Aussie048

Continuation
 
For models No. 1 and No. 2 two gun carriages were made.

Continuation
 
Lamp on model No. 3

hello all  so what i have done is sanded the bulkheads to angel right for the planking u will in the pic i got it just took my time on this part. as it must done the right way so here some pic for u all
 
 

Hello, thanks to everyone for the kind comments.
 
Karl
 
 
Upper-Deck
prepared for the installation of the cannons.
 
 
 
 
T e i l  45

Hello,
thanks to everyone for the kind words and likes..
 
12 pdrs cannon barrel
 
Pictures from the production of the negative mold to the finished
cannon barrel in the tin casting method.
Karl
 
 
T e i l  46
 
 

Still joggling away... The little mark on the second plank from the left is what happens when your knife blade breaks from being pushed too hard. Oh well, it's going to be under the starboard cathead...I hope. Ahem...make that the port cathead.

And there's the last one. I'll add the stealers tomorrow. Good night.
 
Steve

One more strake to go on the port side (not counting a couple of stealers at the stern.
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 54 – Treenailing, steps, water tank plinth
 
The first picture shows the treenailing of the ceiling planking on the port side in progress.
 

 
Treenails have been glued in and clipped off on the center to right side of the picture.  To the left, holes have been drilled and are waiting for nails.  The next picture was taken later around the midship area.
 

 
In this picture the nails have been filed off flush and the planking finish sanded and polished up with some steel wool.  The iron blunts at the butts are more pronounced.  The step of the main mast is in position but has not been permanently fixed.  It still needs assembly bolts.  The next picture shows more of the port side ceiling and both forward mast steps.
 

 
I had to catch up on some drafting in order to move forward with the permanent fixing of the steps.  I had not yet detailed some additional hold members.  The next picture shows some of the additional members required in the midship area.
 

 
Some of the pillars in this area are located outside of the openings for the main hatch, the mast partners and the two large square tanks that stored fresh water.  These off-center pillars will be installed on the long base members shown loose in the above photo.  The next picture shows the beginning of construction of the plinth that will support the water tanks.
 

 
These two iron tanks rested on the keelson and are about 6 feet wide, so additional supports were needed on either side.  These are being built up as a solid base of 8” x 8” members.  The first layer of these is shown in the above picture.  The next picture shows this first layer being leveled off on the port side.
 

 
The lower members were shaped to match the hull curvature, but the final structure needs to be flat at the top.  The next picture shows the completed plinth.
 

 
The top of this substantial base has been fitted with 6” x 6” dunnage beams.  The two flat-bottomed iron tanks will rest on these.  The aft tank is 6000 gallons and extends up to just below the main deck, a height of about 20 feet.  The smaller 2000 gallon tank is 12 feet high with its top just under the middle deck.  I don’t know why these were so tall.  I would have thought shorter tanks with a larger footprint in the hold would be better for stability, but the source is reliable.  These were usually round, but Webb installed square tanks in Challenge and that was the basis for this design.  I assumed no change would be made in the short interval between Challenge and YA.
 
The pillar support members seen in this picture have not yet been shaped or installed.  There will be three pairs of pillars on the forward set and two pairs on the set astride the tanks.
 
The last picture shows the final installation of the foremast step.
 

 
After gluing the assembly on to the keelson and the ceiling planking, holes for the bolts in the horizontal arms of the knees were drilled down through the frames.  Copper wire through-bolts were then epoxied into place.  Long bolts through the centerline of the cap were inserted into the keelson in what had been locating-pin holes.  All these bolts were iron and will be blackened before applying finish.
 
Ed

Cheers Mobbsie!
 
To hide the rather slow progress, I'll post a few 'state of the build' pics.  Ratlines and futtock shrouds all done, although there are one or two ratlines that I may yet redo.  First picture falls into the 'warning by me take' category, I'd completely missed a double block on the mizzen mast which was rather painful to get on with all the shrouds in place.  Definitely try to get this one onto the mast before any shrouds.  I did have a pleasant experience though, after having somehow made the served length approx 10mm too long even after mocking it up, I couldn't face remaking it.  Found that carefully applying some GS Hypo glue around the served line at the appropriate point allowed it to be cut cleanly with no frayed ends!  
 
I've also noticed that the tension in the main and preventer stay has been reduced, despite having stretched the line before installing.  Not sure whether its necessary to redo the heart lashings to tighten, only potential problem I can foresee will be when the braces get put on they may pull the stays unnaturally out of alignment, but this seems somewhat inevitable anyway so still pondering this one.
 

Arrr ...
 
CaptainSteve hast only these past five minutes ago popped the Launch from yon Build Jig. She didst cometh free with no problems whatsoever. The wax from the Purple scented candle hast done its' job to perfection.
Whatsomore, a comparison with the top-down view on Sheet 3 showeth this Launch hast not fattened in any way, and doth conformeth perfectly to the plan.
So here be a couple of pics:
 


 
Plenty of work still awaiteth our hero. There be glue spots to be dissolved and removeth with Isopropyl and thence the frames shalt be added.
THEN, the real work shalt commenceth !!!

With momentum at his back and not wishing to misseth but a step, CaptainSteve didst decideth to surge forward. Indeed, just the previous day, our hero had rounded up all of the left-over pieces from the Cherrywood tree. More water-boarding was to be their fate.
"They shalt become the Cant and 'Tween frames, as hast been foretold," he didst declare.
 
And thence:
"I shalt pop this puppy from yon Building Jig this very day !!" he announced.
 
But, firstly, he didst realize that, once having done so, and with much work ahead of him, a new dry-dock wouldst be required. And so he tooketh to the old lounge out back with his knife, doing much damage thereto, cutting deeply, and gouging out a suitable dock. 
 


 
And thusly, he didst grabeth his razor-saw and his knife and began at once to cuteth away at the frames where they hadst been spot-glued just aboveth the sheer alignment tabs.
 
But, lo, 'twas not to be !!!
 
For, just as our Hero was gleefully hacking away at the Frames, he didst notice that one - just one - hadst becometh detached from the planking.
Thusly, a quick bit of surgery with glue and clamps and rubber bands didst ensue, in order to reattach this errant Frame.
 

 
And whilst this brief delay mighteth slow things minorly, it shouldst be mentioned that, as the last of the remaining Frames were cut adrift, MOVEMENT couldst be felt throughout. Indeed, 'twouldst seemeth most likely that this Launch shalt separate most cleanly from the Jig ....

Despite a long absence, it can be reported that CaptainSteve hath not shirked hardship and misfortune. Nor hath he been vanquished by that most persistent of his foes, Stoopidity.
Indeedeth, he hath rallied this past fortnight; and he hath thrown himself, time and again, into the planking melee. One by one, they didst fall to his unceasing onslaught. Until, finally, but two didst remain – the Shutter Planks.
 
“They be over-sized,” didst Bob the Builder write. “You shalt cutteth them to fit.”
“Hah!!” our hero snorted, in reply.
“Surely, you jest !! They be too small, and the gap doest be humungous !!
Indeeth Bob, I doest herewith removeth thee from my Christmas Card list!!”
 
For, verily, and to his dismay, CaptainSteve didst findeth that, for him at leasteth, a large gap was to remain. Much wailing and gnashing of teeth didst ensue.
 


 
Thusly, our hero didst embarketh forth to maketh his very own Shutter Planks – one Port and one Starboard.
“Methinks that stealers shalt also be required,” he didst declare.
 


 
Indeedeth, our Hero didst need to trieth many a time ‘ere satisfaction were to be attained. Verily, at one point, the four planks from the gap to the Sheer didst popeth out from the Rabbet !!
(And, Oh My, didst much wailing and gnashing of teeth and uttering of Ye Olde sailing language ensue on THAT day !!!)
But, finally, he didst meeteth with success.
 


 
But he didst not rest upon his laurels. Casting his one good eye over the planking, CaptainSteve realized that something was missing.
 
“But something be missing," sayeth he. "'Tis good, but a final touch be required."
Thusly, didst he turneth his attentions unto the transom, whereupon he didst cuteth planks to fit, distressing each in turn. Then, to capeth things off, a Docker Plank was madeth.
 


 
 
Some trimming, a final touch-up of the painting, and with that, the planking was done!!
 
 

But why would we wanna do that ?? 
 
 
Most certainly, Bindy !! In fact, I took a few pics that I was going to post to show my method ... just in case anyone actually cared to know.
Okay ... so here goes:
 
Starting with a new plank, I use a razor knife to cut a series of uneven lines along the length of the plank. (1)
Then, using a sharpened HB pencil, I highlight those cuts. This fills the depth of the cuts with "grain". (2)
(I find it necessary to keep sharpening the pencil)
Then, using the side of the pencil, I colour the whole plank with the same pencil. (3) This gives residual "grain" markings.
 

 
Using an eraser, remove the vast majority of the coloured-in pencil. (5)
With the pencil lead in the razor knife cuts, and residual lead on the plank, this will leave the distressed grain. (4)
Now, paint the whole plank with wood stain. (6)
 

 
Once the stain has dried (leave AT LEAST twice the recommended drying time !!), sand the planks down, taking off most of the colour, leaving your distressed plank.
This shot was taken from my Launch ...
 

 
Of course, you COULD try calling them names until they cry !!!
 

Thank you everyone for the positive comments and for the likes.
 
 
Well as it turned out Andy, Walter was short on a couple of screws so rummaging around the odd screw bin he found a couple of 0ld Robertsons  for all the Canadians in the crowd
 

 
These were really hard to make, I used some Sig copper rivets and swedged the square hole with a ground punch made from a broken 1/8th shank number 73 drill.
 
The scrap metal bin just gained a few oz.
 
Michael 

Completed one side of first planking layer below main deck. Sanded it down and filled in any low spots and small gaps between planks.
Before completing the other side, I made sure the masts would seat properly in the slots of the false keel and upper gun deck. It is necessary to mill the lower end of the main mast to a flat of 10.0mm in order to fit in the slot of the keel. 
 
Vince P.

Working on completing the first layer of planking below the main deck. Very slow process on a ship this size. You will notice many glue spots. I want to make sure the planks are very secure as the basis for the final planking. This will get all covered up with the pretty second layer.
 
Vince P.

Here's what we're aiming for. The Granado plans from the national maritime museum at Greenwich. This is low-res off the website as I don't like taking my copy out of the tube much until I can afford to get it framed as a new crease appears each time. Note the detail with the hair bracket etc. quite a bit there that's not in the kit.

 
At last the finished rails with centre section added. The fit on some of the rail sections isn't that tight but it's mainly on the inside which should be hidden by gammoning and the bowsprit. It will be harder to do the gammoning now but shouldn't be impossible.
Our friend Hermes isn't fixed yet and won't be until the bowsprit is on. He's already had his caduceus (twirly stick) broken, which will be fixed later.

The vertical timbers of the head rails were made up from some curved pieces of ply from the kit that were unused from the hair brackets. In a technique copied from Mitsuaki Kubota's fine Bellerophon build they were painted blue and some half mm walnut were laminated to the sides. This was sanded back to give a nice edge.


Careful shaping ensured a close fit.


The centre hair brackets running horizontally between the upper cheek and upper rail have been made up and painted and await cutting and fitting to slot between the verticals.
I'll be glad when this lot is finished.

With all the changes to the head rails the bowsprit was temporarily fitted and gammoning applied to make sure there was nothing that would be in the way later.

 
A small but nerve wracking addition was the hawse holes.
I added a reinforcing plank between the cheeks as per AOTS and as a result thinned down the bolster a bit and rounded the top and semi circle edges.
The bolster was held in place while holes were marked with the flat end of the 3.5mm drill bit dipped in paint. A smaller pilot hole was drilled first before the larger one. This was done with a Dremel. The bit was too long and had a little bit of wobble making the hole slightly bigger than I would have liked but nothing major. Tape on both faces prevented splintering which was my big fear. Not a lot of second chances with this area.


 
Now the final centre head rail can be knocked up.

ok popeye in the pic u will see where i mark its for the block for the mast is this what u was talking about.  glue a block in there befor i go further in the build. hope this is right 

 

I finally have my head rails finished.  As this is one of the more challenging assemblies of the Syren build I will summarize in more detail the method I used to make these head rails.
 
The whole assembly was built out of (regular) pear wood as the firmness of the wood facilitates getting clean looking edges and inscribed lines, and especially helps with the making of the tiny head rail timbers. Contrary to Swiss pear regular pear with its yellowish look blends in nicely with the color scheme chosen for my Syren, especially once stained with Golden Oak wood stain (MinWax).
 
Cheeks and rails were all built according to the same method which is demonstrated with the example of one of the middle rails in images 1 – 4. I first used the laser-cut bass wood part from the kit to transfer the correct lines to the pear wood sheet (images 1a and 1b). Then I took the remaining negative shape of the same part, which is left in the kit-provided bass wood sheet when the respective positive part was cut out, as guide to impress and carve the “decoration” lines into the pear wood (images 1c and d). Finally the part was roughly cut out (image 1e).  In the case of the middle rail the part was cut in 2 pieces using the dimensions of the kit provided parts as guide (image 2f). However, to ensure that the head rail timbers would all end up with a concave shape I increased the length of the middle rail piece, which is supposed to run closely along the ship’s hull, by about 2mm. The middle rail was then fitted to the ship’s hull (image 3), the 2 pieces glued together and its shape refined via sanding (image 2g). Finally the knee for the cathead was fitted to the middle rail, the whole piece sanded to its final shape (image 2h) and permanently mounted on the ship’s hull (image 4).
 

Image 1
 
 

Image 2
 
 

Image 3
 
 

Image 4
 
 
That was the easy part  .
 
 
The challenge with making the head rail timbers lies in making the 2 pieces of each timber appear like you are looking at one continuous piece. As demonstrated in image 5 this can be more readily achieved adjusting the timbers like shown on the left side (a)) of the drawing. However, this method implies making tiny pieces with “crooked” angles (image 6). Once mounted these parts need to be adjusted to their final shape. To be able to do so it is very helpful to have easy access to the head rails from the top and the bottom and therefore to mount the ship’s hull upside down when needed. I also made a good number of special sanding sticks (image 7, top) to be able to do the fine sanding required within the head rails with the timbers mounted, and I needed a special wire tool (image 7, bottom) for mounting the head rail timbers, which are closest to the hull. My finest tweezers were too big to get these parts in their correct place.
 

Image 5
 
 

Image 6
 
 

Image 7
 
 
The top rails were built following Chuck’s instructions in the Syren booklet. They did not pose any significant challenges. Images 8 - 10 are different views of the finished head rails.
 
 

Image 8
 
 

Image 9
 

Image 10
 
 

Thank you very much for your nice compliments and positive feed back. They are greatly appreciated! And Bob, you are absolutely right, it was a "WOW" moment when I realized that I was finished with the head timbers! 
 
Dirk, I am adding a top view and a side view image. I hope this is what you wanted.
 
Thomas
 
 

Top view
 
 

Side view

Thanks Adam.
 
  Cut, shaped, and painted the starboard side channels.  Pinned and glued into place.  Port pieces are sitting on deck waiting to be worked. 
 
  It's amazing how much dust the macro setting on the camera picks up.
 
                Bob R.

Thanks all.
 
Completed the gun port lids including the bridle port.  Time to start working on the channels and chainplates.
 
            Bob R.