druxey

Part 4.
 
I have read and returned to the University of Western Ontario Library, a book written by Alan R.Young,
a professor at Acadia University, who critiqued Thomas Heywood's book written in 1637 describing
The Sovereign of The Seas.  Thomas Heywood was a playwright and had been annually responsible for the creation of successive Lord Mayors' pageants in London.  A pageant consisted of a play presented with actors on moving carts with stage settings which were conveyed through the streets for the populous to
view.  The sets sometimes consisted of elaborate carvings, and Thomas Heywood worked with
The Christmas brothers, John and Mathias, who had been appointed Naval Carvers in 1634, in producing the pageants.  Charles I appointed Heywood as the designer of all of the carvings and adornments on The Sovereign of The Seas, and Heywood used the Christmas brothers to carve them.  Heywood wrote his book,  A true description of His Majesty's Royall Ship called The Sovereign of The Seas built in Wolwitch in Kent 1637, and had it published to coincide with the launch of the Sovereign on September 25, 1637.  In it he starts with some poetry written by his good friend Shackerley Marmion and spends a great deal of time talking about nautical history going back to Noah's Ark and Jason's Argo.  Eventually, he describes the Sovereign of The Seas, including rather detailed descriptions of the carvings and their meanings.  It becomes clear when he describes the stern, that the adornments are those shown in the Portrait of Peter Pett and The Sovereign of The Seas which I wrote about in my earlier e-mails.  He describes Victory with Jason on her right and Hercules on her left. He also describes the carvings at the beakhead and on her hull in great detail.
 
In a later printing of the booklet, Heywood also makes mention of the crew of The Sovereign and also mentions that Peter Pett, the master builder had the grandeur of the Sovereign "graved in a portrait by the excellent artist Mr. John Paine, dwelling near the posterne gate neere unto Tower-hill, of whose excellent skill as well in drawing and painting, as his Art in graving, I am not able to give Character answerable unto his merit".
 
The conclusion would appear to be that the kit by Mantua depicts the stern in a different light than the Payne engraving or the Portrait in Greenwich.  Perhaps it was meant to emulate the Sovereign after one of her re-builds.  At any rate, I have decided to modify the kit and will try to build the stern as close to the portrait as I can.  It may be that with the limited material available on this ship, that a truly accurate depiction of her may not be possible. I think that credit must go to Mantua for providing a model of this great ship regardless of its historical accuracy.
 
More to follow.........
 
Bill

Part 2.
 
Well, I have finished reading A Portrait of Peter Pett and The Sovereign of The Seas, and it must go back to its rightful home in a day or two.  Just enough time to review a few parts before it parts company with me. The answers to the five questions appear to be answered if you believe the author. Here goes.
 
1. What is the ship?
 
It is pretty much a certainty that the ship in the portrait is the Sovereign.   Thomas Heywood, the playwright and artist who was appointed by Charles I to conceive the details of the ornamentation.  Heywood wrote a book called "A True Description of His Majesties Royall Ship, Built this Year 1637 at Wool-Wich in Kent; to the glory of our English Nation and not paralleled in the whole Christian World".  It was released on September 7th, 1637, just prior to the expected official launch of the Sovereign. In the book he describes the decorations of the ship and the stern description reflects the portrait.  It is significant to mention that the Sovereign was the first one hundred gun ship, and that it was twice the size of anything built to that date. A typical ship of that day was forty guns and could be built at a cost of 5,500 to 6,500 pounds.  The Sovereign cost 65,586 pounds, 16 shillings and 9 1/2 pence.  Clearly, a new standard in size and cost.
 
2. Who painted the picture? ( The Portrait in the National Maritime Museum in Greenwich)
 
All evidence in the book points to Van De Velde, the Elder, a Dutch marine painter who was in England with his son at the time in question.  The Elder Van De Velde was not a portrait painter, but rather a painter of ships.  His son, had produced a self portrait and could have painted the image of Peter Pett.  You are left with the impression that it was a joint effort of the father and son.
 
3. Who is the man portrayed?
 
By the calipers held in the right hand, it was felt that the man in the portrait was the architect or builder of the ship. The creator of the Sovereign was Phineas Pett (1570-1647).  In his autobiography, he details how Charles approached him to build the great ship.  However, the sitter is not Phineas Pett. If so, he would have been sixty seven years old at the sitting, and the man in the portrait is clearly much younger. The summation is that it must have been his son, Peter Pett the Great.
 
4. When was the picture painted?
 
It is apparent by the detail show of the stern, that the painter took a great deal of time to prepare for its painting.  It would follow that he must have had some time in which to observe the ship. The logical times that this would be possible are:
a. - 1637-1638 at the conclusion of building operations
b. - The first re-building in 1659-1660
c.  - The second re-building in 1685.
 
Both of the Van De Veldes were in England in at the time of the first and second re-building, and it is deemed to be Van De Velde the Elder as painting the ship, the Younger, Peter Pett, and the time as the first re-building in 1660.
 
5. What is the relationship to the painting in the National Portrait Gallery in London?
 
The book surmises that the painting in the National Gallery was a copy attributed to William Dobson.  The book reveals that many of the details in the National Portrait Gallery version are not in keeping with accurate naval details and hence is a copy of the original in Greenwich.
 
These, briefly, are the conclusions that this book comes to regarding the two portraits. For my purposes, the book has aided me in getting a more complete picture of the ship I am modeling, the time it was built in, and has changed my view of how to proceed with her.  I intend to follow up on articles published in the Mariners Mirror that comment on this book and will hold my conclusions until I have exhausted all available materials.  I have simplified the answers to the above questions, and the book contains much more detail to support its conclusions. I would recommend that if you are intending to build SOS, you try to read this book and any other references to satisfy yourself of the direction you want to go in modeling her. I have very nearly decided to change the stern ornamentation and stern galleries on my model to more closely resemble the depiction on the painting.  My reasoning is, that the portrait was painted in the time of the ship, and must resemble her, at least in the eyes of the painter, in a more accurate way than the pictures shown on the Mantua kit box.  I may be wrong, but that is my conclusion.
 
 
More to follow......................
Regards,
Bill

Sometimes line that is stiff or has 'memory' and loosens can be tamed with a wet brush. Try that on your clove hitches.

I could have added to the other thread I suppose but it wasn't my serving machine.
 
After getting frustrated with the tiny bit of serving that I did yesterday I opted to make a tool that was a little flexible in its uses.
Raiding the scrap boxes for wood and metal after doodling while having the early morning coffee I came up with a design that I hope will serve me well enough.
 
I found a nice piece of Fiddle-back figured  Maple for the base, a short length of 3/8 anodized aluminum tube, some scraps of Ebony.
 

 
The sliding maple blocks on the aluminum tube were made from salvaged maple I found at the dump.a while back.
 

 
I cut a channel in the block first with a 3/8 end mill then glued in a block that was 1/64th thinner to the back side this was in order to allow it to slide and to act as the base for the threads for the locking thumb screws. I shaped the ebony just because I could.
 

 
I mounted everything on a single pedestal so that I could slide them off and put on different clamps or devices yet to be imagined. I also thought I was being original until I noticed that a lot of other fine builder had used sewing bobbins for the thread.
 
That universal mind just keeps cropping up.
 
The end caps in the aluminum tube are ebony.
 

 
I used Dafi's method of clamping the rope in the rotating holder just simple tapered wedges. the rotators are turned from a length of 3/8 brass hex stock.and are a snug fit into the small shouldered ball races that a friend gave me, he was a helicopter mechanic, and the bearings get replaced after so many hours. I have hundreds of them all different small sizes. If anyone needs a couple let me know.
 
The thumbscrews were turned from some brass pinion stock that I have had lying around for years and since I do not have a knurling tool this was the next best thing. they are threaded 4x40
 
The rod for the bobbin was set so that the bobbin could just turn freely and with a layer or two of card slid under to add tension. It can also just slide off.  I did not get into the complexity of gearing as the hex rotators turn freely enough.
 

 
A clamping arrangement will be added to the tops of the sliders for doing the seizing of the shrouds around the deadeyes.  That's it for now.
 
Michael
 
 
 
 
 
 

At the dead flat is an interesting knee combination:  the opposed lodging knees.  This is a combination of two knees:  a “normal” lodging knee and what I will call a bent knee because it is obviously bent.  This is tricky to make.  The knee itself is angled down off the beam so it can duck under the other lodging knee.  Then there is an additional buckle in the hull arm so it can stay close to the hull arm of the “normal” lodging knee as it passes below it.  There are no ledges mortised in to it for obvious reasons.
 
 
 
The beam arms are located between on the fore side of beam 11.  These timbers are 7” deep and are mortised into beam 11.  Their shape follows the round-up of the beam.  I found it easiest to use an 8” timber and give it a final shaping after it had been temporarily secured to the surrounding structures. 
 
     
 
The main hatch carlings abut the medial end of the beam arms.  The outside ledges on either side of the beam arm are wider.  There is an iron knee between the fore end of the beam arm and the hull.  This lies below the level of the deck.  The fore-and-aft arm of the iron knee is hidden underneath the packing piece (a small length of wood between the beam arm and beam 10).  I did not have any appropriate brass on hand so I made my “iron” knee from boxwood and painted it black.  You can barely see it in the last two pictures.
 
     

Thanks guys. Sure Bob, although I haven't found a safe place yet. .. Piet, the beams are cut on a scroll saw and sanded using a simple jig. I still have some pictures somewhere in my archive. Of course the mortices are hand cut 
 
That said, I had to take out the lathe to make the mast wedge. I used French Box which is a real treat to turn on a lathe. 
 

 
The mast step is hold in place with wedges

 
Everything was dry fitted, this is becoming a cramped part of the ship and this is even without the cisterns 


The holes in the mast partner are cut using chisels and files



 
Remco

A small update at last.  I've been having some computer problems (Windows died) but all seems well now - that's why this update is a bit late.
 
Last Wednesday at the museum I got a little done, but spent most of my time talking to visitors and discussing the museum with one of the staff, rsther than in modelling.  Never mind - there's always next time!
 
Most of the hardware in now fitted to the mast and I must say I'm rather pleased with the overall look.  Everything is just sitting the loose at the moment.  Hopefully I can get a bit of serious rigging done next time I'm in.
 
John
 

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797Part 88 – Lower Deck – Main Wale
 
It has been over a week since the last post due to another project that had taken over the shipyard, but there has been some progress in a few areas. To finish off the replacement of the stem pieces and the knee of the head described in the last part, some small tasks remained. The picture below shows the new timbers with the bolting for the knee of the head now installed.
 

 
Having the knee and the forward part of the keel at their correct breadth was a major step forward, in spite of the backward steps needed to get there. This picture also shows one of the new horseshoe plates, which were installed this week. The next picture shows the other one.
 

 
These plates were done pretty much as before, being inset into the timbers. The shapes are slightly different compliments of Mr. Steel’s drawings, which I did not have when the first ones were done.
 
The next picture is another view of all this.
 

 
This shows the new keel and false keel sections replaced almost back to the left side of the picture. This was taken after the replaced area was sanded, polished up and given a coat of the wax finish.
 
Late this week I started on the main wale, the first new work in some time on the exterior of the hull. In the next picture the lower edge of the wale has been delineated with blue tape and the upper line is being marked off.
 

 
The wale consists of four strakes of 6 inch thick planking. It is 3 feet 9 inches wide. There are two bands of top and butt planking with a straight joint line between them
 
The next picture shows the first piece of pear top and butt being clamped in place after boiling and bending to the curve of the hull.
 
 

 
The top and butt planks – two can be seen in the picture above – were cut to shape on the circular saw using to tapered ripping jigs made from thin wood to match the two angles needed. These worked well on the interior planking so were used here as well. The pieces are made to a standard length of about 25 feet. Being all the same length makes them easier to fit up, even though on the original the lengths varied slightly – too little to matter.
 
 
After drying overnight the first piece was installed earlier today and is shown in the next picture.
 

 
Before gluing, the piece was sanded to smooth it out after the boiled water treatment. This also serves to sand off the raised fibers from the water so that water finishes can be applied without further grain raising. The piece was then given a first blackening coat using diluted acrylic ink, actually diluted liquid artist color. This will seal the surface and provide a base. There will be more sanding done on this and additional coats will be required. The black in the acrylic color is carbon black, so it will never fade. Also, once the acrylic has dried it is insoluble, so it cannot leach into surrounding parts. I would liked to have used ebony for this, but could never find a way to get full strength in the glue joints with it or to get it to bend easily. I finally gave up.
 
It may seem odd to install the upper piece of the bottom band first, but the first piece in the lower strake is quite short and the longer piece is easier to get on the correct line. The pieces below this one will be done next, and then I will begin on the upper strakes, progressing aft with the full width – at least that’s the current plan.
 
The next picture shows two of these next pieces clamped for bending.
 

 
The four-inch Jorgensen clamps in this picture look huge. They are only needed for their reach. I clearly need some new miniature clamps with a deep throat. I made a few earlier but they do not work well where strong pressure is needed.
 
All the waiting around for pieces to dry has permitted me to continue on the finishing up of the lower deck. The next picture shows recent work done on the port side.
 

 
The wooden standard knees forward of the cabins have all been installed but still need bolts. Baseboards that will anchor the partitions on this deck are also installed. Against the side are six of the officer’s cabins each with a 26” doorway. They will each also feature a scuttle through the side for ventilation and light. The baseboard slanting to the aft side of the fish room hatch is for the wardroom partition. There will be double doors in this. The wardroom occupied the full width between the cabins from this partition aft. The small partition aft of the main hatch is for the captain’s pantry.
 
It will soon be possible to start on the upper deck beams.
 
 
 
Ed

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 87 – Remedial Work
Posted 7/4/11
 
I have been very grateful for all the wonderful comments I’ve had on the Naiad project. It’s been very flattering. I feel like a degree of realism needs to be injected, to keep me grounded, so…..
 
For a long time now I have wanted to do something about the knee of the head and the lower stem. I have not really been satisfied with the work I did in this area - way back in the beginning of the project. The problem has been a number of minor imperfections, no one of which would lead me to do the remedial work described in this part, but taken together, I decided they warranted some correction. This would be the last opportunity to do it, as I am getting ready to start the external planking on the starboard side.
 
The picture below was taken last fall.
 

 
Some of the problems are visible in this picture. The keel and the base of the stem are under width. The knee of the head is also too narrow at the base and the forward edge has become too rounded with various sanding steps. Also, the pieces of the upper knee are not quite right. I had copied White, from his book Diana, on the piecing of the knee. Diana was unusual in that she had four transverse head timbers. Naiad and most other frigates had three. This caused the gammoning slot to be in an odd place relative to the knee joints. Also, White has no horizontal gammoning piece on his plan. This can be seen missing just below the standard gammoning knee in the above picture. I had still not gotten around to opening up the slot in this picture. There was also accident damage – gouges - on the lower parts.
 
I felt all this was inconsistent with the general quality of the model, so I decided to replace the knee of the head, the lower stem. This required replacing the first section of the keel and false keel, with the boxing joint and the horseshoe plate.
 
So, the next step was…….
 

 
I’m not going to show all the gory details – and there were some. I think the above picture gives some idea of what was involved. The old pieces lying about were cut off with a saw; then the joining face to the apron was pared back with chisels and filed clean. I decided to do this without removing the ribbands, which made the work a bit more difficult. One ribband was broken.
 
The next picture shows the forward section of the keel being glued into place with the new boxing joint.
 

 
By now both pieces of the lower stem were installed. The pins in the picture were cut short and driven all the way in to hold the pieces tight for gluing. They were then pulled out. The forward face of the lower stem still needs finishing off in this picture.
 
In the next picture the gripe area of the knee has been installed and the new upper part of the knee is being fit to the upper stem.
 

 
In the next picture the lower part of the knee is installed and the upper assembly is being glued.
 

 
The pin on the scarph of the lower section has a spacer so it can be driven all the way in and later removed without damaging the forward face of the knee. The ship was secured in an aligned position for this step and the final position of the upper knee checked with a triangle for centering and projection.
 
The last picture shows Naiad sporting her new front end.
 

 
When this point was reached I was both relieved and quite happy. Everything about this new installation is better. Now I can move on to the next stage without regrets over compromises.
 
This build log has started to feel like a clinic on fixing mistakes. I apologize for that. It would be much better to get it right the first time, but…. I guess it’s the final result that matters. Rework can be fun.
 
 
Ed

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 86 – Lower Deck Binding Strakes 2
 
 
 
In the last part, the method I used to install the binding strakes - the second and third strakes outside the main hatch coamings - was not correct. I had scored down the beams to take the thicker planks. Most of us I believe, now agree that the planks themselves were more likely scored to fit over the beams. Since I had already scored all the beams on both sides, I decided to install the strakes their full length on both sides. This gives the installation the correct appearance. The full lengths of the binding strakes, installed on both sides of the lower deck are shown below.
 

 
I had not intended to install any planking on the starboard side, but could not leave the (probably) incorrect scores in the beams exposed. This picture shows the full extent of the lower deck planking that will be installed.
 
The next picture shows the planking in the area between the main and fore hatches.
 

 
In this picture the outside planks toward the bottom of the picture, the port side, have just been treenailed and the area is wet from washing off the glue. The central plank is 5 inches thick and the remaining 4 strakes inside the main hatch coamings are 4 inches thick. All these rest on the beams and ledges, so they step up twice toward the center. The first strake outside the main hatch is 3” thick as is the rest of the deck planking, except for the next two, which are the binding strakes. These are 4” thick and are “let-down” on the beams and ledges to be flush at the top with the 3 inch planking. These were thought to be important structurally, so they are fastened with two short bolts on each beam plus one treenail in each ledge. The boltse are simulated on the model with black monofilament and standout from the tree nails in the above picture. Although these bolts were probably counter bored and covered with wood or caulking on the real ship, I wanted to illustrate the different fasteners as I have generally done, so I made them show as iron.
 
In the next picture, treenails are being installed in the planking butt ends at the main hatch.
 
 

 
These are .025 inch bamboo. A slightly oversized hole is drilled, the end of the bamboo rod is dipped in dark glue, inserted in the hole, grabbed with the diagonal cutters, pushed all the way in, then clipped off. A slant cut on the end of the rod is then made with a razor blade and the process repeated – endlessly it seems. Every ten or so, the glue is washed off with clean water on a brush. When dry, the ends are pared off with a crank handled chisel. The deck is then filed flat and sanded.
 
The next picture shows this area after this was done.
 

 
This area and the open beams outside it toward the bottom of the picture have been given some finish. When this dries it will be somewhat lighter and duller. The binding strakes on the starboard side have only their bolts installed. They still require treenails in between over the non-existent ledges, which were left off to better see the area below.
 
The last picture just shows the current state toward the bow.
 

 
The waxed area shows quite a contrast with the sanded decking, but this will lighten up when the turpentine evaporates. Areas that still need work done, like the cabin partitions and the standard knees are left unfinished until that is done but I like to get some finish on areas that are complete to protect the wood from staining and also because it gets harder to reach areas later.
 
Thanks for all your input on this question. I wish I had not scored the starboard beams but adding the planks on that side to cover them is an acceptable solution.
 
 
Ed

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 84 – Lower Deck Hatchways
Posted 6/26/11
 
In the last episode the last of the clamps and spirketing was being installed at the bow. As shown in the first picture, this work was completed and the hook between the upper and lower decks has been installed.
 

 
This picture also shows the coamings and head ledges installed around the fore hatch and the ladder way to the fore platform. The next picture shows a closer view of the bow from above. Its getting harder to see down into the magazine.
 

 
The heavy 5 inch thick central plank has been installed between hatchways as they are installed. This plank was of heavier thickness to take the pillars, which would help support the upper deck beams.
 
The next picture shows the hatchways around the main mast partners – the main hatch and the aft hatch.
 
 

 
It took me some time to get the hang of the joinery on these coamings and head ledges. The coamings run fore and aft, rest on carlings and are rabbeted to take the grating ledges. Their ends are lapped over the ends of the head ledges, which have no rabbet and the lap joint is slanted down like a half dovetail. All four are beveled on the outside faces and will eventually get rounded off on their corners. I wasted some wood before getting these to come out right.
 
The next picture shows the ladderway to the stewards room and the after magazine and the hatchway over the fish room hatch.
 
 

 
As these were installed, the planking between them was installed. I mentioned the thick center plank above. The next strakes to the outside of the coamings are 1 inch less but still 1 inch thicker than the 3 inch plank outside the coamings. I still have to decide how to handle the binding strakes also 1 inch thicker but let down into the beams and ledges so they are flat with the rest of thee deck.
 
The next picture shows the center planking toward the stern and the hatch to the bread room.
 

 
This picture also shows the mizzen step.
 
The last two pictures show the work around the main mast partners, the pump shafts and the hatchways.
 

 
Once the heavier planking between hatches is installed (on the port side only) the next strake out, a 3 inch plank, will be installed, then some undecided treatment of the binding strake. That will pretty much conclude the decking at this level.
 
 

 
I also need to decide which of the hatches on this deck will get gratings.
 
All of the above work still needs treenailing and perhaps some bolts.
 
 
Ed

... continue ...
After pricipal beam's placing, here are the longitudinal beams. They lay on other beams, crossing them. In this way, the upper structure can be quite strenght to support the whole aft deck without risks for the Hansa ship's crew.
 
Cheers
Alex

Thanks guys. Druxey, the cleats aren't fixed yet, I'll first make the lashings, but this needs to wait until the stays are in place.  Probably some years from now........I'll make the cleats for the foremast a little smaller, I found them a bit on the large side too. As the masts are now finished to a point I'm going to store them it's time to return to the hull. Remember I started making the mast so I could position the mast partners. What a fun few months of deviation from the path this has been, can't wait to return to the mast. Maybe as a side project somewhere down the road. 
 
Now it's back to deck building. Plenty of challenges here to like this beam with all the mortices.....
 

 

 
Remco

Good day folks,
 
Well, what can be said other than that it is so sad that all the beautiful input has been lost from this site. There were so many wonderful models and a wealth of information for all to share. Now is the time for us all to rebuild the site together.
 
Today I will just post a photo of the stern of the Sovereign as she sits today while I consider if it is possible to revive the log as it previously was.
 
 

 
 
More to folllow...........
 
Regards,
Bill

Floyd,  do not despair. Planking is a challenge for most people.  The best way is to read the tutorials and practice.  Do not be afraid of making a mistake or redoing a section.  As one of my club members said at a recent planking demonstration.  The easiest way to learn is to just go for it and learn from your mistakes.  Every hull is different but the principals are all the same.
David B

Sorry to hear of your rodent problem, Dan. Hopefully the air has cleared by now. And congratulations for completing the re-posting of your log. Soon the memories of the Great Crash of '13 will be distant ones, to be recalled like an old campaigner over a relaxing glass of your favorite beverage!

I managed to get one of the chainplates roughly shaped today it is mostly tapered with a parallel section below the spacing block. I thought a decorative flourish works for the bottoms.
 

 

 

 
The screws are 1 inch long 4x40 brass machine screw.I need to reshape the head to get rid of the slots.
 
Most of the day was used up collecting some firewood and helping a friend move some steers and Heifers.
 
Michael

Bob thanks for those kind words. here is a link to a one man art show I had a few years ago.
http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/library/artshow%20dec%2005?page=1
 
David Thanks for dropping by.
 
A long time ago I was given a block of Lignum Vitea, it is tough as nails but slippery, due to the oils within the structure of the wood.
 
First I made a dowel
 

 
Then indexing along I cut the grooves for the shrouds and lower brackets.
 

 
Then a different form tool to round the edges
 

 
there is no sanding the finish is just from the tool.
 

 
Next the blank was cut into smaller blanks with a jewelers.
 

 
Then a small brass split chuck was made to hold the rough blanks
 

 
The shaping tool for the face
 

 
First one
 

 
I am really impressed with the way this wood turns on the lathe.
 

 

 
Now I need to sort out a jig to drill the holes. That rope does look like old hemp rope.
 
Michael

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 83 – Deck clamps Continued
Posted 6/22/11
 
 
The deck clamps for the top decks have now been installed and treenailed.  This all took quite a long time but now it is done and the frames are now firmly and permanently supported up to the topsides.  The pictures below show the last steps of clamps and spirketing installation..
 
The first picture shows the last pieces being shaped and glued in place at the forward end, which is the most difficult part of this work because of the curves and twists.
 

 
Below is another view of that which also shows the decking in progress at the forward end.
 

 
Just a few more short strakes of deck planking are needed at the bow on the starboard side.  There will be bands installed in the center, but none installed on the port side
 
Below is a more complete view.
 

 
This view also shows the temporary rough tree rail on the starboard side installed.  The wet area on the upper deck clamp toward the bow is from treenail glue being washed off.
 
The next picture shows a closer view of the treenailing in progress on the side planking and the deck.
 

 
The treenails are 1.5” (.025”) and are drawn from bamboo.  I have been trying out bamboo skewer material for this but have gone back to my previous method using old bamboo garden stakes.  These are well dried out and much harder than those made from skewers.  They are also somewhat darker.  All the ones in this picture are made from skewers and glued in with thinned darkened glue.
 
The picture below shows the heads of the nails being filed down using a #0 flat riffler.
 

 
Filing seems to be the fastest and best way to level these off.  Sanding is much slower and tends to round the planks if not used with a flat board, which is somewhat awkward for this planking.  The coarse file cuts the heads off cleanly and also deals with any protruding copper bolt heads.
 
 
The last two pictures below show the outside of the hull on the starboard side.  With the inside bands complete all the pine spacers could be removed and in these pictures they have been, a milestone I have been looking forward to for some time.
 

 
This side of the hull will be planked from the wale up and that work can now begin at any time.
 

 
So, there is a lot of work that can now proceed.  Internally, the lower deck needs to be fitted out with hatchways, the riders up the to topside can be installed, the cabins can be laid out, the standard knees finished, and probably some other things before starting in on the upper deck structure.  Externally, starting the planking would then allow it and the internal structures to be done concurrently.  This should facilitate getting the bolting done.  There are also the remaining ribbands to install on the port side.
 
So much to do, so little time.
 
 
Ed

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 82 – Waist Strings, Iron Knees
Posted 6/15/11
 
 
Progess inside the hull above the lower deck continued this week, but was slowed by other things.  Work on the quarterdeck clamps continued on both sides of the hull and in conjunction with this the strings were installed in the waist.  These are shown on the port side in the first picture.
 

 
 
The strings are roughly the same size as the quarterdeck clamps but are not top and butt and there is a clear break point where they join because although he clamps serve as shelves for the beams, the strings were mainly to support the frames along the waist in an era before the skid beams and gangways were an permanent fixture.  The skid beams will rest on clamps that are installed on the face of the strings later.
 
This break is shown in the next picture.
 

 
 
The most forward quarterdeck beam, the breast beam, will lodge right up against the end of the string and rest on top of the clamp, which ends at that point.
 
The next picture is a close up of the top of the frames in the waist and the strings from outside the hull.
 
 

 
These frames have been trimmed back to their final height just at the top of the strings.  The temporary spacers have been removed and the frames in this area are now much sturdier – and aligned.  The pinholes in the picture were left from the temporary ribbands, which have been removed.  The sheer rail will cover these.
 
With this done, the hull from the waist aft could get one final dose of fairing to bring any errant top timbers into line.  Final sanding of the outside of the hull in this area was also begun, but cannot be finished until all the bolts are installed for the knees the upper deck spirketing, etc.  the next picture shows the whole hull on this side at this stage.
 

 
This picture also shows the progress of installing both the quarterdeck clamps and strings on the starboard side and work in progress in the bow area.
 
While this was going on, the wing transom knee and the diagonal knee at the stern were also installed and are shown after the bolts were inserted in the next picture.
 

 
These now need to be filed off and the knees sanded smooth so the remaining two iron straps can be installed.
 
There is probably going to be a lot of ironwork under the upper deck.  It is hard to determine just what was done on the original ship with regard to knees, but at this time iron was definitely replacing wood, so I am thinking about the upper deck hanging knees being done as a combination of wood chocks with iron strapping, a design that was coming into use at this time.
 
The hanging knees and standards in the officers quarters were most certainly iron and the first of these standards, the two on the port side are shown in the next picture.
 

 
These were made from .062” copper sheet, ripped off on the circular saw, tapered at their ends, rounded off and shaped to fit the sides and deck.  They rest on wood “sholes”.  They are drilled to receive copper wire bolts, which are driven into the sides and deck – small nails.  The copper is blackened with liver of sulfur solution, which I have mentioned before.  Any areas exposed by the nailing are touched up with the solution with a small brush, then washed off with water later.  The last picture is one of those dreaded closeups of one of these.
 

 
This picture also shows copper bolts spaced out along the waterway and copper bolts in the spirketing into beams adjacent to the butts of the planks, which was the practice.  Everything else here is treenailed.
 
Ed

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 81 – Quarterdeck Clamps
Posted 6/8/11
 
 
With all the work currently in progress inside the hull, I was becoming concerned about all those top timbers standing up at the side relatively unsupported, so I decided to strengthen them up a bit with the addition of the Quarterdeck clamps.
 

 
In the first picture a pine batten the width of the two strakes of clamps was cut and fixed in place to mark the top and bottom of the clamps.  The lower edge coincides with the tops of the gun ports so I used pieces cut off my no longer needed gun port gauge and inserted them through the ports to serve as a rest for the batten and later the planks themselves.  It doesn’t really show in these pictures but the blocks were tilted down on the inside so the back edge of the planks gets down to the top of each port.  These will be beveled horizontal over each port later.
 
This batten also served as a gauge when making the top and butt planks.  These like the previous ones were cut on the circular saw using the fixed taper guides made for this purpose previously then matched up on the batten to check the overall width.  The fence on the saw could then be adjusted slightly if needed. 
 
In the next picture the first of the lower strakes is being glued on, resting on top of the blocks.
 

 
The second piece is in position but has not been glued yet.  The Qdeck clamps went on a lot faster than those for the upper deck with all their twists and bends at the ends.
 
The next picture, taken later shows the port clamps mostly installed and just about ready for treenailing.
 

 
The upper deck clamp, the lower deck spirketing and the decking visible in this picture have all been treenailed.
 
This picture also shows some of the toptimbers cut down to size.  The quarterdeck rails will be “berthed up” on the model, so some additional timbers above the number shown on the draft, needed to be full length.  Generally, one between each of the quarter deck ports was left long.  All the long ones had their sidings beveled as shown on the draft.  The debris on the lower deck is from cutting these off.
 
The next picture shows how these were marked for cutting.
 

 
I am becoming quite enamored with the use of masking tape to lay out lines along the curved hull.  Its less trouble than trying to hold a curved batten in place for marking.  In this case the points were measured down from the tops of the timbers.  After checking and adjusting this top line, it has become the new reference for measurements inside and outside the hull above the lower deck. The ‘X’s’ in the picture designate he timbers that need to be cut off.  Those with keen eyesight will notice a break in the line at the forward end.  This is because the upper drift rail ends and the timbers forward of that point are somewhat shorter.
 
The next picture shows the result from outside the hull.
 
 

 
The Qdeck clamps gave these timbers some support, but not enough, especially for those mounted on the top sill of the ports.  A couple of these had already suffered from my leaning into the hull to work.  So I decided to install a temporary rough tree rail, much like the rail that now gives the stern timbers protection from me.
 

 
In this picture the rail has been installed.  This took almost no time – less in fact than it takes to fix a broken top timber.  It also has the added utility that it can be a drilling template for the final rail.  It is nailed down with small brass nails.
 
One of the reasons for adding all this support at this time can be seen on the starboard side over the third gun port from the right.  The piece over the second from the right is also a casualty and missing.  I have a feeling it now resides somewhere in the dust collection system.
 

 
Above is another view of all this, including yet another broken toptimber being replaced at the forward end of the installed deck clamp..  My coffee-can-top glue palette and glue brush didn’t make it out of the picture.  I’m using yellow glue to attach the planks to the frame because it’s easier to clean off completely off the back side between the timbers.  These areas of plank will be visible between frames.  The dark glue is being used on the surfaces between the joints.  The Wecheer drill, which I have been using for almost all drilling, is also not put away.
 
All these tasks I have been describing provide a break in the treenail making and installing process, which seems to go on and on.  There is also the catch-up work to be done on the starboard side.
 
Ed

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 80 –Lower Deck Work Continued
Posted 6/6/11
 
Work has been a bit slow over the past week or so, with some other activities taking precedent, so there have been no posts for over a week.  The first picture shows the ironwork being installed at the feet of the counter timbers on the port side.
 

 
These straps were made from copper sheet, cut into strips on the circular saw and formed around their respective timbers.  Holes for bolts were then drilled by hand on the bench after marking in place and center punching.  After drilling and polishing the straps were blackened with Liver of Sulfur solution.  Copper bolts with heads were formed by peening the stiffened 24 gauge wire.  They were then cut off to nail-like lengths blackedened and driven into smaller holes drilled into the timbers.  Copper exposed by this process was touched up with the LoS solution, which does not stain the wood.
 
The next picture shows the pieces on this side finished.
 

 
In the next picture the long task of treenailing the deck and the clamps has begun
 
 

 
 
Treenails are bamboo, about 1.5 inch diameter (.025”).  They are inserted with dark glue as a long uncut rod into predrilled holes, then clipped off.  Glue was washed off the area with water and when dry the nail heads are filed off and the deck scraped/sanded..  This picture also show the “shole” for the aftermost standard, which being inside one of the officers cabins, will be iron, to give him some more room. 
 
 
The next picture shows some of the deck treenailing and also one of the wood standards being set up outside of the cabins.  This will also mounted on a shole.
 

 
In the next picture holes are being drilled for treenails in the upper deck clamp.
 

 
Most of these holes were drilled with the small Wecheer rotary tool, which just fits inside the hull, albeit with a slight upward tilt.  I have been giving the Dremel rotary tool with the right angle head a trial run for this work and that is shown in the picture.  I usually center punch these holes first, then turn the drill off between holes.  With this tool I have been using a foot pedal from another tool to start the drill over each hole.  Since the drill is set to a lower speed and the foot pedal increases speed proportionally, there is less of the “kick” I had previously experienced with this larger tool.  It works well – and fast.
 
In the last picture the forward sections of upper deck clamp are being glued to the timbers in the bow.
 

 
These were boiled in the usual way, clamped in this way in the bow, left to dry overnight, removed, trimmed a bit, and glued in with the same clamping arrangement.  The forward end of the waterway and some of the forward decking can also be seen in this picture.
 
That’s about it for this week – a collection of several small tasks.
 
 
Ed

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 79 –Transom Knees and Sleepers
Posted 5/27/11
 
Most of the time over the past few days has been spent trying to sort out the fixing of the port wing transom knee and the outer sleeper. Both these pieces need to mate up with the lower deck spirketing.
 
The last picture in Part 78 showed the last piece of lower strake spirketing being clamped in place after boiling. In the first picture below, it has been permanently glued down on the waterway and the frames and the piece above it has been bent from a full top and butt plank and is lying loosely above it held by a wedge and a bit of toothpick.
 

 
As mentioned previously, the first installation of the transom knee and sleeper was not correct and both have been removed in the above picture.
 
In the next picture the upper plank is glued in and both are getting a scraping to bring their edges flush.
 
 

 
The next picture shows the new wing transom configuration based on my best interpretation of Steel, White, et al.
 

 
Specifications call for this timber to be scarphed down on the spirketting. I had planned to just fay it on top, but after curving the old straight piece to shape and trying it on, it was clear that it wanted to be scarphed into the top strake of spirketing and that’s what is shown in the above picture.
 
The scarph cut into the spirketing is shown below.
 

 
With this joint the curved transom fits almost perfectly.
 
But before it can be installed, the lower aft strake of upper deck clamp needs to be in place. In the next picture that piece has been given a good boiling and is clamped for drying. Waiting for these pieces to dry out before gluing has added time to the process – a good thing, as it has given me time to think about how this should fit together.
 
attachment=35928:N79 05.jpg]
 
In this picture a pair of c-clamps are holding the frames in line. The planking clamps put pressure on these frames and the backing helps protect them. Also, without any support these can end up bowed outward when the glue holding the planking to them sets.
 
In the next picture all the pieces are in place held by pins. Except for the last plank of the upper deck clamps. This will be fit when all this is glued and will extend back to the counter timber.
 

 
The next picture shows step one of the fastening of these parts.
 

 
The lower strake of the clamp is pinned, wedged and glued in place. Ditto for the sleeper, which fays to the top three transoms and the lower strake of spirketing.
 
 
 
The last picture shows the finished installation, including the last piece of the upper strake of the clamp at the very top of the picture.
 

 
The bolts are in the knees but there are more needed on the waterways and spirketing – also tree nailing on the rest. I have settled on all the bolts in this area up to the wing transom being copper and above that, iron, thus the bolts on the feet of the counter timbers are iron (black monofilament). I saw in the contract for another ship the critieria of copper up to 2 ½ feet above water, so I’m generally following that on thrugh hull fastenings. Iron straps will be installed at the foot of each counter timber and the outer two will extend over the transom knee.
 
Now we’ll see if this can be mirrored on the starboard side.
 
At this stage decking has also been installed on this side, enough to allow the officers cabins on this side to be modeled. There will be more pictures of the decking in the next segment.
 
Ed

Thanks, Sherry
 
A test to see how to make the top of the shroud chain plates. the first test was a bit rough.
after fretting out the shape on a scrap piece I annealed it then curled the loop with some round nosed pliers the taper could be longer 
on these pliers.

 
silver soldering
 

 
The loop is a little too small and I overheated the metal, also I should have closed the loop a little better the joint was not good.
 

 
Second test with a larger  and wider loop
 

 
ready to solder the small piece if silver solder is wet with the Vigor liquid flux.
 

 
soldered
 

 
cleaned up with emery and steel wool
 

 
Checking the look, I think I will taper the plates down to the wooden standoff rather than have the cut shoulder.
 

 
Tomorrow I will make the loops on the chainplates.
 
Michael
 

that's the beauty of this large scale........the fittings can be created with such detail.......and as a working,  movable part!   superbly done!