John Maguire

Thanks Doc. Thank you for the LIKES dear friends .  .  .  .
 
This post will set a record for the least work accomplished and reported proudly. 
 
I have at least two weeks of studying your collective posts and personal experimentation trying to successfully edge bend the type of wood supplied with this kit. Chuck's video set me on the right path but the dry edge bending he uses destroys my wood specie - whatever it is. I have tried wet, dry, alcohol, water, hot, cold, boiling, microwave, wrap around coins, free shape, clamps, etc, etc .  .  .  .
 
Over the last two days I have learned that  if I wet my wood in warm water - alcohol is no good because it evaporates to fast -  it can be coerced to the extent necessary. The wood I have shatters if I edge bend it dry. In order to be successful my specific kind of wood has to be wet. I need to begin with the moveable part of my jig on top of the strake to keep it from wrinkling as I initially push it into the concave side. Working on a tile is best because it is slippery and I can slide the strake. Whatever wrinkling that might want to occur is held in check because it is beneath the moveable part of my jig and as the wood is soft, wet and mushy the wrinkling gets absorbed, if that would be a good description. As I get it mostly into the concave piece I can then move the moveable part into position behind the strake and push it the rest of the way for the tight fit you see in the picture. As I am doing that final push I need to continuously tamp the top of the strake with the square brass piece seen in the photo to keep it from wrinkling. Having the wood wet gives me the ability to do that without breaking or wrinkling the wood.
 
Once I have the strake fully shaped, I use Chuck's heat method for several minutes. Five to ten. When the strake is left in the jig overnight it is dimensionally stable in the morning with zero spring back.
 

 
The next picture is the first section of the wale plank on the stbd side. As stated yesterday, I plan to plank in shorter, less than full hull lengths to allow glueing control that is more positive than my previous attempt. The repeatable plank butt pattern might also add a little visual interest. This wale plank on each side and the one above it are the most difficult on the ship to shape. I carefully used dividers to ensure this strake is in the same relative hull position as the other side. The bands and virtual frame positions are seen but I have not begun to tic this side because that will be relative to this strake.
 

 
So, one small step but a major problem - for me - finally solved with a solution that is readily repeatable.
 
And then the stern. The demarcation between the diagonals and the horizontal strakes is not as perfect as I'd wish but it is covered  when the rear wrap around of the wale goes on.
 

 
Another day in the Cougar Mtn Shipyard .  .  .
 
Respectfully submitted,
John Maguire
Seattle
 
 
 
 
 

Doc,
 
Exquisite. I wish I had your imagination and creativity .  .  .
 
Respectfully,
John

Wow, thank you for the LIKES and increasing number of viewers.
 
Mike, an appreciation from you is meaningful - thank you.
 
Joe, it is frustrating trying one thing after another and failing, isn't it ? <smile> Winning is easy - it's hard to  be a good looser.
 
Doc, Mark got it for you. I must have been misleading on the third video. I used the line out method and fan from the other section of the forum. I think it is clearly presented. I still have to expand my line out to include all areas of the hull.
 
Doc, I hadn't thought about a diagonal grain. That is however, the culprit! All my failures are diagonal. The clues, though obvious, didn't rise to my level of consciousness until you asked. You've got it .  .  .
 
Apropos of that, I did an additional bow area strake today. It is a long process so even one or two pieces is time consuming. First though, I experimented with the edge beveling process  by setting the table on my Byrnes saw at 75 degrees and with the wheel stationary, I moved the plank back and forth trying to achieve a uniform edge.
 

 
For me, edge bending remains a challenge. I wanted to bend over a slightly longer length than previously so I tried boiling the piece for about ten minutes then bringing the pan to my bench and rewetting a couple of times. Is ten minutes long enough? The wood mass is minimal .  .  .
 
I bent only one bow piece today. It matches the other side that was installed a couple of days ago.  Today, for some reason, bending was more difficult than previous pieces. Once bent,I used Chuck's heat gun for about ten minutes and because of the size of the bend I did it a second time. About an hour later I removed the piece and it had zero spring back. I've got to emphasize again, getting it bent was a challenge .  .  .  . I sure wish someone could point me in a better direction. I don't have enough wood to spile. Am I negligent for not getting more? Chris managed readily, but he is smarter than me.
 

 

 
By the way, to mitigate why I am having more issues than Chris, it is to a large extent due to my desire to have the strakes parallel the wales and keel rather than have an upsweep at the bow. Maybe that makes me a bad person .  .  .  . smile.
 
I continued the bow planking rearward in sections. I have separated the hull length into six sections so that I can have a staggered butt scenario resembling what Chuck did with CHEERFUL.
 

 

 

 
Not much to show for two days of five or six hours each is it? The brown shadow shows the extent of my abandoned initial attempt and then sanded off. One of the things that displeased me the most was black seams and seams that were not quite tight. This time around I am spending significant time to prep where each plank is about to go on the hull, no edge glue and a uniform edge bevel on each one.
 
I take heart with out mutual hero, Remco: "Treat each part as if it is a model on its own, you will finish more models in a day than others do in a lifetime."
 
Respectfully presented,
John Maguire
Seattle
 
 
 

Wow, thank you for the LIKES and increasing number of viewers.
 
Mike, an appreciation from you is meaningful - thank you.
 
Joe, it is frustrating trying one thing after another and failing, isn't it ? <smile> Winning is easy - it's hard to  be a good looser.
 
Doc, Mark got it for you. I must have been misleading on the third video. I used the line out method and fan from the other section of the forum. I think it is clearly presented. I still have to expand my line out to include all areas of the hull.
 
Doc, I hadn't thought about a diagonal grain. That is however, the culprit! All my failures are diagonal. The clues, though obvious, didn't rise to my level of consciousness until you asked. You've got it .  .  .
 
Apropos of that, I did an additional bow area strake today. It is a long process so even one or two pieces is time consuming. First though, I experimented with the edge beveling process  by setting the table on my Byrnes saw at 75 degrees and with the wheel stationary, I moved the plank back and forth trying to achieve a uniform edge.
 

 
For me, edge bending remains a challenge. I wanted to bend over a slightly longer length than previously so I tried boiling the piece for about ten minutes then bringing the pan to my bench and rewetting a couple of times. Is ten minutes long enough? The wood mass is minimal .  .  .
 
I bent only one bow piece today. It matches the other side that was installed a couple of days ago.  Today, for some reason, bending was more difficult than previous pieces. Once bent,I used Chuck's heat gun for about ten minutes and because of the size of the bend I did it a second time. About an hour later I removed the piece and it had zero spring back. I've got to emphasize again, getting it bent was a challenge .  .  .  . I sure wish someone could point me in a better direction. I don't have enough wood to spile. Am I negligent for not getting more? Chris managed readily, but he is smarter than me.
 

 

 
By the way, to mitigate why I am having more issues than Chris, it is to a large extent due to my desire to have the strakes parallel the wales and keel rather than have an upsweep at the bow. Maybe that makes me a bad person .  .  .  . smile.
 
I continued the bow planking rearward in sections. I have separated the hull length into six sections so that I can have a staggered butt scenario resembling what Chuck did with CHEERFUL.
 

 

 

 
Not much to show for two days of five or six hours each is it? The brown shadow shows the extent of my abandoned initial attempt and then sanded off. One of the things that displeased me the most was black seams and seams that were not quite tight. This time around I am spending significant time to prep where each plank is about to go on the hull, no edge glue and a uniform edge bevel on each one.
 
I take heart with out mutual hero, Remco: "Treat each part as if it is a model on its own, you will finish more models in a day than others do in a lifetime."
 
Respectfully presented,
John Maguire
Seattle
 
 
 

Wow, thank you for the LIKES and increasing number of viewers.
 
Mike, an appreciation from you is meaningful - thank you.
 
Joe, it is frustrating trying one thing after another and failing, isn't it ? <smile> Winning is easy - it's hard to  be a good looser.
 
Doc, Mark got it for you. I must have been misleading on the third video. I used the line out method and fan from the other section of the forum. I think it is clearly presented. I still have to expand my line out to include all areas of the hull.
 
Doc, I hadn't thought about a diagonal grain. That is however, the culprit! All my failures are diagonal. The clues, though obvious, didn't rise to my level of consciousness until you asked. You've got it .  .  .
 
Apropos of that, I did an additional bow area strake today. It is a long process so even one or two pieces is time consuming. First though, I experimented with the edge beveling process  by setting the table on my Byrnes saw at 75 degrees and with the wheel stationary, I moved the plank back and forth trying to achieve a uniform edge.
 

 
For me, edge bending remains a challenge. I wanted to bend over a slightly longer length than previously so I tried boiling the piece for about ten minutes then bringing the pan to my bench and rewetting a couple of times. Is ten minutes long enough? The wood mass is minimal .  .  .
 
I bent only one bow piece today. It matches the other side that was installed a couple of days ago.  Today, for some reason, bending was more difficult than previous pieces. Once bent,I used Chuck's heat gun for about ten minutes and because of the size of the bend I did it a second time. About an hour later I removed the piece and it had zero spring back. I've got to emphasize again, getting it bent was a challenge .  .  .  . I sure wish someone could point me in a better direction. I don't have enough wood to spile. Am I negligent for not getting more? Chris managed readily, but he is smarter than me.
 

 

 
By the way, to mitigate why I am having more issues than Chris, it is to a large extent due to my desire to have the strakes parallel the wales and keel rather than have an upsweep at the bow. Maybe that makes me a bad person .  .  .  . smile.
 
I continued the bow planking rearward in sections. I have separated the hull length into six sections so that I can have a staggered butt scenario resembling what Chuck did with CHEERFUL.
 

 

 

 
Not much to show for two days of five or six hours each is it? The brown shadow shows the extent of my abandoned initial attempt and then sanded off. One of the things that displeased me the most was black seams and seams that were not quite tight. This time around I am spending significant time to prep where each plank is about to go on the hull, no edge glue and a uniform edge bevel on each one.
 
I take heart with out mutual hero, Remco: "Treat each part as if it is a model on its own, you will finish more models in a day than others do in a lifetime."
 
Respectfully presented,
John Maguire
Seattle
 
 
 

Wow, thank you for the LIKES and increasing number of viewers.
 
Mike, an appreciation from you is meaningful - thank you.
 
Joe, it is frustrating trying one thing after another and failing, isn't it ? <smile> Winning is easy - it's hard to  be a good looser.
 
Doc, Mark got it for you. I must have been misleading on the third video. I used the line out method and fan from the other section of the forum. I think it is clearly presented. I still have to expand my line out to include all areas of the hull.
 
Doc, I hadn't thought about a diagonal grain. That is however, the culprit! All my failures are diagonal. The clues, though obvious, didn't rise to my level of consciousness until you asked. You've got it .  .  .
 
Apropos of that, I did an additional bow area strake today. It is a long process so even one or two pieces is time consuming. First though, I experimented with the edge beveling process  by setting the table on my Byrnes saw at 75 degrees and with the wheel stationary, I moved the plank back and forth trying to achieve a uniform edge.
 

 
For me, edge bending remains a challenge. I wanted to bend over a slightly longer length than previously so I tried boiling the piece for about ten minutes then bringing the pan to my bench and rewetting a couple of times. Is ten minutes long enough? The wood mass is minimal .  .  .
 
I bent only one bow piece today. It matches the other side that was installed a couple of days ago.  Today, for some reason, bending was more difficult than previous pieces. Once bent,I used Chuck's heat gun for about ten minutes and because of the size of the bend I did it a second time. About an hour later I removed the piece and it had zero spring back. I've got to emphasize again, getting it bent was a challenge .  .  .  . I sure wish someone could point me in a better direction. I don't have enough wood to spile. Am I negligent for not getting more? Chris managed readily, but he is smarter than me.
 

 

 
By the way, to mitigate why I am having more issues than Chris, it is to a large extent due to my desire to have the strakes parallel the wales and keel rather than have an upsweep at the bow. Maybe that makes me a bad person .  .  .  . smile.
 
I continued the bow planking rearward in sections. I have separated the hull length into six sections so that I can have a staggered butt scenario resembling what Chuck did with CHEERFUL.
 

 

 

 
Not much to show for two days of five or six hours each is it? The brown shadow shows the extent of my abandoned initial attempt and then sanded off. One of the things that displeased me the most was black seams and seams that were not quite tight. This time around I am spending significant time to prep where each plank is about to go on the hull, no edge glue and a uniform edge bevel on each one.
 
I take heart with out mutual hero, Remco: "Treat each part as if it is a model on its own, you will finish more models in a day than others do in a lifetime."
 
Respectfully presented,
John Maguire
Seattle
 
 
 

Wow, thank you for the LIKES and increasing number of viewers.
 
Mike, an appreciation from you is meaningful - thank you.
 
Joe, it is frustrating trying one thing after another and failing, isn't it ? <smile> Winning is easy - it's hard to  be a good looser.
 
Doc, Mark got it for you. I must have been misleading on the third video. I used the line out method and fan from the other section of the forum. I think it is clearly presented. I still have to expand my line out to include all areas of the hull.
 
Doc, I hadn't thought about a diagonal grain. That is however, the culprit! All my failures are diagonal. The clues, though obvious, didn't rise to my level of consciousness until you asked. You've got it .  .  .
 
Apropos of that, I did an additional bow area strake today. It is a long process so even one or two pieces is time consuming. First though, I experimented with the edge beveling process  by setting the table on my Byrnes saw at 75 degrees and with the wheel stationary, I moved the plank back and forth trying to achieve a uniform edge.
 

 
For me, edge bending remains a challenge. I wanted to bend over a slightly longer length than previously so I tried boiling the piece for about ten minutes then bringing the pan to my bench and rewetting a couple of times. Is ten minutes long enough? The wood mass is minimal .  .  .
 
I bent only one bow piece today. It matches the other side that was installed a couple of days ago.  Today, for some reason, bending was more difficult than previous pieces. Once bent,I used Chuck's heat gun for about ten minutes and because of the size of the bend I did it a second time. About an hour later I removed the piece and it had zero spring back. I've got to emphasize again, getting it bent was a challenge .  .  .  . I sure wish someone could point me in a better direction. I don't have enough wood to spile. Am I negligent for not getting more? Chris managed readily, but he is smarter than me.
 

 

 
By the way, to mitigate why I am having more issues than Chris, it is to a large extent due to my desire to have the strakes parallel the wales and keel rather than have an upsweep at the bow. Maybe that makes me a bad person .  .  .  . smile.
 
I continued the bow planking rearward in sections. I have separated the hull length into six sections so that I can have a staggered butt scenario resembling what Chuck did with CHEERFUL.
 

 

 

 
Not much to show for two days of five or six hours each is it? The brown shadow shows the extent of my abandoned initial attempt and then sanded off. One of the things that displeased me the most was black seams and seams that were not quite tight. This time around I am spending significant time to prep where each plank is about to go on the hull, no edge glue and a uniform edge bevel on each one.
 
I take heart with out mutual hero, Remco: "Treat each part as if it is a model on its own, you will finish more models in a day than others do in a lifetime."
 
Respectfully presented,
John Maguire
Seattle
 
 
 

Wow, thank you for the LIKES and increasing number of viewers.
 
Mike, an appreciation from you is meaningful - thank you.
 
Joe, it is frustrating trying one thing after another and failing, isn't it ? <smile> Winning is easy - it's hard to  be a good looser.
 
Doc, Mark got it for you. I must have been misleading on the third video. I used the line out method and fan from the other section of the forum. I think it is clearly presented. I still have to expand my line out to include all areas of the hull.
 
Doc, I hadn't thought about a diagonal grain. That is however, the culprit! All my failures are diagonal. The clues, though obvious, didn't rise to my level of consciousness until you asked. You've got it .  .  .
 
Apropos of that, I did an additional bow area strake today. It is a long process so even one or two pieces is time consuming. First though, I experimented with the edge beveling process  by setting the table on my Byrnes saw at 75 degrees and with the wheel stationary, I moved the plank back and forth trying to achieve a uniform edge.
 

 
For me, edge bending remains a challenge. I wanted to bend over a slightly longer length than previously so I tried boiling the piece for about ten minutes then bringing the pan to my bench and rewetting a couple of times. Is ten minutes long enough? The wood mass is minimal .  .  .
 
I bent only one bow piece today. It matches the other side that was installed a couple of days ago.  Today, for some reason, bending was more difficult than previous pieces. Once bent,I used Chuck's heat gun for about ten minutes and because of the size of the bend I did it a second time. About an hour later I removed the piece and it had zero spring back. I've got to emphasize again, getting it bent was a challenge .  .  .  . I sure wish someone could point me in a better direction. I don't have enough wood to spile. Am I negligent for not getting more? Chris managed readily, but he is smarter than me.
 

 

 
By the way, to mitigate why I am having more issues than Chris, it is to a large extent due to my desire to have the strakes parallel the wales and keel rather than have an upsweep at the bow. Maybe that makes me a bad person .  .  .  . smile.
 
I continued the bow planking rearward in sections. I have separated the hull length into six sections so that I can have a staggered butt scenario resembling what Chuck did with CHEERFUL.
 

 

 

 
Not much to show for two days of five or six hours each is it? The brown shadow shows the extent of my abandoned initial attempt and then sanded off. One of the things that displeased me the most was black seams and seams that were not quite tight. This time around I am spending significant time to prep where each plank is about to go on the hull, no edge glue and a uniform edge bevel on each one.
 
I take heart with out mutual hero, Remco: "Treat each part as if it is a model on its own, you will finish more models in a day than others do in a lifetime."
 
Respectfully presented,
John Maguire
Seattle
 
 
 

Wow, thank you for the LIKES and increasing number of viewers.
 
Mike, an appreciation from you is meaningful - thank you.
 
Joe, it is frustrating trying one thing after another and failing, isn't it ? <smile> Winning is easy - it's hard to  be a good looser.
 
Doc, Mark got it for you. I must have been misleading on the third video. I used the line out method and fan from the other section of the forum. I think it is clearly presented. I still have to expand my line out to include all areas of the hull.
 
Doc, I hadn't thought about a diagonal grain. That is however, the culprit! All my failures are diagonal. The clues, though obvious, didn't rise to my level of consciousness until you asked. You've got it .  .  .
 
Apropos of that, I did an additional bow area strake today. It is a long process so even one or two pieces is time consuming. First though, I experimented with the edge beveling process  by setting the table on my Byrnes saw at 75 degrees and with the wheel stationary, I moved the plank back and forth trying to achieve a uniform edge.
 

 
For me, edge bending remains a challenge. I wanted to bend over a slightly longer length than previously so I tried boiling the piece for about ten minutes then bringing the pan to my bench and rewetting a couple of times. Is ten minutes long enough? The wood mass is minimal .  .  .
 
I bent only one bow piece today. It matches the other side that was installed a couple of days ago.  Today, for some reason, bending was more difficult than previous pieces. Once bent,I used Chuck's heat gun for about ten minutes and because of the size of the bend I did it a second time. About an hour later I removed the piece and it had zero spring back. I've got to emphasize again, getting it bent was a challenge .  .  .  . I sure wish someone could point me in a better direction. I don't have enough wood to spile. Am I negligent for not getting more? Chris managed readily, but he is smarter than me.
 

 

 
By the way, to mitigate why I am having more issues than Chris, it is to a large extent due to my desire to have the strakes parallel the wales and keel rather than have an upsweep at the bow. Maybe that makes me a bad person .  .  .  . smile.
 
I continued the bow planking rearward in sections. I have separated the hull length into six sections so that I can have a staggered butt scenario resembling what Chuck did with CHEERFUL.
 

 

 

 
Not much to show for two days of five or six hours each is it? The brown shadow shows the extent of my abandoned initial attempt and then sanded off. One of the things that displeased me the most was black seams and seams that were not quite tight. This time around I am spending significant time to prep where each plank is about to go on the hull, no edge glue and a uniform edge bevel on each one.
 
I take heart with out mutual hero, Remco: "Treat each part as if it is a model on its own, you will finish more models in a day than others do in a lifetime."
 
Respectfully presented,
John Maguire
Seattle
 
 
 

Wow, thank you for the LIKES and increasing number of viewers.
 
Mike, an appreciation from you is meaningful - thank you.
 
Joe, it is frustrating trying one thing after another and failing, isn't it ? <smile> Winning is easy - it's hard to  be a good looser.
 
Doc, Mark got it for you. I must have been misleading on the third video. I used the line out method and fan from the other section of the forum. I think it is clearly presented. I still have to expand my line out to include all areas of the hull.
 
Doc, I hadn't thought about a diagonal grain. That is however, the culprit! All my failures are diagonal. The clues, though obvious, didn't rise to my level of consciousness until you asked. You've got it .  .  .
 
Apropos of that, I did an additional bow area strake today. It is a long process so even one or two pieces is time consuming. First though, I experimented with the edge beveling process  by setting the table on my Byrnes saw at 75 degrees and with the wheel stationary, I moved the plank back and forth trying to achieve a uniform edge.
 

 
For me, edge bending remains a challenge. I wanted to bend over a slightly longer length than previously so I tried boiling the piece for about ten minutes then bringing the pan to my bench and rewetting a couple of times. Is ten minutes long enough? The wood mass is minimal .  .  .
 
I bent only one bow piece today. It matches the other side that was installed a couple of days ago.  Today, for some reason, bending was more difficult than previous pieces. Once bent,I used Chuck's heat gun for about ten minutes and because of the size of the bend I did it a second time. About an hour later I removed the piece and it had zero spring back. I've got to emphasize again, getting it bent was a challenge .  .  .  . I sure wish someone could point me in a better direction. I don't have enough wood to spile. Am I negligent for not getting more? Chris managed readily, but he is smarter than me.
 

 

 
By the way, to mitigate why I am having more issues than Chris, it is to a large extent due to my desire to have the strakes parallel the wales and keel rather than have an upsweep at the bow. Maybe that makes me a bad person .  .  .  . smile.
 
I continued the bow planking rearward in sections. I have separated the hull length into six sections so that I can have a staggered butt scenario resembling what Chuck did with CHEERFUL.
 

 

 

 
Not much to show for two days of five or six hours each is it? The brown shadow shows the extent of my abandoned initial attempt and then sanded off. One of the things that displeased me the most was black seams and seams that were not quite tight. This time around I am spending significant time to prep where each plank is about to go on the hull, no edge glue and a uniform edge bevel on each one.
 
I take heart with out mutual hero, Remco: "Treat each part as if it is a model on its own, you will finish more models in a day than others do in a lifetime."
 
Respectfully presented,
John Maguire
Seattle
 
 
 

Thanks Doc. Thank you for the LIKES dear friends .  .  .  .
 
This post will set a record for the least work accomplished and reported proudly. 
 
I have at least two weeks of studying your collective posts and personal experimentation trying to successfully edge bend the type of wood supplied with this kit. Chuck's video set me on the right path but the dry edge bending he uses destroys my wood specie - whatever it is. I have tried wet, dry, alcohol, water, hot, cold, boiling, microwave, wrap around coins, free shape, clamps, etc, etc .  .  .  .
 
Over the last two days I have learned that  if I wet my wood in warm water - alcohol is no good because it evaporates to fast -  it can be coerced to the extent necessary. The wood I have shatters if I edge bend it dry. In order to be successful my specific kind of wood has to be wet. I need to begin with the moveable part of my jig on top of the strake to keep it from wrinkling as I initially push it into the concave side. Working on a tile is best because it is slippery and I can slide the strake. Whatever wrinkling that might want to occur is held in check because it is beneath the moveable part of my jig and as the wood is soft, wet and mushy the wrinkling gets absorbed, if that would be a good description. As I get it mostly into the concave piece I can then move the moveable part into position behind the strake and push it the rest of the way for the tight fit you see in the picture. As I am doing that final push I need to continuously tamp the top of the strake with the square brass piece seen in the photo to keep it from wrinkling. Having the wood wet gives me the ability to do that without breaking or wrinkling the wood.
 
Once I have the strake fully shaped, I use Chuck's heat method for several minutes. Five to ten. When the strake is left in the jig overnight it is dimensionally stable in the morning with zero spring back.
 

 
The next picture is the first section of the wale plank on the stbd side. As stated yesterday, I plan to plank in shorter, less than full hull lengths to allow glueing control that is more positive than my previous attempt. The repeatable plank butt pattern might also add a little visual interest. This wale plank on each side and the one above it are the most difficult on the ship to shape. I carefully used dividers to ensure this strake is in the same relative hull position as the other side. The bands and virtual frame positions are seen but I have not begun to tic this side because that will be relative to this strake.
 

 
So, one small step but a major problem - for me - finally solved with a solution that is readily repeatable.
 
And then the stern. The demarcation between the diagonals and the horizontal strakes is not as perfect as I'd wish but it is covered  when the rear wrap around of the wale goes on.
 

 
Another day in the Cougar Mtn Shipyard .  .  .
 
Respectfully submitted,
John Maguire
Seattle
 
 
 
 
 

Thank you Brian, Mark, Doc & Joe.
 
I am more verbose than most Joe because I am both slower and since I lack experience I am trying to show all the nitty gritty in hopes that one of you will catch me before I get way beyond my ability to reasonably recover.
 
The pictures in the manual show walnut but the supplied wood is far from that quality. I do not know what it is other than soft.
 
Edge bending to achieve a result similar to spiles took me a week of reading and finally Chuck's video to understand. Reading and doing are two different things .  .  .  .
 
The uppermost strake seen forward in the following photos is the wale plank.  I extended it one more piece aft, leaving one section to go. Learning from your build Mark, when I joined the piece to the wale plank I laid another alongside temporarily to assure the transition would be straight and unnoticed. Slight bending downward will take place beyond.
 
I also like the layout seen in the second group of pictures from the previous post. It seemed to embody the lessons so many have written, but I wanted to present it for opinions in case I was blind siding myself.
 
Today, for future reference, I carefully traced both sides of all four banding planks onto the hull, then tic'd off the uppermost band from my arbitrary 0 frame to the stem. I will end up with approximately 3/4 plank width there.
 

 
Here is another view further forward.
 

 
Before extending the wale strake I needed to finish planking the transom because the finish planking should overlay the transom edge.
 

 
I also had seam blackening for unknown reasons that I have seen others remark about. I am experimenting with an idea that I hope will prevent it. Chuck Passaro, in his CHEERFUL build makes a point of mentioning not using edge glue. He has as you know pencil blackened the edges to simulate tar. If he can get along without edge glue I plan to try it also. My two forward hull strakes and the entire transom are carefully fit with beveled edges and forced tight fits and so far they are clean. Fingers crossed.
 
Respectfully,
John

Thanks Doc. Thank you for the LIKES dear friends .  .  .  .
 
This post will set a record for the least work accomplished and reported proudly. 
 
I have at least two weeks of studying your collective posts and personal experimentation trying to successfully edge bend the type of wood supplied with this kit. Chuck's video set me on the right path but the dry edge bending he uses destroys my wood specie - whatever it is. I have tried wet, dry, alcohol, water, hot, cold, boiling, microwave, wrap around coins, free shape, clamps, etc, etc .  .  .  .
 
Over the last two days I have learned that  if I wet my wood in warm water - alcohol is no good because it evaporates to fast -  it can be coerced to the extent necessary. The wood I have shatters if I edge bend it dry. In order to be successful my specific kind of wood has to be wet. I need to begin with the moveable part of my jig on top of the strake to keep it from wrinkling as I initially push it into the concave side. Working on a tile is best because it is slippery and I can slide the strake. Whatever wrinkling that might want to occur is held in check because it is beneath the moveable part of my jig and as the wood is soft, wet and mushy the wrinkling gets absorbed, if that would be a good description. As I get it mostly into the concave piece I can then move the moveable part into position behind the strake and push it the rest of the way for the tight fit you see in the picture. As I am doing that final push I need to continuously tamp the top of the strake with the square brass piece seen in the photo to keep it from wrinkling. Having the wood wet gives me the ability to do that without breaking or wrinkling the wood.
 
Once I have the strake fully shaped, I use Chuck's heat method for several minutes. Five to ten. When the strake is left in the jig overnight it is dimensionally stable in the morning with zero spring back.
 

 
The next picture is the first section of the wale plank on the stbd side. As stated yesterday, I plan to plank in shorter, less than full hull lengths to allow glueing control that is more positive than my previous attempt. The repeatable plank butt pattern might also add a little visual interest. This wale plank on each side and the one above it are the most difficult on the ship to shape. I carefully used dividers to ensure this strake is in the same relative hull position as the other side. The bands and virtual frame positions are seen but I have not begun to tic this side because that will be relative to this strake.
 

 
So, one small step but a major problem - for me - finally solved with a solution that is readily repeatable.
 
And then the stern. The demarcation between the diagonals and the horizontal strakes is not as perfect as I'd wish but it is covered  when the rear wrap around of the wale goes on.
 

 
Another day in the Cougar Mtn Shipyard .  .  .
 
Respectfully submitted,
John Maguire
Seattle
 
 
 
 
 

Beautiful . . .

That's precisely what I wanted to see, Doc - many thanks .  .  .

Thanks Doc. Thank you for the LIKES dear friends .  .  .  .
 
This post will set a record for the least work accomplished and reported proudly. 
 
I have at least two weeks of studying your collective posts and personal experimentation trying to successfully edge bend the type of wood supplied with this kit. Chuck's video set me on the right path but the dry edge bending he uses destroys my wood specie - whatever it is. I have tried wet, dry, alcohol, water, hot, cold, boiling, microwave, wrap around coins, free shape, clamps, etc, etc .  .  .  .
 
Over the last two days I have learned that  if I wet my wood in warm water - alcohol is no good because it evaporates to fast -  it can be coerced to the extent necessary. The wood I have shatters if I edge bend it dry. In order to be successful my specific kind of wood has to be wet. I need to begin with the moveable part of my jig on top of the strake to keep it from wrinkling as I initially push it into the concave side. Working on a tile is best because it is slippery and I can slide the strake. Whatever wrinkling that might want to occur is held in check because it is beneath the moveable part of my jig and as the wood is soft, wet and mushy the wrinkling gets absorbed, if that would be a good description. As I get it mostly into the concave piece I can then move the moveable part into position behind the strake and push it the rest of the way for the tight fit you see in the picture. As I am doing that final push I need to continuously tamp the top of the strake with the square brass piece seen in the photo to keep it from wrinkling. Having the wood wet gives me the ability to do that without breaking or wrinkling the wood.
 
Once I have the strake fully shaped, I use Chuck's heat method for several minutes. Five to ten. When the strake is left in the jig overnight it is dimensionally stable in the morning with zero spring back.
 

 
The next picture is the first section of the wale plank on the stbd side. As stated yesterday, I plan to plank in shorter, less than full hull lengths to allow glueing control that is more positive than my previous attempt. The repeatable plank butt pattern might also add a little visual interest. This wale plank on each side and the one above it are the most difficult on the ship to shape. I carefully used dividers to ensure this strake is in the same relative hull position as the other side. The bands and virtual frame positions are seen but I have not begun to tic this side because that will be relative to this strake.
 

 
So, one small step but a major problem - for me - finally solved with a solution that is readily repeatable.
 
And then the stern. The demarcation between the diagonals and the horizontal strakes is not as perfect as I'd wish but it is covered  when the rear wrap around of the wale goes on.
 

 
Another day in the Cougar Mtn Shipyard .  .  .
 
Respectfully submitted,
John Maguire
Seattle
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks Doc. Thank you for the LIKES dear friends .  .  .  .
 
This post will set a record for the least work accomplished and reported proudly. 
 
I have at least two weeks of studying your collective posts and personal experimentation trying to successfully edge bend the type of wood supplied with this kit. Chuck's video set me on the right path but the dry edge bending he uses destroys my wood specie - whatever it is. I have tried wet, dry, alcohol, water, hot, cold, boiling, microwave, wrap around coins, free shape, clamps, etc, etc .  .  .  .
 
Over the last two days I have learned that  if I wet my wood in warm water - alcohol is no good because it evaporates to fast -  it can be coerced to the extent necessary. The wood I have shatters if I edge bend it dry. In order to be successful my specific kind of wood has to be wet. I need to begin with the moveable part of my jig on top of the strake to keep it from wrinkling as I initially push it into the concave side. Working on a tile is best because it is slippery and I can slide the strake. Whatever wrinkling that might want to occur is held in check because it is beneath the moveable part of my jig and as the wood is soft, wet and mushy the wrinkling gets absorbed, if that would be a good description. As I get it mostly into the concave piece I can then move the moveable part into position behind the strake and push it the rest of the way for the tight fit you see in the picture. As I am doing that final push I need to continuously tamp the top of the strake with the square brass piece seen in the photo to keep it from wrinkling. Having the wood wet gives me the ability to do that without breaking or wrinkling the wood.
 
Once I have the strake fully shaped, I use Chuck's heat method for several minutes. Five to ten. When the strake is left in the jig overnight it is dimensionally stable in the morning with zero spring back.
 

 
The next picture is the first section of the wale plank on the stbd side. As stated yesterday, I plan to plank in shorter, less than full hull lengths to allow glueing control that is more positive than my previous attempt. The repeatable plank butt pattern might also add a little visual interest. This wale plank on each side and the one above it are the most difficult on the ship to shape. I carefully used dividers to ensure this strake is in the same relative hull position as the other side. The bands and virtual frame positions are seen but I have not begun to tic this side because that will be relative to this strake.
 

 
So, one small step but a major problem - for me - finally solved with a solution that is readily repeatable.
 
And then the stern. The demarcation between the diagonals and the horizontal strakes is not as perfect as I'd wish but it is covered  when the rear wrap around of the wale goes on.
 

 
Another day in the Cougar Mtn Shipyard .  .  .
 
Respectfully submitted,
John Maguire
Seattle
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks Doc. Thank you for the LIKES dear friends .  .  .  .
 
This post will set a record for the least work accomplished and reported proudly. 
 
I have at least two weeks of studying your collective posts and personal experimentation trying to successfully edge bend the type of wood supplied with this kit. Chuck's video set me on the right path but the dry edge bending he uses destroys my wood specie - whatever it is. I have tried wet, dry, alcohol, water, hot, cold, boiling, microwave, wrap around coins, free shape, clamps, etc, etc .  .  .  .
 
Over the last two days I have learned that  if I wet my wood in warm water - alcohol is no good because it evaporates to fast -  it can be coerced to the extent necessary. The wood I have shatters if I edge bend it dry. In order to be successful my specific kind of wood has to be wet. I need to begin with the moveable part of my jig on top of the strake to keep it from wrinkling as I initially push it into the concave side. Working on a tile is best because it is slippery and I can slide the strake. Whatever wrinkling that might want to occur is held in check because it is beneath the moveable part of my jig and as the wood is soft, wet and mushy the wrinkling gets absorbed, if that would be a good description. As I get it mostly into the concave piece I can then move the moveable part into position behind the strake and push it the rest of the way for the tight fit you see in the picture. As I am doing that final push I need to continuously tamp the top of the strake with the square brass piece seen in the photo to keep it from wrinkling. Having the wood wet gives me the ability to do that without breaking or wrinkling the wood.
 
Once I have the strake fully shaped, I use Chuck's heat method for several minutes. Five to ten. When the strake is left in the jig overnight it is dimensionally stable in the morning with zero spring back.
 

 
The next picture is the first section of the wale plank on the stbd side. As stated yesterday, I plan to plank in shorter, less than full hull lengths to allow glueing control that is more positive than my previous attempt. The repeatable plank butt pattern might also add a little visual interest. This wale plank on each side and the one above it are the most difficult on the ship to shape. I carefully used dividers to ensure this strake is in the same relative hull position as the other side. The bands and virtual frame positions are seen but I have not begun to tic this side because that will be relative to this strake.
 

 
So, one small step but a major problem - for me - finally solved with a solution that is readily repeatable.
 
And then the stern. The demarcation between the diagonals and the horizontal strakes is not as perfect as I'd wish but it is covered  when the rear wrap around of the wale goes on.
 

 
Another day in the Cougar Mtn Shipyard .  .  .
 
Respectfully submitted,
John Maguire
Seattle
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks Doc. Thank you for the LIKES dear friends .  .  .  .
 
This post will set a record for the least work accomplished and reported proudly. 
 
I have at least two weeks of studying your collective posts and personal experimentation trying to successfully edge bend the type of wood supplied with this kit. Chuck's video set me on the right path but the dry edge bending he uses destroys my wood specie - whatever it is. I have tried wet, dry, alcohol, water, hot, cold, boiling, microwave, wrap around coins, free shape, clamps, etc, etc .  .  .  .
 
Over the last two days I have learned that  if I wet my wood in warm water - alcohol is no good because it evaporates to fast -  it can be coerced to the extent necessary. The wood I have shatters if I edge bend it dry. In order to be successful my specific kind of wood has to be wet. I need to begin with the moveable part of my jig on top of the strake to keep it from wrinkling as I initially push it into the concave side. Working on a tile is best because it is slippery and I can slide the strake. Whatever wrinkling that might want to occur is held in check because it is beneath the moveable part of my jig and as the wood is soft, wet and mushy the wrinkling gets absorbed, if that would be a good description. As I get it mostly into the concave piece I can then move the moveable part into position behind the strake and push it the rest of the way for the tight fit you see in the picture. As I am doing that final push I need to continuously tamp the top of the strake with the square brass piece seen in the photo to keep it from wrinkling. Having the wood wet gives me the ability to do that without breaking or wrinkling the wood.
 
Once I have the strake fully shaped, I use Chuck's heat method for several minutes. Five to ten. When the strake is left in the jig overnight it is dimensionally stable in the morning with zero spring back.
 

 
The next picture is the first section of the wale plank on the stbd side. As stated yesterday, I plan to plank in shorter, less than full hull lengths to allow glueing control that is more positive than my previous attempt. The repeatable plank butt pattern might also add a little visual interest. This wale plank on each side and the one above it are the most difficult on the ship to shape. I carefully used dividers to ensure this strake is in the same relative hull position as the other side. The bands and virtual frame positions are seen but I have not begun to tic this side because that will be relative to this strake.
 

 
So, one small step but a major problem - for me - finally solved with a solution that is readily repeatable.
 
And then the stern. The demarcation between the diagonals and the horizontal strakes is not as perfect as I'd wish but it is covered  when the rear wrap around of the wale goes on.
 

 
Another day in the Cougar Mtn Shipyard .  .  .
 
Respectfully submitted,
John Maguire
Seattle
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks Doc. Thank you for the LIKES dear friends .  .  .  .
 
This post will set a record for the least work accomplished and reported proudly. 
 
I have at least two weeks of studying your collective posts and personal experimentation trying to successfully edge bend the type of wood supplied with this kit. Chuck's video set me on the right path but the dry edge bending he uses destroys my wood specie - whatever it is. I have tried wet, dry, alcohol, water, hot, cold, boiling, microwave, wrap around coins, free shape, clamps, etc, etc .  .  .  .
 
Over the last two days I have learned that  if I wet my wood in warm water - alcohol is no good because it evaporates to fast -  it can be coerced to the extent necessary. The wood I have shatters if I edge bend it dry. In order to be successful my specific kind of wood has to be wet. I need to begin with the moveable part of my jig on top of the strake to keep it from wrinkling as I initially push it into the concave side. Working on a tile is best because it is slippery and I can slide the strake. Whatever wrinkling that might want to occur is held in check because it is beneath the moveable part of my jig and as the wood is soft, wet and mushy the wrinkling gets absorbed, if that would be a good description. As I get it mostly into the concave piece I can then move the moveable part into position behind the strake and push it the rest of the way for the tight fit you see in the picture. As I am doing that final push I need to continuously tamp the top of the strake with the square brass piece seen in the photo to keep it from wrinkling. Having the wood wet gives me the ability to do that without breaking or wrinkling the wood.
 
Once I have the strake fully shaped, I use Chuck's heat method for several minutes. Five to ten. When the strake is left in the jig overnight it is dimensionally stable in the morning with zero spring back.
 

 
The next picture is the first section of the wale plank on the stbd side. As stated yesterday, I plan to plank in shorter, less than full hull lengths to allow glueing control that is more positive than my previous attempt. The repeatable plank butt pattern might also add a little visual interest. This wale plank on each side and the one above it are the most difficult on the ship to shape. I carefully used dividers to ensure this strake is in the same relative hull position as the other side. The bands and virtual frame positions are seen but I have not begun to tic this side because that will be relative to this strake.
 

 
So, one small step but a major problem - for me - finally solved with a solution that is readily repeatable.
 
And then the stern. The demarcation between the diagonals and the horizontal strakes is not as perfect as I'd wish but it is covered  when the rear wrap around of the wale goes on.
 

 
Another day in the Cougar Mtn Shipyard .  .  .
 
Respectfully submitted,
John Maguire
Seattle
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks Doc. Thank you for the LIKES dear friends .  .  .  .
 
This post will set a record for the least work accomplished and reported proudly. 
 
I have at least two weeks of studying your collective posts and personal experimentation trying to successfully edge bend the type of wood supplied with this kit. Chuck's video set me on the right path but the dry edge bending he uses destroys my wood specie - whatever it is. I have tried wet, dry, alcohol, water, hot, cold, boiling, microwave, wrap around coins, free shape, clamps, etc, etc .  .  .  .
 
Over the last two days I have learned that  if I wet my wood in warm water - alcohol is no good because it evaporates to fast -  it can be coerced to the extent necessary. The wood I have shatters if I edge bend it dry. In order to be successful my specific kind of wood has to be wet. I need to begin with the moveable part of my jig on top of the strake to keep it from wrinkling as I initially push it into the concave side. Working on a tile is best because it is slippery and I can slide the strake. Whatever wrinkling that might want to occur is held in check because it is beneath the moveable part of my jig and as the wood is soft, wet and mushy the wrinkling gets absorbed, if that would be a good description. As I get it mostly into the concave piece I can then move the moveable part into position behind the strake and push it the rest of the way for the tight fit you see in the picture. As I am doing that final push I need to continuously tamp the top of the strake with the square brass piece seen in the photo to keep it from wrinkling. Having the wood wet gives me the ability to do that without breaking or wrinkling the wood.
 
Once I have the strake fully shaped, I use Chuck's heat method for several minutes. Five to ten. When the strake is left in the jig overnight it is dimensionally stable in the morning with zero spring back.
 

 
The next picture is the first section of the wale plank on the stbd side. As stated yesterday, I plan to plank in shorter, less than full hull lengths to allow glueing control that is more positive than my previous attempt. The repeatable plank butt pattern might also add a little visual interest. This wale plank on each side and the one above it are the most difficult on the ship to shape. I carefully used dividers to ensure this strake is in the same relative hull position as the other side. The bands and virtual frame positions are seen but I have not begun to tic this side because that will be relative to this strake.
 

 
So, one small step but a major problem - for me - finally solved with a solution that is readily repeatable.
 
And then the stern. The demarcation between the diagonals and the horizontal strakes is not as perfect as I'd wish but it is covered  when the rear wrap around of the wale goes on.
 

 
Another day in the Cougar Mtn Shipyard .  .  .
 
Respectfully submitted,
John Maguire
Seattle
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks Doc. Thank you for the LIKES dear friends .  .  .  .
 
This post will set a record for the least work accomplished and reported proudly. 
 
I have at least two weeks of studying your collective posts and personal experimentation trying to successfully edge bend the type of wood supplied with this kit. Chuck's video set me on the right path but the dry edge bending he uses destroys my wood specie - whatever it is. I have tried wet, dry, alcohol, water, hot, cold, boiling, microwave, wrap around coins, free shape, clamps, etc, etc .  .  .  .
 
Over the last two days I have learned that  if I wet my wood in warm water - alcohol is no good because it evaporates to fast -  it can be coerced to the extent necessary. The wood I have shatters if I edge bend it dry. In order to be successful my specific kind of wood has to be wet. I need to begin with the moveable part of my jig on top of the strake to keep it from wrinkling as I initially push it into the concave side. Working on a tile is best because it is slippery and I can slide the strake. Whatever wrinkling that might want to occur is held in check because it is beneath the moveable part of my jig and as the wood is soft, wet and mushy the wrinkling gets absorbed, if that would be a good description. As I get it mostly into the concave piece I can then move the moveable part into position behind the strake and push it the rest of the way for the tight fit you see in the picture. As I am doing that final push I need to continuously tamp the top of the strake with the square brass piece seen in the photo to keep it from wrinkling. Having the wood wet gives me the ability to do that without breaking or wrinkling the wood.
 
Once I have the strake fully shaped, I use Chuck's heat method for several minutes. Five to ten. When the strake is left in the jig overnight it is dimensionally stable in the morning with zero spring back.
 

 
The next picture is the first section of the wale plank on the stbd side. As stated yesterday, I plan to plank in shorter, less than full hull lengths to allow glueing control that is more positive than my previous attempt. The repeatable plank butt pattern might also add a little visual interest. This wale plank on each side and the one above it are the most difficult on the ship to shape. I carefully used dividers to ensure this strake is in the same relative hull position as the other side. The bands and virtual frame positions are seen but I have not begun to tic this side because that will be relative to this strake.
 

 
So, one small step but a major problem - for me - finally solved with a solution that is readily repeatable.
 
And then the stern. The demarcation between the diagonals and the horizontal strakes is not as perfect as I'd wish but it is covered  when the rear wrap around of the wale goes on.
 

 
Another day in the Cougar Mtn Shipyard .  .  .
 
Respectfully submitted,
John Maguire
Seattle
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks Doc. Thank you for the LIKES dear friends .  .  .  .
 
This post will set a record for the least work accomplished and reported proudly. 
 
I have at least two weeks of studying your collective posts and personal experimentation trying to successfully edge bend the type of wood supplied with this kit. Chuck's video set me on the right path but the dry edge bending he uses destroys my wood specie - whatever it is. I have tried wet, dry, alcohol, water, hot, cold, boiling, microwave, wrap around coins, free shape, clamps, etc, etc .  .  .  .
 
Over the last two days I have learned that  if I wet my wood in warm water - alcohol is no good because it evaporates to fast -  it can be coerced to the extent necessary. The wood I have shatters if I edge bend it dry. In order to be successful my specific kind of wood has to be wet. I need to begin with the moveable part of my jig on top of the strake to keep it from wrinkling as I initially push it into the concave side. Working on a tile is best because it is slippery and I can slide the strake. Whatever wrinkling that might want to occur is held in check because it is beneath the moveable part of my jig and as the wood is soft, wet and mushy the wrinkling gets absorbed, if that would be a good description. As I get it mostly into the concave piece I can then move the moveable part into position behind the strake and push it the rest of the way for the tight fit you see in the picture. As I am doing that final push I need to continuously tamp the top of the strake with the square brass piece seen in the photo to keep it from wrinkling. Having the wood wet gives me the ability to do that without breaking or wrinkling the wood.
 
Once I have the strake fully shaped, I use Chuck's heat method for several minutes. Five to ten. When the strake is left in the jig overnight it is dimensionally stable in the morning with zero spring back.
 

 
The next picture is the first section of the wale plank on the stbd side. As stated yesterday, I plan to plank in shorter, less than full hull lengths to allow glueing control that is more positive than my previous attempt. The repeatable plank butt pattern might also add a little visual interest. This wale plank on each side and the one above it are the most difficult on the ship to shape. I carefully used dividers to ensure this strake is in the same relative hull position as the other side. The bands and virtual frame positions are seen but I have not begun to tic this side because that will be relative to this strake.
 

 
So, one small step but a major problem - for me - finally solved with a solution that is readily repeatable.
 
And then the stern. The demarcation between the diagonals and the horizontal strakes is not as perfect as I'd wish but it is covered  when the rear wrap around of the wale goes on.
 

 
Another day in the Cougar Mtn Shipyard .  .  .
 
Respectfully submitted,
John Maguire
Seattle
 
 
 
 
 

Beautiful work Mark, 
 
                                  I want to be able to do that when I grow up....
 
            Thumbs up,   Keith

Doc,
 
Exquisite. I wish I had your imagination and creativity .  .  .
 
Respectfully,
John