pete48

Well, it looks like I lucked out this time and everything in my previous post showed up as advertise.
 
Today I continued with cutting the last fluke out of that brass sheet stock and filed the last two to size.  Looking at them on the anchor arm they looked just too heavy for scale and flat.  So, I decided to hand machine them down somewhat and at the same time machine a curve into them.  
Yes, it's a lot of work but so what, it's only a few more hours of my time.  I did use diamond impregnated mini grinding wheels though to speed-up the work.  I brought the thickness down to 1.2 mm, not bad at all.  The final shaping was done with a series of files.  I'll wait with the final dressing till after all the parts are soldered on and the anchor is completed.
 
I did not make any pictures of the grinding and filing, all yuns know how to do that - - right?  I also didn't make any pics of the soldering for the same reason and besides I don't have an extra set of arms
 
So then, tomorrow I'll assemble anchor numero duo and put the stock on.  I plan to wrap three straps around each side to secure the two halves together.  That'll be fun, soft soldering the brass straps on the cherry stock without burning them
 
That'll complete both main anchors and I think I need to make a smaller one to display somewhere on the ship.
 
Here are two pics, hope you approve.
 

 

 
Cheers,

Okay, I pasted yesterday's post here and see if I can add the pics in the right sequence.
 
The first thing I did this morning, after my morning cup of coffee, was drive up to Bunnel to the hardware store to buy some brass flat stock for the anchor flukes.
It so happened that when I asked the store attendant if they have numbered drill bits he showed me where.  Oh my, I was in heaven, and bought a bunch of the smallest they have, from # 60 to #56.  Next trip I'll get some more of the other sizes to replenish my drill index box.
 
I was now able to drill the holes for stock locking bolts in the shafts, which was the first thing I did when I got home.   .  Worked just beautiful with brand new USA made #60 drill bit, which is about 1.1 mm and will work just fine with the 1 mm rod I'm using.  I also managed to drill a new hole right next to the one with the broken bit in it.  The stock will hide it. 
 
After that was done I transferred the shape of the fluke to the brass sheet stock, which is 1/16 inch or 1.7 mm.  It's a little on the thick side but all the brass sheet stock I have in house is too thin and the store didn't have the size I really wsanted, soooooh - beggars can't be choosers.  I can always machine them thinner if need be.
 
Well, I was only able to cut out three, using my jeweler's jigsaw and finishing two of them.  I tried cutting them out on the Proxxon jigsaw but that was waiting for breaking a bunch of saw blades.  So back to my old trusted hand held jigsaw that I still have from when I was a kid in Holland.
It only took me 1/2 hour to cut one out, which is not too bad considering - - -  I wanted to finish at least one pair before closing shop for today.
 
I also completed the stocks for both anchors, including the securing bolt holes.
 
Now let's see if the transfer of the pics work out better.  
 

This shows my old trusty jigsaw with a fine tooth metal saw blade.
 

One fluke cut out, ready for dressing it down.
 

Two completed anchor flukes.
 

Here I have placed the two completed flukes on the arm cut-outs.
 

 
Cheers,

I like the subtlety of the colours for the antifouling, topsides, deck & decking timberwork. 

Wow baby, wait a cotton pick'n minute here.  Thou sayest thou hast no metal working skills???  Those metal parts are outstanding!  I'm sure you'll be making all the fittings from brass, yes?
Coming together really nice Pete. 
 
Question, what kind of wood are using for the mast and booms?
Will they be from a one piece dowel?
If so, not afraid of warping later on?
 
Cheers,
 

Thank You, Elijah 
 
Thank You, Greg 
 
Thank You, John
 
Thank You, Patrick, A trailer Wow, I don;t think I have the skills to build one ( my metal working skills are terrible) I think I would need to sub that out to Piet ( He's Got some serious skills ) I do enjoy a good Challenge However building a trailer is out of my Wheel house 
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Today, I started by sanding the Rub and Toe Rails with 400 grit sandpaper. Then something Patrick said, got me to thinking, so I got out my very small metal working tools and made the bow chain plate Masthead and Gooseneck. I then attached the Bow Chain plate and applied the second coat of varnish. I then turned my attention to making the mast and boom, I then made the spreaders. I went with a slightly larger boom so that I could give it a more performance oriented shape ( similar to that found on a Americas cup Boat pre cat ) The Cockpit coamings and gooseneck have not been installed. Next will be to finish the Mast and boom and get it ready for varnish and a third coat on the Rails. Here are the results 

Thank You, Elijah 
 
Thank You, Greg 
 
Thank You, John
 
Thank You, Patrick, A trailer Wow, I don;t think I have the skills to build one ( my metal working skills are terrible) I think I would need to sub that out to Piet ( He's Got some serious skills ) I do enjoy a good Challenge However building a trailer is out of my Wheel house 
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Thank You, Patrick, I have been having a lot of fun building this one, I am enjoying working on a  larger scale, I have been able to use more actual Boat Building techniques wich is nice 
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Thank You, Elijah 
 
Thank You, Greg 
 
Thank You, John
 
Thank You, Patrick, A trailer Wow, I don;t think I have the skills to build one ( my metal working skills are terrible) I think I would need to sub that out to Piet ( He's Got some serious skills ) I do enjoy a good Challenge However building a trailer is out of my Wheel house 
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Today, I started by sanding the Rub and Toe Rails with 400 grit sandpaper. Then something Patrick said, got me to thinking, so I got out my very small metal working tools and made the bow chain plate Masthead and Gooseneck. I then attached the Bow Chain plate and applied the second coat of varnish. I then turned my attention to making the mast and boom, I then made the spreaders. I went with a slightly larger boom so that I could give it a more performance oriented shape ( similar to that found on a Americas cup Boat pre cat ) The Cockpit coamings and gooseneck have not been installed. Next will be to finish the Mast and boom and get it ready for varnish and a third coat on the Rails. Here are the results 

Thank You, Crackers, She's coming together, Hopefully, the looking better trend will continue
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Thank You, Elijah 
 
Thank You, Greg 
 
Thank You, John
 
Thank You, Patrick, A trailer Wow, I don;t think I have the skills to build one ( my metal working skills are terrible) I think I would need to sub that out to Piet ( He's Got some serious skills ) I do enjoy a good Challenge However building a trailer is out of my Wheel house 
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Thank You, Crackers, She's coming together, Hopefully, the looking better trend will continue
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Thank You, Elijah 
 
Thank You, Greg 
 
Thank You, John
 
Thank You, Patrick, A trailer Wow, I don;t think I have the skills to build one ( my metal working skills are terrible) I think I would need to sub that out to Piet ( He's Got some serious skills ) I do enjoy a good Challenge However building a trailer is out of my Wheel house 
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Hi druxey, The Cockpit coamings have not been installed yet and are in the photo's to illustrate how it will look, I still have some more work to do to them
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Today, I started by sanding the Rub and Toe Rails with 400 grit sandpaper. Then something Patrick said, got me to thinking, so I got out my very small metal working tools and made the bow chain plate Masthead and Gooseneck. I then attached the Bow Chain plate and applied the second coat of varnish. I then turned my attention to making the mast and boom, I then made the spreaders. I went with a slightly larger boom so that I could give it a more performance oriented shape ( similar to that found on a Americas cup Boat pre cat ) The Cockpit coamings and gooseneck have not been installed. Next will be to finish the Mast and boom and get it ready for varnish and a third coat on the Rails. Here are the results 

Hi Jon, Looking at that posting sure has me wanting to go Sailing, Beautiful work she's looking good
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Today, I started by sanding the Rub and Toe Rails with 400 grit sandpaper. Then something Patrick said, got me to thinking, so I got out my very small metal working tools and made the bow chain plate Masthead and Gooseneck. I then attached the Bow Chain plate and applied the second coat of varnish. I then turned my attention to making the mast and boom, I then made the spreaders. I went with a slightly larger boom so that I could give it a more performance oriented shape ( similar to that found on a Americas cup Boat pre cat ) The Cockpit coamings and gooseneck have not been installed. Next will be to finish the Mast and boom and get it ready for varnish and a third coat on the Rails. Here are the results 

Much sanding - but now complete. It took about half a day per side using 60 grit emery cloth attached to my home made sanding block - in one of the pictures. The reshaping of some of the frames (mentioned earlier) proved to be necessary. Marking the edges of the frames was very helpful as a sanding guide and the sanded hull passed the "hand undulation check". The frames in the area of the hull at the top of the rudder proved to be incorrectly shaped and i will sort this out prior to 1st planking. I have attached a photo of the real thing to show what I need to reproduce.

Managed to get in a couple of shop hours early this morning, and another couple following our day on the links....absolutely beautiful day.
 
Plenty of rounding and smoothing with some very smooth bits and very fine sanding sticks.

 
Hate to put it down right now, but it's almost poker time.

Today, I started by sanding the Rub and Toe Rails with 400 grit sandpaper. Then something Patrick said, got me to thinking, so I got out my very small metal working tools and made the bow chain plate Masthead and Gooseneck. I then attached the Bow Chain plate and applied the second coat of varnish. I then turned my attention to making the mast and boom, I then made the spreaders. I went with a slightly larger boom so that I could give it a more performance oriented shape ( similar to that found on a Americas cup Boat pre cat ) The Cockpit coamings and gooseneck have not been installed. Next will be to finish the Mast and boom and get it ready for varnish and a third coat on the Rails. Here are the results 

Amazing work Igor, Looks fantastic 
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Thank You, Patrick, I have been having a lot of fun building this one, I am enjoying working on a  larger scale, I have been able to use more actual Boat Building techniques wich is nice 
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Time for another update.
 
This time we reviewed the prototype sail, made a few changes and ordered bittersweet sail 20.
 
 the jib rides the fore stay and thus sits above the turnbuckle.  this is wrong.  the tack should be 1 inch above the deck.  it attaches to the rear hole in the stem cap.  we have two solutions. i will discuss when I decide.  
 we confirmed the sizing and placement of numbers. We combined batten and seam [ the real sail has 5 seams and 4 battens on different lines but it would have been too much at this scale.  Best performance Rod explained would have been 3 seams that form the shape.  So we compromised with 4 and merged them with the battens.  the battens are only for show  
 Here I just had a problem.  I had done everything in CAD and looking at the sail they were just not right.  The boom was too horizontal....too flat.   I took two sticks and made the lines based on the 1938 design.  The foot of the jib rises and then the foot of the Main sail keeps the same line up about one inch.     
  looking at this I decided to reduce the leech one inch and increase the foot one inch.    One needs to remember we previously discussed cutting the foot, to bring it forward 4 inches to reduce area.  
  Finally just to help out as a final tweak, I reduced the luff 1/4 inch  
Making the jib track.  This was a fun project.  The real Bittersweet had a stainless track and mismatched blocks, so we were able to start from scratch. It shall be 1 inch bronze sitting on a teak strip that gets painted with the deck.
 here is the combined slide and block fitting we chose that is really sweet when you compare it to all the other combinations.    
so let's try to make one of these.
 
 As I have said I can rivet. Soldering remains a mystery to me. so where I can I avoid it.  Here are back to back channels being riveted together.  
 here we are in place.  the track is cut down from 1/4 to get to scale one inch. it is sitting on a strip painted like the deck,  It nicely fits inside the the 1/4 channel slide.  The bronze painted blocks still work out and are pinned to the top channel.  The machine bolts go through the deck making this a stable fitting.    
 
 
 
 
Now its time to make the cover.   I went ahead and made up my experimental cover.  I am doing this just following a hunch.  I hope it works.
 
  I went to big box and bought the lightest and thinnest plexi-glass.  
 the first step was to  make strips for the sides and fix them to the inside of the combing.  I used construction paper to give a little gap and used CA to stitch the ends.  
 Here I  rough cut the top to fit and glued it down.  after setting I took it and liberally made glue fillets on the seams. I then made the outside just larger than the combing. I took it to the kitchen and yes it holds water.  Now does that mean it can keep it out?  
 here we are with he cover on, halyards rigged and jib track done.  
cheers 
 
 

Thank You, Crackers, She's coming together, Hopefully, the looking better trend will continue
 
Best Regards,
Pete