pete48

OK   today I finally decided to fix the winches. I made them in an early post just to have something and to experiment with different materials. I never really liked them; painted wood just doesn't get it for me. In the end everything else except the 10 blocks are brass. So here we go on the next effort to make them in brass.  I was encouraged while scrounging at the local hardware store by finding architectural posts and next to them small brass note book binding pins. Round head with post and screw in end.
 
 Here we have the real fittings.  Please note for the foreward deck we have a new Murray winch with a jam cleat top.  This design option avoids adding two more jam cleats to the fore deck  just forward of the combing where folks likely stand or sit.  With two or three sailors in the boat the jib sheet is managed off this winch and cleat and the side winches enjoy the ride. Murray has effectively become the vendor for small boat bronze winches.   FYI it cost $65 just to ship it here from New Zealand  
So first lets look at the regular side deck winch,
 
  here we see the wood proto type, the new binding pins, various washers, cut pipe for barrels and the glue up stage of the bottom brass washers creating the bottom handle slots and set screw for one of the new winches.  
 here are the two new winches under big brother.  They are not anywhere as nice as turned brass especially due to the straight barrels.  I may get to that later in the spring.  I hope these are good for now. . For the 2 side winches I turned the binding pin upside down so I could drill the round end and add the small top screw.  
 Here I turned the pin screw right side up.  I used a side grinder to cut a way the screw head to simulate the cleat.  I added two barrels.  I need to get another size 6 brass washer that is filling the hole.  I just used AC to hold the washers etc. and by screwing the pin together it is very firm; sort of a sandwich.  
I could not wait to put them on the boat. There is nothing but glue holding them down.  If I loose one, I can replace it easily enough.  Then I will figure how to add a screw to screw it down.  
cheers

Michael
 
I am happy top read this post. i think it means we need not carve our boats names. I found the old sign board for my real boat and both my rear admiral and i vetoed it.  The font was cartoon like and all small letters.The were decals on mahogany.  We spent a while thinking about carving a sign board since last year we got one for our catspaw dinghy and it was great.
 
to my point...we have agreed to go with vinyl marine paste on from DIY on line lettering for BITTERSWEET. it will be about 24 inches long.  They also allowed me to down size to model boat scale [ 1;6 so 4 inch name]and buy them to match.  
 
anyway keep going the crisp clean lines are a joy to watch as this wonderful large scale comes together
 
cheers

If that was your first attempt at carved lettering - well done, Michael! And that you used a simple #11 blade rather than miniature carving tools is even more remarkable.

What Druxey said!
 
John

Hi Michael, That's about what I went with on the first one, on the current one I went with 4" at the transom and 9" at the forward bulkhead ( that's finish without the coamings )
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Build part 26
 
Just to try my hand in something a little different after reading about Dave's wonderful carving work on his Sovereign of the Seas.
I realized that a nameplate might be an easy start not having done this sort of work.
 
I used a small piece of my English boxwood as much as anything for the contrast in woods it is also a bit crisper and more dense than the Costello
 
I began with the letters as simple incised ones.
 

 
it is about an inch long.
 

 
After what seemed like half a day about 5hours in total I used a bit of double sided tape to see how it looks on the forward bulkhead.
 

 

 
I think that I will leave the carving for those more suited to it, it was challenging and I constantly worried about chopping off the end of my thumb. it was all accomplished with a trusty number 11 Exacto blade.
 
michael

Hi Michael, Nicely done, Curious, what did you end up with for a deck width at the transom? 
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Today, With a high temperature of 28, ( about 0 C) and an impending snow storm, I decided I would get all the floor timbers installed. I started with Installing the Forward bulkhead, I then installed the Centerboard box, Once the centerboard box was installed, I used a template that I made to lay out the Floor timber lengths, I then measured and cut and installed all the Floor beams. I then turned my attention to making and installing the 2 blocks  at the front bulkhead, Everything to this point has been glued with Titebond 3. Next will be to install the rear cockpit bulkhead and seal up the bilge. Here are the results

Thank you, Deon, On the second one, I am doing some things that I wished I had done on the first one 
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Here is an update on No. 2 the ribs are bent the Stem, Transom and Knee are made. The Keel is bent and ready to be laid. I think this keel will finish better than on No. 1 Here is where she is at 

Thanks, Piet, Its all smoke and mirrors, I cheated the metal parts are super glued together, as soon as I use the soldering gun its all over, I make a big melted blob of brass and solder. I did use brass. The Mast is made from 1/4" square stock out of Alder, the Boom is made from basswood. to lay out the mast, I first cut to length, in this case the mast is 24' ( scale ) I then mark the sail slot side of the mast ( this side has no taper ) I then mark and cut the taper on the front of the mast, in this case the taper is 1/8" to 0 from the mast head to the base ( top of the deck ) I then mark and cut the taper on both sides of the mast  wich is 1/16" to 0 from the mast head to the spreaders. Then its a matter of rounding off the edges and giving the leading edge a foil shape ( I leave the sail slot side of the mast alone as this has to remain straight ) I would like to get some Sitka spruce for the Haven mast, I get the Alder from Home Depot ( I try to find the tightest grain possible ) 
 
Thank You, Mark, I am pleased with how the colors turned out, I am going for that Classic look , like you see in Wooden Boat magazine
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Beautiful job, mate!
 
John

Sweet! She's looking good.

What a nice lines as to a boat.  I always loved the 14.your work is so clean...fun to watch so thansk for sharing
 
cheers

Thanks, Piet, Its all smoke and mirrors, I cheated the metal parts are super glued together, as soon as I use the soldering gun its all over, I make a big melted blob of brass and solder. I did use brass. The Mast is made from 1/4" square stock out of Alder, the Boom is made from basswood. to lay out the mast, I first cut to length, in this case the mast is 24' ( scale ) I then mark the sail slot side of the mast ( this side has no taper ) I then mark and cut the taper on the front of the mast, in this case the taper is 1/8" to 0 from the mast head to the base ( top of the deck ) I then mark and cut the taper on both sides of the mast  wich is 1/16" to 0 from the mast head to the spreaders. Then its a matter of rounding off the edges and giving the leading edge a foil shape ( I leave the sail slot side of the mast alone as this has to remain straight ) I would like to get some Sitka spruce for the Haven mast, I get the Alder from Home Depot ( I try to find the tightest grain possible ) 
 
Thank You, Mark, I am pleased with how the colors turned out, I am going for that Classic look , like you see in Wooden Boat magazine
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Thank You, Patrick, I have been having a lot of fun building this one, I am enjoying working on a  larger scale, I have been able to use more actual Boat Building techniques wich is nice 
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Today,  after applying varnish to the Buzzards Bay 14, I concentrated on getting the rear deck beams installed and apply teak to the rear cockpit bulkhead. I started by laying out the access hole in the Bulkhead and then applied teak strips. While that was drying, I laid out the supports for the rear deck beams and installed them. I then installed the beams. I then trimmed the teak off the bulkhead and sanded it to 320 grit sandpaper. the bulkheads and center board box are dry fit. Here are the results

Here is an update on the 12 1/2 one-off, I figured out what needed to happen to make the frames work out. Starting with the 12 1/2 plans ( Herreshoff ) measuring from the waterline to the base line , I would have to lower the transom 7/16". so the slope is 7/16" to zero over 16, so this means I would have to remove all the frames, I pondered this since discovering the problem, Today, I decided to remove the frames, this proved to be difficult and I went thru a lot of blades. I will say this Titebond 3 is some really strong stuff, and does not come apart without taking the majority of the wood with it. I then decided that I would cut the remaining frames off at the blocks, fortunately, I was able to save the frames ( I taped them together and put them away ) I then used a framing hammer and a 1" chisel to remove the blocks, I will re-purpose the Baseboard for the Garden Eel. I can't believe that took all day. Here are the results

Thank you, Deon, On the second one, I am doing some things that I wished I had done on the first one 
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Here is an update on No. 2 the ribs are bent the Stem, Transom and Knee are made. The Keel is bent and ready to be laid. I think this keel will finish better than on No. 1 Here is where she is at 

Simply amazing Igor, Beautiful work 
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Today, I started by sanding the Rub and Toe Rails with 400 grit sandpaper. Then something Patrick said, got me to thinking, so I got out my very small metal working tools and made the bow chain plate Masthead and Gooseneck. I then attached the Bow Chain plate and applied the second coat of varnish. I then turned my attention to making the mast and boom, I then made the spreaders. I went with a slightly larger boom so that I could give it a more performance oriented shape ( similar to that found on a Americas cup Boat pre cat ) The Cockpit coamings and gooseneck have not been installed. Next will be to finish the Mast and boom and get it ready for varnish and a third coat on the Rails. Here are the results 

Hi druxey, The Cockpit coamings have not been installed yet and are in the photo's to illustrate how it will look, I still have some more work to do to them
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Today, I started with  the shaping ( rounding off )  the toe and rub rails. I then sanded them up to 600 grit sandpaper. ( starting with 220 and working my way up to 600 ) I then applied the first coat of varnish to the rub and toe rails along with the rudder blade. I then applied a thin coat of varnish to the Hull to fill the in blend line. Next will be to lightly sand with 600 grit sand paper and add the next coat of varnish, and to start making the Spars ( Mast and Boom ) Here are the results

Hi Michael, That's about what I went with on the first one, on the current one I went with 4" at the transom and 9" at the forward bulkhead ( that's finish without the coamings )
 
Best Regards,
Pete