MikeB4

USPS last tracked the replacement Cam covers having travelled from the USPS distribution centre in LA on 16 April to LA International Airport on 18 May (32 days to travel that far!). Hopefully they are now finally boarding an aircraft on the way here.
 
In the meantime, I have decided to proceed with the next phase of construction.
 
The Transmission
 
Building the transmission follows essentially the same procedure as building the engine – ie, test fit and adjust all parts, then disassemble, paint, and re-assemble. Sounds straight forward but Paul Koo produced a photo essay of some 48 photographs to supplement the Pocher drawings, illustrating clearly where the problem areas are and how to fix them, as well as some good advice on assembly sequence so that you don’t “paint yourself into a corner”.
 
Here are all of the parts after test fitting and painting. Some sub-assemblies here have been pre-assembled (eg foot pedals and gear knob/handbrake handle).
 

 
Once all of the fit issues are taken care, the remainder of the assembly is fairly straight forward. The only part glued here is the tiny access hatch on the top forward end of the transmission. Here are some pictures of the completed assembly:
 
 
 

 

 

 
 
And here is the transmission fitted to the engine block. Again, no glue, the whole transmission is held in place by some tight fitting joints and two screws.
 
 
 

 
 
The Steering Gearbox
 
The Steering Gearbox is tackled next as it needs to be fitted to the engine block prior to installation in the chassis. Once again, the sequence of test fit, adjust, paint, re-assemble is followed. Another 28 photos from Paul Koo to show this relatively simple assembly! Here are the parts after test fitting and painting:
 

 
The steering system actually works, however some fettling is required to ensure that the gear will actually turn. I had to adjust the teeth on the cog gear with a file, clean up the worm gear on the shaft, and adjust the clearance in the housing to enable it to all turn freely once assembled. Here is what it looks like inside the gearbox:
 

 
 And here is the completed steering gearbox:
 

 
And finally, here is the steering gearbox installed onto the engine block:
 

 
And a close-up:
 

The next phase will see the Main Frame assembled...

I had never heard of the Pocher range of model car kits until a fellow modeller on MSW (Moonbug) took a diversion from building ships to building one of these (actually a Rolls Royce). After following his build, I knew I had to have one of these kits. After much searching online, I came across someone in Sydney selling the Pocher Alfa. The price seemed quite fair but he advertised “pick up only” – these kits are in large, quite heavy boxes so clearly he did not want to deal with packing and posting. As it happened, I was due to be travelling to Sydney the next weekend and would be quite close to his proximity. I told him I would definitely like to buy subject to physical inspection.
 
That weekend, my wife and I drove to Sydney and I visited the seller. He turned out to be a very nice old chap who had not one, but several of these kits to sell. He had bought four of them when his four boys were very young, with the intention of presenting them a finished model on each of their 21st birthdays. The youngest son was now 48 and three of the models had not even been started, including this one. Everything was still in the original sealed bags inside the box, so that was good enough for me. As I was leaving, he asked if I’d be interested in his Rolls Royce Sedanca Coupe as well. I politely declined, fearing what the Admiral might say. Anyway, as we were driving away, I cautiously mentioned to my wife the latter part of the conversation and to my great surprise, she asked if I’d like the second kit as a Christmas present. Needless to say, we turned around and bought the second kit as well.
 
That was in October 2016. I finally got around to making a start on this model in late February 2020.
 
 
Anyone who is familiar with these Pocher kits will know that they are famous for two things: the amazing level of detail they provide, and the equally amazing poor quality control and parts fit. Furthermore, the instruction manuals are little more than a series of exploded parts views. Having done a lot of research I came across a guy in the US by the name of Paul Koo, who has made a series of detailed instruction manuals for all of the Pocher classic car range. His DVD contains very thorough step-by-step instructions that forewarn you of all of the “problems” with each kit, and how to remedy these, BEFORE you find out the hard way. The DVDs also contain hundreds of photos showing everything from parts identification, to assembly sequences, and even how to pack the parts back into the box. There are also many reference photos from actual cars still in existence. On top of that, he carries an extensive range of spare parts that he has collected from partial models over the years. If you’re missing a part, chances are Paul can provide it. He is also an extremely nice and helpful fellow with whom it is a pleasure to do business. So much so, that I have subsequently added another two kits to my stash…….
 
What’s in the box?
 
A lot! There is so much packed into this kit, that Paul’s DVD contains 68 photos to help identify the various bags of metal parts and all of the plastic sprues. Here are a few photos from the DVD to show the contents by “layer” within the very large box. These are essential if you are to have any hope of getting everything back in the box again!
 





 


 Not showing above are the two wing panels that are hidden under the final piece of cardboard at the front of the box in the last picture above.
 
Continued in the next post...

The Engine Block
 
For this entire build, the basic sequence is to test fit the parts for each build step, adjust the fit, then disassemble, paint and re-assemble. However, before I could even start on the test fitting, I found that I had to address some significant defects in the main engine block. Whether caused by mishandling at some stage, or just through age and the plastic becoming brittle, I found a large chunk taken out from one end of one half of the engine block. There was also a significant amount of clean-up required.
 



 
I was able to repair this using some Milliput epoxy putty. I also used some Tamiya white putty to fill some of the mold marks.
 


There is very little glue used in the construction of these models. A lot of the parts are screwed together using some very small screws. However, the holes in the plastic are invariably too small and are prone to cracking if forced. On the engine block and the component parts all of the screw holes were first drilled out using a 1.2mm drill and then tapped by screwing in the screw by itself first. This puts a thread into the plastic and makes it significantly easier to assemble. Additionally, a lot of screw holes are misaligned and needed to be moved or otherwise modified. Thank goodness for Paul’s instructions here – he identifies every single one of these misalignments and shows photographs of how to adjust the fit. Once this had been done, all of the component parts could then be disassembled in preparation for painting. There were a few components that made up into sub-assemblies that were able to be glued together prior to painting, however most were stripped back down to individual parts. Here are the parts ready for painting.
 

 
I’ll be breaking out the airbrush for this project, so I decided to take a diversion and build a collapsible spray booth so that I could spray inside. As I’m using Vallejo acrylic paints, I don’t need to worry about ventilation, so the booth is just to protect from overspray. It is built of poster board and “hinged” with a tape similar to duct tape, so that the whole thing will fold flat for storage is as light as a feather. In use, it fits on a small portable table that sits at 90-degrees to my main workspace, so it is quite convenient. The top of the spray booth can also be folded back to allow more light on the work surface.
 

 
I’m using Vallejo Metal Colour for painting these parts and Vallejo specifies a gloss black primer coat for these. So here are the parts with a coat of primer. The stand is something I picked up from Hobby Zone. It is actually a box construction. The top with the holes comes off and then the “arms” (10 of them supplied) are all stored within the box when not in use. The arms are a stiff but flexible plastic with an alligator clip at the end. It’s quite a neat little set up.
 

 
Continued in the next post....
 

The main engine block in the street variant of this car was aluminium with a cast iron cylinder head. I sprayed the majority of the engine components with Vallejo Dull Aluminium and then went back and hand painted the simulated bolt heads with Vallejo Gun Metal. The main block was sprayed with a two-tone effect using Dull Aluminium and Black for the cylinder head. Everything was then given a coat of Metal Varnish to finish. Here are a few photos to show the overall painting, along with some close ups of the various components.
 







 
These components are now ready for assembly. 
 

Well it is about time for an update to my Log! I can tell you I have spent many hours sanding. I have finished the Caprail and the inside plank of the caprail. Painted and install the Frieze. For the inside of the caprail I was have difficulty getting the laser cut pieces to fit. So I switched the a single strip of box wood that I had from another project. It was the same dimensions and easy to bend into place. I am finally feeling pretty good about this model. I am actually looking forward to using my scrapers to make the moldings for the bottom edge of the frieze. I also have some spray I use when I am printing decals. It has worked great on fixing and protecting these paper strips. I will be masking the hull with painters take before I spray this stuff on. it also has to be sprayed out of doors. But I wanted to pause and share my pictures. 
 
Chuck if I may offer a suggestion - there were 5 copies of the stern. So it was easy if I made a mistake. But only 1 copy of the sides and the small piece for the Bolsters. For the future could we please have a 2nd copy of each. Also could the stern strips be jsut a shade longer. My wallpaper hanging wife was frustrated that she could not get the pattern to match to her high standards and still reach the stern.
 
PS I spent days sweating the Bolsters. I did throw 3 away. But I actually had fun with them.
 
 

Finally I have reach a major milestone!  I am not sure why my hull doesn't look as good as some but I am going to stick with this. I did bevel the edges of the planks, but maybe not enough. As the admiral says the best planking I have ever done. I still have significant sanding to do.
 
I do have a couple of questions -
- In another log it mentions a 1/16" notch in the transom wings. If I read the instructions and plans I don't see the notch. It looks like all I ahve to do is adjust the length of the cap rail and the stern end raps around the transom.
- I noted the Ryland suggests fitting the stand at this point. Are you suggesting gluing it in place? or gluing the stand to the base?
- Do I need to sand out the laser char on the inside of the frames?
 
 

I finally got my Serv-o-matic apparatus built after buying it about 2 years ago. I realize I have a lot of models sitting in my closet that need building. While working on the Royal Barge I'm prepping for my next project when this one is completed. I'm leaning towards building the "Private Armed Schooner (Lively of Baltimore 1813)" from The Lumber Yard for model shipwrights. This seems like it will be a good kit to progress to the next level in my journey of model ship building. Although lively isn't technically a ship it will be the first time I'm tackling a fully rigged vessel with a canon. But I'm only half done with the barge and I'm in no hurry to get it done. I made that mistake two years ago by giving my self a deadline because I wanted to enter it into a show. So the lesson here is, slow down and take your time. At least I got the Serv-o-matic built in preparation for my next project what ever it might be.  

Thank You for posting.
 
Today chapter ten was started.  You saw that I had already planked the qdeck along the bulwarks after adding the margin planks.  So before I could plank down the center I had to get the coamings all made.
 
The coamings are build exactly like the others we built.   They are laser cut for you.  Just build them using the 3/64" thick right angle template as before.   Round off the corners......yada....yada....and add the cambered gratings.  Two packages were enough to do these three.
 
But dont glue all three down yet.  Only glue the forward most grating and coaming in first.  This is very important.
 

As you can see above, the first coaming was positioned and then it could be used to help position the capstan partners.   These are also laser cut for you.  But because so much depends on where you placed you beams.....where you placed your lower capstan, etc....
 
I laser cut the three parts for the capstan partners a bit longer on both ends (forward and aft).  This will allow you to adjust to suit you model and get the round opening directly centered over the lower capstan.   Then trim the aft side so it falls on the deck beam nicely.  The aft end of the partners should cover half the beam it sits on.
 
Then the other coamings can be glued in position.  Make sure to center them down the qdeck of course.
 

In that same photo above you can also see the mizzen bitts.   These must be glued to the forward side of the beam before you start planking.  So these were made up next.  They are laser cut but you must finish the top timberhead shape as is usually the case.  There is a hole laser cut through these as well.  They will accept a 1/16 dia. rod.   Use either brass, or even styrene or wood.  It doesnt matter.   You will have to clean out the holes with a 1/16" drill bit first as the laser doesnt cut a perfect right angle.  So I made this hole slightly smaller as a pilot hole.   Drill them again with a 1/16" bitt and insert the rod.  Use the plans to get their length.
 

Above you can see the bitts pretty good.  But you can also see a modeler's convention for adding the slots for the ships wheel rigging.   This is laser cut in two layers 3/64" thick.   The lower layer is glued between the deck beams first.  It has a laser etched reference for the second final layer.  Just glue it on top like in the photo.  We will plank around this.
 
Finally the planking can commence down the center of the qdeck.   Use your template as a guide like when you planked the fcastle.
 
This will complete the planking or most of it.  We still have the gangways to do but that will be done much later.  You can see I also test fit the upper capstan.  I still have to paint it red and add the metal band.   But its all coming together.   That will be done next along with the pawls....and also the mizzen mast coat.  
 


 

 
With each update she is getting less naked.  Its is starting to fill out nicely with details.  Any questions. On the workbench…

I finally got my Serv-o-matic apparatus built after buying it about 2 years ago. I realize I have a lot of models sitting in my closet that need building. While working on the Royal Barge I'm prepping for my next project when this one is completed. I'm leaning towards building the "Private Armed Schooner (Lively of Baltimore 1813)" from The Lumber Yard for model shipwrights. This seems like it will be a good kit to progress to the next level in my journey of model ship building. Although lively isn't technically a ship it will be the first time I'm tackling a fully rigged vessel with a canon. But I'm only half done with the barge and I'm in no hurry to get it done. I made that mistake two years ago by giving my self a deadline because I wanted to enter it into a show. So the lesson here is, slow down and take your time. At least I got the Serv-o-matic built in preparation for my next project what ever it might be.  

I finally got my Serv-o-matic apparatus built after buying it about 2 years ago. I realize I have a lot of models sitting in my closet that need building. While working on the Royal Barge I'm prepping for my next project when this one is completed. I'm leaning towards building the "Private Armed Schooner (Lively of Baltimore 1813)" from The Lumber Yard for model shipwrights. This seems like it will be a good kit to progress to the next level in my journey of model ship building. Although lively isn't technically a ship it will be the first time I'm tackling a fully rigged vessel with a canon. But I'm only half done with the barge and I'm in no hurry to get it done. I made that mistake two years ago by giving my self a deadline because I wanted to enter it into a show. So the lesson here is, slow down and take your time. At least I got the Serv-o-matic built in preparation for my next project what ever it might be.  

I finally got my Serv-o-matic apparatus built after buying it about 2 years ago. I realize I have a lot of models sitting in my closet that need building. While working on the Royal Barge I'm prepping for my next project when this one is completed. I'm leaning towards building the "Private Armed Schooner (Lively of Baltimore 1813)" from The Lumber Yard for model shipwrights. This seems like it will be a good kit to progress to the next level in my journey of model ship building. Although lively isn't technically a ship it will be the first time I'm tackling a fully rigged vessel with a canon. But I'm only half done with the barge and I'm in no hurry to get it done. I made that mistake two years ago by giving my self a deadline because I wanted to enter it into a show. So the lesson here is, slow down and take your time. At least I got the Serv-o-matic built in preparation for my next project what ever it might be.  

I finally got my Serv-o-matic apparatus built after buying it about 2 years ago. I realize I have a lot of models sitting in my closet that need building. While working on the Royal Barge I'm prepping for my next project when this one is completed. I'm leaning towards building the "Private Armed Schooner (Lively of Baltimore 1813)" from The Lumber Yard for model shipwrights. This seems like it will be a good kit to progress to the next level in my journey of model ship building. Although lively isn't technically a ship it will be the first time I'm tackling a fully rigged vessel with a canon. But I'm only half done with the barge and I'm in no hurry to get it done. I made that mistake two years ago by giving my self a deadline because I wanted to enter it into a show. So the lesson here is, slow down and take your time. At least I got the Serv-o-matic built in preparation for my next project what ever it might be.  

I'm almost back to the point I originally started from. There's still issues but by fairing a little more the benches look like they will finally fit much better.
 

I'm almost back to the point I originally started from. There's still issues but by fairing a little more the benches look like they will finally fit much better.
 

After putting this model away for a couple of years I'm ready to try and correct the mistake I made. When I got to the point of putting the rear benches in place I found that I didn't fair the inside frames enough and would have to tear down some of the build I had already done. Needless to say I was completely discouraged and just put the model away. I'm now ready to look at it again. As you can see in the picture I removed what was needed in order to  start sanding down the frames to where they need to be.

After putting this model away for a couple of years I'm ready to try and correct the mistake I made. When I got to the point of putting the rear benches in place I found that I didn't fair the inside frames enough and would have to tear down some of the build I had already done. Needless to say I was completely discouraged and just put the model away. I'm now ready to look at it again. As you can see in the picture I removed what was needed in order to  start sanding down the frames to where they need to be.

I got some more work done on the rear bench. It was a little tricky getting this to square up but so far I think I'll be alright. I'm also using chuck's method of painting which is to apply many light coats rather than applying one or two heavy coats. when you slowly build it up it looks much better.

Decks, bulwarks and an experiment with wipe on poly
 
Not much time in the dockyard lately but I've made some progress. I decided in the end to use the etched decks supplied in the kit. Although I enjoy planking my own decks and did so on Speedy, the ones supplied with this kit seem such good quality I thought I'd give them a go. They fitted without issue along with the interior bulwark patterns, following the steps clearly set out in the manual:
Whilst continuing to dither over whether or not to paint the hull below the waterline, I decided I ought to at least apply a finish to protect the wood before I got on with other tasks such as painting the blue and red areas along the upper part of the hull.
 
I have used shellac for a long time and love the finish I get with the pale version. However I've seen the results other people achieve with wipe on poly and thought I'd give it a go. The ready mixed products aren't commonly available in the UK so after some research on the web and the forum I made up my own from a 50:50 mix of matt polyurethane varnish and white spirit (aka mineral spirits on the other side of the pond). Early results were not promising, taking ages to dry and leaving a less-than-impressive finish. I knew I must be doing something wrong, but rather than starting a load of hit and miss experimentation I asked @glbarlow, someone who clearly knows what he's doing as evidenced by his current (Flirt) and previous builds.
 
Glenn kindly sent me two detailed messages setting out his methods and advice. Straightaway I saw what I was doing wrong - I was wiping on but I wasn't wiping off! I tried again and soon, as they say in these parts, I was cooking on gas.
I'm sure Glenn won't mind if I paraphrase his method:
Apply generously with a soft cloth (eg old cotton t-shirts cut up) AND (the real key to a nice finish) wipe it off before it dries, leaving only what’s absorbed into the wood. If you let it dry on thick the finish will look too artificial.  Leave to dry thoroughly before buffing with a clean soft cloth. It can take 12-24 hours to dry depending on conditions. You know it’s dry if you can buff it without it seeming gummy. If it is stop and wait longer.  For a deeper finish like on a hull, lightly sand with 400 grit making sure to wipe with a cloth to remove dust and then repeat the wipe on/wipe off process Use a brush on small nooks and crannies, but only if you can get in immediately with a cloth to wipe it off.  Two coats are better than one, with at least three on the hull. Different woods will vary in absorbing the wop so the key is simply to repeat the process until it looks right. I experimented with matt and satin polyurethane. I found the matt a little too dull whereas the satin gave a beautiful silky finish. In both cases the varnish tins had been unused for a while and needed a lot of stirring to thoroughly mix the particles that give the matt/satin finish to what would otherwise be gloss. As I was just experimenting I used tiny amounts - I found 6ml of poly mixed with 6ml white spirit was more than enough for three coats on the Duchess. For measuring I used one of those plastic pipettes sold for model paints eg these at £2.99 for 50 from Amazon.
 
Here's some pictures:



It's difficult to convey just how silky smooth the result is, both to the eye and the finger. Glenn told me I'd know I'd done enough when after buffing I looked at it and smiled. I'm smiling now 😁
 
Derek

I'm almost back to the point I originally started from. There's still issues but by fairing a little more the benches look like they will finally fit much better.
 

It's summertime and it's hard to stay in the house to build models. Since it's extremely hot out I found some time to stay in the cool house and continue my build. It's slowly coming along.

After putting this model away for a couple of years I'm ready to try and correct the mistake I made. When I got to the point of putting the rear benches in place I found that I didn't fair the inside frames enough and would have to tear down some of the build I had already done. Needless to say I was completely discouraged and just put the model away. I'm now ready to look at it again. As you can see in the picture I removed what was needed in order to  start sanding down the frames to where they need to be.

Well worth finishing Mike, it is such a unique and attractive model.
 
B.E.

I'm almost back to the point I originally started from. There's still issues but by fairing a little more the benches look like they will finally fit much better.
 

I'm almost back to the point I originally started from. There's still issues but by fairing a little more the benches look like they will finally fit much better.
 

I'm almost back to the point I originally started from. There's still issues but by fairing a little more the benches look like they will finally fit much better.