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casper1961

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Posts posted by casper1961

  1. Hey Pierre

     

    Glad to hear you are well and that it was as in my case, simply life getting in the way of our hobbies.

     

    I too, find myself ready to move this summer, hopefully for the last time for many years. I'm trying to set myself up for my retirement.....or later years as it will probably be more like. I find myself either buying or building as well.

     

    Take care...good to hear from you and i look forward to your continued log.

     

    Cheers

    Steve

  2. I myself haven't progressed since I first posted here. Life seemed to get in the way as it has a habit of doing.

     

    I still have 7 or more tall ships kits to build including finishing the HMS Serapis. Instead of golfing when/if I ever retire, this will be what occupies my time among other things.

     

    I hope these posts find their way to my co-poster Pierre aka PMG and that hehis health is fine and he is doing well and was able to complete his build.

     

    I look forward to hearing from all.

     

    Cheers

    Steve

  3. Hey Sherry...I saw your posting regarding the results or lack of so far in casting the cannons.

     

    For this size casting I definitely would be painting the resin on both sides of the mould, (if you made your mould properly, you should have a fairly good size reservoir to use) Why?

     

    Once you have painted both sides of the mould with resin, and "slap" the 2 parts together, in your case I would stand the mould vertically and pour some leftover resin in the reservoir and squeeze the mould halves together like you are giving it CPR, squeezing the air out and drawing the resin into the mould, pumping it vigorously. This is if you do not degas the resin with a vacuum chamber or vibration.

     

    This usually works very well...messy?...can be!

     

    How many barrels do you have in your mould? If you have several, this comes in handy in that you may have 4 in the mould and each casting get 1 to 2 that are perfect...still better than carving each....as you do more of this you will find little tricks that make it work better each time.

     

    How long do you have for setup time before the resin starts to turn solid? 5 minutes? 10 minutes?

     

    Steve

  4. Ok ok ok! Seems like you all missed the essence of Sherry's question about the "NAUTICAL" term for spindle. Now a spindle is a baluster, and a spindle/railing and newel post = a balustrade. But these were Architectural terms from a long time ago. Now, a spindle on a ship is not a baluster...it is a point that something rotates around like a capstan rotates on a spindle and the pins used to manually rotate a capstan may also be referred to as a spindle. So, let me put it out there again, is there a truly nautical term for a baluster other than baluster?

     

    BTW my term "spindle aye" means spindle yes! And it was meant as a joke! ha ha!  lol

     

    Cheers

    Steve   ps carry on freaking us out Sherry!

  5. I would agree the postings above this, and go make an RTV rubber mould and resin casting. I would only make the one mould for now, but I would buy several, around 5 canon  barrels and make the mould hold all five. Then you are only having to make about 20 castings. Tips when casting..You can vibrate the bubbles out of resin while in the mould if the mould is set vertically as the bubbles with rise to the top or make your self a homemade vacuum chamber using a clear fairly strong container that you can make a connection to your vacuum cleaner hose. This helps draw the bubbles out better than vibration. Having a clear plastic or glass (I used a large mason jar for mine attached to a refrigerator compressor with a surgical hose attached to a little pipe glued through the lid) having the container clear allows you to watch and regulate how long you need the suction. 

     

    Steve

  6. Hey Sherry

     

    If you want to go wood, another idea could be to purchase a small drill press for a hand drill. I used to see them on sale occasionally at Canadian Tire. You could use that to hold the hand drill and basically set it up as vertical lathe by fixing a centre pin on the base to steady while turning.

     

    If you want to cast, I have done many moulds using RTV rubber purchased at local hobby stores for around $30. I would buy a barrel or carve one to use as the original plug. Cast as per Belco's posting and make a mould. You could either use metal or I would use polyester resin and cast as many as you need. That would be far less labour intensive than carving 100+ cannons. Buy a single 1/96 cannon barrel for around $2 plus shipping and use it as your plug.

     

    Hope this helps

     

    Steve

  7. Hey Sherry

     

    Why not buy some wood dowel, same as the maximum diameter and file and sand them down with a drill...cut them 1/2" longer to fit into the chuck, If you make a stand for the drill that would give you hands free...and you could make the stand so that it has another centre with a pin to hold the other end of the dowel to hold it steady while turning...a Dremel might even work better....I'm kind of thinking as I type.

     

    When the barrels are turned, then stain....

     

    Just a thought...

    Steve

  8. Hi All

     

    I just wanted to let you all know the fleet just grew by 1....No I didn't have a baby! Well not unless you call Mamoli's Friesland my new baby? 

     

    So add this to the to-do list, not sure where in the pecking order but I am sure I will enjoy building her!

     

    Well, deer season is over for me for another year, the deer win again! Blast! Time to get back to the hobby table (kitchen table actually) and get back to work on the Serapis...

     

    More to come over the Christmas break...no miracles here but I do plan on doing some more work on the gunports etc.

     

    Cheers 

  9. Hi

     

    If anyone could help me locate a set of plans for the Mamoli FRIESLAND kit MV24 that would be greatly appreciated.

     

    I am missing the sheet that has page 4 on one side and page 5 on the back.

     

    So I am really only looking for either the one sheet printed both sides or possibly pdf's of each side and I will get them printed locally.

     

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

     

    Thanks

    Steve

  10. Hey Denis

     

    Nice work! Looks great!

     

    Did you know this is called a "Flemish Coil" or "Flemish Flake" ? Some refer to it as flaking the lines!

     

    I have knot found the origins of this process but it looks nice. It does have its draw backs in reality. I makes for the lines getting dirty and walked over and can leave coil marks on the decking if left for very long. I think this is usually a temporary solution for dealing with the lines, maybe for show when on parade or something! 

     

    As a kid who grew up on boats,. it was always something I liked to do whenever we docked! LOL

     

    Cheers

    Steve

  11. I'm 1.5 hrs from the Eastern edge of Algonquin Pk. My son and I frequently go interior camping at Traverse Lk., Achray Lk. and Sec Lk. Beautiful area that I get to use my cedar strip canoe. We were just getting ready to head out on the water when my son spotted this little fawn swimming toward us, obviously distressed, came within 5 feet of my son's outstretched hand! Unbelievable! Enjoy....Steve44360_487767183241_4687999_n.jpg

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