Bedford

The rowlock bases are made and fitted, it's moments like this I really wish I had much smaller and more accurate machining capabilities.
I was able to do some on the machine thankfully but the final shaping was done by hand and even at this scale the bases are too small to drill all the screw holes and fit brass nails as screws but after fitting them I realised I could have just drilled small holes and put the shaft of the pin in to represent the screw heads. Too late now.
 
I drilled a 1.5mm hole down through a piece of 3mm brass then used the Dremel cutting wheel in the mill to open the hole up then using the same wheel I cut that edge off the stock and into 6mm lengths for the pivot holes which were then soldered to two layers of 0.25mm brass plate bent at right angles then soldered together to give the 0.5mm thickness required. 
 
Next onto the rowlocks themselves
 

Looking good John, working at ANMM is a bit of a two edged sword isn't it.

That sounds interesting but I'm crewing Waratah that day. 
 
I am however taking the boat to the Davistown regatta this weekend

I'm betting you love it John, nice when others value your work.

Nice work on the rowlocks - particularly given your lack of machine tools, fine work indeed.

Hi Steve,
 
lovely work, & it's great how a model is every bit as fascinating as a full sized boat. I'll be following along with great interest for the rest of the ride.
 
PS If you are interested, the Balmain Regatta Sunday week has a waterman's boat event, I'm entering & launching across the bay at Woolwich....be in touch if you are interested, we could meet & row across together
 
all the best,
Mark

The rowlock bases are made and fitted, it's moments like this I really wish I had much smaller and more accurate machining capabilities.
I was able to do some on the machine thankfully but the final shaping was done by hand and even at this scale the bases are too small to drill all the screw holes and fit brass nails as screws but after fitting them I realised I could have just drilled small holes and put the shaft of the pin in to represent the screw heads. Too late now.
 
I drilled a 1.5mm hole down through a piece of 3mm brass then used the Dremel cutting wheel in the mill to open the hole up then using the same wheel I cut that edge off the stock and into 6mm lengths for the pivot holes which were then soldered to two layers of 0.25mm brass plate bent at right angles then soldered together to give the 0.5mm thickness required. 
 
Next onto the rowlocks themselves
 

The rowlock bases are made and fitted, it's moments like this I really wish I had much smaller and more accurate machining capabilities.
I was able to do some on the machine thankfully but the final shaping was done by hand and even at this scale the bases are too small to drill all the screw holes and fit brass nails as screws but after fitting them I realised I could have just drilled small holes and put the shaft of the pin in to represent the screw heads. Too late now.
 
I drilled a 1.5mm hole down through a piece of 3mm brass then used the Dremel cutting wheel in the mill to open the hole up then using the same wheel I cut that edge off the stock and into 6mm lengths for the pivot holes which were then soldered to two layers of 0.25mm brass plate bent at right angles then soldered together to give the 0.5mm thickness required. 
 
Next onto the rowlocks themselves
 

Thanks, I've now pulled the pins and reduced the size of the heads so it looks better. The pics made them look huge!

The rowlock bases are made and fitted, it's moments like this I really wish I had much smaller and more accurate machining capabilities.
I was able to do some on the machine thankfully but the final shaping was done by hand and even at this scale the bases are too small to drill all the screw holes and fit brass nails as screws but after fitting them I realised I could have just drilled small holes and put the shaft of the pin in to represent the screw heads. Too late now.
 
I drilled a 1.5mm hole down through a piece of 3mm brass then used the Dremel cutting wheel in the mill to open the hole up then using the same wheel I cut that edge off the stock and into 6mm lengths for the pivot holes which were then soldered to two layers of 0.25mm brass plate bent at right angles then soldered together to give the 0.5mm thickness required. 
 
Next onto the rowlocks themselves
 

The rowlock bases are made and fitted, it's moments like this I really wish I had much smaller and more accurate machining capabilities.
I was able to do some on the machine thankfully but the final shaping was done by hand and even at this scale the bases are too small to drill all the screw holes and fit brass nails as screws but after fitting them I realised I could have just drilled small holes and put the shaft of the pin in to represent the screw heads. Too late now.
 
I drilled a 1.5mm hole down through a piece of 3mm brass then used the Dremel cutting wheel in the mill to open the hole up then using the same wheel I cut that edge off the stock and into 6mm lengths for the pivot holes which were then soldered to two layers of 0.25mm brass plate bent at right angles then soldered together to give the 0.5mm thickness required. 
 
Next onto the rowlocks themselves
 

Nice metalwork, Bedford.

Thanks, mate.  I see working at the museum as a good opportunity to 'spread the word' about our wonderful hobby.  A lot of people who stop to chat are really interested.
 
John

The rowlock bases are made and fitted, it's moments like this I really wish I had much smaller and more accurate machining capabilities.
I was able to do some on the machine thankfully but the final shaping was done by hand and even at this scale the bases are too small to drill all the screw holes and fit brass nails as screws but after fitting them I realised I could have just drilled small holes and put the shaft of the pin in to represent the screw heads. Too late now.
 
I drilled a 1.5mm hole down through a piece of 3mm brass then used the Dremel cutting wheel in the mill to open the hole up then using the same wheel I cut that edge off the stock and into 6mm lengths for the pivot holes which were then soldered to two layers of 0.25mm brass plate bent at right angles then soldered together to give the 0.5mm thickness required. 
 
Next onto the rowlocks themselves
 

The rowlock bases are made and fitted, it's moments like this I really wish I had much smaller and more accurate machining capabilities.
I was able to do some on the machine thankfully but the final shaping was done by hand and even at this scale the bases are too small to drill all the screw holes and fit brass nails as screws but after fitting them I realised I could have just drilled small holes and put the shaft of the pin in to represent the screw heads. Too late now.
 
I drilled a 1.5mm hole down through a piece of 3mm brass then used the Dremel cutting wheel in the mill to open the hole up then using the same wheel I cut that edge off the stock and into 6mm lengths for the pivot holes which were then soldered to two layers of 0.25mm brass plate bent at right angles then soldered together to give the 0.5mm thickness required. 
 
Next onto the rowlocks themselves
 

The rowlock bases are made and fitted, it's moments like this I really wish I had much smaller and more accurate machining capabilities.
I was able to do some on the machine thankfully but the final shaping was done by hand and even at this scale the bases are too small to drill all the screw holes and fit brass nails as screws but after fitting them I realised I could have just drilled small holes and put the shaft of the pin in to represent the screw heads. Too late now.
 
I drilled a 1.5mm hole down through a piece of 3mm brass then used the Dremel cutting wheel in the mill to open the hole up then using the same wheel I cut that edge off the stock and into 6mm lengths for the pivot holes which were then soldered to two layers of 0.25mm brass plate bent at right angles then soldered together to give the 0.5mm thickness required. 
 
Next onto the rowlocks themselves
 

Yes Eberhard - you have to have done it to know how something as simple as a hawser pipe can turn out so tricky. All those compound angles make ones head ache.
Hopefully so John.
 
I wanted to get away from holes and I ended up doing even bigger ones. On the rear deck are 3 hatches. When I built Altair I somehow missed the deck hatches and when I realised it was too late to rectify. 
I carefully marked out the locations after establishing the positions from photographs. It took a bit of interpretation but I'm fairly sure about the result. 
Having marked the positions I drilled holes at the corners and widened these with a round file - the corners of the hatches have a circular profile. I then cut the sides carefully with a craft knife (supressing the worry that I would slip and wreck the deck).



I then laid up planks on a ply base and cut this up to form hatches. To create the definition at the edges of the hatches I glued black paper strips around the edge before insertion. The hatches are inserted in the next photo but not glued.

I then cut the notches to take the simulated hinges - to be installed at a later date. I then glued the hatches in place and sanded them back flush with the deck.

There are two further small hatches at the bow but I have only scant information on their shape and size. Only fragments of them appear on my photos. I think I will leave them out.
 

Bedford - The finish is absolutely exquisite - wonderful job.

And with that the last of the woodwork on the boat itself is finished!
 

Breast hook made and installed, interior is getting there!
 

The stanchions, bearers and cleats for the stern sheets are now in so the next job is varnishing everything I won't be able to get to once the planks are glued down 
 

Stern sheets made, now to do 4 more cleats for the sheet bearers then I can finish of this part of the build and varnish out the hull then glue all the sheet planks in. Then onto the breast hooks etc.
 

Bow sheets cut and bearers glued in, I have to varnish under the sheets before I can glue them in
 

I scraped the hull of the full size version while getting it on the trailer when I sailed it on Tuesday so I had to get the white paint out to effect the repair so while it was out...........
 

Thank you all for your comments, I have done the hawser pipe trick in previous builds and am sure to use it again - probably at the deck end of the pipe. 
I have spent a lot of time validating and marking out the deck fitting holes - currently about 80% done. The deck is now looking like it has a bad case of woodworm.

I can see that I am going to be very carful about inserting the correct fitting in the correct hole.
By far the most difficult holes to position were the aforementioned holes for the deck end of the hawser pipes. I used the hawser pipes mounted in the hull without the deck fitted to make a template and used this to mark put the position.

I drilled holes at both ends of the ellipse and opened these out and connected them with a needle file.


I am getting fed up with holes so may move on to something else for a break. I hope to catch up with all your builds over the next few days.