olliechristo

Biggest help to me was someone that said fit it. fit it, fit it and make sure each plank is correct and by the way fit it again!!!!! Did we talk about fitting each plank yet??? SORRY ABOUT THAT.
 
Tom

Oh Jeez Im not sure Tom.. I hadn't even thought about that, but i know I do want to really take my time on the second planking... Any suggestions welcome on the planking..
 
So spent about 6 hours since last mention.. I soaked my supplied 3 ply bulwarks and bent in jig last week, they didn't really come up that well after their 24 hr drying time.. They sprung back a lot so i gave them a second round with a bit more curvature at bow....
 
I wanted to get my bulkwarks on after doing a few planking runs so I could make sure everything was tidy in interior and not have epoxy dripping down into finished work.. Jeez that stuff is hard to get off. Getting the bulwarks to sit right was no easy task and keeping the epoxy from going everywhere was the main worry.. I was also concerned about keeping the bulwarks standing plumb and square consistently with deck and hull. So i made the three supports which kept it all straight whilst also giving something to prevent clamps over squeezing hull... I am happy with the way it cured and it seems really strong... 
 
Thanks for looking.. Ollie

OK...let me try and load the photos for the previous post. What you see is mentioned in my previous post. I will say, the 1st layer of decking material is 1.32 mm thick. Very fine material (basswood), and I have not included photos of the deck (unfinished), but did have to trim the notches for the gunwale posts. I will post those photos as soon as that phase of the job is complete. Thanks for your patience.
 
John E

Today, I did a lot of brass work, and soldering, in working on the pumps.
 
My basis-of-design is from Charles G. Davis in "The Built-up-Ship Model"--
 

 
 
Here are most of the pieces needed, various diameters of brass tubing, rod, and bar stock-- 
 

 
 
First I soldered some bent rod to scores cut in the barrel of the upper valve pieces--
 

 
 
These were then filed back to the diameter of the tubing--
 

 
 
So that the valve would slide into the pump chamber--
 

 
 
Loops were made at the end of lengths of brass rod, for the plunger pieces--
 

 
 
Out of bar stock, the rocker arm was rough cut, and filed--
 

 
 
Here are the pieces, just about all assembled--
 

 
 
The "sockets" on the ends of the rocker arm are some square tube that I hammered down a little to make it rectangular, and then soldered to the rocker arm.
 
 
After determining the correct length of the plunger rods, I soldered u-shaped attachments.  I had to do this three times before I got a solder joint that held--
 

 
 
I also had to redo the flange pieces for the tubes.  I ended up hammering down a ring cut from a larger size tube, and then, since it wasn't perfectly round after the hammering, I filed it inside and out so it would fit the tube and be round--it looks much better than what I had before--
 
 
 
 
Next will be blackening and assembling the pumps.
 
 
 
Ron

Bit more decking.

Hi all. I have made a milestone and started planking.. I added bow filler blocks of balsa to aid in bending and some shims were needed on ply deck at bow..
 
I am happy with my progress and i think i am doing it right with the tempory plank.. Measurements for the  first side showing.. I am guessing you want to try make the other side suit as much as possible ? (in regards to measurements.. esp at bow and stern)
 
I am also wondering about false keel and if its best to fit it over first layer planking or do you scribe it in and fit to ply frame?  (I will be scratch building my false keel)  Thanks all.. Ollie
 
 

Hi all. I have made a milestone and started planking.. I added bow filler blocks of balsa to aid in bending and some shims were needed on ply deck at bow..
 
I am happy with my progress and i think i am doing it right with the tempory plank.. Measurements for the  first side showing.. I am guessing you want to try make the other side suit as much as possible ? (in regards to measurements.. esp at bow and stern)
 
I am also wondering about false keel and if its best to fit it over first layer planking or do you scribe it in and fit to ply frame?  (I will be scratch building my false keel)  Thanks all.. Ollie
 
 

Wow, FINALLY!!! It's here! I chose the Pride of Baltimore as my side build while building the USF Confederacy. I'm waiting to see if the Confed might be marked down during the holiday shopping season. So I ordered the Pride so I can dig in and get the doors of the C.W. Hime Shipyard open for business.
 
Today's the day! This is a Model Shipways kit. I ordered it through ebay from a wholesale hobby outlet. As advertised, everything remains in it's original packaging. It even had an enclosed invoice dated 1999. 
Tonight the Admiral and I are taking inventory of the kit. I'm also paying close attention to the integrity of the wood since this kit has been sitting since 1999.
I'm already planning on replacing the Basswood planking/decking with Boxwood. as of now, I do not plan on painting the Pride except for her mast where black is noted.
I have built cabinets of the highest grade. I have done historical restoration in libraries, manor homes and more. But I do not kid myself for a moment, this is a very different endeavor. Here, among all of you, I find myself once again an apprentice.
 
I look forward to the challenge and most of all learning, adding to my skill set, and perusing what has beckoned me my entire life, building tall ships.
I welcome all of you to pick up a chisel, choose your favorite mortise and set a peg!
 
 
Warm Regards,
 
Bill Hime
 
 

Hello Ollie,
 
This is a great build log! Nice detailed explanation. Your work speaks for itself, quite beautiful. I'll be following along for sure
 
Warm Regards,
 
Bill

A fresh start to a new build, friends. This is a Barbary coastal favorite ship of a variety of pirates during the 18th century. I chose this build for a second build in progress to relieve myself from mistakes made on the first build for awhile. I have learned a great deal from you all and really must think every stage of the operation through.
 
The Xebec is a fascinating ship of her day. She was swift and carried a fairly good size armament for her crew typically used by Mediterranean pirates and off the Algerian coastline. I will give more history later.
 
This Amati kit is a museum quality hardwoods and softwoods, metal fittings and cannons, scrollwork, oars, lateen sails, six types of rigging, color plan...I have found this kit to be of very good quality
 
More data to come in good time...
 
John E     

Thanks ZyXuz..    I get lazy and use my phone to take photos when i should get out the 16mp Canon, which i did just now.. Detail cant hide then
 
So I thought i would share this technique i just came up with to make a bucket.. (I really dont like the look of those churned out by the thousand ones..)
 
So i found a nice size tapered lid off a epoxy tube and screwed the base to that and waited till everything was in position with bands to hold it tight, then I "spot weld" with CA and it popped out no worries after a few minures., just dont over do glue at this stage... Then i sanded inside round and mixed Araldite 24Hr super strength to coat the inside.. Tomorrow it will under go trimming and sanding down to a much thinner thickness..
 
Also a close up of water cask.. This time i cut the bands from aluminium cans in about 2mm strips and sprayed matt black before glueing on, then satin clear coated the lot...     Cheers again all commenting and helping .. Ollie

A big step forward there, Ollie!
 
John

woot I started planking . the first 2 master planks are soaked and drying
[
 
had to do add extra reinforcements as there would have been no hold for the planks

This is my first effort at this, so I wanted to pick something not too complicated as well as something i liked. Hopefully this will be a good way to learn some of the basics of scratch building, like cutting my own bulkheads . This Ship doesn't have a huge amount of parts, and by looking at the plans they are not too complicated.
    The hat goes off to the people who sailed these Ships. What looks to me to be a Ship designed for coastal waters, was used to travel offshore waters,  that must have been a very unpleasant experience. The design is particularly suited to shallow waters as it had a shallow draft. The Vikings could sail these Ships into water about waist deep, which made these Ships able to reach shore quickly and this must have added to the fearsome reputation they had. Being able to take their raiding party right up to shore, meant the people being raided had little time to organize defense or flee. Added flexibility in making shore also must have enabled landing near but out of sight of an intended raid site, followed by surprise raid. Either proposition is a scary one. 
   I found some pictures on line of replicas that have some interesting details not included in the plans. The deck planking is not in a straight parallel lines but seems to curve. The curved clinker planks are not one piece as in the kits. Phew, this will make building a little easier.  There's also some oar hole covers which are also not in the kits. I haven't decided which detail;s i'll add or leave out yet, but it will be nice to decide and make alterations as needed.
   The keel and bulkheads will be Tasmanian Oak, as I've had enough of plywood for a while, not that there's anything wrong with plywood. I chose Tas Oak because it's readily available at 4mm thick at the hardware shop. I also have plans for a Greek Bireme which I will also post as time allows. I apologise if some of the pics are a little small.
   Hope you are all enjoying your builds
                                                                       Matt.

I see he has a bump on his head from the low beams.. sorry couldn't resist..
Am loving your ideas here, the whole project has a real ship-board life feel to it, if you follow me, this looks a fun build.  Alas I ran out of 'likes' earlier today else I'd be liking those photos.
 
Eamonn
 
BTW Buckets & Barrels look amazing.. clever stuff going on here in this log!

Windex, now that is a new one. And from what you say so far no blue tint. I am going to have to remember this one when the time comes. Thank you for the tip.

thanks for sharing it it's simple, yet effective

Thanks ZyXuz..    I get lazy and use my phone to take photos when i should get out the 16mp Canon, which i did just now.. Detail cant hide then
 
So I thought i would share this technique i just came up with to make a bucket.. (I really dont like the look of those churned out by the thousand ones..)
 
So i found a nice size tapered lid off a epoxy tube and screwed the base to that and waited till everything was in position with bands to hold it tight, then I "spot weld" with CA and it popped out no worries after a few minures., just dont over do glue at this stage... Then i sanded inside round and mixed Araldite 24Hr super strength to coat the inside.. Tomorrow it will under go trimming and sanding down to a much thinner thickness..
 
Also a close up of water cask.. This time i cut the bands from aluminium cans in about 2mm strips and sprayed matt black before glueing on, then satin clear coated the lot...     Cheers again all commenting and helping .. Ollie

Gad zooks you are soooo good with the small detail. I was never that good at my prime and now I got the shakes. But God do I love to see this kind of work!

Thanks ZyXuz..    I get lazy and use my phone to take photos when i should get out the 16mp Canon, which i did just now.. Detail cant hide then
 
So I thought i would share this technique i just came up with to make a bucket.. (I really dont like the look of those churned out by the thousand ones..)
 
So i found a nice size tapered lid off a epoxy tube and screwed the base to that and waited till everything was in position with bands to hold it tight, then I "spot weld" with CA and it popped out no worries after a few minures., just dont over do glue at this stage... Then i sanded inside round and mixed Araldite 24Hr super strength to coat the inside.. Tomorrow it will under go trimming and sanding down to a much thinner thickness..
 
Also a close up of water cask.. This time i cut the bands from aluminium cans in about 2mm strips and sprayed matt black before glueing on, then satin clear coated the lot...     Cheers again all commenting and helping .. Ollie

Hi all, progress has been a bit slow, I have many other things that need to be done, would spend a lot more time if the boss alllowed it,... .. I have worked towards getting my interior madness finished and onto the planking and the plan... doing reading and research on planking.. think i have sorted in my head..
 
I have made some brass handles and planked one of the walls.. Made a few items for the cupboard and just enjoying it really... Will let the pictures do the rest of the talking.. Happy crafting all.. Ollie

Thanks ZyXuz..    I get lazy and use my phone to take photos when i should get out the 16mp Canon, which i did just now.. Detail cant hide then
 
So I thought i would share this technique i just came up with to make a bucket.. (I really dont like the look of those churned out by the thousand ones..)
 
So i found a nice size tapered lid off a epoxy tube and screwed the base to that and waited till everything was in position with bands to hold it tight, then I "spot weld" with CA and it popped out no worries after a few minures., just dont over do glue at this stage... Then i sanded inside round and mixed Araldite 24Hr super strength to coat the inside.. Tomorrow it will under go trimming and sanding down to a much thinner thickness..
 
Also a close up of water cask.. This time i cut the bands from aluminium cans in about 2mm strips and sprayed matt black before glueing on, then satin clear coated the lot...     Cheers again all commenting and helping .. Ollie

Next progress, finishing patina and the sides.

Thanks ZyXuz..    I get lazy and use my phone to take photos when i should get out the 16mp Canon, which i did just now.. Detail cant hide then
 
So I thought i would share this technique i just came up with to make a bucket.. (I really dont like the look of those churned out by the thousand ones..)
 
So i found a nice size tapered lid off a epoxy tube and screwed the base to that and waited till everything was in position with bands to hold it tight, then I "spot weld" with CA and it popped out no worries after a few minures., just dont over do glue at this stage... Then i sanded inside round and mixed Araldite 24Hr super strength to coat the inside.. Tomorrow it will under go trimming and sanding down to a much thinner thickness..
 
Also a close up of water cask.. This time i cut the bands from aluminium cans in about 2mm strips and sprayed matt black before glueing on, then satin clear coated the lot...     Cheers again all commenting and helping .. Ollie

Thanks ZyXuz..    I get lazy and use my phone to take photos when i should get out the 16mp Canon, which i did just now.. Detail cant hide then
 
So I thought i would share this technique i just came up with to make a bucket.. (I really dont like the look of those churned out by the thousand ones..)
 
So i found a nice size tapered lid off a epoxy tube and screwed the base to that and waited till everything was in position with bands to hold it tight, then I "spot weld" with CA and it popped out no worries after a few minures., just dont over do glue at this stage... Then i sanded inside round and mixed Araldite 24Hr super strength to coat the inside.. Tomorrow it will under go trimming and sanding down to a much thinner thickness..
 
Also a close up of water cask.. This time i cut the bands from aluminium cans in about 2mm strips and sprayed matt black before glueing on, then satin clear coated the lot...     Cheers again all commenting and helping .. Ollie