
Posted 12/19/11
 
The last beam was the most complex and most interesting to install, but first two pictures on the lower deck – the last opportunity to put the little camera into the gap between beams.
 

 
Depth of field isn’t great, of course. This is looking aft on the lower deck, giving a nice view of the wing transom knee, sleepers and sternson knee. The rope is waiting to be threaded up through the wheel and back through the tiller sweep.
 

 
Port side looking forward. The small forest of pillars to the right, between the bitt pins, supports the fireplace.
 
Finally, the last beam.
 

 
This beam, number 16, is just aft of the main hatch and just forward of the main mast partners, so it is quite a distance from its two neighbors (Beam 15 is still out in this picture.) The beam is reinforced with two sets of beam arms just like its lower deck counterpart. The beam could not be prefabricated with its arms. The problem is illustrated in the picture. Getting this beam in even by itself required some deflection because of the tapering in of the sides. There was no way it could be set with even one of the arms attached – well, maybe one.
 
There are a variety of wood and iron knees used in this assembly and they will be described below. We do not know exactly how these were done on the actual Naiad, so the mix is speculative. Getting a workable sequence for fitting all these knees and assembling the beam in place was an interesting problem.
 
The first step was to make the beam arms and the tabled scarphs to the main beam. The picture below shows the basic pieces.
 
 

 
After cutting the basic shapes of the arms, the scarphs were marked out while the pieces were fit in place on the model – not from this drawing. The scarph tables were all cut manually. One of the steps is shown in the next picture.
 
 

 
The joint lines were first cut with a razor saw, then pared out with the chisel, then dressed with a file. I could have done these on the mill, but this way is easy and avoids set up on the mill
 
In the next picture, wood hanging knees are being glued to the ends of the beam.
 
 

 
The beam is pinned but not glued. It was then removed to level the tops of the knees and install the hanging knee bolts through the beam. It was then permanently glued in and its pillar installed. The lodging knees for this beam are iron and will be shown later.
 
The beam arms were then pinned in place so the mortises for the carlings could be marked out as shown in the next picture.
 

 
A long strip of carling stock is being used to mark the mortises and assure the overall line of carlings is straight. The mortises will then be chiseled out on the bench.
 
The next picture shows the wood lodging knees on the forward arms being glued to the arms.
 

 
The arms are only pinned in this picture. The hanging knees for these forward arms are iron.
 
The next picture shows an iron lodging knee for the main beam being installed.
 

 
The iron (copper) knee is clamped to the beam. The hole for the first bolt has been drilled and the bolt is being forced to the bottom of the hole with pliers in this picture. It will then be cut off above the surface of the knee and hammered in, expanding the head. The other bolts will then be installed including one into the frames. The fore and aft arm of this knee is short because there is a rider to be installed just forward of the beam.
 
The next picture shows an aft arm assembly about to be installed.
 

 
This arm (upside down) has two iron knees that have just been blackened after bolting. The wood is still wet from the sulfur solution being washed off.
 
The next picture shows a beam arm on the port side being glued in place.
 
 

 
These were done one at a time with their knees installed. With both arms permanently fixed, the bolts through the beam were installed through holes drilled earlier. Bolts were then also installed in all the iron knees. Holes were predrilled for these while the pieces were still removable.
 
The last picture shows the completed beam installation.
 
 

 
The outer tiers of carlings, except for one piece, have been installed in this picture. All the upper deck beams are now installed.
 
Time to take a Christmas break and ponder the next move.
 
Best wishes to all for the holidays!
 
Ed

Thank you Pat, Mark and Crackers.
 
 
Compared to the bar pins, quite an easy one - the Capstan Pawls. These prevent the capstan from turning back, they were very simple things that were pushed into place with the foot of the sailor nearest to them. Later ships had more complex arrangements.
 
These were made from a piece of 1/16" square brass, filed down to 1/32" for most of their length - they step up to full height on the end that locks into the capstan whelps. They are held in place with a 3/4" bolt. Note how one pawl locks into place whilst the other is almost halfway across a whelp - this gave them two bites with a smaller rotation between.
 
I've also made the two for the upper capstan with these.
 


 
That concludes the work on the capstans for now - all that's left is to fit them, which I'll do after I've placed the Guns in this area (I'm still waiting on the barrels before I can start on them).
 
Next job will be the Rudder and associated works.
 
  Danny

Hello every one and thank you very much. Sorry about not getting back to you sooner. Hi Guy. Seems my log is a whole lot shorter sir and seems that I didn't put in any photo's of building up the stern dead wood. I do have photos showing the templates of the parts and pieces and how her stern deadwood was mounted in a groove that was milled in to the last piece of her keel. there was a male part to this cut on to the bottom of the dead wood itself to help me align this so it would be center on her keel. Hope you enjoy them sir. Seems I just may have to look and see what other items I may of missed in rebuilding her log and thanks Guy for letting me know about this one.

OK, I took Druxey's challenge after all - here's a prototype REPRESENTATION of a Bar Pin and "Chain" which took me about half an hour to make. I used 0.2mm (blackened) copper wire wrapped around a 0.25mm drill bit for the "chain", and made two "eyebolts" from the same wire :
 


 
And here's an approximation of how it looks by the naked eye :
 

 
I'm going to do another one using a simplified method (no actual Pin and Bolt, just one curled wire). If I can get it down to 5 minutes each and they look OK I'll do all 15. Stay tuned .
 
  Danny

Hi everyone,
 
Work has kept me from the shipyard; I wish it was the other way around...
 
Here are the gratings and coamings completed. The Bellona has a very unusual serpentine curve to the upper side of the gratings and coamings. I made sanding blocks to accomplish this. The first photos show how I cut the template from thin plywood, then glued this to the end of a maple block. I then use a piloting bit on the router table to cut the profile all along the length of the block. I then rubber cemented sand paper to the surface, with some guide bars to keep the hatch/coaming in the center of the jig. I did the hatches and coaming separately, to get them down to size, and then I sanded them with the grating in the coaming frame so they would be exactly the same.
 
The coaming ends are rounded, but only above the level of the deck planking. To arrange this, I used a blank of wood the thickness of the decking as a spacer to use my chisel to cut the coamings at the right height. A file rounded them off nicely. I used masking tape and scored lines to keep the black shoe polish off the square corners. When the decking comes in, it should be a very nice fit.
 
I am showing a temporary jig for the main mast partners, to make sure everything fits and the mast rakes at the right angle, before constructing the partners.
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark

That will all depend on you budget and what you want out of it.
I have seen some for around 100 dollars us that will do what you want and a descent job....and I have seen them on the internet for over 2,000 dollars us 
 
The 20 inch delta was $499.99 us delivered to my door. Has an air blower for the dust, a worklight mounted on the side, blade storage, toolless blade change, stand came with it and a very heavy cast iron table.
and a very nice tension adjustment right on top.
 
So get what you want the first time....after seeing some of your post in other threads (mill and such) you will do your research and find one right for you.
 
Good luck   
 
PS  you can see the 20 inch delta here  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/788-which-scrollsaw/page-3
 
Any question just holler