vaddoc

Indeed Bob!😁
I was referring to methylated spirits.

Good advice above, however I personally never liked Shellac or PVA for sealing wood. I ve been using Decoart wood sealer for years. Water based, dries in 10 min. Absolutely wonderful stuff. A bottle will last years and years - shelf life it seems indefinite.
 
Deco Art Americana Multi-Purpose Sealer-8oz, Other, Multicoloured, 236 ml (Pack of 1) : Amazon.co.uk: Home & Kitchen

Oh dear!
It has been 5 months since my last post. The cause has been twofold: Too much work but also serious difficulties with the boat.
 
I returned to the shipyard and found two major issues.
One was mould developing on the model. The garage where I do my modelling has not been heated for months with temperatures as low as -8 C. Thankfully it was like fine dust, easy to remove. But when mould starts growing on your model, it certainly is a subtle sign you 've gone into hibernation!
The other was that the boat had dramatically changed its shape. Initially, the beam wanted to spread so I had to make braces to hold the sides. However, now this was reversed. The planks appeared to push the sides inwards and the beam was drastically reduced, pushing the stem and sternpost outwards.
 
I started pushing the planking outwards with bits of wood, gradually increasing the beam, using the braces as guide - so happy I had taken this precaution. It took a few weeks to get the boat back into the proper shape.

However, the sheer was now a bit wavy so I fixed a couple of very thick strips on the inner aspect - this did the job well. I also heavily reinforced the flimsy braces.



Now, with the boat back in shape, I was able to proceed with the build. I am essentially making it up as I go as I do not have any detailed plans but I do not think I am actually far off. Now, I would like to have a deck at the bow. This proved a fantastically difficult task.
 
I tried all sorts of jigs to mark the planking so that I could install stringers to support the deck. In the end, I started screwing little pieces of wood, and using flat sheets finally got it close enough. This took weeks and months - very difficult.




Then I screwed the stringers which had to be soaked in boiling water as the curve was quite severe. The small wood pieces were then removed
 
Then, I started making a frame with beams to support the deck. I forgot to take pictures though but again, was not easy. In the next photo the frame is ready, waiting for the epoxy to cure.

Next, I slowly started adding the various pieces for the actual deck. It slowly is coming together now.



I hope things will speed up a bit now.
 
Till next time
 
Vaddoc
 

Oh dear!
It has been 5 months since my last post. The cause has been twofold: Too much work but also serious difficulties with the boat.
 
I returned to the shipyard and found two major issues.
One was mould developing on the model. The garage where I do my modelling has not been heated for months with temperatures as low as -8 C. Thankfully it was like fine dust, easy to remove. But when mould starts growing on your model, it certainly is a subtle sign you 've gone into hibernation!
The other was that the boat had dramatically changed its shape. Initially, the beam wanted to spread so I had to make braces to hold the sides. However, now this was reversed. The planks appeared to push the sides inwards and the beam was drastically reduced, pushing the stem and sternpost outwards.
 
I started pushing the planking outwards with bits of wood, gradually increasing the beam, using the braces as guide - so happy I had taken this precaution. It took a few weeks to get the boat back into the proper shape.

However, the sheer was now a bit wavy so I fixed a couple of very thick strips on the inner aspect - this did the job well. I also heavily reinforced the flimsy braces.



Now, with the boat back in shape, I was able to proceed with the build. I am essentially making it up as I go as I do not have any detailed plans but I do not think I am actually far off. Now, I would like to have a deck at the bow. This proved a fantastically difficult task.
 
I tried all sorts of jigs to mark the planking so that I could install stringers to support the deck. In the end, I started screwing little pieces of wood, and using flat sheets finally got it close enough. This took weeks and months - very difficult.




Then I screwed the stringers which had to be soaked in boiling water as the curve was quite severe. The small wood pieces were then removed
 
Then, I started making a frame with beams to support the deck. I forgot to take pictures though but again, was not easy. In the next photo the frame is ready, waiting for the epoxy to cure.

Next, I slowly started adding the various pieces for the actual deck. It slowly is coming together now.



I hope things will speed up a bit now.
 
Till next time
 
Vaddoc
 

Dear all
 
Thank you for your likes and for visiting. I certainly have missed MSW!
 
@Bedford I will seal the wood Bedford both inside and out. I doubt though this will stop the beech changing its dimensions and I am certain the paint will crack along the plank edges. But it's ok!
 
@Wintergreen I will paint the hull Hakan and I ll fill the few dimples at the bow. Not sure if it will look authentic though! I was actually thinking of using enamel paint for this boat not sure if the wood moving makes it a worse or better choice.
 
In the last two months the only thing I have been able to get done is sanding of the hull. But the amount of sanding needed has been epic: starting at 60 grit, then 80, 100, 120, 180 and finally 240. It is a big girl and both the filler and beech wood are hard so hard work.
 
The photos bellow show the hull as it is after the 240 grit sanding. I ll do a bit more filling, then sand to 320 grit, seal and re-sand to 320. The hull will be painted after the interior is complete so that it is rigid.



The hull is very smooth and started to reflect light. A long way to go but it is getting there.
 
Regards
Vaddoc
 

Oh dear!
It has been 5 months since my last post. The cause has been twofold: Too much work but also serious difficulties with the boat.
 
I returned to the shipyard and found two major issues.
One was mould developing on the model. The garage where I do my modelling has not been heated for months with temperatures as low as -8 C. Thankfully it was like fine dust, easy to remove. But when mould starts growing on your model, it certainly is a subtle sign you 've gone into hibernation!
The other was that the boat had dramatically changed its shape. Initially, the beam wanted to spread so I had to make braces to hold the sides. However, now this was reversed. The planks appeared to push the sides inwards and the beam was drastically reduced, pushing the stem and sternpost outwards.
 
I started pushing the planking outwards with bits of wood, gradually increasing the beam, using the braces as guide - so happy I had taken this precaution. It took a few weeks to get the boat back into the proper shape.

However, the sheer was now a bit wavy so I fixed a couple of very thick strips on the inner aspect - this did the job well. I also heavily reinforced the flimsy braces.



Now, with the boat back in shape, I was able to proceed with the build. I am essentially making it up as I go as I do not have any detailed plans but I do not think I am actually far off. Now, I would like to have a deck at the bow. This proved a fantastically difficult task.
 
I tried all sorts of jigs to mark the planking so that I could install stringers to support the deck. In the end, I started screwing little pieces of wood, and using flat sheets finally got it close enough. This took weeks and months - very difficult.




Then I screwed the stringers which had to be soaked in boiling water as the curve was quite severe. The small wood pieces were then removed
 
Then, I started making a frame with beams to support the deck. I forgot to take pictures though but again, was not easy. In the next photo the frame is ready, waiting for the epoxy to cure.

Next, I slowly started adding the various pieces for the actual deck. It slowly is coming together now.



I hope things will speed up a bit now.
 
Till next time
 
Vaddoc
 

Oh dear!
It has been 5 months since my last post. The cause has been twofold: Too much work but also serious difficulties with the boat.
 
I returned to the shipyard and found two major issues.
One was mould developing on the model. The garage where I do my modelling has not been heated for months with temperatures as low as -8 C. Thankfully it was like fine dust, easy to remove. But when mould starts growing on your model, it certainly is a subtle sign you 've gone into hibernation!
The other was that the boat had dramatically changed its shape. Initially, the beam wanted to spread so I had to make braces to hold the sides. However, now this was reversed. The planks appeared to push the sides inwards and the beam was drastically reduced, pushing the stem and sternpost outwards.
 
I started pushing the planking outwards with bits of wood, gradually increasing the beam, using the braces as guide - so happy I had taken this precaution. It took a few weeks to get the boat back into the proper shape.

However, the sheer was now a bit wavy so I fixed a couple of very thick strips on the inner aspect - this did the job well. I also heavily reinforced the flimsy braces.



Now, with the boat back in shape, I was able to proceed with the build. I am essentially making it up as I go as I do not have any detailed plans but I do not think I am actually far off. Now, I would like to have a deck at the bow. This proved a fantastically difficult task.
 
I tried all sorts of jigs to mark the planking so that I could install stringers to support the deck. In the end, I started screwing little pieces of wood, and using flat sheets finally got it close enough. This took weeks and months - very difficult.




Then I screwed the stringers which had to be soaked in boiling water as the curve was quite severe. The small wood pieces were then removed
 
Then, I started making a frame with beams to support the deck. I forgot to take pictures though but again, was not easy. In the next photo the frame is ready, waiting for the epoxy to cure.

Next, I slowly started adding the various pieces for the actual deck. It slowly is coming together now.



I hope things will speed up a bit now.
 
Till next time
 
Vaddoc
 

For hand held (rotary) tools in sub milimeter sizes, I am using Heller drills or Proxon drills. I have the small Proxon drill press which is wonderful. Small footprint, easy to use, just great. Combined with carbide drill is a great tool, can drill through anything with accuracy. Would be the thing to take to a deserted island, along with my disc sander. Carbide drills cannot be used with hand held drills, they ll break inside your piece and cause issues. Similarly, be careful using black hardened steel drills with hand held drills- they are also fragile although very sharp.
To avoid breaking bits, go for the fastest speed without burning the wood, though some woods respond poorly and will start smoking when drilled.

Take a small piece of plank material, rest it on the frame, slide it down on to the rabet line, cut the bevel so the plank thickness is all in the rabet groove, with the plank piece resting on wood in both surfaces. Do the same for all frames (the angle will constantly change). Connect all the rabet segments you ve cut eyeballing things and/or using pieced of plank material. Rabet done

For hand held (rotary) tools in sub milimeter sizes, I am using Heller drills or Proxon drills. I have the small Proxon drill press which is wonderful. Small footprint, easy to use, just great. Combined with carbide drill is a great tool, can drill through anything with accuracy. Would be the thing to take to a deserted island, along with my disc sander. Carbide drills cannot be used with hand held drills, they ll break inside your piece and cause issues. Similarly, be careful using black hardened steel drills with hand held drills- they are also fragile although very sharp.
To avoid breaking bits, go for the fastest speed without burning the wood, though some woods respond poorly and will start smoking when drilled.

For hand held (rotary) tools in sub milimeter sizes, I am using Heller drills or Proxon drills. I have the small Proxon drill press which is wonderful. Small footprint, easy to use, just great. Combined with carbide drill is a great tool, can drill through anything with accuracy. Would be the thing to take to a deserted island, along with my disc sander. Carbide drills cannot be used with hand held drills, they ll break inside your piece and cause issues. Similarly, be careful using black hardened steel drills with hand held drills- they are also fragile although very sharp.
To avoid breaking bits, go for the fastest speed without burning the wood, though some woods respond poorly and will start smoking when drilled.

For hand held (rotary) tools in sub milimeter sizes, I am using Heller drills or Proxon drills. I have the small Proxon drill press which is wonderful. Small footprint, easy to use, just great. Combined with carbide drill is a great tool, can drill through anything with accuracy. Would be the thing to take to a deserted island, along with my disc sander. Carbide drills cannot be used with hand held drills, they ll break inside your piece and cause issues. Similarly, be careful using black hardened steel drills with hand held drills- they are also fragile although very sharp.
To avoid breaking bits, go for the fastest speed without burning the wood, though some woods respond poorly and will start smoking when drilled.

Indeed Bob!😁
I was referring to methylated spirits.

It works wonderfully. It is not a primer, it is a sanding sealer. Water based so no toxic fumes. Dries in 10-15 min. Sands beautifully. Leaves smooth sealed wood. I have no need to use anything else.
Usually slap a coat on sanded wood with no real care, wait 15min, slap another coat with or without a quick 400 grit sand, wait another 15 min, then do final 320 or 400 grit or whatever and wood is sealed and smooth. Completely colourless. Job done!

Good advice above, however I personally never liked Shellac or PVA for sealing wood. I ve been using Decoart wood sealer for years. Water based, dries in 10 min. Absolutely wonderful stuff. A bottle will last years and years - shelf life it seems indefinite.
 
Deco Art Americana Multi-Purpose Sealer-8oz, Other, Multicoloured, 236 ml (Pack of 1) : Amazon.co.uk: Home & Kitchen

Indeed Bob!😁
I was referring to methylated spirits.

In the past I ve used a lot of humbrol or automotive primer (not good) but for wooden models is really not needed most of the time. There is no problem with adhesion and to smooth imperfections, a filler is needed. It might be useful if the colour of the underlying surface needs to change dramatically, for a large red surface applying a red or grey primer will reduce the number of coats needed. But since you can add 4 coats in an hour with acrylics, maybe not worth the cost and trouble. I usually sand away the primer leaving a thin smooth film. Never tried the Valejo primers, I ve been using the Humbrol white and grey spry can primers which I think are good but will not fill in imperfections. 
 
I like using sanding sealer as it seals the wood leaving a very smooth surface so the paint later does not soak into the wood and does not raise the grain. Painting on sealed wood is a better experience than painting raw sanded wood. I very much like the decoart/Americana water based sealer, the large bottle should last a very long time and has a very long self life. Dries in 15 min, sands very nicely. This sealer sits on top of the wood, filling the valleys and essentially levelling the surface. I usually sand the wood to 400 grit, apply a coat, sand smooth with 400 grit and repeat with a second coat. The surface should reflect light afterwards and be smooth  and slippery. No worries, the paint will adhere very nicely.
 
Never tried weathering, on my to do list!
 
Do not dismiss enamels completely, they are wonderful. Low odour mineral spirit will allow you to paint in the house but cleaning the brushes is a pain, it takes a long time to dry so attracts dust and if you leave everything on the table waiting to add another coat in 6 hours, you will inevitably spill the mineral spirit on the table/floor and the admiral will not be impressed and will ban indoor modelling activities. Much easier to use acrylics...

I now only use deco art (americana) multi purpose sealer. Very cheap, very good, dries in 15 min. Better than shellac. No experience with polyurethane!

The sealer will fill the pores, seal and smooth the wood, stopping it from drinking too much paint, also there will be no problems with the water based paints raising the grain. It is a much better experience painting sealed wood.
 
The primer is not to solve adhesion issues which are pretty much non existent with wood, it is to give you a nice uniform colour, close to the colour you d like to use. So for a black hull, I d use  grey primer. The primer will not fill any imperfections in the wood, however you can use a filler under the primer coat as it will not be visible.
 
Thin to a consistence of milk I d say
 
I think a varnish layer will always give some protection. However it needs care as gloss varnish can be very gloss, and matt needs extra stirring and care in application so that the matt medium does not leave streaks. In the past I have used Renaissance wax on wood, which is completely invisible. Nice on brass as well, keeps it shiny for years.
 
Try out these products on scrap wood, not on the model!
 
Best of luck with your hull!
 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DecoArt-Multi-Purpose-Sealer-DS17-236ml/261972030617?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
 
Test your paint/finish on scrap and not the model! I use cheap plywood or plywood offcuts to see how various things react. 

Yes, tack cloths are great, I use them as well. The alcohol rub is to remove any residual from the tack cloth, fingers or the mayo sandwich😁. Probably an overkill but painting a large hull is an equally big job, bit of a set back if it fails...

Wefalck, to get good coverage with acrylics you really need a dozen or more coats. Thicker paint does not increase coverage, it just increases the chance of messing things up and reduces the self levelling properties of the paint.
 
Bob, dry to wet means this: If you have a surface to paint, start on one side and paint a bit. Then continue working from the unpainted surface and ending to the previously painted segment so the two blend together. Do not rework the painted surface even if you see brush marks. If you have the right dilution and the right paint, the brush marks will disappear.
 
Have a look at the following pictures. Both boats shown are very large, 1:12 and 1:10 scale.
 
This is gloss blue enamel, only 2 coats, 6h apart I think. Great coverage and depth of colour. No brush marks! The boat is about 50+cm long

 
This is Valejo acrylic, can't remember how many coats but they were many, 15 min part. Brush paint, no brush marks! The planks in this hull are 70+ cm long

This is the same hull with Valejo matt polyurethane varnish on the red and satin on blue. The brush marks are actually the matt medium in the varnish that did not distribute evenly, matt varnishes are very tempermental.

I am actually not good at all at painting. It is the modern paints and brushes that are so good. The Valejo hand brush thinner is very different than the airbrush one and has more stuff in than alcohol and water, it actually congeals. 
No ties with the company, I just like it a lot!

I did not like rattle cans Mark, too expensive, easy to put too heavy coats, needs a lot of masking and makes a mess. Acrylics dry incredibly fast (so they do not trap dust) but their coverage is very poor compared to enamels. I need 12 coats vs 2 for enamels. I always tell myself I ll use enamels and always end up with acrylics. The depth of colour is much greater with enamels. Use the brands' thinners, do not make your own. Valejo hand brush range is fantastic.

Hand brushing is a good alternative, quite satisfying as well!
I have only basic painting skills and do not want to use an airbrush. I have had excellent results with hand brushing using Valejo colours following these rules:
1. Use very good brushes, with appropriate width for the job
2. Thin the paint (should be runny but not like water), avoid heavy coats.
3. For Valejo, use the hand brushing thinner, different and better than the air brush thinner. It congeals if left so must have resin in it (this is what valejo claims so not easily reproduced at home). Get the 60 ml bottle, it is not expensive.
4. Use a bit of retarder.
5. Start from dry and end on wet. Take your time, you can go over the area 2-3 times. Avoid puddles at the edges.
6. Trust the paint! Do not go over again to "correct" or smooth out brush marks. They will disappear. You ll probably need a dozen or more coats either way.
7. Best to seal the wood, I use a water based wood sealer sanded to 400 grit
8. I use plastic pots with caps that seal pretty well and are cheap. The paint stays wet for months.
9. Use only frog tape or Tamiya tape or equivalent. The paint will bleed under ordinary masking tape or electricians tape.
10. Acrylic paint is not tough so needs to be protected with varnish or some topcoat
 
Hopefully these will be of help to some. May not work for all but I was able to paint my 80 cm hull with almost no brush marks.
 
Vaddoc

What a lovely boat Hakan!
Life has kept me away from MSW and my shipyard but I went through your entire log today though - very enjoyable! Lovely scale.
Great news regarding your health, I am so happy for you!
Re: equipment: just get what you want! I d go for the largest disc sander you can afford, if you do not already have one.
 
I am very interested to see how your planking with no spilling will go. Have you done any planning how the planks will run or just plank along? Do you taper the ends at the stem? Also, are you bevelling the edges of the planks? 
 
An advantage of CAD vs 2D is that all frame bevels are defined, inside and out and cut before hand so very little fairing is needed, if any.
 
On another note, I think I have a few hundred (could be thousands - I do not know) treenails about 0.8 mm sitting around. I need to check but if still where I last left them and you could use them I could post over. Save you draw plate time. 
 
Regards
Vaddoc