Bob Cleek

There is a recent thread here about mast making.  A search should bring it up - and probably similar older ones.
 
A lathe is a cool tool and many here are stretching credibility in search of an excuse to buy one. 
The cold blooded bottom line is that if it for use on wood, a lathe is overkill  and unless you make a concerted effort to use it for jobs that can just as easily be do using simple tools, it will be an expensive door stop.
What a lathe is useful for is for making other tools - turning ferrous metals.  I bring this up, because a lathe seems like it should be an easy way to shape spars.  That impulse is a specious idea.
 
Using a dowel as starting stock for spars is the commercial choice - because it is both inexpensive and expected -  and  the common choice for individuals. 
The problem is in how dowels are made.   Essentially,  a cork borer eats thru a board starting at the end grain.  The grain of the board can and usually does go every which way.  Once the dowel is free from the board, it is wanting to follow the grain and forms a dog leg or something.  It is foolish to try to fight Mother Nature.   It is best to start with a board that has straight grain to begin with.  Split out a square stick along the grain.  That way the spar is already the way it "wants" to be. 
Square - to octagon - to whatever a 16 sided polygon is named.  A really good quality miniature hand plane,  and or a file,  a chisel if you are brave, scrappers,  sandpaper.  Simple hand tools.
You have the joy of getting the round - or oval - straight for ways, then tapering spar that the vessel needs.
As for the wood,  a lot of the species named are tropical - loved to near or total extinction -  If you are US based,  Hard Maple,  Birch  will get you there.

If you are asking about traditional rigging tools, it is easy to make your own, using a couple of large needles and fixing them into wooden dowels, or even a couple of handles from old brushes. See the attachment.
I am just in the middle of rigging of my French 74 gun ship model (1:48), [geez, what a pain!   😬], and constantly using my three DIY rigging tools - I find them indispensable!

If you have shakey hands like I do, try to minimize the number of moving parts.  I made a simple vice similar to those used by fly tyers.  It used an alligator clip to hold blocks, dead eyes, etc. while I stropped them.
 
Roger

What the other guys said.  Don't waste your money on those "rigging tools." I can't imagine what they could be useful for either.
 
Particularly given your unsteady hands (a challenge many older modelers must overcome), you would do well to study, practice, master, and use surgeons' suture instrument knot tying techniques. YouTube has many instructional videos on the subject, most published by medical schools and surgical instrument companies for the medical profession. The use of surgical instruments and surgical technique will make model ship rigging much easier. If you can tie knots like a micro-surgeon, tying knots in rigging on a ship model becomes a piece of cake compared to trying to stich up aortic valves inside of a chest cavity! 
 
As for instruments essential to knot tying, the basics are:
 
A number of fairly good pairs of tweezers. There are a lot of cheap ones out there. Spend the money for at least a couple of not-so-cheap ones. Don't limit your selection to those short, stubby tweezers used by watchmakers and ladies plucking their eyebrows. For rigging tasks, long tweezers are far more useful and often essential for reaching hard-to-reach places. Get a few tweezers in the 6" to 12" long range. 
 
A selection of surgical forceps, hemostats, and needle holders, all of which are more or less the same thing for modeling purposes. As with tweezers, make sure you have some long-handled ones so you can reach "into" the rigging as you work. 
 
One or more "ear polypuses," buy the longer ones first and then expand your collection. The "ear polypus" is a unique forceps which permits you to reach into very confined spaces to grab line and tie knots. Surgeons use it to remove foreign objects inside patients' ear canals.
 
Ear polypus: Just the jaws on the tip open and close when the finger holes move:
 

 
There has recently come on the market a polypus that has a cutting scissor jaw on the end instread of a forceps jaw. I don't know how well these work, but they may be useful for cutting excess line in tight places after tying. I've never had any problem cutting rigging line in tight spaces with a sharp scalpel, though.
 
Dental and surgical instruments are some of the most valuable model-making tools, particularly for rigging. Some of these tools are offered for sale online by modeling and hobby supply houses such as MicroMark. Beware! The "hobby market" prices for inferior quality versions of these tools are generally far higher than medical instrument supply houses ask for the "medical quality" versions the medical professionals actually use. You will find an extensive range of dental and surgical instruments for sale on Amazon and, particularly, on eBay. The latter has a lot of listings for Indian and Pakistani-made instruments which aren't the highest quality but are certainly serviceable for modeling.  There are also many online retailers selling used surgical and dental instruments at perhaps the lowest price points for these often very well-made instruments. Many will correctly say that "you can't have too many clamps," and the hobby tool marketers offer a wide range of clamps for that reason, but keep in mind that you can often buy used hemostats and needle holders in lots on eBay for close to the same price as fancy clamps and have a much more versatile clamping and holding tool that is better suited for the shaky hands of old pharts like us!
 
 
 
 

What the other guys said.  Don't waste your money on those "rigging tools." I can't imagine what they could be useful for either.
 
Particularly given your unsteady hands (a challenge many older modelers must overcome), you would do well to study, practice, master, and use surgeons' suture instrument knot tying techniques. YouTube has many instructional videos on the subject, most published by medical schools and surgical instrument companies for the medical profession. The use of surgical instruments and surgical technique will make model ship rigging much easier. If you can tie knots like a micro-surgeon, tying knots in rigging on a ship model becomes a piece of cake compared to trying to stich up aortic valves inside of a chest cavity! 
 
As for instruments essential to knot tying, the basics are:
 
A number of fairly good pairs of tweezers. There are a lot of cheap ones out there. Spend the money for at least a couple of not-so-cheap ones. Don't limit your selection to those short, stubby tweezers used by watchmakers and ladies plucking their eyebrows. For rigging tasks, long tweezers are far more useful and often essential for reaching hard-to-reach places. Get a few tweezers in the 6" to 12" long range. 
 
A selection of surgical forceps, hemostats, and needle holders, all of which are more or less the same thing for modeling purposes. As with tweezers, make sure you have some long-handled ones so you can reach "into" the rigging as you work. 
 
One or more "ear polypuses," buy the longer ones first and then expand your collection. The "ear polypus" is a unique forceps which permits you to reach into very confined spaces to grab line and tie knots. Surgeons use it to remove foreign objects inside patients' ear canals.
 
Ear polypus: Just the jaws on the tip open and close when the finger holes move:
 

 
There has recently come on the market a polypus that has a cutting scissor jaw on the end instread of a forceps jaw. I don't know how well these work, but they may be useful for cutting excess line in tight places after tying. I've never had any problem cutting rigging line in tight spaces with a sharp scalpel, though.
 
Dental and surgical instruments are some of the most valuable model-making tools, particularly for rigging. Some of these tools are offered for sale online by modeling and hobby supply houses such as MicroMark. Beware! The "hobby market" prices for inferior quality versions of these tools are generally far higher than medical instrument supply houses ask for the "medical quality" versions the medical professionals actually use. You will find an extensive range of dental and surgical instruments for sale on Amazon and, particularly, on eBay. The latter has a lot of listings for Indian and Pakistani-made instruments which aren't the highest quality but are certainly serviceable for modeling.  There are also many online retailers selling used surgical and dental instruments at perhaps the lowest price points for these often very well-made instruments. Many will correctly say that "you can't have too many clamps," and the hobby tool marketers offer a wide range of clamps for that reason, but keep in mind that you can often buy used hemostats and needle holders in lots on eBay for close to the same price as fancy clamps and have a much more versatile clamping and holding tool that is better suited for the shaky hands of old pharts like us!
 
 
 
 

I do not see that these tools would be of much use.  I advise giving them a pass.
 
Tools and investment are two words that do not belong together.  If you could get a Jim tablesaw with all of its accessories into England, you could probably sell it for what you paid for it.  Consider most any other tool an expense.  
 
A GOOD quality set of ~5" tweezers (Dumont?)  - straight and curved  -  the cheap ones do not grip and hold all that well.
A needle threader.
A set of 5-6"  forceps ( hemostats - Kelly clamps ) good quality - straight and curved may be a help.
If you are using natural fiber rigging line - bookbinders pH 7 PVA glue.
 
Plastic is about the worst possible choice for spars ( masts, booms, yards ) Time and temp alone can have them droop from their own weight.
Split out and hand shaped fine grain, straight grain, high density wood should be substituted for masts and large yards.  According to the museum standards that we have, small brass rod should be shaped to be the small yards.  
If you stick with the polystyrene - Rather than use tension between tie points to keep a line straight,  use glue or shellac to make the line itself stiff.

You are building a model of a steel hulled vessel.  That means showing a beautifully executed planking job is silly and historically inaccurate.  Goop is your friend.  Durham’s Rock Hard Water Putty comes to mind.  Spread it on with a putty knife, let it harden and sand it down until you get a smooth hull.
 
Roger

Google is your friend, or Bing, as the case may be in this instance: printable scale rulers - Search (bing.com)
 
       See:                          Printable scale rulers - Printable Ruler (printable-ruler.net)
 
                                       Printable Ruler - Free Accurate Ruler Inches, CM, MM - World of Printables
 
                                       9 Sets of Free, Printable Rulers When You Need One Fast (thesprucecrafts.com)
 
The catch with printable rulers is the ability of the particular printer to print the rule accurately.  In the first instance, most copiers and printers these days have a built-in "counterfeiting prevention feature" that prints a slightly off-size copy to prevent people from printing money. Others have less than sufficiently exact sizing scales. At best, if copying a scale, you have to fiddle a lot to adjust the sizing on the machine to get an exactly accurate copy.  These printable scales, being in digital format and not going through a copier, may well have overcome those limitations.
 
 
 

Chartpak graphic tape is still readily available. Good stuff, but not specificially designed for masking. https://www.staples.com/chartpak-graphic-chart-tape-glossy-black-1-16-x-648-bg6201/product_909815?cid=PS:MS:SBD:PLA:OS&msclkid=31dd847c9edb12ca8a61e08eaf6a5f95&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=%23PLA%2F_(1)_BNG_(2)_US_(7)_GEN_(9)_Office Supplies|&utm_term=4581252648129840&utm_content=All Products&dclid=CMmJpfiJioEDFWXArQAdoK0E5A
 
I've found Tamiya a bit pricey and often wider than needed, which makes taping curved edges somewhat more difficult. My "go to" for masking fine lines is 3M (Scotch) Fine Line masking tape sold primarily for auto painting jobs. It comes in varying widths: 1/8", 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2".  Not cheap, either, but a roll will last practically forever for modeling purposes. Most auto body and fender supply shops have it on hand.  https://www.amazon.com/3M-06302-Fine-Line-Masking/dp/B00HSCMCL8/ref=sr_1_10?adgrpid=1337006711851222&hvadid=83563242241651&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=43893&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83563282543041%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=2082_13504107&keywords=3m+fine+line+masking+tape&qid=1693594490&sr=8-10
 
There's also another brand similar to 3M's that looks the same and may be less costly, although I haven't tried it. It's called "Lime Line." https://www.amazon.com/s?k=3m+fine+line+masking+tape&adgrpid=1337006711851222&hvadid=83563242241651&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=43893&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83563282543041%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=2082_13504107&tag=mh0b-20&ref=pd_sl_1c1kh9zkry_e
 
I'll add the reminder that all masking tapes, and particularly the expensive fine line stuff, should be kept in a ziplock plastic bag at all times when not being used to prevent the adhesive from drying out. Also, tape rolls should never be laid down flat so that their sides can pick up dust and grit. If the side of the roll is contaminated with dirt, the edge of the tape will carry that dirt and grit to the work and you'll end up with ragged edges and dirt in your paint job. Always keep your tape in a zipped up plastic bag and don't lay it down anywhere except in the bag!  

Believe it or not, all the way down here in Petaluma, CA, (Sonoma Wine Country north of San Francisco,) we've had "spare the air" days and the elementary schools kept the kids indoors at recess time a few times last week because of all the smoke from the fires up along the California/Oregon border. We're no strangers to wild fires down here. (We lost over 3,000 tract homes in one in nearby Santa Rosa in the 2017 Tubbs Fire, California's most destructive in history... so far.) I can only imagine how bad it is up there for you guys. Your fires have been burning for a long time now! Keep safe!

Chartpak graphic tape is still readily available. Good stuff, but not specificially designed for masking. https://www.staples.com/chartpak-graphic-chart-tape-glossy-black-1-16-x-648-bg6201/product_909815?cid=PS:MS:SBD:PLA:OS&msclkid=31dd847c9edb12ca8a61e08eaf6a5f95&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=%23PLA%2F_(1)_BNG_(2)_US_(7)_GEN_(9)_Office Supplies|&utm_term=4581252648129840&utm_content=All Products&dclid=CMmJpfiJioEDFWXArQAdoK0E5A
 
I've found Tamiya a bit pricey and often wider than needed, which makes taping curved edges somewhat more difficult. My "go to" for masking fine lines is 3M (Scotch) Fine Line masking tape sold primarily for auto painting jobs. It comes in varying widths: 1/8", 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2".  Not cheap, either, but a roll will last practically forever for modeling purposes. Most auto body and fender supply shops have it on hand.  https://www.amazon.com/3M-06302-Fine-Line-Masking/dp/B00HSCMCL8/ref=sr_1_10?adgrpid=1337006711851222&hvadid=83563242241651&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=43893&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83563282543041%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=2082_13504107&keywords=3m+fine+line+masking+tape&qid=1693594490&sr=8-10
 
There's also another brand similar to 3M's that looks the same and may be less costly, although I haven't tried it. It's called "Lime Line." https://www.amazon.com/s?k=3m+fine+line+masking+tape&adgrpid=1337006711851222&hvadid=83563242241651&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=43893&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83563282543041%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=2082_13504107&tag=mh0b-20&ref=pd_sl_1c1kh9zkry_e
 
I'll add the reminder that all masking tapes, and particularly the expensive fine line stuff, should be kept in a ziplock plastic bag at all times when not being used to prevent the adhesive from drying out. Also, tape rolls should never be laid down flat so that their sides can pick up dust and grit. If the side of the roll is contaminated with dirt, the edge of the tape will carry that dirt and grit to the work and you'll end up with ragged edges and dirt in your paint job. Always keep your tape in a zipped up plastic bag and don't lay it down anywhere except in the bag!  

Believe it or not, all the way down here in Petaluma, CA, (Sonoma Wine Country north of San Francisco,) we've had "spare the air" days and the elementary schools kept the kids indoors at recess time a few times last week because of all the smoke from the fires up along the California/Oregon border. We're no strangers to wild fires down here. (We lost over 3,000 tract homes in one in nearby Santa Rosa in the 2017 Tubbs Fire, California's most destructive in history... so far.) I can only imagine how bad it is up there for you guys. Your fires have been burning for a long time now! Keep safe!

Chartpak graphic tape is still readily available. Good stuff, but not specificially designed for masking. https://www.staples.com/chartpak-graphic-chart-tape-glossy-black-1-16-x-648-bg6201/product_909815?cid=PS:MS:SBD:PLA:OS&msclkid=31dd847c9edb12ca8a61e08eaf6a5f95&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=%23PLA%2F_(1)_BNG_(2)_US_(7)_GEN_(9)_Office Supplies|&utm_term=4581252648129840&utm_content=All Products&dclid=CMmJpfiJioEDFWXArQAdoK0E5A
 
I've found Tamiya a bit pricey and often wider than needed, which makes taping curved edges somewhat more difficult. My "go to" for masking fine lines is 3M (Scotch) Fine Line masking tape sold primarily for auto painting jobs. It comes in varying widths: 1/8", 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2".  Not cheap, either, but a roll will last practically forever for modeling purposes. Most auto body and fender supply shops have it on hand.  https://www.amazon.com/3M-06302-Fine-Line-Masking/dp/B00HSCMCL8/ref=sr_1_10?adgrpid=1337006711851222&hvadid=83563242241651&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=43893&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83563282543041%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=2082_13504107&keywords=3m+fine+line+masking+tape&qid=1693594490&sr=8-10
 
There's also another brand similar to 3M's that looks the same and may be less costly, although I haven't tried it. It's called "Lime Line." https://www.amazon.com/s?k=3m+fine+line+masking+tape&adgrpid=1337006711851222&hvadid=83563242241651&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=43893&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83563282543041%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=2082_13504107&tag=mh0b-20&ref=pd_sl_1c1kh9zkry_e
 
I'll add the reminder that all masking tapes, and particularly the expensive fine line stuff, should be kept in a ziplock plastic bag at all times when not being used to prevent the adhesive from drying out. Also, tape rolls should never be laid down flat so that their sides can pick up dust and grit. If the side of the roll is contaminated with dirt, the edge of the tape will carry that dirt and grit to the work and you'll end up with ragged edges and dirt in your paint job. Always keep your tape in a zipped up plastic bag and don't lay it down anywhere except in the bag!  

Chartpak graphic tape is still readily available. Good stuff, but not specificially designed for masking. https://www.staples.com/chartpak-graphic-chart-tape-glossy-black-1-16-x-648-bg6201/product_909815?cid=PS:MS:SBD:PLA:OS&msclkid=31dd847c9edb12ca8a61e08eaf6a5f95&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=%23PLA%2F_(1)_BNG_(2)_US_(7)_GEN_(9)_Office Supplies|&utm_term=4581252648129840&utm_content=All Products&dclid=CMmJpfiJioEDFWXArQAdoK0E5A
 
I've found Tamiya a bit pricey and often wider than needed, which makes taping curved edges somewhat more difficult. My "go to" for masking fine lines is 3M (Scotch) Fine Line masking tape sold primarily for auto painting jobs. It comes in varying widths: 1/8", 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2".  Not cheap, either, but a roll will last practically forever for modeling purposes. Most auto body and fender supply shops have it on hand.  https://www.amazon.com/3M-06302-Fine-Line-Masking/dp/B00HSCMCL8/ref=sr_1_10?adgrpid=1337006711851222&hvadid=83563242241651&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=43893&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83563282543041%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=2082_13504107&keywords=3m+fine+line+masking+tape&qid=1693594490&sr=8-10
 
There's also another brand similar to 3M's that looks the same and may be less costly, although I haven't tried it. It's called "Lime Line." https://www.amazon.com/s?k=3m+fine+line+masking+tape&adgrpid=1337006711851222&hvadid=83563242241651&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=43893&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83563282543041%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=2082_13504107&tag=mh0b-20&ref=pd_sl_1c1kh9zkry_e
 
I'll add the reminder that all masking tapes, and particularly the expensive fine line stuff, should be kept in a ziplock plastic bag at all times when not being used to prevent the adhesive from drying out. Also, tape rolls should never be laid down flat so that their sides can pick up dust and grit. If the side of the roll is contaminated with dirt, the edge of the tape will carry that dirt and grit to the work and you'll end up with ragged edges and dirt in your paint job. Always keep your tape in a zipped up plastic bag and don't lay it down anywhere except in the bag!  

Chartpak graphic tape is still readily available. Good stuff, but not specificially designed for masking. https://www.staples.com/chartpak-graphic-chart-tape-glossy-black-1-16-x-648-bg6201/product_909815?cid=PS:MS:SBD:PLA:OS&msclkid=31dd847c9edb12ca8a61e08eaf6a5f95&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=%23PLA%2F_(1)_BNG_(2)_US_(7)_GEN_(9)_Office Supplies|&utm_term=4581252648129840&utm_content=All Products&dclid=CMmJpfiJioEDFWXArQAdoK0E5A
 
I've found Tamiya a bit pricey and often wider than needed, which makes taping curved edges somewhat more difficult. My "go to" for masking fine lines is 3M (Scotch) Fine Line masking tape sold primarily for auto painting jobs. It comes in varying widths: 1/8", 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2".  Not cheap, either, but a roll will last practically forever for modeling purposes. Most auto body and fender supply shops have it on hand.  https://www.amazon.com/3M-06302-Fine-Line-Masking/dp/B00HSCMCL8/ref=sr_1_10?adgrpid=1337006711851222&hvadid=83563242241651&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=43893&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83563282543041%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=2082_13504107&keywords=3m+fine+line+masking+tape&qid=1693594490&sr=8-10
 
There's also another brand similar to 3M's that looks the same and may be less costly, although I haven't tried it. It's called "Lime Line." https://www.amazon.com/s?k=3m+fine+line+masking+tape&adgrpid=1337006711851222&hvadid=83563242241651&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=43893&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83563282543041%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=2082_13504107&tag=mh0b-20&ref=pd_sl_1c1kh9zkry_e
 
I'll add the reminder that all masking tapes, and particularly the expensive fine line stuff, should be kept in a ziplock plastic bag at all times when not being used to prevent the adhesive from drying out. Also, tape rolls should never be laid down flat so that their sides can pick up dust and grit. If the side of the roll is contaminated with dirt, the edge of the tape will carry that dirt and grit to the work and you'll end up with ragged edges and dirt in your paint job. Always keep your tape in a zipped up plastic bag and don't lay it down anywhere except in the bag!  

Chartpak graphic tape is still readily available. Good stuff, but not specificially designed for masking. https://www.staples.com/chartpak-graphic-chart-tape-glossy-black-1-16-x-648-bg6201/product_909815?cid=PS:MS:SBD:PLA:OS&msclkid=31dd847c9edb12ca8a61e08eaf6a5f95&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=%23PLA%2F_(1)_BNG_(2)_US_(7)_GEN_(9)_Office Supplies|&utm_term=4581252648129840&utm_content=All Products&dclid=CMmJpfiJioEDFWXArQAdoK0E5A
 
I've found Tamiya a bit pricey and often wider than needed, which makes taping curved edges somewhat more difficult. My "go to" for masking fine lines is 3M (Scotch) Fine Line masking tape sold primarily for auto painting jobs. It comes in varying widths: 1/8", 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2".  Not cheap, either, but a roll will last practically forever for modeling purposes. Most auto body and fender supply shops have it on hand.  https://www.amazon.com/3M-06302-Fine-Line-Masking/dp/B00HSCMCL8/ref=sr_1_10?adgrpid=1337006711851222&hvadid=83563242241651&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=43893&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83563282543041%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=2082_13504107&keywords=3m+fine+line+masking+tape&qid=1693594490&sr=8-10
 
There's also another brand similar to 3M's that looks the same and may be less costly, although I haven't tried it. It's called "Lime Line." https://www.amazon.com/s?k=3m+fine+line+masking+tape&adgrpid=1337006711851222&hvadid=83563242241651&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=43893&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83563282543041%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=2082_13504107&tag=mh0b-20&ref=pd_sl_1c1kh9zkry_e
 
I'll add the reminder that all masking tapes, and particularly the expensive fine line stuff, should be kept in a ziplock plastic bag at all times when not being used to prevent the adhesive from drying out. Also, tape rolls should never be laid down flat so that their sides can pick up dust and grit. If the side of the roll is contaminated with dirt, the edge of the tape will carry that dirt and grit to the work and you'll end up with ragged edges and dirt in your paint job. Always keep your tape in a zipped up plastic bag and don't lay it down anywhere except in the bag!  

Chartpak graphic tape is still readily available. Good stuff, but not specificially designed for masking. https://www.staples.com/chartpak-graphic-chart-tape-glossy-black-1-16-x-648-bg6201/product_909815?cid=PS:MS:SBD:PLA:OS&msclkid=31dd847c9edb12ca8a61e08eaf6a5f95&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=%23PLA%2F_(1)_BNG_(2)_US_(7)_GEN_(9)_Office Supplies|&utm_term=4581252648129840&utm_content=All Products&dclid=CMmJpfiJioEDFWXArQAdoK0E5A
 
I've found Tamiya a bit pricey and often wider than needed, which makes taping curved edges somewhat more difficult. My "go to" for masking fine lines is 3M (Scotch) Fine Line masking tape sold primarily for auto painting jobs. It comes in varying widths: 1/8", 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2".  Not cheap, either, but a roll will last practically forever for modeling purposes. Most auto body and fender supply shops have it on hand.  https://www.amazon.com/3M-06302-Fine-Line-Masking/dp/B00HSCMCL8/ref=sr_1_10?adgrpid=1337006711851222&hvadid=83563242241651&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=43893&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83563282543041%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=2082_13504107&keywords=3m+fine+line+masking+tape&qid=1693594490&sr=8-10
 
There's also another brand similar to 3M's that looks the same and may be less costly, although I haven't tried it. It's called "Lime Line." https://www.amazon.com/s?k=3m+fine+line+masking+tape&adgrpid=1337006711851222&hvadid=83563242241651&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=43893&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83563282543041%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=2082_13504107&tag=mh0b-20&ref=pd_sl_1c1kh9zkry_e
 
I'll add the reminder that all masking tapes, and particularly the expensive fine line stuff, should be kept in a ziplock plastic bag at all times when not being used to prevent the adhesive from drying out. Also, tape rolls should never be laid down flat so that their sides can pick up dust and grit. If the side of the roll is contaminated with dirt, the edge of the tape will carry that dirt and grit to the work and you'll end up with ragged edges and dirt in your paint job. Always keep your tape in a zipped up plastic bag and don't lay it down anywhere except in the bag!  

Like a lot of "Old Pharts," I'm familiar with Marine Models Company kits from years gone by. They were high quality kits for their time, equivalent to the old Model Shipways "yellow box" kits. What you see above is what you get. Their plans were generally well done, but don't expect an "idiot-proof" step-by-step instruction manual and laser-cut wooden parts.  Kit manufacturers fifty years ago in an age when most gentlemen had a certain degree of manual arts skills acquired from the osmosis of life, if nothing else, expected more of their customers that they would be entitled to expect from today's generation of "keyboard jockeys."   Regrettably, some of MMCo.'s metal castings seem to have contained a fair amount of lead and may be subject to deterioration from oxidation. They should be able to be replicated in cast resin, using the lead originals as patterns.
 
What these kits provided were a set of plans, a rough, machine-carved solid basswood hull, a few metal fittings, some dowel spars, and string. It would be an excellent "transitional" model, for one interested in the clipper ships and looking to make "the leap into hyperspace" to scratch building. (Or "go over to the dark side" as some may believe!) This is a 1:192 (1/16" to the foot) model which will limit the detail one will be able to provide and it will otherwise pose a challenge in terms of its relatively small scale but it is still capable of producing a nice model if built with care and attention. 
 
Red Jacket was the first ship of the White Star Line and had a long live in many trades. She appears to be very well documented and there is a lot of information and plans for her online.
 

 
A forumite build a very nice example of the very similar Bluejacket Shipcrafters' Red Jacket 1:96 scale solid hull model and posted a piece on the completion of that build. (See:
 

 
 

I believe the main reason is because, as I was taught, at least, you never take a measurement off your drawings and transfer it to your material. Not ever.
 
I suppose one might get away with doing that when modeling, and I've certainly done it on more than one occasion, but it is decidedly bad practice, or so we were taught. This is because the drawing can never be trusted and the stated measurement taken up; from a scale rule is always the more accurate measure. This principle is more critical in large-scale high-tolerance engineering drawings and much less so in small-scale architectural or cartographic drawings, but none the less, "best practices" dictate it in all circumstances.
 
It is also easier and faster when drafting or building to use a rule scaled to the scale you are working with than to mathematically calculate the scale equivalent from a full-scale rule. This is particularly so when one is not picking up lines from a drawing, but rather working from the stated measurements on the drawings. When working from stated measurements on the drawings, picking them up at the drawing's scale, or any other scale, is most simply and efficiently done by picking the stated distance up from the proper scaled rule. The fewer transitions of the physical measurement, the less opportunity for error.
 
Of course, in many instances, the need for a rule in any scale other than 1:1 can be eliminated by the use of a good decimally scaled set of proportional dividers.
 
 

Sealing bare wood before painting is decidedly a good idea, particularly considering the open-grained species provided by many kit manufacturers. For a number of very good reasons, my own preference for sealing is clear ("white") shellac which can be purchased pre-mixed at most any paint or hardware store. (Zinsser 1-qt. Clear Shellac Traditional Finish and Sealer (Case of 4) 00304H - The Home Depot) Shellac is compatible with all common coatings, whether oil or water based. There is no need to apply anything over shellac before painting nor anything over the paint after painting. The less applied to the model, the better, so as to avoid the loss of crisp detail from thick coating applications.

Sarcasm? Not quite sure. Could it be that Floquil paint is again available? I checked eBay where there has long been old bottles of Floquil offered for sale, but now I see a lot more and a new style label for "Floquil Marine Colors." I don't recall Floquil ever having a line of marine colors. "Railroad colors," yes, but "marine," no. Could it possibly be true that Floquil is being made again? "I love the smell of Dio-sol in the morning... Smells like... like modeling!"
 
I sure did love Floquil paints, as did everybody. Just like doing anything your mother used to yell at you about because "it might put your eye out" guaranteed it would really be fun, Floquil seems to have proven the point that whatever they say might cause the loss of brain cells and destroy the environment as we know it guaranteed to be the best stuff for the job!  
 
 

Let me say at the outset that Kurt Van Dahm (kurtvd19 - Model Ship World™) is the expert on all things airbrush around here. You should shoot him a message and I'm sure he will be happy to give you the best answer you will get from anybody. He is also some sort of a rep for Badger Airbrush Co., I believe. Anyway, he can recommend the best airbrush and compressor to acquire in your price range and probably know where to get the best deal on it.
 
As for your question about thinning acrylic paint for airbrushing, the answer is yes, it is entirely possible to thin regular acrylic paint to the consistency required for airbrushing. (In fact, most airbrushers condition all their paint for airbrushing regardless of what some manufacturer says on their tiny overpriced bottles. Pre-thinned paint "for airbrushing" is just paying good money for more cheap thinner and less expensive pigment!) That said, you should be very careful to use the particular paint's manufacturer's recommended thinner. Some acrylics are thinned with water and some with alcohol and some with a proprietary thinner which is probably alcohol and Windex or something, but who knows for sure.  YouTube is full of videos teaching how to make your own acrylic paint thinners to save money.  Such homebrews should always be tested before use on a finished piece, of course.
 
Many hobby paint manufacturers sell clear flat coatings for spraying over finishes that are too glossy. Flattening solutions can also be added to the paint and many manufacturers sell their paint not only in many colors, but also in a variety of finishes between flat and high gloss. I only use flat finishes on ship models. Gloss finishes are for automobile models, I expect. 
 
While I have had good results with alcohol-thinned acrylic paints, water-thinned acrylic paints have proven something of a challenge. Airbrushing is designed to spray atomized paint on a surface where it dries very quickly. Unlike alcohol, water doesn't dry quickly at all and it's easy to spray "wet on wet" and make a mess of it. For this reason, I am not a fan of water-thinned acrylic paint, or any other acrylic paint (for a variety of reasons,) but that is just my own personal preference. I have gone increasingly to using tubed artists' oil paints, which can be thinned with any number of solvents with different drying characteristics and can be conditioned with retarding or accelerating agents and flattening additives to achieve a wide range of effects. In the long run, quality artists' oil paint is far less expensive than small bottles of paint sold by the hobby companies, of better quality in many cases, and much easier to mix your own colors from a small pallete of basic colors. Other folks' mileage may differ, I'm sure.

Sarcasm? Not quite sure. Could it be that Floquil paint is again available? I checked eBay where there has long been old bottles of Floquil offered for sale, but now I see a lot more and a new style label for "Floquil Marine Colors." I don't recall Floquil ever having a line of marine colors. "Railroad colors," yes, but "marine," no. Could it possibly be true that Floquil is being made again? "I love the smell of Dio-sol in the morning... Smells like... like modeling!"
 
I sure did love Floquil paints, as did everybody. Just like doing anything your mother used to yell at you about because "it might put your eye out" guaranteed it would really be fun, Floquil seems to have proven the point that whatever they say might cause the loss of brain cells and destroy the environment as we know it guaranteed to be the best stuff for the job!  
 
 

Sealing bare wood before painting is decidedly a good idea, particularly considering the open-grained species provided by many kit manufacturers. For a number of very good reasons, my own preference for sealing is clear ("white") shellac which can be purchased pre-mixed at most any paint or hardware store. (Zinsser 1-qt. Clear Shellac Traditional Finish and Sealer (Case of 4) 00304H - The Home Depot) Shellac is compatible with all common coatings, whether oil or water based. There is no need to apply anything over shellac before painting nor anything over the paint after painting. The less applied to the model, the better, so as to avoid the loss of crisp detail from thick coating applications.

Sarcasm? Not quite sure. Could it be that Floquil paint is again available? I checked eBay where there has long been old bottles of Floquil offered for sale, but now I see a lot more and a new style label for "Floquil Marine Colors." I don't recall Floquil ever having a line of marine colors. "Railroad colors," yes, but "marine," no. Could it possibly be true that Floquil is being made again? "I love the smell of Dio-sol in the morning... Smells like... like modeling!"
 
I sure did love Floquil paints, as did everybody. Just like doing anything your mother used to yell at you about because "it might put your eye out" guaranteed it would really be fun, Floquil seems to have proven the point that whatever they say might cause the loss of brain cells and destroy the environment as we know it guaranteed to be the best stuff for the job!