Aussie048

Just learning to solder. Before I discover how to use iron, I thought solution is in silver soldering with mini torch. BuT now, I do not know any more
 

I'm attempting to mount the main mast permanently. I've been playing with not mounting the masts and keeping them straight with the rigging and I'm not happy with that approach using my limited talents.  I'm using two levels and a jig to get it straight and with a 3 degree rake.   

Thanks for the likes, guys.
 
Planking continues and is getting closer to being finished. I marked off the ends of the planks in belt B on the transom filler block, because it was the only way I could figure out what the widths should be here. I first marked off the plank widths on the last bulkhead, then drew a line across the gap closer to the keel and divided it by the same number of planks. I then drew lines between the two marks and extended them all the way to the keel to get the shapes and widths at the keel:
 

 
I found that if I fold the handles down on the binder clips, I can piggy back them to do two planks at once:
 

 
Here is the sweet spot - one clamp holds two planks at once:
 

 
The gap is getting pretty small, so other clamping methods need to be employed:
 

 
This weekend I also finished assembling the ME rope walk I bought in their the 40% off sale. I always wanted to try rope making and this was a low cost way to do that. I twisted up three strands of 0.012" diameter nylon thread and its produced a very nice rope, which is 0.025" diameter.
 

 

 
This just happens to correspond to 6 1/2" real world diameter at the Connie scale, so it is the perfect size for the cannon breech lines. I can untwist the rope slightly and fit it over the cassabel on the end of the cannon, instead of wrapping the whole rope around the casabel:
 

 
I also gave the cannon carriages a dry rub of raw sienna paint, which toned down the red a bit.
 

 
As always, thanks for looking in and please let me know if I can improve on any of these ideas. I really appreciate any advice or criticism.
 
 

After finishing chaos in homeyard,



after lunch and little napping, take glass of good white wine, and go down to Her.

First I had to remove ALL hairs of cat I found on table ;@#$@@#!$$(

Obviosly he had a cleaning party under my collection of beats I made yesterday...

I do not intend to write turorial how to make this, because I learned this on MSW, and this would not be honest

So, first 18 are mounted

Not to forget, Mark, there are also seeded on decks !!!!

Here is result of tonight work. I intend to paint all of them in black acrylic

And to mention something for members of CS fleet. Position of those pieces are slightly different on C-plans, on Lou's pictures, and on pictures I collected and have got (thanks Matt again!)

And another notice for Bob and other with fragille bulwarks ... another method have to be applied, if somebody is crazy enough as me to make this details. It is more than easy to drill allthrough bullwark, and to make ugly hole inside, and problem how to fix it. My massive and thick bullwarks take this nice and easy

Today I was able to complete the Bentinck shrouds for the Main mast. I made the shrouds themselves by fully serving a line then serving a loop on one end and a deadeye to the other end. I know on the ship this is not exactly a deadeye, but looks very much like one over a standard block. I have attached some photos of the main with the Bentinck shrouds installed as well as some additional views of the crows feet. I will continue with the fore mast tomorrow, then start working on the upper mast stays and dressing the shrouds.

CHAMOIS CLOTH - To make the oar lashings on my 1/16th scale Bounty Launch look as life-like as possible, I sliced up a used car-cleaning chamois into 1mm wide "leather" strips:
 




 
... and here they are after being lightly dry-brushed with black wood stain to dirty 'em up just a little bit !!

And here is - how to do



 

 

 

 

 

A nice bit of tedious work, Nenad.   It seems sometimes that there's more repetition than anything else, doesn't it?    I hope all is well and you can spend sometime with Her Majesty.  But, also hope the Attorney Strike will end in a positive way and soon.

In Belgrade, in this time of year, weather have to be 0-5℃ with "maybe" snow

Last week (and next rwo as forecast said) we have spring time

Today temperature was 20℃ and I spent all day (until sunset at 16h) in yard fighting with chaos that left after cutting trees couple days ago.

I turned heating system about 19:00 only half of hour, only because Admiral asked for

And evening is mine ( and Her Majesty's)

I analyzed next move: little "rings" which are "seeded" here there and everywhere around outside bulwark and on the upper part of hull, and concluded next:

In my scale, them all have to be between 0,5 and 1 mm

Them all had "ring" function and ring shape - to catch something on them: chain, rope, or eye/block pa rt etc etc

All of them have their names and basicly different construction and function and look ... but ... at my scale, this is not possible (for me) to follow and to reproduce accurate - those little ants are less than 1mm in diameter !!!! Mission impossible

So, simpliwfying time !

I decided that all of them will be the same, as smaller as I am able to make, and after little experimenting, factory starts

Them all will be black acrylic covered, and them will be cuted to proper lenght before mounting

Material used: telephon cooper wire



30 pieces made in two hours, no one dissapear on desk!?!?

LEAD SPLIT SHOT
 
- used in fishing and available, in very convenient dial packs, from tackle stores in a range of sizes - can be gently squeezed closed, filed back and painted black. They make good cannon balls.
 
 
 
EXTRA LONG MATCHSTICKS
 
- can be turned up on a wood lathe to make oars - I did this on my 18th century longboat
 

 
ALUMINIUM FLASHING - for windows and guttering
 
- Available cheaply by the roll in hardware stores (one roll would last a lifetime!) It is thicker and easier to work with than aluminium cans and can be used in a variety of ways when bashing!
 

 
 

Thanks again Alexey, I'll show you asap.
 
 
A lot of questions before my first attempts to serving, folks:
1) For the main ropes, do you serve the sames ropes (in quality, width etc) included/indicated in/by the kit plans or other simple threads from the local sewing stores?
2) What’s the best way to keep the serving line as tight as I can around the main rope?
Thanks in advance.

Put through and make knot

 
 
Put through and serve over. To fix last bight- make overlapping like knot.

Thanks Mike. I told a friend tonight I see light at the end of the tunnel, I am just not sure how long the tunnel is. I am enjoying the rigging. I was't sure I was going to.

thank you Popeye,
 
those patches Show up well when the light is from behind, so that the reinforced Areas can be seen
 
I`m not going to Show every few sails made, this is just to illustrate this sequence in sewing
 
Nils

I completed installing all the lower forestays on all three masts. I removed the zig zag line from the fore mast stays and redid it. I had looped the original line around the stays then seized it to the stays. This time I only zig zaged it between the stays and seized it. This is consistent with the main mast as well. I also completed the crows feet for all three masts.
 
Tomorrow I will work on the Bentinck shrouds for the fore and main masts. Then I will start tensioning and dressing the upper stays.
 
Here is a shot from the bow showing the stays and crows feet in place. There are still a number of temporary lines on the bowsprit. These will be removed as the upper stays take the support for the bowsprit.
 
 

I think that the bottle is to be used AFTER you've finished the serving Geoff. Unfortunately, NO directions for how to empty it, it's left up to your discretion .
 
  Danny

Mizzen Mast Forestay and Collar
 
The Mizzen Mast Collar was made up in similar fashion to those on the Bowsprit. It's fully served and has a Heart incorporated :
 

 

 
I turned the Mouse on the lathe after first drilling a 1.2mm hole up the centre. This gives a good fit over the served stay :
 

 
The Forestay with mouse fitted :
 

 

 
Lashed to the masts :
 

 

 
  Danny

This will be my first build log, so I will start at the beginning  with some photos of the kit, and discuss some 'kit bashing' I want to do.
 

 

 

 

 
The kit seems well thought out but has some shortcomings I will amend, and some that are beyond my skills to fix.
 
The Main thing that I cannot fix is that all of the ribs are the same size making the structure a lot easier to build as there are a lot more straight lines then if it had the correct curve of the hull, making for an easier build was mamolis goal here, I think.
 
And the top deck has one of the smaller cannons pointed very close to  a shroud, it has been placed there with artistic licence, so as to display a cannon on the top deck.
 
Both these things would need major changes made to the plans, so I will just have to live with these mistakes, and not point them out to people when I show the finished model off.
 
Things that I plan to fix are;
 
The pumps do not carry through the decks below, so I plan to research what the drains would look like and install them.
 
I plan on leaving some deck planking out to see into decks below, and let in light.
This will mean that I will have to improve the timbers that hold the decks, there seem to be missing knees that run under the decks, the vertical ones are represented but no horizontal knees, and I believe the constitution had 2 sets of wooden knees as well as iron knees that I want to research and replicate.
 
I also want to improve the gun hatches.
 
And plate the bottom of the model in copper tiles to replace the hideous GREEN pieces of planking suggested by Mamoli
 
I am sure I will find other ways to improve on the kit, and it will be good practice till I can do a WHOLE ship.
 
Looking forward to a good build.
 
I will update when I get this started.
Reading Italian instructions???, and researching the changes I want to make till then.
 
 
 
 

Here are some close ups of the crows feet on the foremast. I was able to create a small block to run the lines through. I am pleased the way it came out. I also spent some time this morning dressing the lines along the lower part of the Bowsprit. I put a temporary forestay to the tip since the lower lines were tending to deflect the tip slightly.
 
 

I installed the first two forestays on the lower foremast today. I played a bit with how I wanted to build the mouse on each stay. I tried carving a small dowel with no luck. Finally I used a heavier line and served the line to name the mouse. I used the normal size serving line to serve the loop on the end of the stay and the loose end. I rove the mouse end to the mast and after fitting the metal eye to the end I served this to the lower end. I performed this on both the upper and lower stays. Then I ran the zig zag line from the lower part of the stays to the top.
 
One decision I made to go off the Mamoli plan was to install the crows feet to the fighting top. I drilled the holes and attached it initially with a ring to the forestay. However, I want to try creating a block for the crows feet tomorrow and reinstall the crows feet. The ring can be a back up should I not be able to get the block made the way I want it.
 
I have attached some photos of the ship after the stays were installed but before I rigged the zig zag line or the crows feet.
 
 

Build log part 66
 
 
 
update for Sail making
 
 
guided by the sail Arrangement (overview) I made 1:1 drawings of every one of the 18 sails
 
The Rating is transfred to the starched Cotton Cloth and prepared for sewing with greyish Color thin Polyester sewing thread.
 
For the bolt rope I use 1mm diam. ( greyish color model ship rigging rope in Polyester)
 
 
Have just finished the first two sails, spanker and main top sail, but still have to attach cringles and  reefing strops. Gues the sail making shall take quite some time from now on to get all 18 sails completed
 
Found this on the web for duck-Standards on Britsh sail Cloth :
 
Sail making, Cloth sizes
Standards for British manufactured sailcloth were enacted in 1746.
In Addition to requiring British sail makers to mark each new sail with his Name and adress, the size of a bolt of sailcloth was standerdized at twenty-four inches wide. The seam was 1 - 1,5 " wide
 
In scale 1/64 this results to 9 mm sail Cloth-width
 
 
 
Nils

This weekend I got the main yard installed.  I pinned it like the 2 above it, and all the rigging is also in place.
 
The sling is the 0.8mm rope, with the next photo showing it wrapped around the mast.

 

 
Here are all 4 yards:

 
Next up is to apply the rest of the rigging.  It's a little slow going, but I really enjoy it.  Most, if not all, of the blocks required have already been installed, so this part is pretty fun.
 
Andy.

Thanks for all the likes and comments (keep 'em coming).  I really do appreciate the feedback.
 
I finally got some photos of the yards as they are progressing.  The two top-most yards are not pinned as both the mast and the yards are quite thin and I didn't want to weaken them unnecessarily.  The top one is tied and glued into  place and i anticipate it becoming more stable as the rest of the running rigging is added.
 
The 2nd from top (forget the name), is troublesome - it's currently tied in as per the instructions, but just hanging loose, as the photos show.  I could still pin this one or see how the rigging holds it.
 
The next one down is pinned and it pretty stable.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Andy.

Thank you Dave.
 
Mizzen Mast Shrouds
 
The Standing Rigging for the Bowsprit is now complete, so I'm turning my attention to the Mizzen Mast rigging. The reason I'm starting back-to-front to real practice is one of access - once the mainmast shrouds are fitted it will make rigging the mizzen forestay a little more difficult.
 
 All the mizzen shrouds are served for about 6 feet below the mast top - unlike the other two masts the foremost shrouds aren't served for their full length as there is no Mizzen Course which could chafe them. I left them overlength for now, and lashed the pairs together around the mast :
 

 
Using a wire spacer between deadeyes I measured each shroud, starting with the foremost starboard pair, which are the first to be fitted. Then I removed the pair from the mast and turned in the deadeyes on the bench using a vise and a set of Third Hands - much easier than attempting to do them on the ship.
 
When all four pairs were done I fitted the Laniards :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks Brian, Steve, Nils, Grant, Ed, George and Mark - much appreciated .
 
Main Stay Collar
 
This is the largest Collar on the ship. Again, it is served all over.
 
After measuring and serving the line I "spliced" an eye into one end. Next I lashed the Heart to it. Then came the fun part - attempting to pass the line through the hole in the knee of the head. To assist me with this I tied a length of thin cotton to the free end and led that through the starboard headworks, through the hole, and then back up through the port headworks. All went very well .
 
Once the line was all in position I passed the free end through the first eye and seized the end back on itself :
 

 

 

 
  Danny