druxey

For some parts yes, for most parts not.
The first models appeared just after the wreck was recovered. Based on information at that time.
This model, and the caldercraft model, are based on this early info.
in fact they have turned a carrack into a kind of a galeon. 🤢
 
buy and read.😉
 
 

A pleasure to watch your thread Patrick.
Ab

With the port side also ready, the standards are made to height. A simple way to measure, is to use a wooden plank as a template.

 
A mold for the semi-circular gun ports. This is slightly conical, so up to the arrow and no further, otherwise the hole is too big.

Ready.

This is how far we have come, next is the last piece of planking on the bow.

Thanks for following

I've been pondering that length problem, Alan. As 168' 0" was never crossed out on the contract and replaced with 175' 0" and the 'as launched' draught states 168' 0", I'd say the longer measurement is a red herring. Fergeddabahtitt!

Well, if you are a fool (and I don't think that you are), you are a consistent one at least! That hull does look very sleek now.

I realize that after a long day's work one's focus may not be the best, Alan. But we are cheering you on, nevertheless!

I've no idea what the Newtonian ring effect is telling me, but it looks interesting!
 
Going back to your earlier post showing the extract from the contract, I was amused at the notation: '0 feet and 13 inches'!

Well, Chris, you are mastering a number of basic techniques that you can apply to more complex models later. As for the thwarts, it's much easier to trim them down to fit than to stretch them! You did a particularly nice job at the bow transitioning from clinker to flush at the stem. Well done.

Well, if you are a fool (and I don't think that you are), you are a consistent one at least! That hull does look very sleek now.

A pleasure to be-hold, is it not? (Sorry, couldn't resist that.)

And... the magic begins to show! Lovely work, as ever, Gary.
 
Off topic, the eclipse: If one believes that it is all a coincidence in size and distance.... BTW, in Niagara we were almost totally cloud covered that day. Sigh.

Impressive photo!

Likewise. A little late to the party, but... A lovely model of an unusual subject. Well done, Geert!

That is such a pity. I do understand why you would want to re-make the spar. At least a topgallant has fewer parts attached than a lower yard!

Lovely neat joinery as usual!

Just catching up with you, Alan. You'll be glad you corrected the orlop, as it would otherwise affect the line and clearance of the deck above and....
 
Drilling hawse holes is a very iffy thing, as you've discovered. Years ago I figured out a new strategy: I filed half-round grooves in the hawse pieces before assembling them on the model. The diameter was just slightly undersize and just required touch-up filing to final size. No chance of tear out or breaking off a hawse piece, plus the upward angle and parallelism to the keel of the hole was established and controlled.

That looks really nice, Mark. Those small brass nails were called panel pins in England, I believe. I have a stash of them that used to be my father's. 

Nice to see a more unusual subject, Colin. Your 'good enough' certainly is!

I mentioned this project quite a while ago on a page dedicated to the building of a Victorian racing yacht so I thought it might be worth updating it as a separate topic now I am back modelling after quite a while restoring a 1930 Singer Six car, a 1937 Singer Coupe and a 1952 MG TD imported from Texas!  This is a typical smack of about 40' LOD which I'm modelling at 1/2":1'.  The plans are non-scale so I have been using proportional dividers to scale up, plus I am constantly scouting the net for details that the plans do not show.   I am using lime for most of the boat as sheets in various thicknesses are readily available and it works really well with hand tools and my small bandsaw.  It will be apparent that I am not a precise modeler, being very much of the 'good enough' school, and I have used filler to fair the hull as I plan to paint her in traditional colours and hopefully evoke a working boat.  I'm currently making templates for the covering boards and cutting deck planking to scale, but i will paint the hull before planking as I will leave the deck unpainted even though most surviving boats have their decks sheathed and painted.      

What a difference some paint makes.   Bulwarks are painted however as usual, I will be applying many more thin coats over the next few weeks as I progress.   
 
Before and after...
 

 

Interesting collection of accessories. The wiring looks a but dodgy, though! Caveat emptor.

A pleasure to be-hold, is it not? (Sorry, couldn't resist that.)

Thank you, Roel 
 
 
 Tom, let it suffice to say since taking over cooking duties I've lost 14 pounds. I don't like cooking, it's just not my thing and yes, I much relieved that Maggie is at the point that she's getting where she can move back into the chief cooking role. 
 
 
 Thank you, Bob. She don't need no stuffed penguin and chocolates to make her smile, she has me! 
 
 
 Thank you, Keith. I consider knitting one those womanly mysteries I best left be. 
 
 
 Thank you, Brian. 
 
 
 Thank you, Gary. An easy rhythm to life is a good life. 
 
 
 Thank you, Glen. As soon as I hit the send button I'm making my way upstairs for some ole finger retraining. 
 
 Thank you to all for the likes and for following along. You guys bless my heart in so many ways, thank you for being you. 

Well, if you are a fool (and I don't think that you are), you are a consistent one at least! That hull does look very sleek now.

Thank you John / Gary.
 
It is time to start what I anticipate to be a long planking job.
 
I am starting at the bulwark. I plan to plank the hull with mahogany planks of .062" thickness by nominally .220" wide. The plank widths will obviously vary to conform with the hull shape as progress is made. The bulwark will be made from a nominally 1" wide by  .032" thick birch ply which will be clad with .032" mahogany planks as per the attached sketch.

The bitch ply cannot follow the line of the bulwark exactly without shaping so it is being put on to sit slightly above the line of the capping rail. It will be cut back to the capping rail shape later in the build.
 
I started by glueing bits of scrap wood to the frames. These position / support the plywood during gluing. Each one cut back to  conform with the shape the plywood strip wants to take.

At this stage I also did the final sanding of the hull.

Then followed the slow process of fitting the plywood strakes. They were glued in position with a ample layer of PVA wood glue.
The strakes were held in place with plenty of notice board pins and elastic bands while the glue dried.

The plywood sheet wasn't long enough to extend the full length of the hull and the stern needed separate strips.


I didn't get one to the frames right and this was revealed "too late" by the application of the bulwark strakes. I will need to correct this before I plank the bulwarks. Stupidly having noticed the mistake I the repeated it on the other side. There is no fool like an old fool.

Applying the bulwark strake to the stern was quite challenging due to the extreme curvature.

Before attaching the ply to the stern I slotted it with a series of horizontal cuts.

With a bit of fiddling this enabled it to wrap around the stern.

A bit of sanding produced an acceptable shape for subsequent planking.

That all for now folks!