paul ron
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so the polyesters are ok then. joanns has the mara and plenty polyester threads in several weights in a wide assortment of colors. thanks paul
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all great info friends. but the question is what can i use that is available at the simple joanns that has logevity? im stuck here. cotton over polyester or nylon? my oldest ships are 45 years old. the rigging was all done with plain sewing threads i waxed woth bees wax. i ran it on my walk to make scale rope. the heavy standing was with button thread. cotton and polyester was the main threads in my box then. well after 45 years of sitting on the shelf, some rigging is rather brittle. which ones?... who knows. so should i worry about what i use since in 45 years from now, ill probably be dead? mmmmm maybe im over thinking this way to much. what do you guys use and what are your oldest time tested riggs made of?
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twine may be too heavy but we are on the right track with gutterman waxed linen. i was at joanns today looking for it but no dice. they do carry hemp thread in a light tan. anyone try that before? so i saw a wide variety of silk, cotton and polyester... no linens. if you were limited to those, which would be better? oh and is there a standard gage for these threads? i dont see any indications on the spools. this part of rigging is a real pita. the actual work is fun.
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What do you do with your unusable rigging line?
paul ron replied to capnharv2's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
im sure that line can be used by crafters. i can find a thousand uses for it... send it all to me, my grand kids would have a ball sewing clothes for their dolls and making macramey with it. -
where can i buy linen thread? i seem to remember there were only a couple suppliers overseas and expensive. so wax is dead. when i started building ships it was highly recomended. but times change. ill look into the shelac... but doesnt that stiffen when dried?
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so bees wax is not recomened on rigging? ive been using it for over 50 years. yes my old ship's rigging has gotten delicate with age, but i attribute that to the longevity of the material of the thread. so what thread material has the best longevity and what are we now using as a preservative if not wax? btw the bees wax i use is sold by an ukranian easter egg supplier. he has black and naturan for $1/cake.
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very cool idea.
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nubie question regarding string and knots
paul ron replied to EricWilliamMarshall's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
The nail polish is only being used to tip the line, not coat the entire length. Fast drying makes quick work. More expensive? he doesn't need a gallon of the stuff n $2 for an ounce is not going to break the bank. That ounce will last a long time as well. -
nubie question regarding string and knots
paul ron replied to EricWilliamMarshall's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Surgical scisors are the best n you can get them cheap online. Use some clear nail polish, it dries fast. -
Just out of curiosity... how were they used without taking off fingers or losing hands in the process of letting them out n bring them back in on a rocking n rolling ship at sea? I would have though they had some sort of pulley n rope system for that?
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Ive used polyester on a couple ships I built 35 years ago when I couldnt care what I used. They are now in a delicate state of failure. They are so fragile they almost disintegrate when touched. Im surprised polyester was a choice for a museum. BTW I love the look of your ropes. I am (for the past 5 years) in the process of rigging a clipper but stalled trying to make a choice in rope material. After seeing this... Im back to "I dont care" what I use, I just have to get this ship off my work bench. Thanks for reinforcing my "I dont care" attitude.
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Lets say it was 100' of rope on deck. A coil would be enormous let alone how badly it would foul when run up again. That brings me to the balentine method of coiling a working line on deck. Ive never seen balentines on model ships but when I was on a schooner as a hand we used balentines on all working ropes. It doesnt foul. So I was wondering why no one is using this method on models? Does anyone know when balentines come into use? .
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Im sure its for display so the decking can be more visable.
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Just curious... how many yards of line does one of those coils represent? Also when did they start using balentines? I spent some time on a schooner n we used balentines to keep running lines on deck, so when it came time to let it run it wasn't tangled on the way out. Does anyone know how many yards of any one line on a clipper ship is on deck when yards n sail are up?
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Flying Fish... sucuring studsail yards
paul ron replied to paul ron's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Thank you very much. It just doesn't sound right they only get lashed. The rocking and the booms sliding free??>.... counds like a lot of fingers were lost on that job. I expected them to be on some sort of pulley system for safety. BUT Im also forgetting they werent union workers. again thanks. Im a bit more at ease with it now. BTW I bought that book just around when it went out of printing. -
Im building the Flying Fish Clipper and seem to be having trouble finding information on how the yards for studsails were secured and operated under sail. I have the yards through the hoops atop the each yard arm. They slide in n out very nicely but how was it controled by the men? I can just lash it in place but it wont look very authentic will it? Thanks
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Using the plumb line is a nice idea. As someone mentioned, a level accross the ship doesn't always ensure its level visually because of the slightest varyation in build. Still a good suggestion n im going to give it a go. I've tried everything over the years n this is practicle n easy enough.
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Possible new technique for making sails.
paul ron replied to rckdr's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
If we can find out who makes the tape?... Maybe its possable to get the material in sheets without glue. Also, gluing strips will make your sails stiff n awkward when setup. Besides archival photo tape glue wont last long before it lets go, i use this tape to hinge mount my photos. I have to retape them every few years. -
Very nice! Ive been using a dental tool very similar but only has a single hook. Definately going to make one of these. Thanks for sharing.
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Ive got furnature grade black walnut i cut my strips out of n love it. But the stuff ive seen in kits is usually poor quality or improperly saw walnut that just has the grain running the wrong way or soft fast growth junk that should have been tossef in a fireplace! That stuff in the above pic looks more like philapino mahogany... Grain is too open n looks like straws... Not walnut for sure!
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Thanks for the tips. I was working on my chain plates n working out a jig but then saw this that just confirmed everything for me.
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It would be nice if i were able to see a similar real ship but nyc doesnt have any ships availale. I can't seem to find any information on chafing methods let alone the proper routing of these lines. Besides, this really isn't a chafing problem, it would be a hauling wear n fouling problem in the way these lines will fall. Figuring there must be an experianced builder here that has some Clippership experiance. At least lead me to a reliable reference to methods n practice used in 1850. Also my ship will be fitted with sails in place so all these lines will be present. Left to me, my rerouts wouldn't be very authentic to my ship plus leave me open for critisism after the fact.... Everyone has 20/20 hind sight!
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Thats great. Id run the lines through ball bearing blocks n coated fairleads, maybe even remotely motorize the entire shebang even though this is a tea clipper of 1850. Use silny sail cloth so rigging can be lighter?... Nah! So back to routing lines through shrouds. All the reading ive done just says how its run through fairleads attached to the shrouds, but no details or mention how these lines pass through without creating undue friction n clutter on lines when hauling, or undue wear on rubs. So do they just plumb through for a natural drop?... What kind of protection did they use in 1850? Do you know definatively how this was done?... Perhaps point me to some documentation on the protection techniques used in 1850 clippers? No matter how i see these lines going through, they make more problems regardless of how i move em using technology i am familiar with... But thats not 1850s methods, it would be 2014 methods!... But then id re engineer the entire ship to modern materials.
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Not to hijack this thread but i have a similar problem concerning bunts, clews n leachlines. After these lines pass through their proper holes, they are suposed to go to a fairlead on the shrouds then down to the pin rails. Well what id like to know, are these lines plumbed through the shrouds then to the fsirleads? If they pass through the shrouds, wont they create a wear problem on the shrouds? Wont they also create an obstical for men climbing into the trees? For some reason im not comfortable with this. Anyone have some photos? Oh, my ship is a scratch build clipper, flying fish.
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Household Ammonia
paul ron replied to Q A's Revenge's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I find leaving my strips overnight in the toilet tank softens em enough for your sharpest bends... Jig em in till they dry n you are all set.
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