overdale
-
Posts
354 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by overdale
-
You are right Jan, I just thought it might be a bit more civilized in a machine!!! I have some fine sandblasting silica glass beads for delicate materials, that might work, its white and will go through a sieve!
-
Well not quite round, but 'rounder' The pre-drilled wooden rigging blocks supplied in many kits are not very realistic looking. They are square and not oval in shape. This is unavoidable due to the way they are produced. When the budget is not an issue, beautiful scale blocks can be obtained from specialist suppliers but it can get expensive for a large ship. Model Expo sells a device which is pretty much a plastic cup with some glass-paper paddles inside, you drop the blocks in and turn the handle and the corners are worn off the blocks by a tumbling action against the glass-paper. I tried it, and while it does work, the results are hit and miss.Some blocks are good, others hardly touched. I am going to buy one of those tumblers used for polishing stones by rock collectors. They appear to be around $30-$60 for a reasonable 'low tech' one. http://www.hobbywarehouse.com/101-MP-1-Rock-Tumbler-with-Accys?gclid=CMOSjNqtk7YCFUWd4AodF2EAsg The trick will be finding out what abrasive to tumble the blocks with to get the right amount of 'corner' rubbed off. Has anyone else tried this or am I 'boldly going where no modeler has gone before'..? Dan O'Neill.
-
Most informative. I hadn't realised the thicknesser was a sander. One of the reasons I haven't bought a thicknesser was because of the maintenence that blade thicknessers require (sharpening). I shall look into getting one. (and I'll try to pay more attention to what's going on!) Thanks.! Dan. -
I'm getting mightily sick of having to throw out 20% of an order for machined wood because it's such poor quality. I'm seriously thinking about just making my own. (At least I would only have myself to blame then! )
-
Santisima Trinidad By Dusty
overdale replied to Dusty's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Nice work Dusty. An impressive model that clearly required a lot of skill (and patience) to build. Dan. -
This lovely model is very much in the tradition of those huge Victorian model sailing yachts that are now so valuable they are in glass cases and we never see them sailing. Really looking forward to seeing this finished and taking it's rightful place on the water.
-
This subject is the next in a series for a client who buys and restores old speedboats and cruisers. It's a 1929 33 foot Baby Gar speedboat which will measure 33 inches (hopefully) when complete. I'm afraid it's all rather rough at the moment but I have reached the staining phase and with some time and a lot of coats of varnish it might finish up ok! Basic frames and first planking. Plywood skin for the decks. Mahogany outer planking. How it should look when finished. A similar boat.
-
I tend to paint as much as I can before it is put in place. Waterlines are best done using masking tape. Wales are best painted in place but sometimes you can paint the edges before you install them.
-
If you are uncomfortable with steaming wood you could try a plank 'nipper' (Amati makes a very good one) that crimps a curve into the plank from the rear. For thicker planks I sometimes soak it first and then use the nipper. I find I have much more control over the whole process than bending a wet plank and then putting it in place hoping it's been steamed enough and won't break. A nipper is a lot quicker too, but in the end, it's what works best for you. Worth a try though.
-
What an elegant model. Sometimes a large scale can be less flattering to a model (I know from bitter experience!) but this size really suits the subject. Looking forward to seeing more.
-
Coloring Basswood
overdale replied to JPett's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Basswood is a very useful timber depending on the scale. I built a large static model of a 1930's commuter cruiser (6 feet long!) for a client last year using Basswood exclusively The real thing was built of teak and the Basswood grain mimicked it perfectly. I stained the sheets of Basswood using Minwax stain/sealer before I cut them, taking care to match similar sheets together. Here is a link to a photoshow of the whole process. http://www.photoshow.com/watch/TU7vB9FI -
Preiser make a set of 6 figures in parts that can be animated in all sorts of ways. They are produced in 1/24th and 1/32nd scale. They are excellent figures that are nude so you need to sculpt clothes onto them but thats better than having to scrape the clothes off them! I use them quite a lot for whaleboat crews etc., the downside is they are quite expensive. Google unpainted Preiser nude figures and you should find a few sources.
-
I can't remember if I posted this on the old site but there is a manufacturer in Croatia called Maristella that produces kits of some very interesting subjects. They don't look too difficult and are certainly a little more unusual. the address is, http://www.marisstella.hr/marisstella_modeli.php?lang=eng
Our Emblem ®
