puckotred

I bought this model a couple of months ago, and the LED light works well. Even in daylight:
 

 

Well, I slept on it and decided I will start a build log within a couple of days.... Just because you asked so nicely James... 😋

Well, I slept on it and decided I will start a build log within a couple of days.... Just because you asked so nicely James... 😋

I bought this model a couple of months ago, and the LED light works well. Even in daylight:
 

 

You know it makes sense 🤣

Well, I slept on it and decided I will start a build log within a couple of days.... Just because you asked so nicely James... 😋

I bought this model a couple of months ago, and the LED light works well. Even in daylight:
 

 

I bought this model a couple of months ago, and the LED light works well. Even in daylight:
 

 

We're proud to announce that we reached a new agreement to have the license from Hermione's Association, allowing us to put back in the market our great Hermione Lafayette model.
Discover this astonishing model, as well as some related products like a specific figurines set to decorate the ship, a paints set with all the colors you need to complete this replica or our range of tools, at www.artesanialatina.net
You can also visit the website of the Hermione's Association to discover the great work they do: fregate-hermione.com
 
 
 

Thank you very much popeye!!!

Thank you very much popeye!!!

Thank you very much popeye!!!

Thank you very much popeye!!!

Thank you very much popeye!!!

considering the age of the log, it just wouldn't do to simply put a like on it.........you did a superb job on this tram!    it makes for a really sweet diorama!

Thanks Bob!

Oh you guys... ☺️
 
Thank you for the kind words....

This is what I did waiting for shipments of DeAgostinis Vasa:
 
The lisboa Tram and the Diorama by Occre.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
My Iphone is not happy with the yellow color of the tram....

Thanks for visiting and the likes.
At last  -  some progress. 
Lower deadeyes, chains and channels fitted.
This was my fourth attempt.
Not very authentic but I need to finish this kit
and get on to something else.
Ended up ditching the brass wire provided by OcCre
and replaced with (eventually) soft copper, uncoated.
The end result is shown below.
As I said  -  not authentic but neither is a lot of this kit.
Still some odd bits to fix then the hull is finished.
 
Regards,
Sam.
 

Maybe try to export the object as a .Obj file and load it to the slicer. BTW, what slicer program are you using? So far I found LycheeSlicer to be the best free program. It does a good job finding islands and faults in the model. I printed my Bounty cannons straight up with the muzzel against the print plate. Though I modelled the cannons in Cinema4d.
 
Edit:
Also there is a BIG difference in resin quality... went through some brands before I found one that works ok with smaller items...

 
Edit again; I'm printing in resin,,,

Bay...bathwater... sound familiar?
I received my "serving machine" in the post and have redone my serving - so much better than my manual efforts so the previously made served rigging has been dumped.  
I have fitted out the bowsprit with Fore and preventer stay deadeyes and the Bobstay deadeye as well as lashing the jib boom to the bowsprit.
I have also bee busy with the deck fitting, features, structures but they remain unfinished as I am loathe to paint everything red per the instructions.  I will have to do more reading before committing to painting everything.
I have also temporarily fitted wooden hoops to the foremast and bowsprit using white heat shrink.  Only coloured with a caramel marker to see what they look like (waiting for some paint).
Planking continues.  I have got to the point where straight planks are no longer working to I will need to start tapering at bow and stern.

Another day and some more challenges to tackle.  Today I set about replacing the oversized d spritsail support with a correct sized (and correct mounting) support for the Foremast lower yard.
I used 3/16" bendable tube, 1mm rod and 1/16x1/32 flat bar brass for the components.  A 1mm hole was drilled into the tube and bar which were then cut to length and filed (the bar was bent around a former slightly smaller than the final resting point on the yard before being cut to length).
I then soldered the rod into the tube, cleaned up the joint and then mounted on the yard by drilling a 1mm hole into the yard so the final assembly was fixed in the right position when the tube/rod was pushed through the bar into the yard.  Photo attached.
Final fixing was with CA.  
I also used the 1/16x1/32 bar for the brass collars on the first anchor formed with needle nose pliers and the join soldered, before cleaning and chemically blackening. 

Well I made some changes on the Foremast I had already made to Artesania's instructions.  The Fore Topmast (before per Artesania instructions  and after) and the modified Fore Topgallant Mast are shown.  The new Topmast is made from Tasmanian Oak and to the design of Marquardt.  I have also been making some adjustments to the Lower Mast section but having already assembled with Cheeks, Cross tree Platform etc I was loathe to throw 'baby out with the bathwater'.  The variations were minor in nature. 

I have moved along a little with ENDEAVOUR having started on the planking.   PORT JACKSON was done by wetting timber and bending over a soldering iron.  After finding that putting the timber strip in very hot water for a short while, I could achieve a nice even bend without the need to use a soldering iron which unfortunately can burn the inside of the curve.  This ship is also much bigger and requires three planks per row rather than a single plank.  So far I am following the Artensania instructions but I'm not sure I am going to stick to that as all the joins are close together which I am sure would not have been prototypical.I also did my first yard and although it meets the Artesania design, I feel is is in no way prototypical.
 

Ok onto my second build and I expect this one will be a little more of a challenge than PORT JACKSON.
 
The framework was a little loose so I had to be rather careful in assembly to ensure the frames not only lay flat but also symmetrical about the centreline and had the right space at the deck level for the beams to be fitted later.
Laying the deck was a relatively simple process having previously marked the centrelines on the false deck I laid full lengths of the 0.5mm strip material after rubbing the edges with a permanent black marker.  I chose to insert perimeter planks (not sure what these are actually called) so that the deck planks did not end in sharp points at the bulwark.  The plank joints and nails were marked by a 0.1mm permanent ink marker.
As can be seem in the picture, I had lots of time to spare while glue dried so I started work on the Foremast.  The mast pieces were turned in a mini lathe tapered by holding sandpaper on each side to support the material under pressure and runs the sandpaper up and down the tapered length until the diameters were met.  The squaring was achieved by marking a square on the end of the material and then running lines down the length and then sand to the lines.
It was at this point that I noted that some of the work done by ENDEAVOUR builders in the past reveal some potential errors in the Artesania kit so I bout the Parkin book but alas it does not provide sufficient detail on masts and yards.  It does however reveal some missing features in the deck which I will have to mark and amend.