
paul ron
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Everything posted by paul ron
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seems the new way is polyester according to the experts in here. but the real question is what is your oldest ship rigged with? i have 6 ships from the past 45-50 years on shelves, no case, all rigged with bees wax on cotton or linen that are still holding up very nicely. they may be a bit brittle but what can you expect from the materials over all those years? so are there any poly rigged ship about 50 years old to attest to poly longevity?... if not, ill stick to natural fiber n wax. proof is in the puddin.
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A new angle in precision sanding
paul ron replied to Arcticbeaver's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
your links are dead -
i like that. my problem is as i research im finding more and more to add to my build. it gets crazy after awhile. moving on. thanks everyone paul
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flying fish 1851 clipper. the underhill book has a picture of what im talking about... i may not have the correct terminology but the pic on pg 86 fig 92 is obvious showing the jack stay running down the lower main and fore masts. ive seen these on many ships but was it used on clippers in 1851?... should i make more work for myself or close an eye?
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yes thats the bible everyone refers to in here... anyway, the heavy lines coming down from the top to the deck... how is that installed? im guessing its via eyes at the top and deck.
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underwood page 86 fig 92... the verticle jack stay on the main and fore masts has rat lines. how is the line they are connected to secured to the top and deck? these rat lines arent on my plans either... 1851 flying fish clipper... were these being used at that time? thanks paul
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Heater for sealing the end of rigging rope.
paul ron replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
i have a couple of these from different manufacturers and both are junk. it crushes the thread instead of clipping it. the nail clippers work great and are alot cheaper to replace. another good clipper is a cuticle cutter. i found a tiny one at rite aid years ago and are still working fine. a nice pair of sugical iris scissors that cut to the tip is hard to find but work the best once you find a good one. i like the sharp tiny angle scissors to get in tight places. -
maybe im late to the party but i found bamboo tooth picks at an asain market that are very thin.... maybe 1/16" or less. a pack of 500 was $1.50. also a bit heavier are bamboo skewers about 1/8"... very straight and very strong. using my utility knife to scrape them, i can make them even thinner for my shear poles. most impressive, they are very strong and very straight.
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allanyed... lets not split hairs... im talking about lanterns as in devices that emitt light. now for the final Jeopardy question... since the lanterns of 1850 were oil lamps... how were they mounted on rocking n rolling ships at sea? .. were they gimballed, just suspended or sealed some how to prevent the oil from spilling?
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yes the 24 is optically pleasing. i was tinkering with different gages but then the ocd kicked in to find what would real ones measure. thanks. gak1965... i cruised your build log for the ff... nice job!
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the pipe diameter
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so would you think about 1" - 1.5" is a fair estimate?
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im working at 1/8" = 1' flying fish. 1" = 0.0104" what is the diameter of a jack stay on clippers; and what would the scale equivalent wire gage be on my model?
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im also scratch building the flying fish using the model shipways plans. my plans are 1/8" to the foot... 1:96 scale. do you need scale measurements or real world measurements of the masts? ill check my plans later for measurements if you can tell me exactly what you are interested in? btw there are a few good videos of this ship. i like the begining of this one... and this... and...
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thats what i thought as well. hauling under the rail seems logical. thanks guys. paul
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no no no not about the knots. when a sheet comes down the mast to a deck block and exits the deck block inside the fife rail... does the end of the rope exit under the fife rail or over the rail and belay on a pin?
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when lines come down to the fife then through a deck block... do they go over the rail or under then belay to a pin?
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thanks... i loved it! gotta say everyone on this site are very talanted and dedicated. im in awe of the quality and care of detail put into the ships. i have been scratch building my 1:96 flying fish clipper for over 30 years i regret not getting the 1/4" plans though... cant squeeze in enough detail at 1/8". im not as dedicated as most are in here so my ship sits on a shelf between build sperts. i just have too many hobbies. lately i have a craving to finally finish her. she just needs rigging at this point. i spent a few good years getting it ready to where all that's needed are for me to thread her up... and after spending the past couple months doing it, i see a long year ahead with lots of work. this will be my 6th completed ship in 50 years. my next will be a whaler... had the plans since 1982. ships facinate me! thanks again...
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how to secure a rope hank to the sheer poles?
paul ron replied to paul ron's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
oh thats a great photo rob. wow it looks like lines were just drapped over some poles in that picture. i saw many photos n videos of ships at sea in foul weather... im just in awe how rough it gets out there, especially polar expeditions. alan where did you find info on sheer poles? i love the young america build log. ive been going over it a bit at a time... its alot of great information. im also going over another build log of the flying fish, except im scratch building mine. seems kits had better drawings n instructions than the plans im using. thanks everyone... you guys are amazing. im only doing ship modeling for 50 years on n off but you guys are very dedicated n knowledgeable. im intrigued with the research of ship construction of the period and how it all functioned when out at sea. man those guys were tough. thanks again, paul
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