Aussie048

Quite funny - but i have not been 100% since new year, and very little building has taken place since then, but i have learnt some useless information, i have two large builds going on at the same time, although i have space - i don't want them both going on at the same time.
As i am involved in other sites,  i asked what people wanted me to continue  with, The Victory, or the Bismarck, 
Me - the Victory - been my favorite build ever
Wife - Bismarck - mainly because it is in the workshop - not because she like it
Facebook - Bismarck
Flory Models - Victory
 
i am interested what members answers are here
 
Victory approx  40% completed
Bismarck approx 30% completed
 
lol - it is not a competion - just a little poll between me and who ever reads this
 

started on the transom planking

For the last update:
 

 

 

 

 

 
Those are the ship overall pictures. Following I bring some questions, since I got 2 "black sheep" deadey riggings
 

 

 

 
After pulling the strings very hard, some of the rope ran loose and I couldn´t keep everything aligned. Question is: In a sailing ship, how much the deadeys alignment matters? On the model´s instructions deadeys are even worse than mine, each in a different line and, as my wish is to show an aged ship, it´s possible this could be put aside as an overrated issue? Should I bring down those two rogue deadeyes and put them on the same line?

Today´s work.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Had some problems with my deck, since I ignored the step in which I should cut off the initial frame before planking it. Now I got this ugly unmathcing woods all over. Modified a bit of the original plan, since it can´t be followed due to an error, still don´t know if a print error or cutting, or even a plan error regarding the manufacturer. Some minor problems on the sterncastle too, as the piece in the kit weren´t fitted to fill all the gap, so, had to improvise.

Well, well. Seems I started it all wrong, but I´m trying to right the wrongs. Here are my modelling to the present day.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Sorry for my lack of description, I´ll try to write it from now on.

This is my foot pedal off switch I always use for my bench saw and lathe.
 

There are contoured blocks of plywood that are fastened to the rearmost bulkhead. Part #18 attaches to the front of bulkhead #8, one on each side of the hull, and parts #28 and 29 are first glued together and then attached to the rear of bulkhead #8.The purpose of these blocks is to increase the cross section of the bulkhead to support the planking as it takes the sharp turn upward to end at the transom. The positioning of these blocks is not very clear in the plans, but is very important because of the planking and the transom construction.
 
Part #18 and its location are shown on plan sheet #4 and can be placed by taking a measurement right from the plans. Parts 28 and 29 which are now glued together should be parallel and butted up against the sternpost and even with the lower contour of bulkhead #8.
 
Obviously these parts and the last 3 bulkheads will have to be beveled considerably to allow the flow of the planking. Once they are shaped properly, I will post more photos.
 
Vince P.

Coming from a young salt, thank you. 
Here is a view I don't hope to see again. It is 'pre-main-shrouds'.
The lines from left to right are the two lines of the flag halliard, the royal backstay, the topmast backstay, and the four lines for the topgallant halliard (belayed as shown). I may still make a very small coil for the flag halliard.
 
I'll do the same on the starboard side and then do the shrouds (I think).

Looks good so far!I had to sand the first layer of planks on my Swift.The second layer of walnut planks really go on nicely.     

Thank you Marc and Duff - you're building a Vulture too? I can't seem to find a Build Log of her .
 
Here is the full set of Channels. Now I need to fit them to the hull and make some Standards for them.
 

 
  Danny

Hallo!
 
I made some progress on my ship so here are fotos.
Work continues on windlass and other fittings. 
 

This is my second attempt at a wooden model ship after failing miserably several years ago - basically as I had no idea what I was doing and the kit I attempted had very poor instructions.
 
I chose the Colonial Brig Perseverance for two reasons:
According to the guys at Modellers Shipyard, it's not too complex and ideal for a beginner, and It comes with a 3 DVD set showing a "master model maker" construction the model from start to finish. This really appealed to me as at the time I began, I had not discovered Model Ship World and really needed some guidance.
Here is the DVD cover and a photo of the completed model (not mine!)
 


 
As I am a new modeler its difficult for me to comment on the quality of the kit although the timber certainly does not seem to be as high quality as the timber in the Corel Unicorn kit that I started some time ago.  The limewood planking varied considerably in thickness meaning a lot of sanding on the first layer of planking but I don't know if this the norm or not.  Also, the silver ash deck planking varied considerably in width with some pieces 3mm, some 4mm and some 5mm wide.  Again, is this generally normal or not for a kit????
 
Unfortunately I started the model before I discovered MSW and therefore I don't have any photos of the early stages of construction.  I bought myself an Amati keel holder which has been very helpful. 
The bulkheads all fitted nicely to the keel and the fairing process although it seemed to take forever went smoothly.
Fitting the false deck also was a breeze.
 
As I am sure most beginners find, the first four or five planks went on very easily and I thought to myself, "this isn't hard at all", but soon I was needing to taper planks and to bend them laterally which I found rather challenging especially around the transom and onto the deadwood area.  I only needed a couple of stealers and made them (like wedges) as per the DVD instructions but I have since learned that tapering them to a sharp point is not really authentic. I guess it won't matter for the first planking.
 
I used one of those Amati plank benders which crimp the planks to illicit the bend and it worked just fine but I found that later when I came to sanding the planking that the crimps showed through.  Perhaps I am not using it properly and squeezing to hard???
 
Anyway, after several nights, I finished the planking.  Overall I was fairly happy with the result as there weren't many hollows or gaps to fill although I did need to fill a little where the planks transitioned from the hull to the deadwood as I was getting a bit of "clinker" effect.  Not sure how I should overcome this???
 
I made a big mistake of using a mixture of undiluted white glue and sawdust from the sanding to fill this area however when it dried it was so hard that I had to sand it for ages and ages to get it down to a smooth finish. 
I also sanded too heavily on one side where the planks bend around the tuck to the transom.  I realize now that this was because in the DVD, the instructor crimps the timber to make the bend but then files it to about 1/2 its original thickness.  I didn't take this into account when I started sanding and before I realized, made a nice little hole in the planking.
 
I still need to give the whole hull another sanding but will wait to do this until I finish the deck planking and a few other little jobs. 
 
I really enjoyed planking the deck apart from having to color in all the deck edges using a 6B pencil. Because the deck planking is only 0.6mm thick I found that it kept cutting the pencil lead off.  Although the instructions call for laying the decking in one long length, I decided to cut them into 100mm lengths to get a more authentic look.  I came unstuck because all the planks were of various widths and therefore I had to try plank after plank until I found one that matched the already glued plank perfectly in width.  Next time I will keep each cut plank together with the others that come from the same length to avoid this problem. 
 
Another thing that seemed odd was that the instructions called for installing mahogany strips to the inside of the bulwark which I duly performed and then the installation of the deck.  I had to cut and sand all of the edge planks very accurately so that there were no gaps between these planks and the lining of the bulwark.  I would have thought that it would be easier to install the lining to the inside of the bulwark after the deck planking has been laid as it will cover up any small gaps.   Is this generally the correct order to do these two tasks???
 
One thing that is troubling me is that the instructions state that I should epoxy the stern post, stem post and keel to the hull after I finish the second layer of planking.  I note that in many of the build logs on MSW these items are fixed after the first layer and then the second layer of planking is butted up against them.  This makes more sense to me.  Any advice greatly appreciated???
 
So this is where I am up to and where I will commence adding photos and no doubt asking lots more questions.  I have included some photos of my model below.  Its a bit rough but I am hoping that my second layer of planking will be much better and hide all of the mistakes I made in the first.
Thanks in advance for any hints and advice. 
 

Small update. Vasas sculptures where not all emperors and glory, two of them were jokes aiming to make fun of Gustav Adolfs main enemy King Sigismund of Poland. Below the two catheads polish noblemen croushes under tables. These were best seen from sitting on the heads, so it's made for the crewmens amusement.
 
The BB don't have plastic sculptures for this, actually their solition is to use pieces of wood instead. I decided to dare the gods of shipmodelmaking and carved simplified versions of them instead.
 
The original shape is pretty strange and from the outside you can barely see what it is supposed to be, without color anyway. I did end up with some problems here as there are many angles meeting up there and anyone doing the BB kit should try and plan for this stage early. When it comes to sculptures, these are the toughest to fit on the model in my opinion. 
 
Here are reference pictures of the polish noblemen, as you see the shape is quite special:





 
 
And here are mine:



 
 
/Matti
 
 

The cannon rigging  part one

The Breech

The breeching tackle serves to prevent the gun after firing, to fly through over the deck. ( Secular terms )

Scientists would / express something else incomprehensible : mass times the muzzle velocity , including the air temperature and humidity = measured at the shoe size of the gunner .......... etc. etc. results in ::: A breeching takle is required !

The breeching tackle by the guns of the Royal Caroline was probably spliced ​​behind the breech around the trowel .

To install this required a device :

A bracket in the final length of the breeching takle and the cannon was to build.
Simultaneously, a device for positioning of the gun was used .

 

The gun barrel is inserted into the bore of the holder ; Breeching rope to the standoffs attached and the splice been marked on the dew.

 

The splice is a rope / thread in the strength of strands (3  or more strands laid together forming a rope)
The splice is then threaded into a needle and pricked with the needle through the rope placed around the trowel and out on the other side through the cable .
On the way back you wrap the splice depending on the length of 3 - 4 times to the existing Part.  At the end back through the rope out it goes back in the same way ( wrapped ) .
Thereby the end is not too thick, splice the stand again to the left or right through the dew, leave a small piece and cut .
Now there is a fixed eye spliced ​​to the existing breechrope .
In this way, all eyes and cringels (on sail)  can be made. This not only looks good, it is by working technically still correct !

   
 
 



Now the work is still dressed and ready is the breechrope on the trowel


   


The next step is to attach the eyebolt on breechrope .

Therefor the gun is fixed to the mounting board and fastened to the retaining ring bolt in the assembly position .

     
 


So it looks when the ring bolt is fastened . The glue ( white glue ) is wrapped with serving .




On the ship the ring bolts will installed for the guntackle and tackle .

   
 
The second part - guntackle and takle fastening follow soon .


Until then, good luck with your projects

All hands on deck.............................he i said aaaalllllll haaaaands
 
After I make the many hooks, eyes and blocks (for the guns) have already spots before the eyes, was a small relaxation törn due for the eyes
 
Therefore, I once make another figure from the bulwark ornament.

The images come in the series of steps.
 
After the figure was transferred to paper and glued to the bone support, it was sawn on the contours.
 
And now have fun with the pictures:
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Have fun

work continues on the forward island, non of the platform level have been glued into position so may seam slightly squiffy, and it is all work in progress 
the reason for the black banding on the bridge is an error, i pained the inside, during which the front masking fell off, oh hum

After cleaning up the shipyard a bit, here goes....   New framing wood has been ordered but due to Jeff at Hobbymill's schedule it won't be here until late (very late) April.  I'm planning on using up my existing stock of swiss pear, ebony, pear, silver maple, and cherry and maybe some boxwood if I see fit. 
 
At this stage, I'm poring over the plans and notating such things as wale, gunport, and deck clamp locations on the individual frame drawings as I'm planning on putting some reference points on the frames physically as I cut them.  This should solve some of my previous issues..  With 60 frames, this is going to take a bit.
 
I have a new build board laid out and prepped but not cut.  The frame reference board is ready to go.
 
I'm still making a final decision on whether to stick with cherry or go with boxwood for the keel, stem, and stern items.   Version 1.0 sits forlornly in another part of the shipyard waiting for various bits and pieces to be cannibalized.  I'll be re-using my old fabricated measuring tools and making some new ones.
 
Hopefully, by the time the framing stock arrives, all the plans will be annotated and scanned, all the bits and pieces from V 1.0 will be cannibalized, and bunches of new bits will be fabricated and then ready and waiting. 
 
It's time to do this beast right and proper... and to have some fun doing it.
 
Footnotes to the build:  I'm adding to this as I discover things.
The Hahn plans lack a lot of details so additional sources will be needed.
    a) Hahn's "Ships of the American Revolution" is a must to understand the building method.
    b)  I also recommend the "La Belle Poule" monograph from ANCRE.  This has period bits and pieces along with the proper rigging as Hahn used La Venus which has pointed out to me as being from a later period.
 
 

It took a while, but I finally got the cleats, rails, and sheaves in place.  
 

Geoff
Thanks, it has helped me considerably since I have never used these types of power tools. One of the reasons I support and contribute to MSW is to make sure this community continues to be a meeting place where I can learn from the more experienced... and I have found that there is a heck of a lot of experience out there.
Richard

But wait John .... there's more .
 
Lower Finishing
 
The Lower Finishing is done in three sections - upper and lower sections divided by the Lower Finishing Rail.
 
I first made the upper piece, which is sanded inward on it's lower edge by about 25 degrees. I then cut the molding in.Then I made the rail and glued it to the bottom of the upper piece :
 

 
The lower piece was a bit harder to make, as I incorporated the Drop (the fancy round bit at the bottom). I carved a representation of three "leaves" into the drop :
 

 
The last bit was easy - glue the two assemblies to the bottom of the Quarter Badge :
 

 

 
Some carving still needs to be done to both upper and lower finishing pieces. This should be fairly easy with all parts fitted to the hull (I hope   ).
 
  Danny

Lower athwart-ship planks sanded back to just below the limber board intersection.  THe lid to the shot locker is two boards glued and beveled, but I only scored for the two doors rather than cut all the way through.  Hours spent on the shot locker hardware.  After cutting the three pieces for each hinge (two parts of the "T" and the wire for the hinge barrel) I started to hard-sloder them.  On most attempts, the pressure of the butane torch blew the wire off center.  Solution;  Work with long pieces, high temp. solder on the "T" and lower temp. on the wire.  By using the long pieces I was able to hold them in place while using the torch.  Bent to shape, then a quick filing, dip in acetone and a vinegar bath cleaned them up enough for blackening.  Very dilute (5:1 water: Chem)  "Blacken-it", then a stopper bath in vinegar.  Much more difficult to see the hinge details now.  I'll glue them in place with CA.
Not quite as clean a job as Greg's, but I'm happy with the progress so far.

Thank you Greg - no, the case made it to the bedroom but I DID turn on the workshop lights on my way past .
 
 
Garry ..... is that you ? Thanks Steve .
 
Thank you too John.
 
Upper Finishing
 
Work continues on the Quarter Badge. Here is the Upper Finishing under construction. I made it from English Box. The first step was to cut out the lower portion to fit around the bell :
 

 
Then I finessed the inner face to fit tight against the hull planking :
 

 
The outer face was sanded down to fit the curvature of the upper stool :
 

 
Then the upper section was cut on the scroll saw :
 

 
Finally it was rounded off. The flat section on the top will support a carving of a Crown, and the whole piece will be textured :
 

 

 
  Danny

Hi everybody!
 
This is my first plank on frame bulkhead model and my first build log. The Virginia is rated as an easy ship to build but I decided to build the Virgina as I really like the way it looks. Here is my log:
 

 
Unboxing

Lots of bits and pieces. Very neatly packed.
 
False Keel and Frames

Cleaning up and test fitting the frames to the false keel.
 
Squaring up the Frames

Pinned the frames in place using the deck before gluing the frames in place. I deviated from the included plans here by not gluing the deck down to make planking easier.
 
Gluing the Frames

Frames have been glued to the false keel and are drying.
 
Fairing the Frame

Cleaning up the frame for planking.
 
Checking the Profile

Using a spare piece of wood to check the hull profile.
 
Fitting the Knightheads

The knightheads and cutwater knightheads have been fit and are being cleaned up to match the profile of the frames.
 
Weathering the Deck Planking

I used a charcoal pencil to darken one edge of each plank strip. Need 20 in all for the deck.
 
Cutting the Planks

I made a jig to make cutting the planks a little easier. Decided on 8cm long planks for the deck.
 
Preparing the Deck

Spreading contact glue on some planks and the deck.
 
Planking the Deck

Started at the back and worked forward once the glue was tacky.
 
Halfway there

I realized a little late that I should have planked up the center first and then work out to the edges. Hard to see in this picture but a couple of planks are slightly crooked and had to be sanded down and patched up.
 
Deck Planked

All planking has been applied to the deck and is drying.
 
Cleaned up Deck

Deck has been trimmed and sanded and is ready to be applied to the hull frame.
 
Deck Fitted to Frame

Deck has been glued to the hull frame and has been cleaned up where needed.
 
Deck Planking Detail

Closeup of the weathering and detail on the deck planking. I used a pencil to simulate nails.
 
 
Next up: lining the hull.

Just one more picture after I epoxied the main royal and topgallant spars in place.
Still a lot of alignment to do.

That's hysterical Eamonn!  A great plan. My middle daughter for one is obsessed with them.
 
Last nights work - display adjustments.  When I first moved into my house I built a bookshelf into the wall of the downstairs family room to accommodate the pretty large number of books and movies we have. My San Juan Nepomuceno was on display in the upstairs family room on an end table. Looked good, and people saw it when they came in the house, but it was a little obtrusive and my lovely wife wasn't super fond of it.
 

 
That led to the discussion of "What are you going to do with the Santa Maria." Then a FURTHER conversation when I started mentioning my future build of an HMS vessel - a more adamant "Well, where's THAT going to go, we don't need giant ships all over our house!"
 
So here's my solution - I converted the bookshelf to hold my builds.  The square in the center (that currently houses my Jamaican chess set (I collect chess sets - yes, I'm a nerd) will house the Santa Maria. Then, the shelves on the right will be converted later to house the future build.
 

 
I still intend to install some plexi-glass over the ship display areas, but I'm pretty happy with the temporary adjustment.  Once the future build is done I'll make necessary adjustments and finalize the entire thing and make it permanent.