-
Posts
430 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by Katsumoto
-
Congratulations! Gorgeous model! Absolutely a labour of love.
- 510 replies
-
- reale de france
- corel
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
Hi Michael, Thank you very much for your nice comment! I will look forward to your next steps on your beautiful SoTS Thank you Kirill for leaving a comment on my model ship! I wish you a pleasant day! Peter
- 208 replies
-
- kitbashing
- Woodcarving
-
(and 4 more)
Tagged with:
-
Hi Eric, that's really weird. Let me look into it. The pictures are on my personal folder of a Dutch forum and should be seen here in my log. Did you had that same issue with my previous log?
- 30 replies
-
- Corel
- wappen von hamburg
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
The convoy ship Wappen von Hamburg 1669 - Corel SM28, scale 1:50 Hi everybody, I'll guess I'm going to attempt to build a Dutchmen, which is a first time. Some folks may read "Hamburg" in the title and think (Dutch?), Hamburg lies in Germany and not in The Netherlands. And you are absolutely 100% right, however this ship has been built by a Dutch master shipbuilder is by Dutch design. So welcome to my buildlog of this imposing Frigate and kit. The punk kid story... I remembered when I was a little kid, my parents took my sister and me out for shopping for clothes and stuff in the city of Rotterdam - The Netherlands. Living outside the city, my father always seem to parked his car just outside the shopping area, which means my sister and I had to walk a couple of blocks to reach the area where all the shops were. Passing certain streets and shops, one always grabbed my attention. It was a very small and old school wooden ship modeling shop. That means that the shop itself only sold wooden ship model kits and accessories for wooden ship modeling. When you entered the shop, the smell of woodworking was always around and the lights were dimmed a bit. On the shop's window the name of the shop was painted with a classical font and behind that the most beautiful historic ship models were displayed. Always 3 or more completely built models were displayed with one big model in the middle. The centerpiece so to say! My eyes rolled over the many decks and guns and couldn't get enough of it. The owner was a very pleasant and friendly "old" guy and was building the models himself in the back corner of the shop. It apparently made a "big" impression on me. My mother told me, that I was a bit young for building models like that, but perhaps when I'm older and still be interested, I could have a go with it. She was absolutely right! One day, passing the shop a new centerpiece ship was placed in the shop's window. It was the Wappen of Hamburg. An imposing vessel, big, lot's of guns, figures on the stern and with removable decks. Can you believe that, I mean, I'm talking about the mid / end '80's of the last century, that was unheard of in a kit! I was hooked and my parents had to drag me away from the window. I could stay there all day long imagining, dreaming building that model. I was 8 years old. The kit from Corel There is one wooden kit from the Wappen of Hamburg from 1667 - 1669 and that's Corel SM28 before Movo Milano. It's one of Corel's flagship kits and is a very luxurious edition. Corel stated that a lot of research went into designing this kit and that some of the unique selling points of this kit is it's historical accuracy, the high quality figures and ornaments, the choice of having removable decks, gratings and with a lot of shown interior features, all cannons are on carriages on all decks. That means full decks on all levels with real gun ports and lids. Size and measurements Length: 43 inches or 1100mm Width: 18 inches or 460mm Height: 36 inches or 910mm Scale: 1:50 On the box scale 1:40 is mentioned but all the drawings are in 1:50 scale which is the correct scale for this kit. The box and it's content When newly purchased and untouched, the box and it contents are displayed in the pictures below. As been said, it's a luxurious kit with a lot of high quality "walnut" wood and die-cast ornaments and figures. The die-cast metal ornaments are really beautiful and detailed. It's really impressive to see how good they are looking. The history of the ship and her destiny At the end of the Hanseatic trading period, which was a military trade group by origin, the Hanseatic city of Hamburg did not have its own warships. These ships were actually needed to protect the merchant fleet against the ongoing and growing threat of pirates and competitors. The idea of having own warships to protect the fleet, arose in 1663. These ships would be built by a Dutch master shipbuilder and according to Dutch designs. At that time, the Dutch were the most dominant trading nation in the world which prospers the shipbuilding activities. The plan was to start with two ships, so called sister ships called the Leopoldus Primus and the Wappen von Hamburg. However it appeared that there was a lot of disagreement over financing responsibilities and after a long period of debate the Hamburg Admiralty finally decided in 1667 to start construction of these two ships. Both ships were commissioned in 1669. The construction of both ships was carried out under the supervision of the Hamburg Admiralty under the direction of an unknown Dutch shipbuilder. The flagship of Lieutenant-Admiral Maarten Tromp which was a famous Dutch admiral, called Aemelia from 1632 https://nl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aemilia_(flagship) is mentioned in professional literature as an example and model for both ships. The Wapen von Hamburg is the first of four convoy ships to bear this name. She was built at the Theerhof shipyard in Hamburg. The ship was not allowed to have excessive draft, otherwise it would have problems safely passing the shallow parts of the River Elbe, and especially the Altona sand. Because the shipbuilder knew, based on the knowledge available at the time, that a wide ship with low masts had more stiffness and strength to keep itself upright in a turbulent sea, and a narrow ship with high masts, on the other hand, sailed faster, the Wappen von Hamburg opted for a combination of both properties. This gave it a good compromise between stability and sailing speed and could pass the Elbe river. In the evening hours of the 10th of October 1683, a fire broke out for unknown reasons in the lower room of the ship's forecastle. This expanded rapidly and, despite all efforts, could no longer be adequately accommodated by the resources on board. The crew tried to get to safety in the lifeboats, but was ordered by Admiral Karpfanger to return to the fire and to try to extinguish it. At the same time, signal shots were fired to signal surrounding ships to send emergency firefighting teams. When the fire spread through the deck to the foremast and immediately set fire to the rigging and sails due to an unfavorable wind, the rowing helpers kept a safe distance for fear of an explosion of the gunpowder room. Karpfanger had his son, who was traveling with him, taken off board, who had earlier appealed to his father to leave the ship with him to keep both lives safe. However, Karpfanger did not want to consider the loss of the ship just yet. It was suggested that they shoot a puncture in the hull and allow the ship to fill with water and sink to the seabed - but Karpfanger refused. Finally, he agreed to try to beach the ship and had the ship's anchor ropes cut so that the ship could run aground near the shore. Abandoning ship was in any case out of the question for Karpfanger: he saw himself bound by the oath he had taken on the 14th of July 1674 before the Senate of Hamburg, which instructed him to "stand manfully in defense of the fleet entrusted to him and rather to to use good and blood, to sacrifice life and limb than to abandon her and his ship. As the convoy ship slowly drifted towards the coast, the fire below deck moved increasingly towards the stern, where the gunpowder room was also located. Towards midnight the fire reached some of the guns at the stern, which ignited themselves and fired volleys. At the same time, some grenades on board also ignited. An hour after midnight, after the ship had burned for five hours and Admiral Karpfanger, true to his oath, was still the last man on board, the fire reached the gunpowder room, which eventually exploded. The back of the ship, which was broken in the middle, flew into the air, the front lay on its side and began to sink. Debris rained down from a great height. The accident resulted in 65 deaths: 22 soldiers and 42 ships men, as well as Admiral Karpfanger were killed. His body was found floating in the water on an anchor line of an English ship in the harbor of Cadiz on October 11, 1683. On the picture below the Wappen von Hamburg (left) and the Leopoldus Primus (right) is displayed. Luxurious but notorious This kit is famous and notorious at the same time. The quality of all the components are superb and the features of this ship excellent. However when you look at the "building" aspect of this kit and the way the modeler is being "guided" by the help of the construction manual and the dozen drawings does has it's challenges. It's an old kit. developed in the late 70's and never updated as far as I can tell. Corel expects that the builder of this kit knows all the basic things to make a model ship and to craft all the items needed. Little or no step by step pictures are added with this kit. The drawings are of good quality but it shows only parts of the ship, not the complete process on how to actually build her. That means that a lot of questions will arise for the modeler. Perhaps that's why there are so few finished buildlogs on the internet. People strand a lot during the build of this giant, and it's developed a reputation of a hard to build ship. When a modeler decides to pick a new project and looks at the variety of ship kits and compare the prices of these kits, the Wappen von Hamburg is at the very top of the range. With the bad building reputation it has, a high purchase price and the abundant choice of other kits, it's lost her glance and popularity. I think this is a sad conclusion and hopefully with this buildlog I can inspire others to build this unique and magnificent ship. A picture below shows the inscription on one of the cast metal parts. This was cast in '78 by Movo! The drawings and instruction manual are shown below. Although the drawings are of high quality, only the end result of a product to craft is shown. Then the modeler should somewhat guess where the crafted item should go on the model because the drawings are not always clear on that part. The written text in the instruction manual isn't always helping either so I think that there is a lot to win by Corel if these instructions and drawings are updated and brought to standards of today. I'm sure this will benefit the sales and popularity of this kit. "Dutch Ebay" and plan A On the "Dutch Ebay" called marktplaats (translation is marketplace) a second hand kit of WvH was offered. I wasn't really looking for this particular kit, but it came up and somehow I was triggered. I guess my childhood memories and sentiment took over. I reached out to the seller and apparently the hull was already completely built. He showed me a few pictures and at the beginning I hesitated to go on with the purchase. I have this principle that I love to rescue kits from Ebay that otherwise been thrown away, however the kit should be in pristine condition, unbuilt and "untouched" so to say. It's just that I don't like to continue other men's work with respect to the previous builder, I just want to start from the beginning to have the full experience. Call me weird, I don't mind... So the hull was built and again with respect to the builder, it didn't fit my expectations....take a look. Below a few pictures of the way it was built with a lot of gaps and cracks. The kit was complete and everything was there. I was pretty honest to the seller, that it lost most of it's value due to the fact that the complete hull was already done. The owner almost gave it away due to the fact he inherited the kit and it was in his way. It took a lot of space in his house. So I decided to purchase the kit and had the idea to carefully demolish the hull, order new wood and simply start over! Hold that idea, it turned out a bit differently.... Arriving back home with the kit and the hull, (The Netherlands is a small country, so it was easy to drive to the seller and pick up the kit) I opened the box and inspected all the items inside. Beneath a few items I found some glue tubes which were almost empty. Epoxy glue, some UHU hard glue and the last one was CA glue.... Alarm bells went off inside my head! I could only think, "please don't let this hull being glued with this stuff"....boy was I in for a treat.....you probably are going to guess what's next? The first try to get one of the hull planks of the bulkheads resulted in a mess. The glue residue was glass hard and it was used all over in a very abundance of amount. I think the previous modeler must have thought that it should be glued together forever...I don't know but the carefully "take it apart" approach ended into a total demolish and destruction of the hull. I tried everything from using heat, chemicals like acetone, white spirit, hot water, glue remover etc. nothing worked! With pain in my heart I had no choice and had to throw away all the nice hardwood used for this ship. The bulkheads that appeared underneath the hull planks were poorly placed and faired wrong. Also the bulkheads were beyond repair due to all the glue residue and wrongly fairing. These need to be replaced as well... While closing the lid of the trashcan, I realized I also discarded plan A which lies with all the broken pieces of wood inside the trashcan. Woodglue! I would like to reach out to all my fellow modelers and advice to please use woodglue like the normal white woodglue. The stuff is made for this purpose and it's great. Sure, the people living in the USA also have an abundance variety of wood glue's and the easy access to yellow wood glue like Titebond. Both are great and more important easy to repair with afterwards. By applying heat, the white and yellow wood glue becomes soft and so you can easily make repairs or redo parts afterwards. Normal white wood glue dries fast, has great strength and dries up transparent and glue residue can easily removed with a damp cloth. The brand I use is a local brand called Bison. After it had dried it holds some of flexibility, so when humidity let the wood of your model shrink or expand a little bit, the glue can cope with this and doesn't crack or let the wood crack. CA glue can help, sure. I use it as a liquid nail on certain difficult spots, so to say but very sparingly. Sure, you can't glue metal parts with wood glue and perhaps an epoxy glue or CA gel would be best, not for wood on wood. Hell, I even use diluted wood glue with a syringe to apply it to knots on my rigging work. Works great! I'm just saying, I love my white wood glue. Out of frustration I forgot to take pictures of the before stage of the hull....I'm sorry! After the demolishment, I was just left with al lot of parts... Plan B: Because I left Plan A, it's time for plan B. I had this idea to remodel all the bulkheads from the plans and use new plywood for the bulkheads. Then I would replace the lost Walnut with swiss pear! Sounds like a plan to me and so I took a short trip to my nearest modeling shop and returned with all the needed plywood and some pear veneer. I redrew all the bulkheads on paper. Apparently I was out of white paper and "borrowed" some pink and green paper from my kids stash. They wouldn't mind I guess....and again they were in bed sleeping at the time. The cutting list I made a list of all the missing strips of walnut to replace them with pearwood. On my Proxxon tablesaw I cut all the needed strips. It took me a while to work trough the entire list. Let's say I made a lot of dust and the Admiral wisely said to do this outdoors instead in the living room. I guess I didn't need to push the limits here. Call me a wimp! While working out this plan I had more and more doubts. I did not completely agree with the shape of the bulkheads and the lines of the ship. Besides I saw all kind of points for improvement to make the ship look “more Dutch”. In addition, replicating all the gun ports as Corel had designed would be a hell of a job with my limited resources. I eventually decided to throw this plan in the proverbial trash bin as well, which was already starting to become quite full... Because I was momentarily without inspiration, I decided to put the project on ice and think things over. Eventually I decided to completely left the project and started focusing on something else.... The rise and development of plan C While working on my previous project (Xebec 1750) and I was already in the preparations (research) of a new project, the Wappen von Hamburg kept nagging at my head. Somehow I couldn't quite let go of the project and started searching the internet for some inspiration. During this research I came across a booklet by Wolfgang Quinger about the Wappen von Hamburg and ordered it out of curiosity. After a few days the doorbell rang and I received the booklet. It is an old book, pages completely yellowed and fragile, it even smells old and according to the publisher it was published in the former GDR, East Germany, in the early 1980s. It was of course written in German and to my knowledge has not been published in any other language. In addition to a wealth of information, the booklet contained a completely different treasure, namely two large drawings printed on both sides with, yes, a complete plan of all the frames on a scale of 1:75. Quinger himself describes in his book that he has consulted many sources, mentions and praises them all. Some well known sources are N. Witsen, C. van Ijck, R. Hoeckel, H. Winter, W. Mondfeld, F.H. Chapman, R.C. Anderson. He himself says that the reconstructions of some well-known ships liken the Friedrich W. Zu Pferde, Derfflinger and Roter Löwe, among others, designed by Hoeckel quickly gained name and fame, but that the very thorough research of Mr. Friedrich Jorbergs led to more than 80 adjustments to Hoeckel's earlier reconstructions. One of these adjustments was that Hoeckel used the Amsterdam dimensions (Amsterdam foot) and Jorbergs the Rotterdam dimensions (Rotterdam foot). Later in this report I will explain why this is important and is essential for the lines plan and proportions of the ship! Quinger made a new reconstruction of the lines plan based on all the information he gathered. With his plan he explains that he had made a compromise between Hoeckel's plan based on Amsterdam dimensions and Witsen's. It is a shape that could well have suited this ship and is therefore more truthful than the shape that Corel has chosen for the WvH. The more I immersed myself in the design, the more it started to appeal to me. Slowly a new plan formed in my head….Plan C! Plan C After extensively studying the frame plan and the rest of the drawings, I decided to use parts from the Corel kit on the hull shape of Quinger. The advantage for me is that Quinger's design fits more with all the points that I would have liked to adjust from the kit. It solves many questions and puzzles for me, but it also brings completely new challenges for me. Quinger's drawings and therefore also the plans are on a scale of 1:75 and the Corel kit is 1:50. This means that I have to convert the drawings to a different scale and then completely scratchbuild all the frames. All things I've never done before. My interest in seeking out the unknown and taking on the challenge grew more and more... I can't wait. In short, this means the following work: - Increase the frame plan from 1:75 to 1:50 - Reconstruct keel plate, keel, transom, decks, guns and bow according to Quinger's plan; - Use a different design for gun ports and bulwarks. - Change wood from Walnut to Pear wood - Cutting all hull planks, deck planks, deck beams, wall planks, knees, gunwales, arrangements, carriages, gun port lids, etc to size. - Underwater ship hull planking in a “Dutch” manner - Ornaments and decorations partly according to Corel with additions from myself; - Rigging and sails according to Quinger's plan - Flags according to Corel My overall conclusion so far is that a lot has ended up in the trashcan.... Chapter 1 - plan of scale 1:75 expand to 1:50 Due to the fragility of the books plans, I copied the plan of the lines of the hull by using plain A4 paper and a pencil. To enlarge the plan to the desired 1:50 scale, I need a bigger piece of paper. In this case, A3 format will suffice. Clamping is easy by securing the corners of the paper with tape. I made sure the sides of the paper are parallel to the lines on my cutting mat. This will help against the paper from sliding all over the place and I can use the grid of the mat to use for my horizontal and vertical lines. Having a professional drawing desk with the right equipment will make the job much easier. However I have to do it with a more primitive solution. I begin with drawing the grid on paper. Then place the dots on the paper where the lines of the plan crosses the grid. Eventually I connected the dots drawing the lines by hand. The more accurate I am in this stage, the less corrections I have to do on the actual bulkheads when fairing in a later stadium of the build. I start with the view on the bow, which is the right part from the middle. The left is the stern view. Both drawings next to each other. 1:75 on the left, the 1:50 on the right! Chapter 2 - the stern drawing Quinger made a nice drawing of the stern of the ship. I decided to copy that and to learn and experience the difference between Quinger's and Corel's design. On my computer I played around with some colors and this will give me an idea how the stern fully painted would look. It's a draft and I probably will change some things, but it just gives me an impression. Nothing more, nothing less. And that's it for the introduction and first few babysteps into a new project. I hope you will like this new endeavour of mine and hopefully you will follow me along. It's not that I aim for 100% historical accuracy, but I would like to build the ship the way I like it. I would really appreciate that due to the fact I'm in uncharted territory and can use all the help I can get to finish this project. Until the next update, see yah around, Peter
- 30 replies
-
- Corel
- wappen von hamburg
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
Thank you very much Michael! Appreciated. Hope you liked the pictures! Hi Bob, Still in debate with myself on my next project, but I made some preparations / sketches of my "probably future" / next build. If I'm up for the challenge though, it's a tough ship and I'm not sure if I have all the required skills. I'll give you a teaser..... I had to increase the scale from 1:75 to 1:50 and drew this by hand from existing plans. When I'm ready with all the preparations, I'll open a log and start with the build.
- 208 replies
-
- kitbashing
- Woodcarving
-
(and 4 more)
Tagged with:
-
Thans guys for all the credits and support. Really appreciate it! I put my heart and soul into this model and have a bit of a bittersweet feeling. I’m very happy she is finished don’t get me wrong, however I did love working on her every minute and I wil mis that. I will come back with a new project, after I finish some small house projects. Thanks again! Peter
- 208 replies
-
- kitbashing
- Woodcarving
-
(and 4 more)
Tagged with:
-
Hello friends, Today I post the final and promissed update. It's the photoshoot and the nameplate that's been made. Well here we go and sit down for a lot of pictures and I hope you like them.... Regards, Peter En dan de eindfoto's...
- 208 replies
-
- kitbashing
- Woodcarving
-
(and 4 more)
Tagged with:
-
Making the stand Hi guys, Although the ship is finished I still have to do a few things before I can call this project a success. First of the things I have to do is to make a proper stand. There are many great examples to find on the web, but I like a "simple" but elegant one. This will be a baseplate with two pedestals on it however in the near future I need to make a proper dustfree case. Dust is the enemy of all wooden models. Dust attract moist and hold most and this doesn't goes well with your model. So, do not worry, I will make a case, but that's for later. For now I start with the construction of both pedestals. I decided to make it all out of American or Black Walnut. I have a few boards on stock and it resembles the wood I used for the ship. So both the stand and the ship should complement each other, although that's the idea. I used my tablesaw to saw a piece of 25x25x100mm. I will use a lathe to get it from square to a round shape. I never used a lathe before and purchased the cheapest one from Proxxon I could find. It's just a test if the machine and I can become friends....some machines will be your enemy forever.... With a pencil it's fairly simple to draw a couple of lines. With some wood gauges I shaped the pedestals. Still need to make the slots to hold the keel of the ship. I cut these 90 degrees from the direction of the grain of the wood for strength. I know you probably can purchase these pedestals and perhaps even better ones or brass ones than I just made. For fun I tried the make these things myself and I liked the lathework! For the baseplate I used a very nice piece of solid walnut. However, the board I had was to thin to use, so I cut it into half and glued both pieces together with carpenters glue. I let the glued board cook overnight and the next day cleaned it all up on my table saw. I used a router to make a nice profile on the edge of the board. On the picture below I marked the glued edge between both boards. You can hardly see it. A dryfit of the pedestals on the board. After some measurements I glue both pedestals to the board. I also used a drill bit to drill a hole through the middle of both pedestals and the board to hold a bolt. When the ship is placed on the board, I use a bold / screw to fasten the ship to the stand. This also worked out perfectly. The marriage between the stand and the ship. I must say....the both complement each other and it worked out perfectly. The nameplate and the photoshoot is all that is left to do..... See you soon, Peter
- 208 replies
-
- kitbashing
- Woodcarving
-
(and 4 more)
Tagged with:
-
I want to thank all you guys who have stand by me during the build and just now to leave such nice comments. Thank you very much!!!!
- 208 replies
-
- kitbashing
- Woodcarving
-
(and 4 more)
Tagged with:
-
The final chapter.... Hello everybody, As you can see this will be the last building chapter of this model. She is finished! It has been a journey and the end is a bit bittersweet. Sure I'm proud I finished this model and the way it came out, but on the other hand it was a real joy to work on her and by finishing the build, this stops... However, it's not entirely finished, I still need to make a presentabele stand and a complete photoshoot has to be done as well. This is for later... For now let me take you on the final steps of the build of the mizzenmast, sail and rigging. After sewing on the boltrope, I attached the sail to her yard. While under tension, I used boiled potato starch on the cloth and some sugar in a plastic bag to bring the sail to shape. It takes about 12-24 hours to dry and then the sail holds it's final shape. To hoist the yard, I needed to fabricate the ramshead blocks. In this case this was not an easy job to do. On this scale 1:60, they are really, really small and I wanted to make these blocks the same as the others. So with working sheeves and all...... The upper block is 2mm in width, with sheeves of 2mm in diameter and 0,5mm thick. Again the process is similair as the other blocks and are made out of laminated 0.5mm veneer strips. When a knife is sharp enough, slices can be cut of the upper block to get to the right size. I somehow lost the photo of the final product, ah well....they are the same as the others but smaller. Here you see them installed on the ship. While working on the ship all kinds of hazards and dangers came up her path. In this case a big black and white one who seems to love attention and playing with scale ropes..... No worries, we are good friends and we have a very good mutual understanding. Touching the ship shortens lifes rapidly.... Some kitparts are not needed anymore and are thrown into the bin.... Back on rigging....The principle of the mizzenyard / sail is the same as the two others, however the masthead contains only two sheeves instead of four. Both are used to hoist the yard. Also the parrel is different and much easier constructed. In this case only the trunks (beads) are used. The end of the parrel is tied off beneath the mast foot. And then the end result. So a final photoshoot will occur soon, but in the mean time this is how she looks! I have tried to push my limits with the construction of this ship and can say that I succeeded. Pretty much everything about the kit has been changed and I can easily estimate a little over 2500 hours of work that went into this model. Not all hours are construction hours. I suspect I've spent over 250 hours of research and study just trying to figure out specifics about this type of ship. Unfortunately, generalities are known, but the details are missing from these types of ships and there is also very little documentation to be found. Everything is made by hand, the carvings of course gives an extra special character to this ship. The sails and rigging are fully in accordance with a famous French Xebec from the 18th century called Le Requin, the museum model Singe of 1762. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_xebec_Singe_(1762) I am also very happy and blessed with you guys as followers who have accompanied and assisted me on this adventure. Thank you so much for the interest, reactions, likes, loves and especially support. Thank you!!! I hope you will follow me again on the next journey. I have already done a lot of research for this model and that project will also be quite a challenge. The next update will be a photoshoot with a lot of pictures.... The end. Peter
- 208 replies
-
- kitbashing
- Woodcarving
-
(and 4 more)
Tagged with:
-
The rigging of the main sail is done, it was a race against the clock but it's done before my vacations starts (tomorrow) After my vacation I can start on the Mizzen mast / sail.
- 208 replies
-
- kitbashing
- Woodcarving
-
(and 4 more)
Tagged with:
-
Hi Paul, Thanks for your comment, hope you enjoy my build and this log.
- 208 replies
-
- kitbashing
- Woodcarving
-
(and 4 more)
Tagged with:
-
Main sail and Parrel Hi guys, Last week and weekend I've been working very hard on this project. It's a tedious job with all these ropes, blocks, stitching sails, boltropes and so on. You all know the work that's into making models. I've done so many little things, that its hard to mention it all. So let met start with the attachment of boltrope. It's a 0.6mm rope and I need the thinnest needle I can find to get the threat through one of the three threats of the rope. Then I push the needle through the sail fabric and tighten the threat so the boltrope is secured against the edge of the seam of the sail. Using this technique, no threat is seen on the outside of the boltrope which I like. It's a bit more work, but details, details and more details it is for this build I guess. Then the preparations of the reef lines. The cloth is so thick at the place where the reef lines are attached to the sail, that I need a hammer to lightly tap on the head of the needle to get through the layers of cloth. When the end of the needle hits my cutting mat, I turn the sail upside down and push the needle, with the head on my cutting mat, through the cloth. In the end I've attached all the reef lines on the sail, attached all the needed blocks on the yard and attached the sail on the yard. Back to the ramshead block. To attach the lower block on the ship, a served rope is made where the ends are attached to rings and hooks. The hooks are then attached on rings that are located on deck behind the main mast. The lower and upper blocks are attached to each other due to a 0.6mm rope that's running through the sheaves of both blocks. A 0.9mm rope is looped through the top of the upper block and then goes through to both lower sheaves of the mast head. On the ends of the rope a pin is attached. This pin holds the weight of the entire yard. That means that the rope on the yard that will be attached to this pin, will be served for extra strength. This is seen on the second last photo. The next picture shows a sideview of the two ramshead blocks located left from the mast and show some of the details of the pair. Between the blocks a single sheave block is attached to the upper block. The function is simple, the upperblock has less sheaves then the lower block. So a block is placed between them to compensate. Another thing that clearly can be seen are the lines that goes through the back top of the lower block and are not behind the block. Sometimes the word insanity goes through my head to add these kind of details on this scale....😅 On the right side of the mast, the parrel tackle is located. The rope is attached to a violin block on the top and a single sheave block at the bottom which eventually ends in a hook that's attached to a ring that's located on deck in front of the mast. The end of the rope is attached to a cleat beside the parrel and located on the mast. The upper part of the parrel. It's the same as on the Foremast however this one has four tracks instead of three. I've used a double sheave block for the rope of the parrel to lash it around the yard. The last thing for this update is to secure the ends of the rope of the ramshead blocks on the cleats. Well, some things I did, didn't made it on the pictures, but I will show in the next update. The running rigging that will manage and control the main sail and yard are made next. This will be done after my vacation trip with my family. I wish you happy modeling the next days and thanks for taking time to read and respond in my log! Peter
- 208 replies
-
- kitbashing
- Woodcarving
-
(and 4 more)
Tagged with:
-
Hello friends, In my previous update I've finished the work on the Fore. Time to move on to the Main mast. The yard is lifted by two heavy ramshead blocks. The blocks have many sheaves to distribute the load. Below you see how I made these. All are handmade out of walnut. Re-used some of the pictures of the ramshead blocks of the foremast, because the process for making them is the same. I all begins with a 1:1 scale drawing of the two blocks. with a front view and side view. After this I cut the needed parts out of walnut strips of .6 and .8mm thickness. I re-use some of the pictures of the Foremast blocks. On the sides of the bottom block, two large cleats are attached. Let me show you in detail how I made these... The blocks are blackened with East-Indian Ink and after it dried finished with Danish Oil. Some of you guys swear by Clou, but it looks a bit to shiny to my liking... The sheaves of these blocks are made of .8mm thick walnut and 8mm in diameter. I reduced the diameter to 7mm and 4mm by hand.
- 208 replies
-
- kitbashing
- Woodcarving
-
(and 4 more)
Tagged with:
-
Hi Michael, Missed you lately, now I know why. 🙂 I hope we can get an update of your beautiful Sovereign of the Seas soon. She is a real eyecatcher for sure. All the modifications you’ve done. The lightning is really stunning as well. Thanks for the likes and cheers. See you soon! Peter
- 208 replies
-
- kitbashing
- Woodcarving
-
(and 4 more)
Tagged with:
About us
Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
SSL Secured
Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured
NRG Mailing Address
Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917
Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)
Helpful Links
About the NRG
If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.
The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.
The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.