Aussie048

Pat,
Happy Modeling Birthday, this is the day when we hide from greeters (after a certain age) and truly engaging with our ships.
Any way, Happy Birthday!
Besides I like all the knots!
 

I'm hoping you have a great birthday, Pat.   I keep forgetting you guys down under a day ahead of us.   

Thanks all for comments and birthday wishes - appreciated.
 
John, no need to paste mate but thanks anyway.  I was aware of inner and outer tricing lines, and interpret the same way.  My intention is to show one tackle hanging from the pendant with both tricing lines fitted; the remainder will be the outer tricing only with the tackle hauled taut (pendant pulled in along the yard, but I don't think I will seize it also.  WRT the positioning, AOTS shows two shroud blocks fitted one above the other on the leading shroud of each set at about the cheek level, one for inner and one for outer.  I think I will stay with the AOTS as I have also used that belay plan for the running rigging else where( Braces leads for example) and the lead works nicely for the shroud cleats. Thanks for the heads-up mate, much appreciated.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Many thanks Albert,
 
today I tried a sample of structuring the aft cabin walls, double story windows only dry fitted...., doors and handrails not made yet...
The riveting is slightly overscaled, but I wanted it to be this way and visible also for the viewer`s eye in 1 m distance
 
Nils
 
 

 
 

 
 

 

Her Majesty is looking ... majestic !!

Hi Nenad
 
Seeing your video really put a smile on my face because of how beautiful your CS looks! Really, really, really nice!
 
Keep it up.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

After making the decision, I leapt into the fray once more.     I've drawn and cut the rails out of Euro Boxwood (they still need some more cleaning up after seeing the macro photo...  In real life at wide open Ferrari speed, they look pretty good.
 
The plan is to finish shaping the roof where the rail goes, hollow it out to the "bathtub" look on the rail side and bottom.  I'm unsure if I can get a bit in there to leave the back against the hull...  I'll then probably dye it black.  The rails will be soaked, heated (or steamed if the Admiral gives permission) and bent to the "tub".    I hope to have this done in a couple of days as I'm really anxious to start working on the stern carvings.
 
Sorry about the photo.. 
 

thank you very much Bob,
 
the rough fitting of the aft deckhousing is done, I`ll leave it removeable (two screws holding down), until it is ready for attaching of details,  deck, docking bridge and railings for final mounting....
 
Nils
 

 
the 5,5 mm thick piece of ply inforcement will give secure hold for the vent-shaft borings
 
 

Thank you very much Geoff,
 
your compliment is much appreciated
 
Nils

Just wow, Nenad.   She looks wonderful.    This video captures her perfectly.

Main mast dead eyes (left side) on place
 
Short video of present stage
 

Hi Bob,
 
thanks for your comment
 
the parts are only small, but quite easy makeable. All 40 bearing parts are done and 20 of them mounted on the port side already. If the CA glued joint holds well, it will be an alternative to soldering. I was afraid to solder so near to the railing.
 
For the deck housing I`m starting with the aft cabin section, in order to get a feeling for the matching of doors, windows, handrails, etc. Also I´m intendind to do some structuring and metal plating. The housings arre from 1,5 mm ply, with rounded corners (like shown in an earlier post of this thread). To suit the decks curvature the fore- and aft plates have concave resp. convex curvature.
For the first study, there is again an obligatory hand scetch, so that alterations / improvements can be implemented easily
 
Nils
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
This is a view on a card built (not completed) model, borrowed from the web
 
 

 
 

 
 

Update....
 
 
today started with the lower davit-bearings. There will be 10 boat stations on each side, calling for 40 turnable (360°) davits in total. The davits will be looking like prototype one shown in my post # 1124, slightly modified.
The lower bearings I intend to glue against the promenade deck L- rail that already is present for mounting the railing to. The upper double-bearings shall be fastened to the brass  framing of the boats deck....., reference is taken to enclosed scetch....
 
Nils
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
taping the deck for finding and marking (transfer to the sides) the correct davit positions, red markings
 
 

 
 

Had a great getaway weekend in the Sierra Nevada Mountains and the Sequoia National Park. Those Sequoia trees are huge! I could not imagine how many model ships could be built from just one. Now into serious babysitting of grand kids as the wood flooring is being installed and sanded. Soon we will be heading out to the zoo for the morning.
 
I have had an opportunity to do a little work and finished up the spar decking and stained it Golden Oak. I then installed it back on the hull with the wedges to dry. I am still trying to sort out the 1/32 raised planking section towards the stern from the capstan back to the mizzen fife rail. Any insight on this detail is welcome since it does not appear on the real ship; but need to resolve it before adding the structures. In the meantime I made the mast boots and started on the fife rails and have decided to turn the supports rather than using the kit's castings. I am using maple for these since they will turn better and hold the details such as the saw cuts for the sheaves. I also am adding the sheave pins using .020" brass rod.  
 
Here are the boots and decking sections so far.

 

 
Here I am starting the fife rails and using steel blocks to assure squareness as glued together.
 

 
Here is the test turning and also note the 1/32" drill bit on the right for the location pin to index into the deck.

 
Will be working away on the turnings since 14 are needed.

Jon, yes the pieces are stacked and I used Midwest Scale Lumber #8003 two lengths were cut then one split into 1/3 -2/3's and then the ends trimmed to length. All then carefully glued together, once set the ends of the top rounded by sanding.
As for the plans yes they show a detail of the three parts even though the side elevation shows only two. Could have been intended or a drawing opps.
Here is a picture.

 
Here they are painted and installed on the starboard side.
 

 
I have notice so many dependencies in the plans I am now only using them as a guideline and do research based on vintage and contemporary photos. Being basically a scratch builder and have always done my own research and drawings of model subjects and experience tells me not to trust drawings of others even the self proclaimed experts; I am probably building a composite of all three based upon the details I personally prefer. This build will be a gift to my son when completed and end up in his house at the end of Long Island.
 
Heading out after lunch here to have a get-a-away weekend in the mountains with the kids and grand kids. Completely off the grid in my son-in-laws's family cabin.
 
 

I continued on with the deck by mildly wetting the underside plywood carrier to counteract the warp from gluing and set in place in the hull and held in place with wedges under strips of wood inserted through the gunports and weighted down with steel blocks around the center opening and allowed to dry overnight. This process of using wedges and weights will also be used to glue down the deck when the time comes.
 

 
In the meantime while waiting for the deck to dry I fabricated the sea steps and in checking vintage photos versus plans. The plans show 11 while photo shows 10, and there are only two painted white that are in the gun stripe.
Here is the vintage photo. I will use this reference to do mine and I will also add the hand ropes along side of the steps.
 

 
Here are the sea steps ready to paint. I made a couple of extra just in case.

 
While drying over night one of the joints let go that I fixed with filler made from the sanding fluff I saved while sanding the deck.
 

 

 
Here the filler is applied and the key is to apply it across the planking joints for the best fill. Allow the first coat to dry and then apply a second. Once dry it was sanded to match the surrounding area.

 
Here the final trim cut in of the grate structure was done using a sharp blade carefully slid along the edge of the frame side to cut deck. Care must be used to cut the deck and not the frame; a very slight angle of the blade away from the frame helps.

 
Here the pre-stain has been applied and the deck put back in place to dry with the mast chaffing fish holding the deck down.

 
Now back to adding the steps while the conditioner drys. 
 

Geoff has a good idea

Thank Piet for this very usefull imput. Let it stay here !!! No hijack!

Just wait for me to find something and I'll continue posting ...

Ok, I'm back

I had to dive deep in my log, to the section where I was playing making tests trying to make boomkin with chain ( post #1601 http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad/page-81#entry257937 )

Chain, if you can call it so, was made from two 0,1 mm twisted Cu wires, and second attempt was made with knots on those thin wires, trying to simulate chain rings, and yes, it is quite strong. Very very strong







Testing this "structure" I forced "boomkin's" chain with some imaginary rope lines, and it holds very well

My decision to use 0,5 mm wire for dead eyes was aesthetic, not technological. With 0,5 mm wire colored white, it looks better simulating white rounded cackle on dead-eyes. Just a bit more visible, and that was my goal, to have this nice detail

Dead eye strops are glued in their holes on deck with drop of CA, dead eyes are also glued with CA drop, by thiny drop in holes on rail. I think it will be strong enough

On the other side, thinking about further rigging, and watching my photo collection, I noticed some chain lines along masts, not ropes, and I am seriously considering possibility to use twisted 0,1 wire to simulate this vertical chains 0,2-0,4 mm dia, which I doubt I can find on market



Still far from now, but it is usefull to know strenght of Cu wire, even 0,2 mm thick

Thanjs again, my friend. Very usefull

Actually, Geoff, the rivets go all the way through, but are flush with the back of the bulwark planks.  CA or super glue will probably be applied from the back to hold them in position, relying on capillary action to suck the glue in.  The problem with this is that it stiffens the plank quite a lot.  So heating the plank will be necessary to make it fit after the studs are mounted, and after the fairing has occurred.  This may be easier than it appears, since the copper wire conducts heat very quickly.  Brass wire would do so almost as quickly. 
 
This being said, I think that the bulwarks should be done on the interior of the deck before the external planking should go on.  This allows for mistakes to be removed more easily.  Of course, this means exterior planking, at least for the bulwarks, needs to be perfect.  Due to less curvature in the outer planking, I think this should be the better approach.
 
I wish I could get to the ship to test some of these things, but it has been so busy this summer, I can't seem to do this at this time.  Building this deck off the house is taking all of my time at the moment, and probably will through the first of July... Possibly longer.  But this gives me time to think, so it is not all bad.  As a first ship for me, I think I should be spending about 10 hours of thinking for 1 hour of building.  The building I miss though, and I shall return to it as soon as I can get to it.
 
Matt

Thanks Dave, but I have been at it for 12 years - very slow indeed. The pace has only picked up since I retired.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Thank you all for your support.
Karleop. Good idea. I may have some plastiacero around as I use it frequently. Never thought about using it on molds of plastilina. Another option!!!! 

Thanks for the responses, CaptainSteve, EJ. and Jon.  I don't think there is a wrong answer here.  I do think that I am going to attempt the bolts/rivets after thinking about it more though.  What made me wonder about it was that I wanted to fair the inner bulwarks, which if I had the bolts/rivets installed, would not be possible.  So I had to come up with a solution.  I think I have now.  So I will be installing them. 
 
There were basically 4 ways to approach this problem.  The first option was to forget about emulating the feature, but it is prominent on the ship, so I decided against it unless I can't make my method work.  The second option was to just fit the planks with the fixtures, and not worry about fairing them.  This is an unacceptable solution to me, since at this scale, with the variance in the planks I have, things would have looked too much out of scale.   The third way to do this is to install the planks, fair them, and then install the fixtures.  This is a viable approach, but it is labor intensive, and could lead to excessive variance in fixture height. 
 
Well, except for the third approach, these are not viable from a modelling perspective.  However, the fourth solution seems to be the best.  This is, to mount the planks with an easily dissolved adhesive, fair them, then dismount them one at a time, attach the fixtures, and remount them permanently.  This seem like a lot of work, and I am sure it will be.  But this seems to me to be the best way to handle this problem.  If anyone can suggest a better way, I would love to hear it.  The fixtures have to be very subtle, due to scale.  Tiny dots of glue I have used on plastic models, but I have never been satisfied with the irregularity this method has given me.  I will do a test on this method, and post it soon.
 
Matt

Hola Ulises:
In some cases I have had to make similar parts that you mention. What I do with with good results is to take the original part and pressed it in modeling clay (the one that is sold as play dough - plastilina) Once the mold is done, fill it with Devcon plast-steel, in Mexico "PlastiAcero" (comes in 2 similar to the epoxy resin tubes). When dry you can cut, sanded and painted without problem.
regards

It has been a few days since my last update, but my Admiral sprung on me that she wants a deck built on the bacl of the house, 12' x 30", and she wants it by the 4th of July.  Since I am a one-man-shop, this leaves little time for shipyard work.  But I did get just a little time tonight to check some things as I was beginning fairing.  I made a mistake.
 
My gun deck gun ports are not in the correct position.  The are very close, but they are still off.  This is a mistake, but it is not major, since I intended on showing the ship with ports closed in most positions anyway.  The way I positioned the ports was to use a 1/4" spacer to make them even with the top of the gun deck's bottom.  This did not work, since there is variance in how the laser cut bulkheads are cut.  Perhaps if I had faired the gun deck first, then this would have worked.  But I didn't.
 
In hindsight, I should not have assembled the gun port frames off of the ship.  Or perhaps I should have done it differently.  But if I were to do it again, I would assemble them on the ship, and then fit the laser cut backs to them.  This would have been much more accurate.  Had I done it in this manner, this mistake would have been totally avoided.  You should be able to see the variance in the picture below.
 
So how to solve the problem?  Well, it is more simple than it might seem at first.  Once the planking is on from the main rail down to those ports, then it is a matter of shimming and filing.  As I said, the error is not that much, and since most of my gun ports are going to be closed, this is how I will solve the problem. 
 
Now I could also go to an extreme and chop out those ports and rebuild them, but it is really unnecessary.  In most cases, this is only 1/32nd variance.  If you look carefully at the picture, You should be able to see that.  And it is just a few that are off.  I just wanted to throw this out there to warn people about using my original method.  When a ship sits in port, the ports are often opened to provide ventilation and drying.  My ship is in port with sails off for repair, but I am only going to show a few open, so it is not a major fix.  Just a warning to you who are starting this ship.
 
Matt
 
 

The original bronze spindle-nut seems to have had a left-hand thread of 4 mm x 1 mm, so it was drilled out 3.7 mm for the 4.5 mm x 1 mm thread and the thread re-cut with the appropriate tap. The odd digs and dents were removed by a light cut on both ends in the lathe.
 

Parts of the spindle and its bearings
 
A test assembly showed that everything worked as planned. The ball-handle crank has been bought-in and is fixed by set-screws, rather than being pinned as was the Lorch-practice.
 

Spindle in place, but micro-meter sleeve still to be made
 
To be continued ...