Aussie048

a dry-fit for the ruder
 

 
and now fixed with some "small" clamps
 

Update
Hello everyone,
It's been a few weeks since my last update.
I will clarify where I are right now in the building progress.

I have been doing some experimenting with the gun cariages. I also have made some of the metal parts into wood (see photo's above).
I have made a lot of cariages, but still don't know if I've got the right size and shape. This because I have to made them by myself without any instructions.

The ship itself is sitting on a shelf in my room. I have now holiday, but will mostly doing the little work as the cannon's and other metal parts. After this two weeks holiday I have 8 weeks of school, and then begins the great holiday. In this holiday I will be doing a lot of moddeling, and hope to come far with the ship.
Here are some photo's of the new cariages (commentary is very welcome):






I have made 3 different cariages. I found the second one the best and others I know told me also that the second one is better:

So I will be using that one for making the rest of the cannon's in the coming 2 weeks in which I have holiday.
I will keep you all up to date of how far I'm (which is not very interesting to post a photo of every cannon I make     ). After the holiday I will focus on my study, but after 8 weeks I will do a lot of moddeling, including the planking (finally   )

Update
 
@Sjors, Thanks
 
Here is another short update. This also answers your question Sjors, about the result of spraying those cannon's with Tamaya Metal Black spray. I would really reccomend it. I have tried it myself on 5 cannon's, and I think the result is great  :

 

 

 

 

 
I hope to do some more in the coming holiday of me. After that the great holiday will be in a short time, in which I will do a lot of modddeling (when I can finally begin with planking!! )

As spring has come on and work has been through a busy cycle, I haven't posted, but I have continued to take an hour here and there on the boat.
 
The wale and fashion pieces went fine. Between the practica and the instructions, there are - as noted over and over again in AVS build logs - conflicts. My approach has been to reach as much information as I can find, spend time studying the drawings and the boat, and then forge ahead as I seems most logical to me. Based on this, I worked on the wale and fashion pieces simultaneously, then I put on the wale before gluing on the fashion pieces.
I haven't done any final sanding on the fashion pieces; I'm too likely to go too far. So I will wait until I get the 2nd layer of planking on before working to make joints flush.  
 

 
The black strake gave me trouble - specifically the scuppers. 
 
Here's a graveyard of rejected black strakes.

 
I couldn't settle on a method to provide 10 consistently shaped scuppers. I finally settled on a technique using 3 cutoff wheels mounted on my dremel to cut the right width. Then I just had to get the depth of cut right and round out the corners with a riffle.

 
 
I did two layers at a time - basswood and walnut. I set aside the walnut layer for now, and will have them handy when I begin the second layer of planking.
 

 
 

Just a quick update. I have assembled all my carriages to a certain point. Still ned to make the Bolsters, Quoins and trucks as well as all the metal work. 
 

 
I am thinking of displaying with an unconventional arrangement with the carriages lashed sideways, at least the two front carriages. That will hide my oops from earlier. I need t do some research and see how common this was. 
 

 
Sam

Thanks for all the kind words and thanks to Jim, Popeye and Sailor123 for your answers to my questions
 
Advancing forward now, dealing with the occasional bout of disbelief and trying not to get impatient had resulted in some more work, go figure, lol.  Here we go with a batch of progress photos.
 
After all this time I have finally tied off the lines for the boat davits, which had been hanging loose.  Here I applied the 'zero tension' strategy by dabbing diluted PVA into the blocks to lock the lines in such a way as to simulate tension.
 

 
I chose to simply hang the rope coils off the davit 'cleats' after perusing images on the Internet, it seemed like the common method.
 

 
Attaching the life rings onto the aft rails, just a dab of GS cement.
 

 
Bumkins (aka bumpkins aka boomkins) being affixed to the hull.  At first I had planned to modify these but instead I left them as is in order to represent the kit origins - something I have done here and there through the build.
 

 
Hanging the anchors ... here is where I was applying weight to the forward end and then soaking the line in diluted/tinted PVA to give the illusion of weight tension.
 

 
The result with the anchor canted more realistically.  The tint in the PVA is diluted black China ink, not a lot, to give the lines a dirty look when the glue dries.
 

 
A bow view shot of the anchors in place.
 

 
Attaching the 'chains' to the bumkins, some thin black nylon in this case.  This is the midships bumkin.
 

 
And here's the aft bumkin.
 

 
While I was attaching the blocks for the running rigging I consciously chose not to attach the blocks for the braces with the fear that I'd wind up getting confused and use the wrong ones.  Sage forethought as I would have made more mistakes ... but now comes the time to attach all the rest of the blocks for the braces.  A look at the mizzen mast with additional blocks in place.
 

 
Putting the blocks on the bumkins - this is the port aft bumkin.
 

 
And the port midships bumkin.
 

 
Here we go with the first brace, mizzen royal starboard, loosely in place.
 

 
Both mizzen royal braces in place with slight tension.
 

 
And a not too clear view of the mizzen royal braces tied off - additional detailing like rope coils yet to come.
 

 
So now there's just the rest of the braces to do ... just ...
 
This is the part that I never thought I'd get to in times past.  Getting here fills me with mild disbelief and moderate elation, but also there is the growing concern of what happens when I tie off the last line and glue down the last rope coil.  The question of who gets the Dame and where she will stay is still up in the air, thought I now have a place for her to reside temporarily while I figure this out.  However, such concerns I am putting aside until such time as they become the primary ones, right now I just have to concentrate of making sure I do the braces correctly.
 
Stay tuned for more ... but hopefully not a Lot more

Locker and cockpit details completed. The hinges were made as Chuck suggests in his build log using card stock and 28 gauge wire. I know that the contemporary model calls for a red cockpit but it ended up not looking very authentic when painted on such a broad surface using a brush. I was trying to get a even coverage but it didn't work out. I decided to do the cockpit area over again. The instructions say that using stain here is okay.
 

More interior details completed. I ended up braking a thwart while trying to get it under the cap rail. Fitting them close to the inner hull width means that one has to bend them slightly and they can break easily. Raising one end up so it touches the cap rail makes it easier to insert the other end. I'm still working on the wider thwart for the mast and need to paint the filler piece at the bow red.
 

Molding strip under friezes and some interior details completed. The red paint is much smoother than it appears here. I applied 4 coats thinned just a little bit with water. Used 1/64" and 1/32" shims to get the floor spacing as close to the plan as I could. The front platform required a lot of sanding and fitting to place it low enough thereby making room for the risers which I have yet to work on.
 

First two friezes finished. Used Krylon Workable Fixatif 1306 to protect them and 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive. If you happen to get some of the adhesive on the out side there is a great product called UnStik (see below) that will easily remove any excess without harming the frieze or the planking. I used it for many years when I was in the picture frame business. You can even use it on glossy photos.
 


 
 

Got the cap rail sanded and shaped today. Average width is around 0.100 inch except where it flares slightly at the bow.
 

Decided to fix the shear plank by redoing the planking once more. I realize that I could have left things as they where but I need planking experience anyway. After sanding the hull with 400 sandpaper to a near sheen I applied the stain, 1 part Golden Oak to 3 Parts Natural and a coat of Wipe-On-Poly. After removing the bulkhead centers I thinned the bulkhead tops to 3/64". 3/64" + 1/32" plank + 1/64" overhang will give a 3/32" cap rail. I stained the hull inside as well. I then added the cap rail which is now ready for sanding.
 

Thinking to leave a stem and cut the running line after its passage under the breeching rope.
I dont know how was this real in those days naval world......

Almost finished with the carronades rigging....
Some pics from the relative progress...
Next step water-diluted pva to seal the "frapping"...
Thanks
 
Stergios

After 10 days of doing hand to hand combat with the great outdoors, the shipyard is once again open (on the summer schedule).  I've begun on the planking of the inner bulwarks starting in the stern.  Still need to do some prep work (fillers, sheaves etc.) before we start on the actual bulwarks.
 
Here's the stern.  The majority of it will be invisible once the upper deck, beams and side planking are in place:
 

 
Good to be back on the job.
 
 

Thanks David, Russ for your interest & comments.
 
Completed the deck planking, sanded it smooth, and stained it with Minwax Ipswich Pine stain. Topped that off with a couple of coats of Minwax Wipe On Poly. Still got a lot to learn about fairing and planking, but we're getting' there... I do like the way the deck stain came out so I think I'm going to leave it as is.
 
Next I cut out and shaped the cutwater and stem and epoxied it to the inner stem. Cut out the basic bowsprit and began shaping it.
 

 
One thing I forgot to mention and show a pic of; I did put a couple of blocks under the decking for the mast and samson post. I'll drill these out and shape them accordingly when I get to that part of the build.
 
Also, in response to another topic I saw regarding glues; I use Titebond II for most of the wood stuff and some 5 min or 12 min epoxy. I do use a bit of CA but not much.
 
And, as always, THANKS everyone for your interest & comments!

Thank you gerty. Your Bennett is coming along quite smartly!
 
After a bit of thought, I decided to go with non-scale “fake” framing. I know my framing does not look like the plans and instructions, but its all going to be covered by the deck planking. With that in mind, I placed the longitudinal battens, strongbacks, knight heads, side framing and clamps. Next was the “fake” framing for the deck spaced about 1”. I faired the deck framing for the bit of crown of the deck. Added plank sheers and log rails. Sort of cheated on the plank sheers; instead of using a cutting several pieces from single 1/2” width I used 4 pieces of basswood, soaking them and laying them in 1 at a time to make up the width of the sheers. The log rails, after soaking, were no problem and went on nicely. A bit more sanding and we're ready to start the deck planking using the basswood from the kit. I'm going to try to stain the deck planking instead of painting it, depending on how it looks after I finish sanding it down.
 



 
I am subscribed to all the Bennett build logs I could find on MSW. A lot of very nice work by some of very talented folks! So, Bennett builders, keep posting those updates – I need all the encouragement I can get!
 
As always, THANKS ! To everyone who has taken the time to look and comment.

I got a little time over the last couple of evenings to make a little headway. I wish I had paid more attention to the sanding on the masts. They are a bit rough and maybe should have been tapered more.  It's amazing how quickly the the work surface can get messy.

It's been a while since I have been able to work on the Bounty Launch but here is a wee bit of progress.
 
Here is the Rudder Hardware. I enjoyed making these. The soldering went very well and the Birchwood Casey Brass Black worked very well.

 
Here is the Rudder and Tiller. The Rudder needs a bit of touch up in this picture.

 
Here is the Rudder mounted.

 
In between I wanted to do something a bit different so I assembled one of Chuck Passaro's cannons. I made the rings by looping 28 gage wire around a small drill bit and gluing the twisted end into a hole drilled in the wood. Not too bad for the first try.

 
More soon, Al

Hey all,
Got the railings completed stained and painted,  sorry no in-progress pics but nothing real revolutionary though, just masking and brush work.  finished pics attached, still need to poly the rails
THX
J

Rest of the pics

Hi everyone,
Made some progress on my HM,  got the handrails mounted, this was a step I was dreading as I know how severe some of the bends would be...as it turned out it was much simpler then I imagined it would be.  Whatever wood Corel supplied for this made it very easy, once wet you could tie the stuff in a knot    In fact when wet you have to work to keep it straight!

I cut stanchions for the upper handrails, these were drilled and pinned to allow secure mounting.  I made extras so I have more to choose from...to get the sizes closer.

The bow hand rails have decorative caps made from dowel...a 6mm dowel was used.  I removed a quarter of the material with a sharp chisel then sanded to the appropriate Pacman shape, the piece was then cut in thirds and mounted in place.

All the main rails were drilled for the stanchions,  that's about all for now, debating weather the hand rails need to be painted, stained, or some combination of the two.  
Thanks for looking in, Pics follow
J

Slowly finishing interior details. Mounted splash protectors, rings, some decorative things near a few twarts, small ladder for a captain.
Some things are done not according to the manual (different position on splash protectors, etc). So far I like the modified parts compared to pictures in manual
 

 

 
Rudder tiller was nice, but too small for that scale. Made another one, bigger. Maybe it is not in scale, but now it will not break if a fly poops on it
Connection between carved part and turned part is enforced with a small brass rod. It is a pity that connection is visible, will try better next time:

 
And that is a moulded boxwood strip instead of friesers (that look like an overdecoration imho). I understand that are a part of contemporary model, plus the whole point of captain pinnace is to flash, so it was overdecorated. But I like a more laconic design, so replaced most flashy parts with less flashy, but elegant:

Hi Marc,
 
I think the flags look great.  Dullcote will protect them as well as take the shine down a little.
 
 
 

Hi Marc,
 
I just went through your build log, nice job.  I will bet that you are happy to be almost finished with your busy season here.
I noticed your avatar changed to a spring hat.  Nice.
 
Years ago I visited Amsterdam and was busily buying wooden shoes to take home to family and friends.  I happened upon this rather special wooden shoe and decided that I had to have it.
 

 
The pennant and the top of the mast had broken off in shipment and I did not notice until the packing had been disposed of.  That resulted in some serious dumpster diving until it was recovered.  
 
Great work on the yacht.