UdoK

I was wrong.... about tomorrow for pictures.  Keel #3 went well......  boxwood for the keel and ebony for the false keel.  I'll need to touch the keel notches lightly with a file later when I'm ready to mount it to the frames.  If you're so inclined, clicking on the pics will enlarge them.
 

 
 

Thanks for the Likes!
 
The new Backbone is ready, beside the Modification on the after Deadwood I have cut the Stem Rabbet, tapered the head of the Knee and glued together all the parts.

Thanks for the Likes!
 
The new Backbone is ready, beside the Modification on the after Deadwood I have cut the Stem Rabbet, tapered the head of the Knee and glued together all the parts.

Well, I think I have figured out something what should work.
 
A close comparison of the Hahn plans by the AotS Body lines of the Bounty pointed out that Hahn has drawn the rear Framework to the overall  size including the Planking. It seems he started to increase the Cant Frames from the bottom of the whale towards the sternpost and keel to meet the rabbet.
 
So, I need to reduce the width of Frame 29 - 35 plus the transom wings by the plank thickness for a true and nice run of the Planks into the rabbet.
The Pictures already show a modified deadwood, the thickness of the deadwood is reduced to meet the rabbet.
 
Here we go, making sawdust to see am I right!
 
 
 
 
 
 

OLIVER LANG’S STERN
 
In February 1845, Oliver Lang, Master Shipwright at Woolwich, faced a daunting challenge. The Admiralty, under pressure from Parry, had decided to outfit HMS Erebus and Terror for auxiliary screw propulsion, powered by small passenger locomotives.
 
Screw propulsion was in its infancy and contemporary designs, based on patents filed by Francis Pettit Smith and others, called for the placement of the propeller opening in the deadwood of a steam powered vessel (Bourne 1855:28). However, applying such a modification to polar vessels would critically weaken the stern, and Lang knew from the Terror’s first arctic expedition that even the most robust sternpost was severely vulnerable when overwintering in sea ice. How could he protect the ship’s stern from the pack when a gaping hole had to be cut in the deadwood for the propeller?
 
His solution appears in a plan dated March 17th, 1845, which was subsequently transcribed onto the 1836/37 profile plan for HMS Terror. Instead of altering the ship’s existing stern, Lang simply extended the stern of the ship aft by adding a new keel section, onto which a new rudderpost and aperture for the propeller were attached. The 1836/37 plans seem to show that Terror’s original sternpost had been modified for Back’s voyage,  but the 1845 annotations clearly indicate that Lang reconstructed it to the same configuration used in Terror’s original design (alternately, it is possible that Terror’s stern was not modified in 1836 as planned).
 
Lang’s 1845 design called for a triangular piece of wood to be bolted to the original sternpost, creating a vertical face for the propeller aperture. The new rudderpost and the angled fitting were both tenoned into the keel extension, as indicated by the presence of horizontal bolts on a contemporary model of the design. The entire structure was then bolted to a massive u-shaped “staple knee”, made from 3.5 inch thick iron, which was the same length as the propeller opening.
 
Lang next turned to the problem of protecting the new rudderpost and propeller aperture from ice damage. He settled on a well system which could be used to ship and unship the propeller, similar to a design patented by Joseph Taylor in 1838 (Bourne 1855:32). However, Lang’s system included a new innovation; when the propeller was unshipped, the well would be filled with a series of stacking wooden and steel chocks. The chocks were shaped to match the dimensions of the new rudder post and deadwood and would completely fill the well, thus reinforcing the rudderpost against forces exerted by the ice.
 
Taylor’s patent described that the propeller could be shipped via “vertical grooves cut in the true and false stern posts … in which frame the propeller is placed” (Bourne 1855:32). However, the use of reinforcing chocks required that this system be modified. Lang replaced the grooves in the stern and false stern with robust iron rails which themselves had a vertical slot running much of their length. The protruding rails were necessary to secure the chocks in the propeller well and needed to be very strong to endure the pressures of pack ice (I’ll present more on the configuration of this rail system and the propeller in a subsequent post).
 
While we may never know how Lang’s chock system faired after two years in the grinding pack off King William Island, we can surmise that it must have worked relatively well because the Terror survived its first winter at Beechey Island in sailing condition. Further, we know that the same chock system was installed on the Intrepid and Pioneer (Anonymous 1850:8), steam tenders used in the Franklin search effort, and that both ships survived multiple winters in sea ice before being abandoned in relatively seaworthy condition.
 
Scantlings for Terror’s Sternpost and Rudderpost
 
Sternpost
Sided              
            At Head = 13 and ½ inches
            At Heel = 10 and ¾ inches
 
Moulded depth = 17 and ½ inches
 
Rudderpost
Sided
At Head = 13 and ½ inches
            At Heel = 10 and ¾ inches
 
Moulded depth = 13 and ½ inches
 
 
References:
Anonymous
1850       Naval Intelligence — The Arctic Expedition. The Times.  Monday , 6th May, pg 8.
 
Bourne, John
1855       A Treatise on the Screw Propeller with Various Suggestions for Improvement. Longman, Brown, Green, and Longmans, London. 
 
 

Cut stern pieces prior to assembly.
 

Assembled stern architecture (significant iron work has yet to be installed, and  
the temporary basswood piece is to provide rigidity until the propeller well is completed).
 

Detail of keel piece and opening for the staple knee. 
 

Aft view of the unique rudderpost joint with the keel. 
 

Another view of Lang's design.
 

Sanding two of the sternpost bolsters to match the aft station
(the bolsters provide width needed for the propeller well).
 

Detail after sanding. 
 

Comparing the bolster to the body plan.
 

Completed rudderpost and sternpost bolsters.
 

Two of the bolsters in place, showing how they add width to the stern to accommodate
the propeller well (these aren't glued and cannot be until the bulkhead is attached). 
 
 

Current progress on the stern, keel, and stem. 

Well, I think I have figured out something what should work.
 
A close comparison of the Hahn plans by the AotS Body lines of the Bounty pointed out that Hahn has drawn the rear Framework to the overall  size including the Planking. It seems he started to increase the Cant Frames from the bottom of the whale towards the sternpost and keel to meet the rabbet.
 
So, I need to reduce the width of Frame 29 - 35 plus the transom wings by the plank thickness for a true and nice run of the Planks into the rabbet.
The Pictures already show a modified deadwood, the thickness of the deadwood is reduced to meet the rabbet.
 
Here we go, making sawdust to see am I right!
 
 
 
 
 
 

The whole Frames are adjusted and glued on now.
The keel is still only dry fitted to the construction as I have to cut the rabbet before glueing. To make the keel fit, I chiseled off the spacers between the Frames as again the lasercut was not very accurate. Anyway, due to the use of the scrap wood spacers the structure is solid enough without this.
 
It is good to see the hull slowly taking shape!
Next is to prepare the rest of the half Frame Patterns, same way as before.

Well, I think I have figured out something what should work.
 
A close comparison of the Hahn plans by the AotS Body lines of the Bounty pointed out that Hahn has drawn the rear Framework to the overall  size including the Planking. It seems he started to increase the Cant Frames from the bottom of the whale towards the sternpost and keel to meet the rabbet.
 
So, I need to reduce the width of Frame 29 - 35 plus the transom wings by the plank thickness for a true and nice run of the Planks into the rabbet.
The Pictures already show a modified deadwood, the thickness of the deadwood is reduced to meet the rabbet.
 
Here we go, making sawdust to see am I right!
 
 
 
 
 
 

Well, I think I have figured out something what should work.
 
A close comparison of the Hahn plans by the AotS Body lines of the Bounty pointed out that Hahn has drawn the rear Framework to the overall  size including the Planking. It seems he started to increase the Cant Frames from the bottom of the whale towards the sternpost and keel to meet the rabbet.
 
So, I need to reduce the width of Frame 29 - 35 plus the transom wings by the plank thickness for a true and nice run of the Planks into the rabbet.
The Pictures already show a modified deadwood, the thickness of the deadwood is reduced to meet the rabbet.
 
Here we go, making sawdust to see am I right!
 
 
 
 
 
 

Work on the aft deadwood is well underway, also started the sternposts.
 
Ben

Work on the sternpost has begun, complicated lining up with aft deadwood but moving along slowly is fine by me.
 
Ben

Hi all,
after a break due to several different reason the new Stem and head of the knee from pear is ready.
 
To simulate the caulking I did some Research on different sorts of black paper.
Finally I ended up with the black paper supplied in the Caldercraft kit of my Endeavour. I find it the best result for the strenght of the Joints and thickness.
The paper is 0.18mm thick, converted to real size it makes a caulking of 9mm (11/32") between the Joints what I think is very realistic.
 

Update time... Things have not been quiet in the shipyard.
 
I laminated the plans to some MDF and attached a strip of wood at the reference line.  Also attached the stern framing to this so as not to mis-read any critical dimension.

 
The strip allows me to use the Ed Tool without any induced errors from having it canted slightly.

 
I've marked all the plans with appropriate reference marks and rescanned them all.  Also broke up Version 1.0 in order salvage certain bits..  like everything along the centerline... bitts, grates, pin rails, pumps, capstan, etc., some or all of the deck beams but none of the deck planking.   Also salvaged the mast steps and the stern framing.  I'll use the stern framing for some references.

 
I'm currently cutting out with as much precision as I can muster, a new build board.  I noted that on the old one, there were some frame notches that we either too deep or not deep enough.  Stupidity on my part.  I'll be re-using the previous version of the frame squaring jig (on the right in the picture).

 
Hopefully, in the next week or so, I can start cutting the keel, deadwood, and stem.  Since the wood for framing won't be here until early May, I'm planning on building some sub-assemblies such as most of the deck furniture.   I've located a local source of good birch plywood,  and am considering Woodcraft or the local source for masting materials and some other items.

Rudder was next step, cos i´m waiting for a wood on the work on gallion.  But the end of ship doesnt fit with hole on the deck, so i had it made a fake, but it works

Hi friends,
cannons for assembly on the Gun-Deck prepared.
Karl
 
 
 
T e i l  4 1

Hello friends.
Fitted deck beams provisionally loose
from the Upper Deck  /  Quarter Deck.
 
Karl
 
 
 
 
T e i l   4 0

Hi all,
after a break due to several different reason the new Stem and head of the knee from pear is ready.
 
To simulate the caulking I did some Research on different sorts of black paper.
Finally I ended up with the black paper supplied in the Caldercraft kit of my Endeavour. I find it the best result for the strenght of the Joints and thickness.
The paper is 0.18mm thick, converted to real size it makes a caulking of 9mm (11/32") between the Joints what I think is very realistic.
 

Håkan, if I told you where I found the time, there would be less for me!
 
Mini update ..... I finally released Blanche from the building board she has been bolted to for so long.
 

 
It was with considerable relief that I didn't see any sag or hogging. More relief was due to the fact the whole thing didn't spring apart ......
 
So to avoid breaking off all the tops, I built a little support from some polystyrene glued to some timber ....


 
Which will be clamped into my portable workbench
for external fairing. I quickly took it outside to create some dust and the arrangement worked well. Less pleasing was seeing how much I have to do, as my early woodwork leaves something to be desired .... this is going to take a while.
 
Still, it was nice to see the undersides after all this time.
 

She looks a bit like a beached whale....
 
 
Cheers
Rob
 

Gallery is done. I´m i preparing for a work on the bow. I am a little bit scared out of curved planks. I dont know, if is better to cut stright shape, or use stright plank and curve it.

Hi Guys,
 
Thanks for the comments.
 
Right lets head back to the other end of the ship to work on the bowsprit.  Previously I did a bit of work in positioning the bowsprit on to the stem post which was more or less there.
 
Today I cut the Jib-boom from 4mm dowel and after checking the tapers against the plans marked the various transition points on to both dowels with masking tape and headed out to the shed to the drill press.  Holding the Bowsprit and Jib-boom in the drill press and using various files and grits of paper I put the tapers into the Bowsprit and the Jib-boom.
 
The bowsprit (BS) was left full width near the middle and tapered down towards the front and back.  The Jib-boom was left full width until ti passed the Bowsprit Cap (BSCap) point and then tapered down to the front, leaving a section untouched as it flares out to full width again.
 
 
On to the photos, I placed the hull in my MDF plumb and level jig so I can determine the position of the Bowsprit Cap.  After securing the BS in position with Blu-tac I used the carpenters square to get the vertical position on the BS, since the BSCap is vertical to the waterline.  Once marked up I started to cut the tenon into the end of the BS with razor saw and craft knife.

 
 
Here is the BSCap, as can be seen there is a number of minor problems with it.  Firstly I am pretty sure the mortise for the BS should be square. And secondly the JB hole should be on an angle to match the slope as this will cause problems which will be seen later.  The photo also shows the rough ‘round’ tenon.

 
 
Okay the BS in place and the BSCap positioned vertically with the water line as determined by the carpenters square.  Photo 4 shows the round tenon sticking out.  Once glued up I will trim to length and fill the gaps since it will be painted black and shouldn’t be noticeable that the tenon is round and not square.  I did at one stage think about doing a fake square tenon on the end but since its being painted not worth the effort IMHO.


 
 
Here is the assembly in place showing the shapely JB and the issue with the BSCap JB hole.  If I fittedthe JB through the hole as is the JB would be parallel to the waterline!  So I had to enlarge the hole to incorporate the angle of the JB to the BS so the BSCap hole becomes elongated and therefore not a nice tight fit round the JB.  Again not fussed as this area is painted black so will fill the gaps and paint once everything is fixed.

 
Currently the BSCap is glued up as per photos 3 & 4 and once dry I will continue fitting painting, staining the rest of the components etc.
 
Cheers
Slog

Last post of the year I promise! Bit of serendipity today as I actually read the plans and looked at the replica and the Topgallant shrouds have no ratlines! I'm finished with them! Shrouds and backstays in place. Lots of work on the bowsprit before I can add the last stay. next year it is.

Hmm... not quite November of 2014 as I promised Sjors, but here's the latest. I finished the gunports (thank heavens it's not a 74), added the ebony wales (chain and main), and began working towards the top rails.  The red arrow points to where I need to fill in with either plum or swiss pear.  I'm undecided at this moment and waiting to see how some test wood looks with the Wipe on Poly.
 
I also cut out every other frame between the build board and where the cap rail will be in the midship area.  I need to rotate her around and do the other side now.
 
As for the ebony... if I ever mention on another ship, that I'm planning on using ebony, please do unto me which the Victory did unto Bucentaur at Trafalgar.   Just unload a broadside.   Aggrevating stuff.  The epoxy wasn't holding and required some gel type CA.   I think pear with ebony stain would look as good.
 

Hi guys,
 
Thanks for all the encouraging comments.  Looking forward to seeing another Endeavour build Ross.
 
As anyone who stops by my log knows I tend to jump around a bit and this post is no different    (keeps me interested and stops me getting bored).  Since I needed to get back and do some work as I have been pretty slack lately, but not in the mood for wood working, I headed back to the stern to work on the ships lantern again.
 
 
I had previously finished the lantern and was pretty happy with it but it is very top heavy and teeters on the end of a 1mm brass rod support, which due to me drilling the hole in the stern a bit oversize it was going to be vulnerable to the slightest knock.

 
 
From looking through the AOTS I knew it had side supports which triangulates the whole lantern making it very secure so decided to try this, plus it meant doing some more soldering which I enjoy.  After deciding the position of the support legs and temporary placing the lantern in the stern I took some measurements and then cut out a small 11mm x 8mm card template to bend the support legs to.

 
 
After bending to the triangular shape and bending the ends straight for fitting into the stern holes I filed a small groove in the point to accept the 1mm vertical upright.  I did want to make the side support legs from 0.7mm rod so there was a noticeable difference in the diameters but only had 0.8mm which doesn’t have the same effect.

 
 
To solder together I drilled a couple of holes in some MDF and stuck the legs into and then taped the vertical support in place.  I applied some silver solder paste with a needle to the join which can just be seen in the photo, but in retrospect I could have used a bit more.

 
 
Soldered joint complete and after trial fitting and tweeking the fit I dropped it in to hydrochloric acid for a soak and then into the blackening solution.

 
 
Whilst the support was blackening I decided to make a sort of escutcheon plate to tidy up the area where the stand enters the stern and to hide my slightly oversize hole.  I used the black cartridge paper (this stuff is great and have used it throughout the build) and using a 3mm and 1mm hollow punch made the escutcheon plate.  I just had to remember to slip it on the support BEFORE gluing the lantern to the hull.

 
 
After a final trial fit I glued the lantern in place and then the whole assembly to the three holes drilled in the stern.  I slipped the escutcheon plate down to the hull and used wip-on poly applied with a little paint brush to fix the plate in place and job done.


 
 
Cheers
Slog

Hello, I have finished assembling of cant frames.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

Erecting cant frames